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MMD3 posted:just noticed smoke coming from my engine bay the other day on my 2005 Saabaru, popped the hood and saw coolant splashed on the radiator & coolant reservoir, took it into the shop. $600 later I have a new radiator and thermostat You .. .. wow. You need to learn to do some maintenance and save a bundle.
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Oct 19, 2012 21:36
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Brake pads and rotors are really easy to do and very cheap. I don't know about the thermostat and radiator, but I'm guessing it's not any harder (just getting the coolant to be bubble-free is the hardest part, I guess). Do you have anywhere to work on it yourself?
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Oct 19, 2012 21:39
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Brake pads and rotors are really easy to do and very cheap. I don't know about the thermostat and radiator, but I'm guessing it's not any harder (just getting the coolant to be bubble-free is the hardest part, I guess). That last part is usually the catch-all for most. A rad change is fairly messy on Subarus as well.
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Oct 19, 2012 22:08
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I paid $142 for the labor to replace my radiator and about $100 for an OE replacement (not subaru branded but the same style and build). So like $270 all told with coolant.
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Oct 19, 2012 22:08
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Amandyke posted:I paid $142 for the labor to replace my radiator and about $100 for an OE replacement (not subaru branded but the same style and build). So like $270 all told with coolant. GD it... probably should've asked here before-hand. but I trust the mechanic and have been going there for a while so I'm sure that was the going rate. They said they recommend replacing the thermostat at the same time as the rad. not sure what the logic is behind that but I went ahead and did that, and then they bill for coolant flush at the same time apparently, seems like that'd be rolled into the cost of the radiator replacement but what do I know.
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Oct 20, 2012 00:16
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MMD3 posted:GD it... probably should've asked here before-hand. but I trust the mechanic and have been going there for a while so I'm sure that was the going rate. They said they recommend replacing the thermostat at the same time as the rad. not sure what the logic is behind that but I went ahead and did that, and then they bill for coolant flush at the same time apparently, seems like that'd be rolled into the cost of the radiator replacement but what do I know. Thermostats are cheap and you might as well while you have the coolant drained. They usually charge separately for parts and fluids.
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Oct 20, 2012 04:34
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MMD3 posted:GD it... probably should've asked here before-hand. but I trust the mechanic and have been going there for a while so I'm sure that was the going rate. They said they recommend replacing the thermostat at the same time as the rad. not sure what the logic is behind that but I went ahead and did that, and then they bill for coolant flush at the same time apparently, seems like that'd be rolled into the cost of the radiator replacement but what do I know. Charging for a coolant flush when you have to drain the coolant anyway to replace the radiator doesn't make sense to me... Especially when it takes all of 5 minutes to drain...
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Oct 20, 2012 05:03
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Rocketmoose posted:Hello subie goons, I grabbed a brand new wrx a month and a half ago and I am now in the market for accessport. If I bought the perrin, does it still come with the cobb maps/ability to download them or are they wiped? Yes, you can install Cobb's software and then put whatever maps you want on the AP. They have lots of them on the website. You can also save the existing maps that are on it. If you are not set on using a perrin map I could probably save you a few bucks on an accessport.
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Oct 20, 2012 06:11
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Amandyke posted:Charging for a coolant flush when you have to drain the coolant anyway to replace the radiator doesn't make sense to me... Especially when it takes all of 5 minutes to drain... Getting to call it something "automotive" makes it intimidating, I think. I've held off doing a lot of stuff on my car, thinking it would be crazy hard just because it had some dumb term attached to it. For a layperson, it's just too easy to get bogged down with terminology sometimes, in my experience. I could have done my own radiator a few years ago, but it was before I "got into" cars and cared, so I just assumed they wouldn't screw me over too bad and tossed money at a shop. It makes it really easy for shops to add in those "extra" things.
