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Electric Bugaloo posted:So I know that this thread isn't generally the place for speculative talk, but I've been all giddy and ruffled over the expected crossing of the much-ballyhooed M135i over to the US. Right now, the consensus is that it'll be introduced in 2014, it won't ever be coming over in hatchback form I wonder if they'll bring the sedan variation over. Do you think they'll release it in 2013 as a 2014 model? I've been considering purchasing a 335i next year, but would prefer something a bit more compact. I do wish they'd bring the 5 door version 
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Oct 20, 2012 22:42
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significantly cheaper
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MrChips posted:That said, the difference between 5.1 and 4.9 to 60 is so tiny that you'll never feel the difference; even if you lined the cars up and ran those times, the auto would be ahead by maybe a hood length. You're totally right. My reasons for potentially choosing an auto version have more to do with the fact that I'll most likely be living/working in a somewhat urban area in 2014 and that the car seems too well put together (and is, frankly, too expensive) for me to buy as "weekend car." I DD a stick shift right now and it's great 95% of the time, but my current home and commute are pretty stick-friendly and I'd imagine that it would get old pretty fast if I had to spend my mornings and afternoons on I-95. Also, I rather like the idea of having a car where I simply have to put my foot down and it goes fast smoothly and elegantly. I'm not exactly the fastest sprinter or smoothest shifter when it comes to launching a car off the line- so that 5.1 would probably end up looking like a 6.5 with me behind the wheel.  In an ideal world, I'd have two cars: something RWD and tossable and something with dedicated AWD/FWD for the winter/trips north/skiing (but also tossable?). Something with a hatchback/big boot and something that didn't necessarily need one. Something manual and something with video gamey flappy paddles. I suppose in the back of my mind, I'm thinking, "if you get an M235i with paddles, then you can pick up a used old WRX for all of your wagon/AWD/stick shift needs...yessss...yessss." Ethereal posted:I wonder if they'll bring the sedan variation over. Do you think they'll release it in 2013 as a 2014 model? I've been considering purchasing a 335i next year, but would prefer something a bit more compact. I do wish they'd bring the 5 door version I can't be sure. As far as I know, the consensus (and this is coming from BMW themselves) is that the current M135i will never make it West- just the same way the new hatchback 1 series won't make it here either. Instead, a notchback coupe series will be brought over under the 2 series moniker and there will be an M Performance version of that made (so M235i is the best guess that people have been throwing out) and the possibility of a full-bore M car ever further down the line. Right now, all of the talk points to a 2014 introduction of the M235i- so it might actually end up being a 2015 model. I too am sad about the hatchback, although I think a notchback is a brilliant idea. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Oct 21, 2012 |
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Oct 21, 2012 01:21
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Electric Bugaloo posted:So I know that this thread isn't generally the place for speculative talk, but I've been all giddy and ruffled over the expected crossing of the much-ballyhooed M135i over to the US. You can get an E82 135is coupe right now. It comes with the same engine that will be in the f20 m135i, but it has the DCT! They are the essentially the same car (highest performance of the 1 series line), but BMW is changing the naming scheme for the F20 generation. The M badge is just so BMW can charge more money and offer more "prestige" with the "M" 135 as opposed to just an "IS." If you are looking at 2014 and can deal with not having the newest generation, I'd think a CPO 135is would be considerably cheaper than a new m135i.
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Oct 21, 2012 01:40
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Isn't the M135i the hatch though?
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Oct 21, 2012 02:26
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I see a lot of info about setting up E39's for 2002 and 2003 E39's, but what about earlier models? Specifically mine is a 2001 with nav, so I've noticed just getting the bmw aux cable kit won't do it. I've heard about "dice media bridge" but it gets a bit confusing. I don't want to really change around the system at all, other than add the cable, but maybe the 2001 nav/radio unit can't have an aux input? Is there a way for less than $200?
