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willkill4food posted:Did you just remove the filter, drain, measure, fill and then install the new filter? Did you use the snorkel they mention on myturbodiesel? No snorkel, just drain, measure, fill (+.1l to account for filter) and cap. Dead simple, took 45 minutes from start to finish.
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Oct 18, 2012 06:04
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I just bought my first VW, a 2007 Passat Wolfsburg edition. I've wanted a VW for a while now and I'm really happy with it. It has the in-dash navigation unit, but the owner only had the original DVD and it's horribly out of date. Just by going through the official channels it looks like a current DVD is $200? Is there a cheaper alternative?
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Oct 18, 2012 19:24
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nickutz posted:I just bought my first VW, a 2007 Passat Wolfsburg edition. I've wanted a VW for a while now and I'm really happy with it. It has the in-dash navigation unit, but the owner only had the original DVD and it's horribly out of date. Does that use the regular MFD-2 system? If so, they're for sale on the Touareg forums all the time for $60-$70, or so.
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Oct 18, 2012 23:53
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Wish the dealer warned me about the DPF regeneration cycle. Last time I drove a TDI in late 90's I don't ever remember it happening, was it by pure luck or new with the CR TDI's? Basically the car's cooling fan stays on high for up to 5mins once the key is removed from the ignition to keep the system from burning down.
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Oct 20, 2012 16:25
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I suppose you could also read the manual, since it is clearly described in there.
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Oct 20, 2012 23:49
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Bovril Delight posted:I suppose you could also read the manual, since it is clearly described in there. And it's also the case with basically every gas or diesel car released in the last 15 years, at least. I know the last 3 cars I've had have all kept the fan on if the engine isn't cool enough. I know if it's ultra hot in the summer it'll run for a minute or so. I've even seen it come BACK ON, on occasions.
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Oct 21, 2012 00:47
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timb posted:And it's also the case with basically every gas or diesel car released in the last 15 years, at least. I know the last 3 cars I've had have all kept the fan on if the engine isn't cool enough. I know if it's ultra hot in the summer it'll run for a minute or so. I've even seen it come BACK ON, on occasions. Correct, had it happen a few times on cars/bikes after a spirited drive in the summer but the operating temp on the engine was in the norm ambient temp was low. The DPF regeneration heats the exhaust gas temp to +300c to burn off soot in the filter, there's no warning/info light that its happening and I shut the car off in the middle of the cycle. As such the cooling fan was going full out cooling down the engine bay, slightly disconcerting. In regards to the manual the only mention is an info box on page 160 saying your fan might stay on after turning it off as per every other manual. Ended up finding out what exactly what happened after reading my turbo diesel DPF FAQ.
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Oct 21, 2012 01:23
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timb posted:And it's also the case with basically every gas or diesel car released in the last 15 years, at least. I know the last 3 cars I've had have all kept the fan on if the engine isn't cool enough. I know if it's ultra hot in the summer it'll run for a minute or so. I've even seen it come BACK ON, on occasions. No I'm pretty sure a Diesel particulate filter isn't standard on gas cars released in the last 15 years.
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Oct 21, 2012 01:35
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Bovril Delight posted:No I'm pretty sure a Diesel particulate filter isn't standard on gas cars released in the last 15 years. No, but the car's cooling fans staying on is. Which is what we were talking about. 
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Oct 21, 2012 04:54
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Meanwhile, the DPF also soaks up a good 6 mpg and 10+ hp. There is nothing wrong if it happens to run the fans after driving. Mine likes to do it 5 minutes before I pull into the garage. It KNOWS. Just drive the poo poo out of it the next time you get in it.
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Oct 22, 2012 15:09
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I think I'm having a problem with the key for my 2005 A4 (B6). When I went to drive my car tonight, I noticed that my keyless entry wasn't working. I tried using the remote to unlock the car and open the trunk, without success. I also noticed that the little red lights that usually indicate my security system is working weren't going off. I used the actual key to manually unlock the driver's door and enter the car. I immediately checked to make sure I didn't accidentily leave my cabin light on. Not only did I not leave the light on, but when I repeated flipped the switch, I noticed I couldn't turn them on at all. When I put the key in the ignition and turned, I got nothing. Not the engine trying to turn over but failing, just nothing. The ESP light on my dashboard turned on, but otherwise there were no signs that the car had power at all. I tried my valet key, with the same results. I drove the car less than 24 hours ago with no problems. I didn't leave the lights on, so I have no reason to suspect that the battery is dead. I also tried resetting the remote control to no avail. Anyone have idea what the issue could be? I'm at a total loss here.
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Oct 23, 2012 00:33
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Blakkout posted:I have no reason to suspect that the battery is dead. Other than the fact that the battery is obviously dead. Bring it to a parts store and have it load tested. Whether it fails or not, then test the alternator. If you don't have a multimeter to do that with the same parts store will also test that for you for free.