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Oct 20, 2012 13:21
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The Jabberwocky posted:Getting to call it something "automotive" makes it intimidating, I think. I've held off doing a lot of stuff on my car, thinking it would be crazy hard just because it had some dumb term attached to it. For a layperson, it's just too easy to get bogged down with terminology sometimes, in my experience. I could have done my own radiator a few years ago, but it was before I "got into" cars and cared, so I just assumed they wouldn't screw me over too bad and tossed money at a shop. It makes it really easy for shops to add in those "extra" things. Not to mention stuff like rusted bolts can stop you in your tracks if you are not prepared for them.
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Oct 20, 2012 15:23
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daslog posted:Not to mention stuff like rusted bolts can stop you in your tracks if you are not prepared for them. That was the big thing when I was starting out. It can still frustrate the poo poo out of me and waste a day, that and seized wiring connectors.
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Oct 20, 2012 16:34
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I've got ringland failures on cylinders 1 and 4 in my legacy gt motor, the 4 piston is also cracked. To make a long story short i'm getting 100mm wiseco pistons and ACL bearings put in (rods are forged and ok) and taking the chance to get all oil seals, gaskets, hoses and the timing belt replaced since the motor is out. I am also getting the meth injection removed as that was a possible factor in the failure. The car has a TD05-20G which is still in good condition. So it's a chance to start afresh and i'm getting the tuner to load up the stock map and work from there to give me a new, conservative tune once everything is run-in. I'd like to get a general opinion on what boost levels would be considered safe to aim for assuming fuelling mods are also done? The car is mostly highway driven on 200 mile trips where i will occasionally pull hard from 70-130 mph to drop tailgaters and settle into a 100-115mph cruising speed when traffic is clear.
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Oct 20, 2012 17:28
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raffie posted:I've got ringland failures on cylinders 1 and 4 in my legacy gt motor, the 4 piston is also cracked. To make a long story short i'm getting 100mm wiseco pistons and ACL bearings put in (rods are forged and ok) and taking the chance to get all oil seals, gaskets, hoses and the timing belt replaced since the motor is out. I am also getting the meth injection removed as that was a possible factor in the failure. The car has a TD05-20G which is still in good condition. Please consider CP pistons instead, the 100mm wiseco STI pistons are 8.9:1 thus raising the compression from stock levels. Unless of course you want the higher compression. The reason why your pistons failed was likely not the meth kit, but rather the hypercasting that subaru has been using since 2006. Unless of course you have a pre-2006 legacy, in which case your car would have had to of been knocking or making some rather high cylinder pressures to crack the piston.
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Oct 20, 2012 18:34
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Seat Safety Switch posted:That was the big thing when I was starting out. It can still frustrate the poo poo out of me and waste a day, that and seized wiring connectors. Yeah, I tend to go a bit overboard now and just order replacements before starting a project. I have a big box full in my garage now in preparation for suspension work. Being stranded because of one stupid bolt is basically the worst thing. I haven't had the guts to do much wiring. There are gremlins in there somewhere, but I have zero electrical knowledge/experience, so they get to live a while longer 
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Oct 20, 2012 19:56
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raffie posted:
What else do you have in there besides the upgraded turbo?
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Oct 20, 2012 20:41
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Amandyke posted:Please consider CP pistons instead, the 100mm wiseco STI pistons are 8.9:1 thus raising the compression from stock levels. Unless of course you want the higher compression. The reason why your pistons failed was likely not the meth kit, but rather the hypercasting that subaru has been using since 2006. Unless of course you have a pre-2006 legacy, in which case your car would have had to of been knocking or making some rather high cylinder pressures to crack the piston. I have an 2005 lgt that had two pistons fail without knocking or anything. 2005 EJ257 pistons suck, just less than 2006 ones.
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Oct 20, 2012 21:18
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The 2005's all blow the gently caress up. The later ones probably had the poo poo stock pistons and like to blow up too. loving legacy GT's.... Too bad I want another one...
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Oct 21, 2012 01:19
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Amandyke posted:Please consider CP pistons instead, the 100mm wiseco STI pistons are 8.9:1 thus raising the compression from stock levels. Unless of course you want the higher compression. The reason why your pistons failed was likely not the meth kit, but rather the hypercasting that subaru has been using since 2006. Unless of course you have a pre-2006 legacy, in which case your car would have had to of been knocking or making some rather high cylinder pressures to crack the piston. Yeah the only problem is availability out here and the wisecos are the only ones readily available. It's either wisecos or mahles which have to be ordered and cost at least 50% more. The engine was running with forged pistons previously as well, but there were major knock issues encountered. With the compression up like this, what would be a safe boost level to aim for? 16-17 psi?
