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So my 99 RS passed inspection  It's also only running on 3 cylinders at idle.  The techs there (including my son) tell me that it needs a new engine. It's a N/A SOHC EJ25, and supposedly any other EJ25 SOHC from that time frame will swap in as long as I use the current intake manifold. Anyone know up to what year a donor car will work?
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Oct 10, 2012 21:23
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sanchez posted:I'd say 18-21mpg if you're beating on it a fair bit with not much highway travel. According to the display on my dash, I average about 17.8. I have a daily commute of 40 miles RT which is about 3/4 highway (at 80mph). I think it's trending upward since I haven't had the mt bikes on the roof for a few days, and I'm sure that puts a hit on efficiency. Just out of curiosity, is there an accessport map aimed at improving fuel efficiency over performance? I realize this is probably the opposite of what it's typically used for.
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Oct 10, 2012 22:29
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daslog posted:So my 99 RS passed inspection I just went through the same thing and I think any SOHC 2.5 will fit up to 2004. The one that's in my 99 Forester right now came out of a 02 Impreza Outback. All the Foresters are 2.5 and I think both the Legacy Outback and Impreza Outbacks are. Oh yea, I think you are in NH or something so you should check Sams Pull-A-Part in MA. I got mine for $180 and $50 for a 30 day warranty. Only problem is that you have to get lucky and find a EJ25 there and then pull it out yourself. shy boy from chess club fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Oct 10, 2012 |
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Oct 10, 2012 22:30
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Hillridge posted:According to the display on my dash, I average about 17.8. I have a daily commute of 40 miles RT which is about 3/4 highway (at 80mph). I think it's trending upward since I haven't had the mt bikes on the roof for a few days, and I'm sure that puts a hit on efficiency. For reference, I get 23-25 avg MPG displayed on the dash in a LGT commuting 60 miles a day RT. 90% highway, but 6-10 miles is often stop and go, and 33 miles is winding through hills (40-60 mph), going up and down ~1800 feet each way. If the windy section wasn't full of slow drivers during commute hours, I'd probably average around 22-23.
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Oct 10, 2012 23:14
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daslog posted:So my 99 RS passed inspection The engine in your '99 is an EJ253, which is the same as the EJ251 except yours uses a MAF sensor which is why you keep the intake manifold. According to Wikipedia, you could use: EJ253 Impreza 99 Forester 99 EJ251 Impreza 2.5RS, 2.5TS 00-04 Impreza Outback Sport 02-04 Forester 00-04 Legacy 00-04 Outback 00-04
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Oct 10, 2012 23:49
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My car is alive, and intake scum free. Teardown of the engine showed it to be in (amazingly) beautiful condition - no ringlands broken, no issues of any sort - only a tiny bit of piston wall scouring after 60k miles. Our conclusion is that positively MASSIVE amounts of oil from the bad turbo mixing with loads of water from the E85 (and of course the headgasket going bad in the last few weeks) led to the gunk in the intake. My E85, when they drained it, was literally a foggy light brown color - we don't know what the hell is going on with that pump, but it is cursed and should never be used by anyone (the Valero on Scottsdale Road and Mckellips, for any Phoenix residents). More water content than they've ever seen, and what appears to be some sort of rust-colored gunk - it was positively disgusting, and required a run around the block to clear out the injectors with 91. I've no clue what the hell is going on at that station, but I'm kinda pissed that Valero is selling such trash fuel. It literally left strange white deposits when allowed to dry, as well. Anyhow, new 91 octane tune (very low boost, very conservative for motor longevity at this point - only 18.7 psi) yields 350/360 on the mustang dyno. New Exedy heavy duty clutch and cusco motor/trans mounts (since labor was nonexistent on those with the engine out) - the car is now set for some pretty silly fun, and will of course be even better once we get it back for water injection or E85.
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Oct 11, 2012 01:29
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Not Subaru specific I suppose but can you explain to me why you decided to run E85 in your car? I ask without a hint of sarcasm because from what little I know it gives worse MPG while being more expensive.
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Oct 11, 2012 01:43
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Lots more power and pretty much no knock ever. The tuning results are pretty similar to c16 leaded race fuel, which is $16-18/gallon.
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Oct 11, 2012 02:09
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Ah very cool I didn't know that (obviously I don't do any racing stuff). Thanks! 
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Oct 11, 2012 02:12
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Does anyone have experience with the Clutch Masters fx300 with the "Hi-Rev" pressure plate? Is it worth the few extra dollars over the HD for a daily driver?
