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Film is perfectly affordable in Australia if you shop from ebay and use a post forwarding company for oders from B&H/Freestyle. I mean poo poo I've got a packed freezer atm and it didn't cost me much at all.
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# ? Oct 13, 2012 03:37 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 08:33 |
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My non resident Californian girlfriend is still skeptical that her $8 a week private health insurance is really providing full coverage, then again, cheap Tri-X...
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# ? Oct 13, 2012 03:57 |
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Will 35mm Plus-X stand up to being pushed to 1600, or will it end up unusable? Grain is not an obstacle.
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# ? Oct 14, 2012 04:03 |
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atomicthumbs posted:Will 35mm Plus-X stand up to being pushed to 1600, or will it end up unusable? Grain is not an obstacle. dooooo itttttt
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# ? Oct 14, 2012 05:25 |
atomicthumbs posted:Will 35mm Plus-X stand up to being pushed to 1600, or will it end up unusable? Grain is not an obstacle. I did exactly that with the 120 version (it was even a year or two out of date) some time last year. I've never really tried printing it, but it certainly did produce an image. Something like 1 hour in Tetenal Ultrafin Liquid 1+10.
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# ? Oct 14, 2012 10:55 |
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Tri-X is €3.69 ($4.70) a roll from maco in quantities of 10 or more. Agfa APX100 is €2.50 ($3.20) a roll in quantities of 10 or more. After i hosed up my last roll of Rollei trying to get it on the reel i see no reason to mess around with inferior brands of film anymore. Difference between a known brand like Kodak or Ilford or the "B" brands Rollei/Foma/Kentmere/Lucky is like €1-2 a roll.
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# ? Oct 14, 2012 11:52 |
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NihilismNow posted:After i hosed up my last roll of Rollei trying to get it on the reel i see no reason to mess around with inferior brands of film anymore. Difference between a known brand like Kodak or Ilford or the "B" brands Rollei/Foma/Kentmere/Lucky is like €1-2 a roll. I'm trying to judge whether you meant to say you decided to stop using budget film because you hosed up loading a reel or your decision just happened to coincide with that because I'm not sure what the make of film has to do with loadability. I've used bargain basement films and pro-label films and they all loaded the same.
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# ? Oct 14, 2012 20:23 |
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Martytoof posted:I'm trying to judge whether you meant to say you decided to stop using budget film because you hosed up loading a reel or your decision just happened to coincide with that because I'm not sure what the make of film has to do with loadability. I've used bargain basement films and pro-label films and they all loaded the same. I already clarified this on IRC but in this case Rollei specifically is harder to load because they use a different thinner film base. In general i have just decided that i don't need to save 3-5 cents per picture. With the time i invest in taking the photo's i feel it makes sense to go for the best (even if my photo's are crap). If you take a absolute shitload of pictures you may feel differently.
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# ? Oct 14, 2012 20:33 |
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I don't take a lot of photos, but I still consider myself firmly in the "amateur" stage, and I'm dipping my toes into sunny/16. Most of what I shoot are snapshots with (what I like to consider) a base level of thought put into them. I'm not terribly worried about quality right now, but consistency in my technique. That said, AP400 is great quality and a great price so it's not much of a compromise
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# ? Oct 14, 2012 22:02 |
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The only roll of film I've ever hosed up loading was a roll of 35mm Kodachrome, so go figure. Anyway. Kodak Aerochrome
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# ? Oct 14, 2012 22:03 |
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Holy gently caress How much did you pay for the roll?
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# ? Oct 14, 2012 22:13 |
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My loot from this morning's fair: All of them are expired, oldest is from 2002 and the freshest one is from 2010 (the Tri-X I think) 5x Tri-X Pan 320 --> no idea what to expect 4x Fuji Reala 100 --> looking forward to shooting this 5x Fuji Velvia 50 1x Fuji Velvia 100 2x Ilford Delta 3200 --> 3200 sounds awesome! All for $45 CAD
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# ? Oct 14, 2012 22:21 |
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Infrared photography with Alejandro Jodorowsky.
