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Sagebrush posted:You should get him to make you some totally badass brake and clutch levers with, like, big metal scythes on them, and spikes and poo poo. And a tailgunner exhaust, except the barrels are all skulls. They work for one of the largest titanium producers on the east coast.  But yeah I definitely intend to reimburse him somehow. The guy wanted to machine my license plate bracket out of billet aluminum. "But I think it can just be done with some sheet meta-" "NO. BILLET."
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Oct 17, 2012 19:17
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Dzus posted:My friend's buddy at work is a machinist. He told him that anything I want machined for my bike, its mine. So aside from everything, what would look cool/still be safe made out of billet or possibly titanium? I was thinking of the rear brake lever and shifter, possibly the triple trees? an easy one is some nice knurled pegs.
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Oct 17, 2012 20:30
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Dzus posted:Forgive my ignorance here, by rearsets, you mean the upside down black googly boogly bracket thing here: In rough order of difficulty(?), 1. Fender eliminator/plate bracket 2. Rearsets/new pegs (or clean up the old ones), especially if you don't use the pillion pegs. 3. Fork brace, just because 4. Fairing/light unit support bracket 5. Triple clamps 6. Complete braced swingarm (you probably have to offer bum sex though)
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Oct 17, 2012 21:00
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Surely you mean bum sex with Dzus' wife. Machinists are manly men 
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Oct 17, 2012 22:25
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Sagebrush posted:Surely you mean bum sex with Dzus' wife. Machinists are manly men If you're a manly enough machinist you can have sex with a dude and it's not gay.
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Oct 18, 2012 00:04
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I decided I want a higher handlebar. I have dirt bike handlebars on my 636, but it's a bit too low and narrow. I love the Bikemaster Daytona handlebars on my SV650, which lets me relax and control the bike like nothing else. Does anyone have a specific wide, high-rise dirtbike handlebar in mind? It needs a brace in the middle, which my gauge mounts to. I'm looking for similar specs to: 29.2'' width - 742 mm 5.36'' rise - 136 mm 3'' pullback - 76.2 mm 4.4'' center - 112 mm the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Oct 18, 2012 |
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Oct 18, 2012 02:29
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MotoMind posted:If you're a manly enough machinist you can have sex with a dude and it's not gay. Gay men can be manly men too ya know. Also, an obvious thing to do if they have ti tubing sitting around would be to make a lightweight subframe. Original is probably steel and chunky given bike's age(?) E: twd, renthal and pro taper have measurements and angles on their sites
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Oct 18, 2012 07:11
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americanzero4128 posted:Edit - just ordered a new stator, $140 with free shipping and I'll have it by Thursday. Unfortunately I won't be able to get a new turn signal switch by this weekend, so I might try taking it apart and seeing if there's anything I can do, clean up connections, make sure there's no uninsulated wires, all that good stuff. Maybe I can get out without having to spend $75 on the turn signal switch poo poo. I had a problem identical to yours (right turn signal was just on and not blinking) and I just took the switch apart, sprayed everything out with contact cleaner, buffed it with some #0000 brass wool, and put it back together. It's just bare copper contacts inside a not-really-weatherpoof plastic bit, so the contacts can get corroded over time. Make sure you don't lose any of the little fiddly springs or plastic bits. There are quite a few of them in there, and any of them missing means one function won't work. I put a plastic piece in backwards and couldn't go to "off;" it was only ever blink left or blink right. Murphy's Law and whatnot.
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Oct 18, 2012 11:55
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With a machinist on call, what are the boring limits on that block? o.O
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Oct 18, 2012 15:21
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Sagebrush posted:Surely you mean bum sex with Dzus' wife. Machinists are manly men These guys look like some pretty manly men. http://imgur.com/a/wgzxq
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Oct 19, 2012 16:03
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HotCanadianChick posted:These guys look like some pretty manly men. http://imgur.com/a/wgzxq I love reading Magazine magazine over my twin's shoulder! 
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Oct 19, 2012 16:30
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I have a downshifitng question. I'm at a loss why my downshifting is still so hesitant. It think it's because I'm still uncomfortable with blapping the throttle because I'm unsure of how much blap to give it. Say I'm on your usual 4 lane city road going 35-40 and in 3rd gear. As I'm coming up to a 90 deg. turn and have to shift to second for enough power to get out, I clutch in and as I'm going through the turn release clutch slowly while giving throttle. It's not bad but it just seems sloppy. Any suggestions?
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Oct 19, 2012 21:57
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MoraleHazard posted:I have a downshifitng question. I'm at a loss why my downshifting is still so hesitant. It think it's because I'm still uncomfortable with blapping the throttle because I'm unsure of how much blap to give it. Complete the downshift before you turn in so that you can roll on the throttle through the turn. Ride more, it will become muscle memory soon.