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Oct 21, 2012 03:29
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Deceptor101 posted:Finally got the e39 540 working. Turns out the lean code was from a slow maf. It just could never keep up with the real airflow. My god its a changed car. Its so much faster than I thought it would be. And oh god my gas mileage is suffering, but I so don't care Glad you figured it out! I am surprised it was the MAF. Usually they are pretty sturdy units.... I loved my E39. It was sedate 4 door sedan when you just needed a commuter but would turn into a muscle car with a proper mashing of the throttle. Deceptor101 posted:I see a lot of info about setting up E39's for 2002 and 2003 E39's, but what about earlier models? Specifically mine is a 2001 with nav, so I've noticed just getting the bmw aux cable kit won't do it. I've heard about "dice media bridge" but it gets a bit confusing. I don't want to really change around the system at all, other than add the cable, but maybe the 2001 nav/radio unit can't have an aux input? Is there a way for less than $200? I am afraid that your looking at 200 ish. Sorry man, but the Dice Media Bridge is the only way to go! Here is a video to make you feel warm and fuzzy.... makes me want to move to Germany on a regular basis.... http://youtu.be/3uCexmJham4 BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Oct 21, 2012 |
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Oct 21, 2012 05:22
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Bovril Delight posted:Isn't the M135i the hatch though? Technically yes, but the hatch version won't make it to the USA. There is supposedly a coupe (235i?) or vert version of the m135i coming to the US and that's what I was talking about.
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Oct 21, 2012 05:51
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Hey another lighting question: In my 2003 325iT, can I just use my halogens as my headlights? I would probably want to put a brighter bulb in there but I want to put off troubleshooting my xenon igniter issues for as long as possible and if I can get away with just a quick and easy bulb swap on the halogens I am all for that..
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Oct 21, 2012 21:04
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nm
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Oct 22, 2012 03:50
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Glad you figured it out! I am surprised it was the MAF. Usually they are pretty sturdy units.... The PO installed a K&N airbox filter, and probably over-oiled it, he was terrible at taking care of the car in any other way, so why would he surprise me here. Now that I'm doing some full throttle shifts, I feel like I'm REALLY feeling the CDV, or the clutch is slipping.... It doesn't slip when you put it in 4th/5th at like 20mph though, so I imagine it's just the cdv messing with things. That's next on the list! I'll start looking into the mediabridge. I guess the other option is a new unit like a dynavin, but obviously that's way more. That video is fantastic, these cars have so much power  .
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Oct 22, 2012 16:06
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 So I picked this guy up a while back. 2002 330i sport package, black sapphire on black, manual trans with only 58k on the clock. It has Pilot Sport A/S Plus all around for tires, but the front two are nearing wear-bar territory. Any opinions on if I should just stick with these or switch to something else? The rears are almost new. They're pretty expensive compared to some other offerings on Tire Rack. I was looking at the Continental Extremecontact DWS. I don't think there should be much of an issue running two different sets of tires rear and front is there? My only reason to consider switching is that I'll end up encountering a reasonable amount of snow now and then in the Midwest. The only previous owner only drove it in the summer so I don't think he ever had an issue with the Pilot Sports. destructo fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Oct 22, 2012 |
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Oct 22, 2012 18:22
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destructo posted:
I picked up Hankook Ventus V12s for my car. I'll be honest - I couldn't tell you the difference between tires because I never had absolutely new Pilot Sports or anything else. That being said, they got a pretty decent review from C&D: http://www.caranddriver.com/comparisons/hankook-ventus-v12-evo-page-10 Edit: I also know the pain of owning a black car. I can never get it clean. But the moment I have a car wash, its so beautiful. Sometimes, it feels like its almost worth it. But not during pollen season. Then the car just looks lovely and will be lovely in 1 day. Shadowhand00 fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Oct 22, 2012 |
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Oct 22, 2012 22:07
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Destructo, I would hate to own a black car, but a 330 with that low mileage sounds so fantastic. Nice find. I run the Exremecontact DWS, and while they're not the best for speedy handling, they've handled light snow and rain magnificently. Plus they're generally a pretty good price point. On the note of the CDV delete, I did some more research and it sounds like it's just the CDV and not my clutch slipping. I read on some sites you can just unscrew the CDV from the line, and then screw the line straight into the tranny. Does that apply on the e39 540? Otherwise there's the modified option from Zeckenhaus, but I like the idea of doing it all in one day and not spending any money (obviously). Anyone have any experience with this?
