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mafoose posted:Can't you just remove the caliper and leave it on the car? The caliper can't be taken off without opening the brake system, either-the soft brake lines connect the hard lines on the body and the hard lines on the strut tube that feed the caliper. It's a dumb design, but it's really only an issue if the gland nut is stuck-if it comes loose easily, you can just take the bracket for the lines loose and tilt the strut out of the wheel well.
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Oct 9, 2012 04:44
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netwerk23 posted:Does it come with a set of Pegs too? Yes, 17s with brand new all seasons. The nebulas are 18s with fairly new summer tires. Frankly I'd prefer winters on the Pegs but I'll stick with the all seasons for now. I wasn't a fan of the nebulas when I first saw them in a photo but they look great in person.
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Oct 9, 2012 15:50
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zundfolge posted:The greenbook for the front suspension is at this link. Oh yeah, that's going to a shop. I can see a few steps where I'm gonna get stuck. In other car bullshit news, there is a bunch of water on the floor of the driver's side of my 850. My first thought was my heater core, but I replaced that about a year ago and I'm not seeing any leaks coming from that. I lifted up my carpet as much as I could to vacuum it out, but it just kept coming from under that foam rubber lining. I guess I'm going to have to rip out the carpet  The only guess I have is that the water came from when my heater core was leaking last year. I didn't do such a great job keeping coolant off the floor when replacing it. I would assume that after a year, it would be dry. It also doesn't smell or feel like antifreeze.
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Oct 11, 2012 20:03
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Often it's something to do with the sunroof drains. Google that to see how to check/clear them out.
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Oct 11, 2012 21:23
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LloydDobler posted:Often it's something to do with the sunroof drains. Google that to see how to check/clear them out. From what I'm reading, that seems to be the likely culprit. I'll check it out. Thank you so much.
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Oct 11, 2012 21:40
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I picked up a '98 XC today. The CL ad was rather terse, but the interior looked great in the pics and the body looked straight enough, so I figured I'd check it out. It has a few cosmetic issues and the passenger's front door doesn't open from the inside, but the interior is one of the nicest I've seen in a 70-series (despite having 208K on the clock), the timing belt was done at 191K, all the power accessories work and the AC blows cold, and the maintenance book has continuous dealer stamps from 5K to 175K. I feel like I made out OK at $2500. 
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Oct 12, 2012 03:08
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zundfolge posted:The caliper can't be taken off without opening the brake system, either-the soft brake lines connect the hard lines on the body and the hard lines on the strut tube that feed the caliper. It's a dumb design, but it's really only an issue if the gland nut is stuck-if it comes loose easily, you can just take the bracket for the lines loose and tilt the strut out of the wheel well. I learned this on Z cars. Take them apart once, and when the line is not on the tube mount anymore, cut a slit in it so you can bend the tab to slide the hard lines in and out when needed.
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Oct 12, 2012 03:53
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astrollinthepork posted:From what I'm reading, that seems to be the likely culprit. I'll check it out. Thank you so much. Actually before you do that look at your cowl drains, it's easier to check. The plastic grille/cover comes off and there's 2 more inside as well.
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Oct 12, 2012 05:21
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Hnngh
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Oct 14, 2012 21:10
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My neighbor for 10 years was a crazy old hippy woman who had 5 or 6 Volvos scattered around the yard, mostly as parts cars for her old 245. One however was a 242 Turbo that had been her sons car before something broke and it got parked. I kick myself every time I remember that I could have bought it from her for pennies. They've all been hauled off for scrap now. 
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Oct 14, 2012 21:18
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Anyone have any advice about/previous experience with replacing the door latch cable in a '98 V70? The passenger front door in the XC I just bought doesn't open from the inside (the outside handle works fine) and I've read that a plastic clip on said cable often breaks, causing the issue. Is it the kind of thing that should be easy to figure out once I get the panel off?
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Oct 15, 2012 02:54
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Who has $600k? http://bringatrailer.com/2012/10/14/swedish-treasure-portland-volvo-shop-warehouse-and-amazon/ I will come over and build a 240 from spares.
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Oct 15, 2012 04:35
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I've been reading the thread after considering getting a Volvo for a second car and I came across this, and I'd like to know if it's even worth considering. 2003 Volvo v70 AWD t5 for 4300usd with 152k miles. I'm in Texas so rust isn't a thing, but AC absolutely is. It's got good tires, no real body damage aside from a random scratch here and there. The interior is solid and everything inside, electronically, works. I haven't driven it yet because the seller was pretty adamant about me being serious about buying before a test drive. I was upfront with him about me just looking for the moment but he told me where he'd be and I met him out and about for a look-over. I want this car, but I don't know if AWD is an additional pain in the rear end or if I'm looking at certain expensive and unavoidable repairs. I'm not afraid of doing most of my own work as long as it's not electrical stuff. What should I look for?