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Oct 11, 2012 02:17
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Totally TWISTED posted:Ah very cool I didn't know that (obviously I don't do any racing stuff). Thanks! A little goggleing turned up this http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-liter-litre-factory-motor/202239-everything-you-need-know-about-e85.html
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Oct 11, 2012 02:48
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Totally TWISTED posted:Ah very cool I didn't know that (obviously I don't do any racing stuff). Thanks! It's a great, cheap replacement for racing fuels like Jamal said, if you have high quality sources (i.e. you live in the midwest). If you have a turbocharged car, you'll be able to get a lot of power, and actually have better longevity on your motor than with plain 91 or 93 octane if you're stressing the motor. That said, it's a terrible fuel for constant use (which is what I was doing after I moved to a place with no 93 octane) - it leaves a lot of deposits, has poor lubricity compared to regular gasoline, and can do things like horribly clog your injectors. If you do have a lot of blowby or oil for some reason, constantly running bad E85 (E85 with lots of water or other material in it) can be catastrophic, as you can see from the picture I posted of my caked over intake. vvv The shop I took it to had a great recommendation, which is to use the same pumps as the cab drivers use. There's a AAA cab pump around here that uses 75-80% minimum year round, and they rarely have water contamination. The E85 that came out my tank was at around 10% H2O. I'm guessing now that the brown material was rust from the tank or parts of the pump mechanism due to all that water. BobTheFerret fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Oct 11, 2012 |
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Oct 11, 2012 02:48
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If you are using e85, it's a good idea to check the actual percentage with a kit, especially if you are making a lot of power. It also sounds like the occasional tank of pump gas isn't a bad idea either.
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Oct 11, 2012 03:34
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jamal posted:If you are using e85, it's a good idea to check the actual percentage with a kit, especially if you are making a lot of power. It also sounds like the occasional tank of pump gas isn't a bad idea either. 85 is much, much more likely to get water contaminated, so you really want to stick to stations that maintain their tanks and go through a lot of e85. This can be a bigger issue out west where 85 is still pretty new. You have station owners that don't know what the hell, distributors that don't know poo poo, and lower volumes due to both a lack of flex fuel cars and lack of owner awareness.
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Oct 11, 2012 04:02
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BobTheFerret posted:vvv The shop I took it to had a great recommendation, which is to use the same pumps as the cab drivers use. There's a AAA cab pump around here that uses 75-80% minimum year round, and they rarely have water contamination. The E85 that came out my tank was at around 10% H2O. I'm guessing now that the brown material was rust from the tank or parts of the pump mechanism due to all that water. I might be tempted to alert the station owner of this. And if they blow you off, I would be even more tempted to report their station to the EPA as if water is getting in, fuel is getting out. If your state's environmental laws are anything like California's (LOL) they will take leaking underground fuel tanks very very seriously.
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Oct 11, 2012 07:41
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If you are doing a wheel bearing or inner cv boot and you strip the thread in the knuckle, do not replace the bolt with a longer one and put a nut at the end. It will loosen up and crack the knuckle. I won't name the offender as they are paying for it, but that could have been bad.
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Oct 11, 2012 20:35
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Frankenstein posted:I just purchased a 2008 Impreza WRX with 89,000 miles. I'm very regimented with my vehicle maintenance and have already viewed the owner's manual as well as the OP regarding scheduled maintenance. The dealer is going to change the coolant as well as the transmission and differential fluid as part of the purchase. This is my first Subaru and I'm interested in any advice regarding the vehicle and any trouble spots to watch for. Check the service records and make sure the oil line tsb service was performed, other than that, welcome to the club.
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Oct 11, 2012 22:28
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Is there an aftermarket beefy oil pickup that works with the stock EJ205 (2002) oil pan? Both Killer B's and Covert Performance requires an EJ25 pan, or a Killer B pan. I'd rather not take the chance on the stock one on the motor I'm swapping in, which has 200,000 KM already. Edit: Whoops, apparently Killer B has one! http://www.killerbmotorsport.com/index_files/EJ20UltimatePickup.htm
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Oct 12, 2012 03:48
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Yeah, I think it's special order but they make one. The sti pan is a worthwhile upgrade though.
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Oct 12, 2012 04:09
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I know with the Ecotec LSJ's in Cobalt SS's/Saturn IRL's you have to use 85lb injectors and get tuned to run E85, and you can't switch back and forth either. Most of the LSJ Deltabros I know swear by it and it does significantly increase power thanks to the 105-octane fuel rating it technically has, all at $3.50/gal
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Oct 12, 2012 07:09
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The 257 pan is only $110 or something. Worth it for better baffling, much better than the 205, it has funny places for the oil to hang up. Im still not sure what to blame my failure on, it wasn't the pickup. Maybe bad baffling?