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# ? Oct 14, 2012 22:40 |
Santa is strapped posted:2x Ilford Delta 3200 --> 3200 sounds awesome! Will likely have insane base fog if it hasn't been stored properly. If it's more than 2-3 years out of date I'd suggest shooting it at 1000 or 1600 and develop it 1 or 2 stops above that, depending on age.
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# ? Oct 14, 2012 22:50 |
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Spedman posted:Kodak Aerochrome Kodak.com posted:False-color reversal film, high dimensional stability for vegetation surveys, camouflage detection and earth resources. (emphasis added) OK, I have added this to the top of my photographic wishlist. When I shoot it, I'm sure I'll be hearing music & sound effects from Predator in my head all drat day. Santa is strapped posted:My loot from this morning's fair:
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# ? Oct 14, 2012 23:23 |
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Quantum of Phallus posted:Holy gently caress http://www.tarquinius.de By the looks of things he only has a few rolls left, I only bought one as a curiosity after seeing it in an issue of the British Journal of Photography. I think he only wants $10 a roll plus shipping so its not too bad. aliencowboy posted:Infrared photography with Alejandro Jodorowsky. I still have El Topo sitting on a HD waiting to be watched, I have a feeling I'm not going to be able to get anyone to watch it with me.
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# ? Oct 14, 2012 23:31 |
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nielsm posted:Will likely have insane base fog if it hasn't been stored properly. If it's more than 2-3 years out of date I'd suggest shooting it at 1000 or 1600 and develop it 1 or 2 stops above that, depending on age. I have no idea how it was stored, but I doubt it it was "proper". I'll test with one roll, see how it turns out! I'll shoot half a stop under and half normal speed, I'm just curious. It expired in 2002. ExecuDork posted:Reala is good stuff, I quite like it myself. Also I hate you for getting that haul for that price. Yea I searched on Flickr for Reala tags, looks good! I'm sure there must be some kind of fair thing where people sell expired film. This is to compensate for me getting a roll of Fuji Pro 400H for $11 CAD
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# ? Oct 15, 2012 02:30 |
Santa is strapped posted:I have no idea how it was stored, but I doubt it it was "proper". I'll test with one roll, see how it turns out! I'll shoot half a stop under and half normal speed, I'm just curious. It expired in 2002. 2002 sounds much like the expired Delta 3200 I had at a point. The base fog was so thick the negatives looked completely black when not held up to a strong light.
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# ? Oct 15, 2012 10:50 |
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I recently got a Canon AE1 and plan to start shooting on that as my first camera. Being that it runs 35mm I was wondering what a good film(s) would be for shooting still cars / landscapes / sky. Is there a quality all purpose file I can use or will I be using different rolls for each?
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# ? Oct 15, 2012 15:33 |
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Baram posted:I recently got a Canon AE1 and plan to start shooting on that as my first camera. Being that it runs 35mm I was wondering what a good film(s) would be for shooting still cars / landscapes / sky. Is there a quality all purpose file I can use or will I be using different rolls for each? Portra 400.
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# ? Oct 15, 2012 16:28 |
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It's not a great film but Fuji C200 is great for all purpose snapshots and it renders greens really well.Spedman posted:http://www.tarquinius.de He's looking for $40 a roll now Quantum of Phallus fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Oct 15, 2012 |
# ? Oct 15, 2012 19:59 |
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Quantum of Phallus posted:He's looking for $40 a roll now Try: http://believeinfilm.com/category/kodak-aerochrome Have to agree on Portra 400, you can shoot it from 200 to about 1600 and not have to push/pull process (from what I've seen). And it looks amazing.
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# ? Oct 15, 2012 21:30 |
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Baram posted:I recently got a Canon AE1 and plan to start shooting on that as my first camera. Being that it runs 35mm I was wondering what a good film(s) would be for shooting still cars / landscapes / sky. Is there a quality all purpose file I can use or will I be using different rolls for each? Portra is indeed excellent. It can also be a bit on the pricy side. Given all three of your proposed subjects are outdoors, you probably won't need 400-iso and could do well with 100. A while ago there was a discussion in here about the apparent lack of use for 200-iso film - the real use of it is it is usually very cheap, because only basic consumer film was made at 200-iso (I could be wrong about that, but I've only really seen consumer-grade film in 200). More questions: colour or black-and-white? If B&W, develop it yourself. If colour, decide on C-41 (colour negative) vs. E-6 (slide film, also called "colour reversal"). C-41 is cheaper to get developed, some E-6 films give some really excellent colours (e.g. the Fuji Reala we've been discussing, or Velvia) but can be a horrible pain to get developed. My advice: get some different films, shoot what you want to shoot, look at your pictures and decide what you enjoy the most. Just stay away from the really weird stuff (Lomo, Rollei Redbird, anything that expired more than 10 years ago, etc.) until you figure it out.