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Oct 23, 2012 02:05
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Yeah. Battery was dead. Went for a drive to give it a charge. Hope it's just the battery, and not the alternator. Thanks.
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Oct 23, 2012 02:39
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The DPF Regeneration is also the reason that you can't run Biodiesel (above 5%) in the new TDI's, whereas the old ones would take it fine.
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Oct 23, 2012 04:03
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I'm not sure if this question belongs here or in the winter tire thread, but I'll start here since it's particular to my car. I've got a 2012 GTI with 225/45 17" wheels/tires, and I'm looking to buy winter tires. I'm wondering if I will have any issues if I run a smaller (16") skinnier tire for winter - using the tire size calculator on miata.net it looks like 205/55R16 and 195/60R16 are pretty close to matching my 17" summer tires. I'm leaning towards the 205/55 size. Anything I need to know? Thanks!
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Oct 23, 2012 13:05
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Opensourcepirate posted:The DPF Regeneration is also the reason that you can't run Biodiesel (above 5%) in the new TDI's, whereas the old ones would take it fine. You actually can run higher bio, you just have to be aware of oil dilution.
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Oct 23, 2012 19:15
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tropical posted:I'm not sure if this question belongs here or in the winter tire thread, but I'll start here since it's particular to my car. Did this last year. You might run into the odd wheel that doesn't clear the brake calipers but otherwise its fine. I would look on vw forums and craigslist for used audi/vw alloy wheels rather than buying aftermarket wheels or steelies jeff8472 fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Oct 23, 2012 |
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Oct 23, 2012 19:26
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Back in March I got a 2008 VW Rabbit. I like it. It's got ~42k miles on it these days and its a 5-speed manual. Been driving stick ever since I started driving. I'm running the UM NA Stage 1 tune on it. Two things I've noticed: 1) I get a air intake/throttle position code intermittently. I can reset it with VCDS, but... it comes back every so often and it's annoying. Should I consider a different intake or MAF sensor? 2) Letting off the gas/giving the car gas, the car kinda pulls back a little bit/boosts forward more than i would imagine. Not as smooth as I would expect. 3) On a hill the car shakes a tiny bit. Is this just life? Or are there some easily identifiable things I should look at? (what might I look for in those things?) I've recently changed the sparks and filters and oil on my own (40k mile service) but these things were happening prior to the tune (#2 wasnt as much of an issue) and also prior to my service.
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Oct 24, 2012 01:25
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I just purchased a 2012 Jetta TDI and am loving it so far. The only thing it is looking like I'm going to have a problem with is I'm noticing a lot of rust showing on the brake rotors. Is there any way to prevent/slow the build-up down besides driving the car? I noticed it especially today on a rainy day when I went out to my car after work. I never noticed this as much on the Jeeps that I had before switching over to the new car.
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Oct 24, 2012 03:40
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Rotors can rust quite literally overnight, especially in humid or rainy conditions. There is no problem with it and you're never going to prevent it. Leave it alone.
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Oct 24, 2012 03:50
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Virigoth posted:I just purchased a 2012 Jetta TDI and am loving it so far. The only thing it is looking like I'm going to have a problem with is I'm noticing a lot of rust showing on the brake rotors. Is there any way to prevent/slow the build-up down besides driving the car? I noticed it especially today on a rainy day when I went out to my car after work. I never noticed this as much on the Jeeps that I had before switching over to the new car. My 2010's rotors are usually covered in rust after it rains some. The only real issue seems to be that it makes my brakes squeal a bit more for the first few stops. I don't think surface rust is really anything to worry about. For what it's worth, the brake squealing seems to be a german thing, since my dad's mercedes does the same, and that lives in a garage. And I've been beaten. tl;dr: it's fine. But out of curiosity, is the squealing the rust, or just the rotor/caliper combo?
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Oct 24, 2012 03:51
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mrbucket posted:Back in March I got a 2008 VW Rabbit. I like it. It's got ~42k miles on it these days and its a 5-speed manual. Been driving stick ever since I started driving. 1) What is the exact fault you're getting the the intake/throttle position? Post it if you've got it. Some cars have minor issues with the throttle body electrical connector that can cause a throttle angle sensor fault to store. If it's a correlation code betwene throttle position and air mass, that may be related to the tune. I haven't gotten too deep into the 2.5s to know how their management is set up, but that's a semi-common thing in other NA applications if the tuner doesn't set something right. 2) That is probably a characteristic of the tune. On drive-by-wire cars, tuners can change how much the throttle actually opens for a given gas pedal position. On stock tunes, this is pretty conservative and non-linear...the first 40% of pedal travel only gets you maybe 20% throttle to make the car feel smooth and promote economical driving habits. The tuner can ramp this up quite a bit, and when it's done right it feels awesome--it feels like you have a more powerful car that has laser-like throttle response. But there's a lot of nuance to this kind of tweak and if they didn't do a good job it can make it difficult to drive the car smoothly. An upgraded dogbone mount may help you as well. The dogbone mount attaches between the bottom of the transmission and the subframe, and resists the engine/transmission from tilting around due to power and engine braking. The stock mounts are very soft and allow quite a bit of movement, even if they haven't failed. Look around for replacement bushings, or even just polyurethane inserts that slide into the stock bushing. These should firm up shifting quite a bit. 3) I'd have to look at the car to get an idea of what this might be  .