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Oct 19, 2012 21:58
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Downshift before the turn. ed: blaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
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Oct 19, 2012 21:59
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MoraleHazard posted:I have a downshifitng question. I'm at a loss why my downshifting is still so hesitant. It think it's because I'm still uncomfortable with blapping the throttle because I'm unsure of how much blap to give it. Downshift before the corner as nsaP mentions, and rather than blipping you can just slip the clutch a bit to bring the RPMs back up. Easier to coordinate when you're starting.
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Oct 19, 2012 22:54
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Thanks. I do downshift before the turn, but the ease-in roll on happens during the turn with maybe a second or so of "coasting" with the clutch all the way in. Ehh. I'll just have to practice blapping more.
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Oct 19, 2012 23:12
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When I say downshift before the turn I mean complete the downshift before the turn. Hand off the clutch before you turn in. Your process should be something like: Brake Clutch in Shift Gear down Ease clutch out/rev match Light throttle and turn in Roll on the throttle as you go thru the turn
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Oct 19, 2012 23:18
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It'll help your confidence mid turn doing this as well, I don't know the physics of it but the bike is much more stable when the rear wheel is hooked up to the motor. You're hesitant because it's awkward to go into a corner clutched in and then hooking it up mid corner. Riding classes will teach you to be light on the throttle as you turn in but sometimes I like to be rolling off into the turn to transfer a bit of weight to the front of the bike. I'm sure someone will tell me this is wrong. Really the only time you want the clutch held in is when you are stopped. Once you're moving it's out or slipping. You don't need to have the clutch all the way in to downshift either, a light pull into the friction zone is usually enough.
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Oct 19, 2012 23:28
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I go around turns in the city with the clutch in the friction zone, it's kind of necessary a lot of the time with a wide ratio gearbox and it helps smooth out the throttle transition from decel approaching turn to roll-on through turn.
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Oct 20, 2012 00:05
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americanzero4128 posted:I'm also having a problem with my left turn signal. The front turn signals run normally as running lights; the rears do not. When I flip my switch to turn left, the front turns off and the rear does not blink. When I reset it, the front comes back on and the rear does not. Turning right causes no issues. I'm thinking it is the turn signal relay, since it dies as soon as I try to turn it on, but I don't really know how to test that short of just replacing the turn signal relay and crossing my fingers. Check your grounds. On my old bike, one signal would stay steady on while the other side was fine. Eventually turned out to be a loose wire going into a ground connection on the front end of the frame.
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Oct 20, 2012 03:35
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clutchpuck posted:I go around turns in the city with the clutch in the friction zone, it's kind of necessary a lot of the time with a wide ratio gearbox and it helps smooth out the throttle transition from decel approaching turn to roll-on through turn. Maybe that's why I'm instinctively doing it this way. I don't have the "sloppiness" problem in the twisties, it's on city streets. Maybe it's not even sloppy and I'm just being a perfectionist.
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Oct 20, 2012 13:36
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Sagebrush posted:Surely you mean bum sex with Dzus' wife. Machinists are manly men As a machinist, I'll say most machinists nowadays aren't really manly men. We're prissy little button pushers that occasionally get dirty.
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Oct 20, 2012 15:19
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I'm looking at possibly buying a DRZ-400, what are they like for long distance journeys? every now and again I'd like to do some long rides from Sydney to Brisbane, which is about 1000 Kilometers.
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Oct 22, 2012 03:36
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What speed would you be going? The DRZ can definitely go 60-70mph but it won't be too comfortable plus you'll be running pretty close to the bikes limit.
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Oct 22, 2012 03:59
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A good chunk of the trip is at 70mph, and last time I did the whole trip in one go so it's a good 12 hours of riding.
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Oct 22, 2012 04:17
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You'll probably be better with a DR650 but ask in the Supermotard thread as they'll know more about long distance on the DRZ.
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Oct 22, 2012 04:44
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theperminator posted:A good chunk of the trip is at 70mph, and last time I did the whole trip in one go so it's a good 12 hours of riding. If you want to do a fair amount of trail riding, I would stick with the drz rather than going to a big, heavy lump like a dr650 or xtz etc etc. I would just suggest gearing it up on the sprockets for the trip. I would have though the drz has enough power for you to drop the revs at 70 in 5th and still not be putting it under too much load. And sprockets are cheap.
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Oct 22, 2012 08:55
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theperminator posted:A good chunk of the trip is at 70mph, and last time I did the whole trip in one go so it's a good 12 hours of riding. The DRZ is just fine at 70mph. You'll give up long before it does. You can gear it down a bit to make it less revvy on the highway, but even stock its fine. The thing about the DRZ and long distance journeys is not its speed (it can do 100mph if you are patient), its the gas tank. The stock one is pretty small and is usually only good for 100 miles/160 kilometers or so. Tons of companies make aftermarket safari tanks for it though that greatly increase its range
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Oct 22, 2012 14:20
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I got my stator replaced over the weekend and am now charging at 14.45v, which is in the range of 13.8-14.5 that my Mosfet regulator should be putting out. Seems like I finally got my charging issue fixed after replacing the entire charging system; only $300 for parts. Only took me 4 hours to replace the stator! Didn't have time to look into my turn signal issue, but with the weather starting to get cold I'm just going to park it for the winter at my parents' house and mess with it then. Only my second year riding and I had a lot more issues with my bike than I thought I would. I think part of it can be attributed to the fact that I bought it after it had sat for a couple years with only being ridden once or twice a year.