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Oct 22, 2012 22:22
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I have Conti Extreme DW (no "S") and besides the fact that they are lumpy as gently caress when cold (and that probably makes them hard to balance for avg hillbilly shop used to doing pickup trucks all day long), they perform great and are very quiet.
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Oct 22, 2012 22:34
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Deceptor101 posted:Destructo, I would hate to own a black car, but a 330 with that low mileage sounds so fantastic. Nice find. I run the Exremecontact DWS, and while they're not the best for speedy handling, they've handled light snow and rain magnificently. Plus they're generally a pretty good price point. Nah, just get under there and pop it out. It's a night and day difference that you will notice immediately.
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Oct 22, 2012 22:49
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ColdPie posted:Nah, just get under there and pop it out. It's a night and day difference that you will notice immediately. Remember to bleed it before sealing everything back up. Don't do the "only a little spilled" thing.
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Oct 22, 2012 23:03
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Shadowhand00 posted:I picked up Hankook Ventus V12s for my car. I'll be honest - I couldn't tell you the difference between tires because I never had absolutely new Pilot Sports or anything else. That being said, they got a pretty decent review from C&D: When I first got the V12's, the car felt sloppy. It's kind of hard to describe, but the tires just felt like they weren't as sure-footed as the DSW's were. Over time, their feel has gotten a bit better (do tires need a break-in period?). I chose the V12's because they were inexpensive and they had some good reviews online. Whether I'd do it again...I am not entirely sure. If the tires have a bit more break in left and they get a bit better, I'd do it again. If they have finally reached their plateau, I wouldn't say I would be 100% pleased. I got them at roughly $105 per tire. I'd probably move up to something a bit nicer.
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Oct 22, 2012 23:04
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:I have an '04 330Ci and I, too, recently put on a set of Hankook Ventus V12's. Previously, the car had Continental Extremecontact DSW's. The DSW's I drove for a bit less than 2 years. The V12's I've had for about 500 miles. Tires need a breakin, but only a few hundred miles. And yes, the V12s are sloppy (mine are 225/50/16). They got good reviews online in terms of raw time comparisons but the feedback is pretty terrible. Autocrossed quite a bit and did one trackday on my e36 328is. After having star specs on my ZHP, and the pilot sports on the M3 I'd never buy V12s again. Although I will give them credit for being really good in the rain when pushed.
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Oct 22, 2012 23:22
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Crustashio posted:Tires need a breakin, but only a few hundred miles. And yes, the V12s are sloppy (mine are 225/50/16). They got good reviews online in terms of raw time comparisons but the feedback is pretty terrible. Autocrossed quite a bit and did one trackday on my e36 328is. After having star specs on my ZHP, and the pilot sports on the M3 I'd never buy V12s again.
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Oct 23, 2012 00:20
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Jealous Cow posted:Remember to bleed it before sealing everything back up. Don't do the "only a little spilled" thing. Thanks, obviously will. On the e39 is the clutch reservoir shared with the brake fluid reservoir like on the e46? I've got some Super-blue hanging around the house, but no sense in using it on a clutch only system.
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Oct 23, 2012 00:23
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Deceptor101 posted:Thanks, obviously will. On the e39 is the clutch reservoir shared with the brake fluid reservoir like on the e46? I've got some Super-blue hanging around the house, but no sense in using it on a clutch only system. I would imagine. They've been shared since the 80s on the 3 series so I figure the other platforms would be the same.
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Oct 23, 2012 00:31
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E90's going back to the dealership to have the brake code reset. When I replaced the brakes neither wear sensor was open though, so I'm pretty convinced it's a problem upstream of the brake wear sensors. Anybody have any experience just closing the wear sensor loop at the ECU so that I don't have to deal with this crap again in the future? Seems like it should be a simple fix.