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Oct 24, 2012 07:18
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SEStone posted:1) What is the exact fault you're getting the the intake/throttle position? Post it if you've got it. Some cars have minor issues with the throttle body electrical connector that can cause a throttle angle sensor fault to store. If it's a correlation code betwene throttle position and air mass, that may be related to the tune. I haven't gotten too deep into the 2.5s to know how their management is set up, but that's a semi-common thing in other NA applications if the tuner doesn't set something right. 1) Yeah, it's the P0068 correlation code. Which, honestly, is why I think its tune related. That seems like it could be tune related. I'll email UM, then. 2) I'll look at that. ECS seems to have a polyurethane insert, and I can rent a lift for cheap so that may be my next project. 3) Figured - its a pretty vague issue.
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Oct 24, 2012 12:11
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Almost new tire time for me (OK, so it pretty much is new tire time but I'm holding out for another $100 sale/coupon thing from Belle Tire if possible). 2006 A4 with 235/45R17. I know tire chat was going on here / winter tire thread, but I forgot what opinions were like on the Conti ExtremeContact DWS. For what it's worth, at least on TireRack, the Contis seem to be the only tires that come with a manufacturer road hazard warranty without any additional cost.
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Oct 24, 2012 15:56
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DWS' are a great tire. Good handling for an all-season while being comfortable, quiet, and compitent in the snow. That being said, we (the shop I work at) have seen some cars wear through a set of them in under 30k miles or create a lot of tread noise for no good reason. Most of the cars we see this happen on are larger, heavier cars such as A6s and 5/7 series, so it may be related to the way those cars handle or some weird load issue. For euro sportyish sedans, they've proven to be a good tire in the three years we've been selling them.
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Oct 25, 2012 06:38
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mrbucket posted:1) Yeah, it's the P0068 correlation code. Which, honestly, is why I think its tune related. That seems like it could be tune related. I'll email UM, then. Turns out I had the version of the software adjusted for a cold air intake. I don't have a cold air intake. Had it reflashed tonight and all is good now.
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Oct 26, 2012 04:15
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SEStone posted:DWS' are a great tire. Good handling for an all-season while being comfortable, quiet, and compitent in the snow. That being said, we (the shop I work at) have seen some cars wear through a set of them in under 30k miles or create a lot of tread noise for no good reason. Most of the cars we see this happen on are larger, heavier cars such as A6s and 5/7 series, so it may be related to the way those cars handle or some weird load issue. For euro sportyish sedans, they've proven to be a good tire in the three years we've been selling them. I have just over 14k on mine and they still look brand new. They do have a really soft sidewall though. Makes me run them at 40 psi.
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Oct 26, 2012 14:44
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So my wife's 05 1.8t a4 just had the oil pressure warning light blink. From what I've been reading the most likely cause is sludge in the pickup tube. Is this an easy job to do in the driveway, and if not, what am I looking to spend to have it done at a shop?
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Oct 31, 2012 21:25
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BJA posted:So my wife's 05 1.8t a4 just had the oil pressure warning light blink. From what I've been reading the most likely cause is sludge in the pickup tube. Wow...that's quite a leap to an assumption. This can be so many thing: a bad oil pressure sensor, the wrong grade of oil, fuel contaminated oil, failing oil pump, bad main bearings, clogged pickup screen........the list goes on. It would be advisable to get a manual oil pressure tester and test both cold and hot idle and 3k RPM pressures, change the oil and note the difference and whether it is in spec long before you go tearing the pan off.
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Nov 1, 2012 00:39
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So I've been adding oil to my 08' GTI every 2k or so and I wanted to get a gauge on my car's oil consumption. I let me car sit for about five minutes, take out the dip sick, wipe it down, the stick it back in for a measure. Typically, my oil is always on the low end of the sick. I add in one quart, let it sit for five minutes, then dip it back in for a measure. Usually it will be right in the middle at this point. My question is, is this normal to be adding a quart every 2k? Or should I bring it to the dealer? On another note, I get my oil changed at a local shop and they always use 5W-40. It seems that my local O'Rileys (the only car shop that I know of) do no carry it readily. Strange enough when they DO carry it, it seems that the label on the oil states that its for "Turbo Diesel Trucks". Dude at the O'Riley says the brand or "what it states on the bottle" do not really matter, "oil is oil" and that the only thing I should really be conserved about is the gravity/weight of the oil. Any suggestions on the oil? I'm currently using Mobil 1.