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Oct 15, 2012 22:13
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If the awd system fails you either face an expensive repair or enjoy your new fwd t5 
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Oct 15, 2012 22:25
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Had someone hit me and total my truck, resulting in some insurance money. A place I worked for had a 98 V70 with 128k they scored from the auction out front for $1800, let it go to me for $1000. Replaced the brake pads, did an oil change and figured it would be good enough to get around town for now. Drove it from my parents in Boston to my new place in Virginia Beach last week (530 miles) without a single problem, and now I can't see myself getting rid of it. A mix of New England winters and the previous owner backing and driving into everything in their path hasn't done the body the greatest justice. I think I'm going to clean it up, maybe even a new coat of paint. I'm hooked, gently caress. 
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Oct 16, 2012 08:29
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Cakefool posted:If the awd system fails you either face an expensive repair or enjoy your new fwd t5 Yeah, I'm kinda good with that, but it's major suspension or drivetrain problems that I'm trying to avoid. Losing AWD just means I'd have to park it and drive my truck instead while I collect replacement parts. I'm hoping someone has some advice along the lines of "The 03 had a terrible XXX." or "Make sure YYY has been replaced."
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Oct 16, 2012 16:59
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The 5-cylinder whiteblocks are pretty bulletproof engines; if you keep the oil changed every 5K miles, do the timing belt on time, and keep the cooling system in good repair, you shouldn't have many mechanical problems-I will say that they do seem to have an appetite for coil packs, though. The automatic transmission programming on early P2 cars was pretty idiotic; combined with the "lifetime" fluid interval they recommended for the transmission, a lot of them died an early death. If it exhibits any hard shifts or other weirdness, I'd walk away. The main failure point in the AWD system is the driveshaft, which manifests itself as a low-speed rumble while turning or a hum at speed; it's easy to replace, though, and you can get a rebuilt one from Colorado Driveshaft for ~$400. Make sure the tires are worn evenly and the same size all around, and that you don't hear any weird noises from it. Suspension-wise, the strut mounts wear out pretty quickly, but IPD has an upgraded part that helps to alleviate that issue. Otherwise, there aren't any glaring flaws.
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Oct 16, 2012 17:21
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I took my "new" camera and "new" car (both probably produced around the same time) out for a drive. 244 by atomicthumbs, on Flickr 
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Oct 19, 2012 04:45
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zundfolge posted:Anyone have any advice about/previous experience with replacing the door latch cable in a '98 V70? The passenger front door in the XC I just bought doesn't open from the inside (the outside handle works fine) and I've read that a plastic clip on said cable often breaks, causing the issue. Is it the kind of thing that should be easy to figure out once I get the panel off? Yes, basically any way you can reattach it will work. Most people just zip tie it back into place as far as I know. The door panels come off super easy so it's not like a big job to go at it. One screw in the pull recess, pop the trim around the handle, a few push clips around the perimeter and it just lifts off. Take a peek.
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Oct 19, 2012 05:57
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Check out my Volvo. It is a 1982 242 turbo. I have a lot of plans for this car but currently i'm just trying to get it back to stock (except the 3" exhaust).
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Oct 19, 2012 18:27
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Nice. 240's look great in black - that one looks like the 2 door version of my '85. Those NA GL bumpers are kind of bad though. Find a set of the streamlined all black ones.
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Oct 19, 2012 19:26
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Ether Frenzy posted:Nice. 240's look great in black - that one looks like the 2 door version of my '85. Yea I hate those bumpers. Once I get the engine squared away im moving onto the body and suspension.
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Oct 19, 2012 22:11
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I've got Bilstein HD's in front, and KYB adjustables in the back and I'm pretty pleased with that combo, it's a huge improvement over stock. I'm not sure if this is still the recommended setup on Turbobricks/wherever, I felt like it was very close to "hilariously too much money" when I did it a couple years ago but I've been very pleased with the results regardless and haven't looked back once. Also, the rear anti-sway bar from IPD is probably the most amazing one-item improvement I've made on any car, ever.
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Oct 20, 2012 00:27
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Ether Frenzy posted:I've got Bilstein HD's in front, and KYB adjustables in the back and I'm pretty pleased with that combo, it's a huge improvement over stock. I'm not sure if this is still the recommended setup on Turbobricks/wherever, I felt like it was very close to "hilariously too much money" when I did it a couple years ago but I've been very pleased with the results regardless and haven't looked back once. Yea I plan on getting Bilstein's all the way around and probably cutting my springs a little. it definitely sits a little too high. Sways are definitely down the road, shits pretty expensive.
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Oct 20, 2012 01:16
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zundfolge posted:The main failure point in the AWD system is the driveshaft, which manifests itself as a low-speed rumble while turning or a hum at speed; it's easy to replace, though, and you can get a rebuilt one from Colorado Driveshaft for ~$400. Make sure the tires are worn evenly and the same size all around, and that you don't hear any weird noises from it. No, not really? The angle gear/bevel gear is the classic point of failure on older AWD Volvos. In the five years my cousin worked at a Volvo dealer, more than a third of the old viscous coupling AWDs they traded in had a busted angle gear. This fucker right here is what I'm talking about. 
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Oct 20, 2012 01:28
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Nidhg00670000 posted:No, not really? The angle gear/bevel gear is the classic point of failure on older AWD Volvos. In the five years my cousin worked at a Volvo dealer, more than a third of the old viscous coupling AWDs they traded in had a busted angle gear. I stand corrected-my research was mostly Google-based and anecdotal. v  vDon't you dare take those commando bumpers off that 242. 