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Oct 23, 2012 00:51
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Jealous Cow posted:I would imagine. They've been shared since the 80s on the 3 series so I figure the other platforms would be the same. Seems like solid logic, but on the e39 the cabin air filter housing (which I haven't learned how to take off yet) is hiding it, so I can't just go out and check.
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Oct 23, 2012 00:58
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Awesome, thanks for the feedback on tires guys. The one thing I am extremely happy about is that BMW rear view mirrors are backwards compatible across a slew of cars. Just installed a 2008 X5 mirror with autodim, hidden compass and homelink in about five minutes. Totally plug and play on the E46 if you have an autodim mirror already.
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Oct 23, 2012 05:05
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Deceptor101 posted:Seems like solid logic, but on the e39 the cabin air filter housing (which I haven't learned how to take off yet) is hiding it, so I can't just go out and check. Yeah, if you find out how to take it off, let me know. I've never really tried (and it can't be hard), but it'd be nice to know how it comes off before I try to take it off and snap a bunch of brittle plastic tabs or something.
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Oct 23, 2012 14:00
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Deceptor101 posted:Thanks, obviously will. On the e39 is the clutch reservoir shared with the brake fluid reservoir like on the e46? I've got some Super-blue hanging around the house, but no sense in using it on a clutch only system. Yes. Deceptor101 posted:Seems like solid logic, but on the e39 the cabin air filter housing (which I haven't learned how to take off yet) is hiding it, so I can't just go out and check. Hiding in plain sight I hope you mean. They're in the top left and right corners of the engine bay with a metal clip holding the tops on.
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Oct 23, 2012 16:49
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I have a feeling that my CEL is burnt out Every other light on the dashboard has come on at some point except that and it's my understanding that it should come on as part of the normal ignition sequence. Here have a video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlOO7H5OhvE&hd=1 Also I am unsure how to just embed the video
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Oct 25, 2012 01:12
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I recently had my manual `03 e46 wagon in for service (brakes, oil change, coolant expansion tank) and now when I start it up in the morning it starts really lumpy and sometimes just stalls out completely if I don't give it some gas. I think it'd be more related to the colder mornings we've been having now than the service, but I thought I'd mention. Anyway would this point to perhaps being the MAF sensor needs a cleaning or intake boot? Or something else? When it's running it runs totally fine, just the initial cold start is a problem.
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Oct 25, 2012 01:27
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Gordon Bombay posted:I have a feeling that my CEL is burnt out
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Oct 25, 2012 02:38
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Xenoid posted:Hiding in plain sight I hope you mean. They're in the top left and right corners of the engine bay with a metal clip holding the tops on. I think they just look more complicated than they are. I'll be doing the CDV this weekend, so I'll find out then. Now that I have the mechanicals more sorted, I splurged a bit on some aesthetics. New kidneys and a new roundel!:  You can see the old ones the PO had bought were cheap and terrible and didn't fit right. Plus the gloss black goes with the car's shadowline trim .
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Oct 25, 2012 03:05
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Lowclock posted:I agree. It should come on when you key the car on even if there are no codes. There's a little extra backup light on the SRS in case it burns out, but the CEL does not. I bet you have all kinds of codes going on, you just can't see them. I really don't want to pull my dash to replace the one light. If I hook a code reader up to the car will it tell me everything I have been missing?
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Oct 25, 2012 05:54
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Gordon Bombay posted:I really don't want to pull my dash to replace the one light. If I hook a code reader up to the car will it tell me everything I have been missing?
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Oct 25, 2012 06:31
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Lowclock posted:It's really not that difficult to replace them on that car. All that's holding the instrument cluster in there is 2 philips head screws in the top, no dash-pulling. Hell, just switch it with the fog light bulb or something and it won't cost you a cent. Since it's BMW proprietary and not OBD2, most places aren't going to be able to check codes. You can get BMW's software and an ADS interface, or one of those overpriced Peake code readers, or any number of other solutions, but normally that's just what the check engine light is for. The multitude of check control messages is pretty sweet too. I didn't realise it was that easy, after looking it up I wouldn't even need to remove the steering wheel. I wonder if the rear foglight indicator has a light in it that I could just steal. If not the fog light one works for me. I might attempt this tomorrow, anything else I should be concerned about?