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Oct 21, 2012 01:23
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raffie posted:Yeah the only problem is availability out here and the wisecos are the only ones readily available. It's either wisecos or mahles which have to be ordered and cost at least 50% more. The engine was running with forged pistons previously as well, but there were major knock issues encountered. I run 20 psi on my wiseco's.
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Oct 21, 2012 02:25
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Slow is Fast posted:The 2005's all blow the gently caress up. Find one with forged pistons or factor it into the cost. The piston issue is why I'm never buying another turbo subaru (but keeping mine with forged pistons)
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Oct 21, 2012 02:41
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I am trying to put my new motor (v8 ej207) into my 02 wrx, but I can't seem to get the engine to mate with the transmission. I have left the turbo on as the instructions in the fsm didn't as to remove it. Am I supposed to take the turbo off to get the engine on? I was hoping to avoid that as it looks fairly complicated.
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Oct 22, 2012 01:38
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blindjoe posted:I am trying to put my new motor (v8 ej207) into my 02 wrx, but I can't seem to get the engine to mate with the transmission. Is your clutch alined right on the engine? How did you put it on, if it hasn't been aligned well, it won't slip over the splines. Put the transmission in 5th gear with the parking brake on. As you're pushing the engine into the transmission, turn the crank back and forth a bit with a braker bar, it'll get the splines lined up. Also, you have to put the engine in really straight to the input shaft or it won't line up with the pilot bearing. Clean up the alignment pegs, clean up the holes they mate to. Make sure the engine and transmission don't both have a peg on the same side or it will never seat... Put anti-seize on them so it goes together (and in the future, comes apart), nicely.
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Oct 22, 2012 02:31
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chrisgt posted:Is your clutch alined right on the engine? How did you put it on, if it hasn't been aligned well, it won't slip over the splines. One of the pegs is stuck in my old block. Do I need them both or will 1 and all the bolts be enough? Also, its the turbo hitting a rib on the transmission. I read more about it, and people seem to wiggle it on. I mustn't have gotten the right angle.
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Oct 22, 2012 02:52
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Slow is Fast posted:The 2005's all blow the gently caress up. Just bought a 2005 LGT, you guys are freaking me out. What's the deal with 2005?
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Oct 22, 2012 02:57
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bidikyoopi posted:Just bought a 2005 LGT, you guys are freaking me out. What's the deal with 2005? Same issue as with all EJ25 turbos. Piston ringlands are made out of cheese.
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Oct 22, 2012 03:55
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nm posted:Same issue as with all EJ25 turbos. Piston ringlands are made out of cheese. Even bone stock (Subaru air filter and all) with proper maintenance (synth oil every 3,500 miles, etc)? I don't plan on even accesporting this car, my main thing is reliability on my 05 aut GT!
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Oct 22, 2012 05:48
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mulligan posted:Even bone stock (Subaru air filter and all) with proper maintenance (synth oil every 3,500 miles, etc)? Yes. In fact, the stock tune is probably less safe than a good tune.
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Oct 22, 2012 05:56
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nm posted:Yes. In fact, the stock tune is probably less safe than a good tune. There are no Subbie tuners in my country, a shitload of Evo/RX-7/NIssan tunners but not a single decent Subbie one... so I guess all I can do is keep the maintenance schedule, check fluids and hope for the best.
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Oct 22, 2012 06:09
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mulligan posted:There are no Subbie tuners in my country, a shitload of Evo/RX-7/NIssan tunners but not a single decent Subbie one... so I guess all I can do is keep the maintenance schedule, check fluids and hope for the best. You can do tunes by email, to a certain extent.