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# ? Oct 16, 2012 01:10 |
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I accidentally grabbed a film camera on my way to comic con on Friday, my loss is your gain! If anyone could tell me what the hell happened here, I'd appreciate it. All shot on my minolta x700 using 200 iso colorchrome... if anyone wants to see the larger versions I put them in a flickr set.
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# ? Oct 17, 2012 00:22 |
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change my name posted:
First frame on the roll; that fuzzy bit is the felt that keeps the canister light tight, the bright part is the leader that was sticking out. If it wasn't the first/last frame, then it was a stuck shutter.
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# ? Oct 17, 2012 00:57 |
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Yeah that was actually like the 13th shot... and I do remember that the film advance lever had stuck. Thanks, that was bugging the hell out of me.
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# ? Oct 17, 2012 01:01 |
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Tri-X 400 pushed to 1600. I'm usually not a fan of shooting B/W, but I really dig the grain.
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# ? Oct 17, 2012 01:21 |
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I'm going to try pushing some hp5+ this week. 1600? 3200? 6400? how far will I go!
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# ? Oct 17, 2012 04:47 |
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aliencowboy posted:Tri-X 400 pushed to 1600. I'm usually not a fan of shooting B/W, but I really dig the grain. woah, this looks really good.
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# ? Oct 17, 2012 04:52 |
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Yeah, no joke. Get rid of the dust and I'd say it's amazing.
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# ? Oct 17, 2012 07:01 |
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Sometimes I think dust can add to the image. I had cloned it out, but preferred it in.
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# ? Oct 17, 2012 12:54 |
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Yeah, gently caress the haters, dust can add some really interesting ambience to the photo.
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# ? Oct 17, 2012 14:25 |
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Mr. Despair posted:I'm going to try pushing some hp5+ this week. 1600? 3200? 6400? how far will I go! I have successfully done 6400 before.
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# ? Oct 17, 2012 16:15 |
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Sorry for the photo of a photo but I am getting back into film after picking up an old SLR at the thrift store for $15. Every single photo on the test roll I ran through it has this same line in the same spot. I see in change my names post something similar might be a stuck shutter, but this has spots on both sides of the line where it is happening. The photo lab took pity on me and didn't charge for processing, but I'd like to figure out what's causing it before I waste another roll. It happened with two different lenses too. That would narrow it down to the body itself?
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# ? Oct 17, 2012 18:45 |
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Thumposaurus posted:Sorry for the photo of a photo but I am getting back into film after picking up an old SLR at the thrift store for $15. Bad light seal? e. buy a Pentax ME Super for the cost of a light seal kit.
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# ? Oct 17, 2012 18:55 |
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Light leak, in the body. Probably around the edge of the back, when you open it (to load / unload film) can you see damage to the seal? Especially at the top or bottom, that looks like light coming in from either (both) long edges where there's something, like chewed-up light seal foam, that's opened a gap.
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# ? Oct 17, 2012 18:59 |
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Yeah the foam looks pretty dried up, not so springy anymore. I guess I'll see if I can get some foam and try and replace it, failing that join the herd and look on ebay for a ME Super.
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# ? Oct 17, 2012 19:15 |
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If you can get some (thick) yarn you can also use that as a stopgap measure to fill the gap until you can find some proper light seal material. Just dig out the old crusty poo poo and string the yarn in there as neatly as you can. You can also skip digging out the old material if your yarn isn't thick enough to seal on its own.
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# ? Oct 17, 2012 19:17 |
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If you want to go full ghetto, get some thick gaffer tape and seal up the section with the shirty foam after you've loaded the next roll.
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# ? Oct 17, 2012 21:06 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 08:33 |
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The full Holga experience.
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# ? Oct 17, 2012 22:00 |