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Oct 12, 2012 07:09
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McSpatula posted:Check the service records and make sure the oil line tsb service was performed, other than that, welcome to the club. Thank you for the information. I checked and recall WVF16 has been performed, which is related to the turbo oil line cracking; is this the service you're referring to? I'm also finding information regarding a small filter in the turbo oil line that can clog and should be removed apparently; any advice on that? I appreciate your assistance. So far, I'm thoroughly enjoying the vehicle.
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Oct 12, 2012 14:23
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blindjoe posted:The 257 pan is only $110 or something. Worth it for better baffling, much better than the 205, it has funny places for the oil to hang up. Im still not sure what to blame my failure on, it wasn't the pickup. Maybe bad baffling?
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Oct 12, 2012 14:24
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If I take my 2.0 WRX motor and put in a 2.2 stroker kit, do I need to bring it to a tuner?
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Oct 12, 2012 16:10
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Has anyone ever ordered an STi from a dealership? I'm thinking of putting in an order for a 2013 STi Hatch and was wondering if anyone knows what kind of pricing compared to MSRP and Invoice I should be looking out for?
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Oct 12, 2012 17:12
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Fudgesicko posted:Has anyone ever ordered an STi from a dealership? I'm thinking of putting in an order for a 2013 STi Hatch and was wondering if anyone knows what kind of pricing compared to MSRP and Invoice I should be looking out for? No personal experience but I found this to be a great website when I was shopping for my Impreza. http://www.truecar.com/prices-new/subaru/impreza-wagon-wrx-pricing/2013/429817D7/
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Oct 12, 2012 17:17
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Fudgesicko posted:Has anyone ever ordered an STi from a dealership? I'm thinking of putting in an order for a 2013 STi Hatch and was wondering if anyone knows what kind of pricing compared to MSRP and Invoice I should be looking out for? Yeah, I would just use the truecar guidelines to get a feel for what people are paying. Ordering it shouldn't make a lick of difference in the pricing. Just negotiate it like you would if it was sitting on the lot.
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Oct 12, 2012 17:25
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Thanks for the website, definitely going to use it when I start contacting dealer's later today. I've been looking up online inventories for the dealerships around me, and out of 5, only 2 have STi's in stock, they are all priced $2k above the MSRP. I didn't realize these cars were that rare to find on lot.
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Oct 12, 2012 17:32
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Fudgesicko posted:Thanks for the website, definitely going to use it when I start contacting dealer's later today. I've been looking up online inventories for the dealerships around me, and out of 5, only 2 have STi's in stock, they are all priced $2k above the MSRP. I didn't realize these cars were that rare to find on lot. Yeah they're REALLY hard to find in the midwest. I set my search for a 500mil radius and the closest 2011-2013 STi was in Illinois somewhere, I live in Detroit 
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Oct 12, 2012 17:34
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Fudgesicko posted:Thanks for the website, definitely going to use it when I start contacting dealer's later today. I've been looking up online inventories for the dealerships around me, and out of 5, only 2 have STi's in stock, they are all priced $2k above the MSRP. I didn't realize these cars were that rare to find on lot. I flew to Chicago and had the dealer pick me up at the airport and then drove 500+ miles home in my new Impreza. Expanding your search radius can yield a deal good enough worth paying/flying for. I think I looked at..well have a quote from me earlier in this thread. quote:After searching through probably 40 dealer websites for a 2012 Impreza 2.0i 5dr Manual (hopefully in Obsidian Black Pearl), I found the one. A short flight and then a ~550 mile drive later I will be home with this car on Saturday. pro-searching tip: Use the Subaru website and select major cities as your location and then search near those cities. Any major city will have pretty cheap plane tickets to it and especially if you are buying a STI they will come pick you up to make the sale.
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Oct 12, 2012 18:19
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Fudgesicko posted:Has anyone ever ordered an STi from a dealership? I'm thinking of putting in an order for a 2013 STi Hatch and was wondering if anyone knows what kind of pricing compared to MSRP and Invoice I should be looking out for? I ordered my 2013 STi sedan in WRB for $32,800. I think it was 1 or 2% below invoice. Living one mile from the third largest Subaru dealer in the United States has its perks.