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Oct 22, 2012 06:12
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Seat Safety Switch posted:You can do tunes by email, to a certain extent. The only choice I considered is Infamous Performance tunes since they have been greatly recommended, but due to my concerns on fuel quality, I am loving nervous on upping the power on my car, the best "gas" we have here is the equivalent of MAYBE 91 octane and it's not guaranteed, some gas stations have been found to alter fuel in order to increase profits and I don't wanna live with that fear. If they can tune the car with the same tolerance and knock adjustment as the stock one, while cleaning the map, by all means, I'd rather get an 15 HP / 20 TQ increase in the name of reliability, hell, screw the power, all I want is reliability, the stock power is fine bye me.
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Oct 22, 2012 06:18
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nm posted:Yes. In fact, the stock tune is probably less safe than a good tune. That said, if you do a compression and leak down test on the motor and it checks out, it is unlikely that you'll have a problem if you don't beat the crap out of it too much.
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Oct 22, 2012 06:21
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Amandyke posted:That said, if you do a compression and leak down test on the motor and it checks out, it is unlikely that you'll have a problem if you don't beat the crap out of it too much. No track days, no auto x, no drag runs on it so far... proper oil care, proper coolant, nice and warmed up before driving. I may accelerate on it to get to 60 or pass another car, but I treat it pretty well, the only 2 things I might add is a 06 sti up pipe and maybe Cosworth/Apexi panel filter. Note: I DO have fun on the backroads, but nothing too harsh on it!
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Oct 22, 2012 06:25
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^^^^^^^ 06 up-pipe will improve reliability. mulligan posted:There are no Subbie tuners in my country, a shitload of Evo/RX-7/NIssan tunners but not a single decent Subbie one... so I guess all I can do is keep the maintenance schedule, check fluids and hope for the best. What country are you in? If you don't have US emissions tuning, you might be ok. Also, access to higher octane gas would help a lot -- I'd certainly use the highest you can get -- as detonation causes it.
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Oct 22, 2012 06:28
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nm posted:Yes. In fact, the stock tune is probably less safe than a good tune. I find this a weeeeee bit hard to believe, given a very thrashed STOCK WRX would be still going hard if it wasnt for a broken oil pickup, the engine internals at teardown were pretty much perfect other than of course what the pickup would have done. Put the highest availible octane fuel in, no problem. The stock pickup.... well... that's a whole different issue. That IS poo poo.
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Oct 22, 2012 06:30
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Cat Terrist posted:I find this a weeeeee bit hard to believe, given a very thrashed STOCK WRX would be still going hard if it wasnt for a broken oil pickup, the engine internals at teardown were pretty much perfect other than of course what the pickup would have done. Put the highest availible octane fuel in, no problem. I would strongly suspect we have different engine tuning out here. We're also running 91 AKI (~95 RON), which is probably much lower that you get. nm fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Oct 22, 2012 |
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Oct 22, 2012 06:35
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nm posted:^^^^^^^ Yup, don't want the cat taking the turbo out.... I'm in DR, great weather, beer and beaches... horrible gas ... I am running close to 91 with octane booster.
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Oct 22, 2012 06:36
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nm posted:We're also running 91 AKI (~95 RON), which is probably much lower that you get. 98 RON. I will not put 95RON in a turbo car unless I have zero choice - No margin for error.
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Oct 22, 2012 06:51
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Cat Terrist posted:98 RON. I will not put 95RON in a turbo car unless I have zero choice - No margin for error. I am curious whether the ring issue is as bad in Australia as it is here. I don't think you can find a subaru dealer or shop that doesn't have at least one car getting its pistons replaced in it right now. nm fucked around with this message at 06:59 on Oct 22, 2012 |
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Oct 22, 2012 06:57
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nm posted:
Nope, it's basically only cars pushing power that break pistons.
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Oct 22, 2012 09:13
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Ok, As I cant find a straight answer on the Interwebs. Are the 2004 RX / WRX front hubs the same as the 2004 STi units or are they different? Brakes aside... And As far as i remember the 2005 Liberty units are the same as the 2005 STi units except for 100x5 PCD... Correct?
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Oct 22, 2012 12:20
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