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Oct 20, 2012 03:39
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zundfolge posted:Don't you dare take those commando bumpers off that 242. I want nice shave/flush with the body bumpers
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Oct 20, 2012 04:07
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atomicthumbs posted:I took my "new" camera and "new" car (both probably produced around the same time) out for a drive. Oh, hey, you like old Volvos and Kodak Portra too    My new car as of a couple of months ago. It has... issues.
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Oct 20, 2012 10:15
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scottscottscott posted:Check out my Volvo. I have no idea why, but I love how the badge is offset on older Volvo grilles.
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Oct 20, 2012 16:21
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Augmented Dickey posted:I have no idea why, but I love how the badge is offset on older Volvo grilles. I believe it is called "having good taste". I really like them too.
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Oct 20, 2012 17:45
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There is a 2000 Volvo v40 with the 1.9t at a used car dealer by my house. Are these decent cars? I've been looking for a new commuter. I'm gonna stop by and get a test drive tomorrow. Anything I ought to look for?
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Oct 22, 2012 01:32
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Listen to the turbo, check for oil leakage everywhere but especially around the turbo, and check the exhaust for oil smoke (blue). Hammer the poo poo out of it in the test drive, it can take it unless it's knackered to the point that you don't want it anyway. Accelerate hard up a couple steep hills and keep an eye on the mirror to watch for any exhaust colors. Make sure the turbo's been fed synthetic for life. The failure point isn't the turbo bearing, it's the oil return line from the turbo coking up and choking flow until a seal pops. If you buy the car, might as well replace that line anyway for peace of mind; it's a $20 part and reasonably easy to get to. Don't forget the paper gasket on each end. If it shifts real hard or shittily into 2nd or 3rd, the trans hasn't gotten the TSB solenoid spring replacement and reflash. IPD makes a better version of the replacement if it still needs done, although depending on the dealer you may still have to pay for the reflash. If the hood gets hung up on the driver's side wiper, don't worry! That's a feature, not a bug!  We loving love ours. How many miles on it?
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Oct 22, 2012 13:12
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I think the -00 and earlier s40/v40 has a lot of rust issues due to rubber trim around the wheel arches. Check that it hasn't started to rust. My -99 s40 2.0t sure has e: the fixed version came out in the fall of -00. Other than that the s/v40 are awesome cars. I love mine even though it looks like poo poo. e2: stole this pic from the interwebs, but basically the rubber trim surrounding the wheel collects moisture and make things rust. It's only on the phase 1 cars though. The phase 2 cars don't have those and have better rust protection in general. 
Pretty Cool Name fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Oct 22, 2012 |
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Oct 22, 2012 17:27
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Yeah, my comments are all about the phase 2 cars. rear end in a top hat Bicycle, what we're talking about with phase 2 is that there was a major overhaul done mid-'00. You're in the US, though, IIRC, and the US only got the phase 2 V40 and the later V50. I think we're the only ones to get the engine badged as a 1.9t, too. We have an '02 that was driven winters in PA for about 6 years (now in VA, where there's no winter), and zero rust except some damage from a bad battery.
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Oct 22, 2012 19:06
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I figured as much. The car doesn't have that trim on the wheel wells. I don't know how many miles yet. It wasn't open on Sunday when I looked at it. I'm headed over there at 4:00. I'll report back here. Here's a pic. 
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Oct 22, 2012 19:32
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Volvo OEM aside, what's a good brand for S/V70 control arms? The originals in my XC aren't long for this world, and while I'm not opposed to ponying up for the blue-box parts, I wouldn't mind saving a little money to put towards the other things that need addressed with the car.
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Oct 23, 2012 08:59
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Rubber suspension parts are definitely the one thing that the OEM is worth it to buy. The few companies doing replacements have had some serious quality problems, with people complaining that they need to replace again in as little as 10k miles. It's mostly just a few anecdotes and rumor but it's enough to get me to spend the extra bucks.
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Oct 23, 2012 16:02
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For what it's worth, I've bought a lot of Uro parts (rubber and otherwise) for my 740s, and every last loving one of them has been a piece of poo poo. They are the rotten-yet-enticing low-hanging fruit of repairing European cars. I kept buying them because I was poor and needed a fix now regardless of how soon it had to be done again. 
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Oct 23, 2012 16:30
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After doing a little more research, the Volvo OE control arms actually cost around $30 less per side than the FCP "premium" equivalent, so I guess snagging them from the dealer is a no-brainer.  I've used URO and MTC parts here and there in my cars, and never really had a problem with them, but I don't think I'd trust them for something as critical as suspension components. I just brought it up because FCP has several different product lines for FWD control arms, and I wasn't sure whether there was any wheat to be found in all the chaff.
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Oct 23, 2012 19:07
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What bushings are worth upgrading to polyurethane on 1988 240 sedan? A full set of front and rear poly bushings is damned expensive. Is it even worth doing at all, in fact?
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Oct 23, 2012 21:22
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