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Oct 22, 2012 17:01
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Anybody know of a company that makes good, low profile mirrors? Basically I want to keep them as close to the inside of my bike as possible while still maintaining some visibility. The issue is that I lane split constantly and I cannot have anything wider than my shoulders without risking a brotruck's mirror clipping them. The bike in question is an '01 Bandit 1200s. Also, how well do handguards and grip muffs work for keeping out the cold? (34-40 degrees) Heated gloves / grips / liners are out of the question right now, unfortunately, but these seem easy enough to install.
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Oct 22, 2012 20:02
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Handguards alone won't do anything for cold, I think mine are useless except for decoration and causing aerodynamic resonance on my handlebars so I am going to hang some leather fringe from them for more decoration and maybe to dampen the resonance (or I might just take them off entirely). With grip heaters, I cook my palms and still freeze off my fingertips. Not sure about the muffs, I imagine they'd work well with warm gloves or grip heaters.
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Oct 22, 2012 20:19
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The reason I feel heated grips wouldn't work well in my case is because the only part of my hands that get cold are the parts the grip wouldn't even touch. Every other part of my hand feels warm and toasty no matter what glove I use, but the wind chill completely destroys the tips of my fingers. My commute starts before sunrise when it's very cold and misty. It's proving difficult to find a solution for this.  Would a heated glove liner work with any level of success? Or are they considered garbage and inconvenient? Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Oct 22, 2012 |
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Oct 22, 2012 20:41
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I have a pair of battery powered heated gloves. They are incredible. They're also not cheap. I'll report back with the brand when I get home.
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Oct 22, 2012 20:52
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Xovaan posted:The reason I feel heated grips wouldn't work well in my case is because the only part of my hands that get cold are the parts the grip wouldn't even touch. Every other part of my hand feels warm and toasty no matter what glove I use, but the wind chill completely destroys the tips of my fingers. My commute starts before sunrise when it's very cold and misty. It's proving difficult to find a solution for this. Not sure I've ever come across heated glove liners (but I'd love to get my hands on some) but it sounds like heated gloves are what you're looking for. I have issues feeling the cold, so it's always odd for me to understand this sort of stuff. Having said that, getting off a bike with hypothermia is a more interesting experience.
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Oct 22, 2012 20:55
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Xovaan posted:The reason I feel heated grips wouldn't work well in my case is because the only part of my hands that get cold are the parts the grip wouldn't even touch. Every other part of my hand feels warm and toasty no matter what glove I use, but the wind chill completely destroys the tips of my fingers. My commute starts before sunrise when it's very cold and misty. It's proving difficult to find a solution for this. Before you drop a ton of cake on expensive electric poo poo, spend the $16 to try these out: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/53/218/962/-/15583/Tusk-Hand-Mitts I have them for my DRZ, and with normal gloves, my hands were sweating on a 40 degree morning in them.
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Oct 22, 2012 21:30
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Listen, I put hand mitts on my Enfield for last winter, and they were awesome. I bought generic $12 ones from Amazon (rhino or something?), and it saved my hands all winter. Good stuff.
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Oct 22, 2012 21:37
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Xovaan posted:Anybody know of a company that makes good, low profile mirrors? Basically I want to keep them as close to the inside of my bike as possible while still maintaining some visibility. The issue is that I lane split constantly and I cannot have anything wider than my shoulders without risking a brotruck's mirror clipping them. The bike in question is an '01 Bandit 1200s. Hand guards do nothing. Mitts plus heated grips work.
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Oct 22, 2012 21:50
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Before you drop a ton of cake on expensive electric poo poo, spend the $16 to try these out: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/53/218/962/-/15583/Tusk-Hand-Mitts And these will fit the B12?  Geirskogul posted:Listen, I put hand mitts on my Enfield for last winter, and they were awesome. I bought generic $12 ones from Amazon (rhino or something?), and it saved my hands all winter. Good stuff. Any specific links? I can't find ones that use Prime (I am a nerd)
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Oct 22, 2012 22:10
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Xovaan posted:And these will fit the B12? Looks like you'll need to make a hole for your mirror stalks and they don't come off easy with the mirrors mounted through them.
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Oct 22, 2012 22:24
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It's a good thing I don't have mirrors.  I have an '01 B12s so they come from the fairing not the handlebars.
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Oct 22, 2012 22:27
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