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Oct 12, 2012 19:25
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Totally TWISTED posted:I flew to Chicago and had the dealer pick me up at the airport and then drove 500+ miles home in my new Impreza. Expanding your search radius can yield a deal good enough worth paying/flying for. I think I looked at..well have a quote from me earlier in this thread. I think I know what dealership you're talking about, I've been entertaining this idea, but I rather find one near my home area, Northern Virginia. kylej posted:I ordered my 2013 STi sedan in WRB for $32,800. I think it was 1 or 2% below invoice. Living one mile from the third largest Subaru dealer in the United States has its perks. Is that just for the base model with no options? After talking to a few dealerships, I speced one out, 2013 STi Hatch DGM with Navi, Cross bars, and Popular Package 1. I used Carsdirect to check invoice and msrp pricing and also this site to configure the car. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/wrxsti/wrxsti2013.html So I got a quote from a dealer nearby, $36,183 with tax and "doc fee" it comes out to $38k even. The "doc fee" is $500 at this dealership, which is insanely high. This is the best deal I've been able to get so far, all the other dealers are quoting $37K-$37.5K before TTL. I've been doing a lot of research on the pricing, and it seems this is the best for this area. Anyone have any insight on what I should be aiming for? These WRX/STi forum's are listing $500-$1500 below invoice, I have yet to see anything approach $1000 off in my area. Fudgesicko fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Oct 12, 2012 |
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Oct 12, 2012 19:45
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Tusen Takk posted:, I live in Detroit Sorry to hear that
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Oct 12, 2012 19:46
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Fudgesicko posted:I think I know what dealership you're talking about, I've been entertaining this idea, but I rather find one near my home area, Northern Virginia. That being said it's really freakin hard to have that much money in cash. Owen Wilsons Nose posted:Sorry to hear that
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Oct 12, 2012 19:49
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Tusen Takk posted:I live in Detroit So why don't you buy like 40 houses with that $20,000 and become a slumlord to feed your vehicular schizophrenia?
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Oct 12, 2012 19:52
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Tusen Takk posted:I've found that most dealerships are more willing to negotiate when you come in with $30,000 in cold hard cash. We bought a $40,000 Cadillac for $32,000 cash a few years ago and they sploodged all over the floor and offered to return the favour when we suggested it. Yeah, I don't have that much cash in savings to drop all at once. That and it seem the DC area dealerships are pricing these things real high. The price for the STi I spec is $38.8K MSRP with an invoice of $36.45K, so an out-the-door price of $38K seems pretty appealing to me right now.
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Oct 12, 2012 19:54
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Tusen Takk posted:I've found that most dealerships are more willing to negotiate when you come in with $30,000 in cold hard cash. We bought a $40,000 Cadillac for $32,000 cash a few years ago and they sploodged all over the floor and offered to return the favour when we suggested it.
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Oct 12, 2012 19:55
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Fudgesicko posted:I think I know what dealership you're talking about, I've been entertaining this idea, but I rather find one near my home area, Northern Virginia. I'm actually going through the same thing right now. (And did the same with my wife's new 4Runner). You'd think I'd be a pro by now. I'm glad that some people are able to get awesome deals (like kylej, seriously, that's awesome dude) but I've never been able to get a dealer to budge all that much. I was pretty proud of myself for getting them to give her an extra $500 for her trade-in and throw in a remote start. I'm sure if you did as Tusen did and walked in with a briefcase full of cash it would be a little easier to finagle a deal, but having 30 large in cash is a little difficult for most people.
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Oct 12, 2012 20:01
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Viggen posted:So why don't you buy like 40 houses with that $20,000 and become a slumlord to feed your vehicular schizophrenia? That was my parents money and also before the recession haha. If I won the lotto I would buy half if Detroit for sure though. Totally TWISTED posted:Would you not obtain this same benefit by using non-dealer financing? i.e. a check from [YOUR LOCAL BANK] or [YOUR FINANCIAL INSTITUTION]? From what I understand cash/check/cashier's check are all the same to a dealership. I have no idea, I just know there was a bucket of spludge all over the dealers desk when we left and I'm sure he and his manager did a dance like the robot and manage in the one futurama episode
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Oct 12, 2012 20:01
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My dealership didn't even know until the day I picked up my car whether I was financing it or not. If you are in the DC area, look at Pittsburgh for cars. It's only 250 miles away and we have Subaru dealerships out the rear end. I know the one dealership that I bought mine (Day-Apollo in Moon) told me I could order whatever the hell I wanted for $100 over invoice. That's not the BEST BEST deal in the world, but it was close enough to be good for me. The fact that I was able to do all price negotiations over email was a plus as other dealers wanted me to come in before they talked numbers. I bought my '11 when they were in high demand. They were just barely hitting dealers and all the capacity was sold. No markup though. When I was doing my emailing around, I kept it simple. I listed what I wanted with the appropriate option codes. I told them "I know this configured car costs $x at MSRP and $y at invoice. What is your price? I will order if I need to." bull3964 fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Oct 12, 2012 |
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Oct 12, 2012 20:11
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