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Nov 1, 2012 01:50
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obi_ant posted:So I've been adding oil to my 08' GTI every 2k or so and I wanted to get a gauge on my car's oil consumption. Google 2.0 FSI oil consumption. Known issue, but I think the VW/dealer line is 1qt per 1k is within spec. You also want to run full synthetic through the FSI.
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Nov 1, 2012 01:57
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obi_ant posted:On another note, I get my oil changed at a local shop and they always use 5W-40. It seems that my local O'Rileys (the only car shop that I know of) do no carry it readily. Strange enough when they DO carry it, it seems that the label on the oil states that its for "Turbo Diesel Trucks". Dude at the O'Riley says the brand or "what it states on the bottle" do not really matter, "oil is oil" and that the only thing I should really be conserved about is the gravity/weight of the oil. Don't trust the generalizations made by people who are used to working with naturally aspirated domestics that are (about average in the U.S.) ten years old. Look through your manual for your VW approved oil specifications and buy only oil that meets that spec (it will probably be VW 502.00 / 505.00 / 505.01.) If whatever shop you use doesn't carry something that meets it, bring it in yourself. I think all of is full synthetic. Use full synthetic ONLY. You might get scoffed at (I know I have before) but gently caress 'em, it isn't their car.
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Nov 1, 2012 04:25
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That sounds like Shell Rotella T6, and if it is that's one of the best oils you can use in a turbocharged motor.
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Nov 1, 2012 05:12
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:That sounds like Shell Rotella T6, and if it is that's one of the best oils you can use in a turbocharged motor. It sounds like this actually since it's 5W-40 Mobil 1 and he mentioned it being for diesel trucks. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_Turbo_Diesel_Truck_5W-40.aspx
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Nov 1, 2012 05:14
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:That sounds like Shell Rotella T6, and if it is that's one of the best oils you can use in a turbocharged motor.
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Nov 1, 2012 07:42
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Bovril Delight posted:It sounds like this actually since it's 5W-40 Mobil 1 and he mentioned it being for diesel trucks. Yup, that is the oil I've been using. It seems like the ONLY oil I can get from O'Riley's thats 5W-40.
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Nov 1, 2012 08:26
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obi_ant posted:Yup, that is the oil I've been using. It seems like the ONLY oil I can get from O'Riley's thats 5W-40. Check the manual, but I believe the spec oil is 10w30. 0w30 is better if you can find it. My dad somehow managed to put over 240k on his 1.8t using nothing but dino oil. No idea how that car didn't cake itself to death.
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Nov 1, 2012 17:46
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Motronic posted:Wow...that's quite a leap to an assumption. Yea it was a jump. The light came on right after driving through a huge puddle thanks to sandy (not sure if related, but I doubt it) , so I was in a parking lot looking stuff up on Google, and read on some audi forums that it was the most common problem and easiest / cheapest fix. I checked the oil, it was a quart low, added one, then let it sit for 4 hours or so while trick or treating, then when I started it and drove it home the light didn't come back on. Oil looked pretty bad so changing it now.
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Nov 3, 2012 21:07
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Diesel Owners: It's hitting -20c overnight pretty regularly now, and it's my first winter with the Mk.4 TDI Golf. It has loads of battery, but without plugging it in, there's no way this baby is starting. I'm posting this while I wait for the block to heat up because I was an idiot and didn't plug it in despite the previous owners warnings. I have plug-ins pretty much everywhere (work, home, parents) that I might stay overnight, but I want to be prepared if I leave it for 8+ hours at a friends, at the mall, or at a ski resort or something. Is there a particular type of fuel I should put in (I don't really understand cetane vs. octane), additives I should use, or if I should carry a battery-booster. I don't even know if a battery booster would do any good. During the winter, it can hit -40 overnight here, and I'd rather not die in a parking lot.
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Nov 11, 2012 21:04
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PhancyPants posted:During the winter, it can hit -40 overnight here, and I'd rather not die in a parking lot. The fuel available to you is appropriate for your climate, but nothing is going to start your car unless you have the battery warm at the very least. You undoubtedly have a battery mat as well as a block heater. So....sorry, but no. If the battery is too cold to produce sufficient power, it's just not going to do anything. It's especially not going to be able to get the glowpulgs up to temp and then still have enough left to crank. The only solution to this is MORE BATTERIES (or heat). If you're really in a jam and have no way at all to get power outside you can get away with bringing the battery inside for the night and reinstalling in the morning/after it warms up. But what you really need to do is go buy a long rear end extension cord and leave it in the car.
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Nov 11, 2012 21:39
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