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Oct 25, 2012 07:22
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Gordon Bombay posted:I might attempt this tomorrow, anything else I should be concerned about?
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Oct 25, 2012 07:27
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Gordon Bombay posted:I didn't realise it was that easy, after looking it up I wouldn't even need to remove the steering wheel. I wonder if the rear foglight indicator has a light in it that I could just steal. If not the fog light one works for me. Or you could just, y'know, get a bulb. It's only a couple dollars. Why steal the fog light bulb for that? FWIW, my '94 BMW also has a socket in the cluster for rear fogs, and did not have a bulb there. I added the bulb when I added the rear fogs.
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Oct 25, 2012 18:21
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Just disconnected then found this is why I didn't have a CEL Well there's your problem I then moved the fog light over to it and I did the stomp test I recorded for a while before I realized it was repeating itself so I'll cut it down and upload it for someone smarter than me to interpret. Also I will probably get another bulb sometime to put my fog lights back but it looks like I would need the little backing part of it. I need to order a bunch of OEM bulbs anyway or that's what I been told why my "tail light" message keeps popping up Edit: Here's the video after staring at it for like 5 minutes I'm pretty sure its telling me I have no codes but I wanna make sure of that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBob4AXFO6w&hd=1 Gordon Bombay fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Oct 25, 2012 |
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Oct 25, 2012 19:24
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Gordon Bombay posted:e34 stuff Check the trunk harness wiring and bulb sockets and stuff first before buying OEM bulbs for that tail light warning though. Generic bulbs shouldn't give you that message unless they are some weird super low/high wattage things, or are actually not working because the socket's hosed up or they're burnt out. I have the same car ('94 540) and not a single bulb is OEM and I've never gotten a false message and the lights all work. Assuming you actually do have coolant in there, you can pull that sensor out of the reservoir and clean it to get it unstuck and working again and fix the coolant level message. You shouldn't have to replace it. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Oct 25, 2012 |
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Oct 25, 2012 21:39
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Lowclock posted:More E34 Stuff The only 2 codes I have are Coolant and the tail light I checked the wiring and it was hosed at the trunk and I thought I fixed it but I'll check again. The coolant sensor was all kinds of gross and beyond repairable I bought a replacement for under 10 and put it in and the code went away for like 2 weeks and then it came back. I did have a trans program message but that was caused by the M/A switch being broken. Replaced it and now its all good and I can even go into sports mode! Right now I'm just trying to get rid of all the little things there is one big thing that just developed recently I let the car sit for a week and the battery just died but I think I left a light on inside the car but now when I recharged the battery and got it all good to go all the electronic things are backwards like the mirror controls are backwards the telescoping wheel I have to push to get it to come out instead of pull and the seat I pull it back to go forward. Gordon Bombay fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Oct 25, 2012 |
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Oct 25, 2012 22:19
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Gordon Bombay posted:I let the car sit for a week and the battery just died but I think I left a light on inside the car but now when I recharged the battery and got it all good to go all the electronic things are backwards like the mirror controls are backwards the telescoping wheel I have to push to get ti to come out instead of pull and the seat I pull it back to go forward. Ooooh, I had this one in my 840. Also after the battery had gone dead. Lucky for me, the only thing that was backwards on mine was the power seat and I think the mirrors if I remember right. I ended up having to replace the module under the driver's seat to fix it. The story I got was that low voltage can permanently damage certain modules in these cars. Which I believe, as I tried everything to get mine to go back the way it was, and nothing worked - short of replacing the module, of course. If you had access to fancy BMW computer tools, re-coding the module may work. Failing that, I'd try finding replacements on Ebay. That's where I got mine.
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Oct 25, 2012 22:43
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Well I can live with it for now, shocks/brakes/rotors are more important right now but I'll source the part and if its cheap enough buy it, might kill 2 birds with one stone as my headrest is currently not working on the drivers seat anyway EDIT: Looked it up and its about 350 new Haha well that's not happening right now. Gordon Bombay fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Oct 25, 2012 |
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Oct 25, 2012 22:47
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