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Xovaan posted:It's a good thing I don't have mirrors. Then yes, they will fit, they are meant to fit over the barkbusters that tusk also makes, so they are big.
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Oct 22, 2012 23:24
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I have a Ninja 250 and I think I did about 2k miles since my first oil change. It's a 2002 I bought with 13k already on it. I was going to ride it to work, but I couldn't see any oil in the sight glass. After I did the change, I only drained out .6 liters! It's supposed to have 1.89. I've never noticed a leak, but I haven't really been closely looking. What kind of damage could I have caused by having such low oil? The old filter had no metal shavings in it, and the bike never ran hot. I will continue to monitor the oil level. And what could have caused this besides a leak? I do run it very hard, because it's pretty drat slow otherwise.
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Oct 23, 2012 00:26
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Yeah, every courier in London (the last word on what works and what doesn't in poo poo weather) uses those sort of hand mitts (normally the generic Oxford ones) with summer gloves underneath. My completely unrelated question: How would one go about painting a shock absorber spring? I kinda want to go for something a bit stiffer on the rear of the Shiver and Nitron (as recommended in this forum and just about everywhere else) look brilliant but that fruity turquoise colour will just look loving *awful* given how prominent the shock is on the Shiver. I'm guessing that they're powder-coated at the factory - my stock one appears to be - but stripping the shock and sending it off to be re-coated will cost a shitload. Could I get away with just using acrylic paint (as it should be flexible enough to not crack when the shock moves)? Never tried it over posder-coat, I'm guessing that it wouldn't work without being sanded and primed.
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Oct 23, 2012 00:29
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250s burn oil like nuts if you ride regularly at higher RPMs. I tend to check mine weekly. Rod bearing failure typically comes first when these engines are starved, so if it's not making any strange noises and running fine, you should be ok.
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Oct 23, 2012 00:30
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blue squares posted:I have a Ninja 250 and I think I did about 2k miles since my first oil change. It's a 2002 I bought with 13k already on it. I was going to ride it to work, but I couldn't see any oil in the sight glass. After I did the change, I only drained out .6 liters! It's supposed to have 1.89. I've never noticed a leak, but I haven't really been closely looking. Do you see any smoke from the exhaust? Especially on start up
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Oct 23, 2012 00:30
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Never tried it over posder-coat, I'm guessing that it wouldn't work without being sanded and primed. You'd definitely have to sand down to the bare metal to powder coat. Powder coating is a plastic or possibly ceramic powder that you adhere to the surface using static cling, and then bake in place. Harbor Freight or maybe Summit Racing sells a not-too-expensive powder coating kit, but for a really nice finish you'd probably have to send it off to a professional.
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Oct 23, 2012 00:32
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Re: keeping your mitts warm, I just bought myself some grip warmers a couple weeks ago because I was NOT going to let myself suffer like I did last year. I live in Colorado and leave for work at 6 am, so it gets god damned cold to say the least. It's only about a 15 minute ride, doing about 50 most of the way, but my fingers were completely numb by the time I got to work last year wearing my only pair of gloves. I think I rocked my snowboarding gloves a couple times, but the input was worse than my fingers being all numb. So I got some Oxford grip warmers, they're pretty much just heating pads with velcro that wrap around the grips. I didn't want to go to all the trouble of gluing new grips on, these I can just take off when I don't need them. They roast my hands, it feels like putting them on the engine, but at least I don't have to be stopped to do it. And as has been said before, they don't do poo poo against the wind. I'll still probably be happy with these for a couple more years, compared to last year I would probably be happy with anything.
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Oct 23, 2012 00:38
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Safety Dance posted:You'd definitely have to sand down to the bare metal to powder coat. Powder coating is a plastic or possibly ceramic powder that you adhere to the surface using static cling, and then bake in place. Harbor Freight or maybe Summit Racing sells a not-too-expensive powder coating kit, but for a really nice finish you'd probably have to send it off to a professional. Yeah I'm talking about painting over a powder coat, not re-coating (which I'd get done by a pro, definitely). Actually, this has reminded me about my sisters boyfriend mentioning that he knew a guy that knew a guy who could do powder-coating for cheap as long as you wanted black (which will be fine by me) and didn't mind waiting for him to be working alone on the night shift at the factory - and I quite like the idea of bits for my flaky Italian bike being coated along with parts for very high-end German cars...
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Oct 23, 2012 01:00
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marauderthirty posted:Re: keeping your mitts warm, I just bought myself some grip warmers a couple weeks ago because I was NOT going to let myself suffer like I did last year. I live in Colorado and leave for work at 6 am, so it gets god damned cold to say the least. It's only about a 15 minute ride, doing about 50 most of the way, but my fingers were completely numb by the time I got to work last year wearing my only pair of gloves. I think I rocked my snowboarding gloves a couple times, but the input was worse than my fingers being all numb. So I got some Oxford grip warmers, they're pretty much just heating pads with velcro that wrap around the grips. I didn't want to go to all the trouble of gluing new grips on, these I can just take off when I don't need them. They roast my hands, it feels like putting them on the engine, but at least I don't have to be stopped to do it. And as has been said before, they don't do poo poo against the wind. I'll still probably be happy with these for a couple more years, compared to last year I would probably be happy with anything. One really good piece of advice for keeping your hands warm is making sure your core temperature is kept up - putting an additional layer or two on your torso or (particularly) your legs will have a surprisingly noticeable effect on keeping your hands warm too.
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Oct 23, 2012 01:02
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I'm trying out 365 riding and today it was a nice cold rain the entire day (Except when I left for work). While riding I noticed that I could see my breath inside the helmet. Should I consider getting a mask or something? I've already been thinking about getting one as my glasses fog up (cat crap does nothing for it) unless the visor is cracked..
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Oct 23, 2012 02:11
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I can still see my breath in the helmet with a mask on, but if you get a mask to run with the visor cracked, it'll probably solve your issue. Off topic, this makes me think of when I commuted in the winter with an open-face and no neoprene. So glad I switched up to a full face.
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Oct 23, 2012 02:22
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Ashex posted:I'm trying out 365 riding and today it was a nice cold rain the entire day (Except when I left for work). While riding I noticed that I could see my breath inside the helmet. Should I consider getting a mask or something? I've already been thinking about getting one as my glasses fog up (cat crap does nothing for it) unless the visor is cracked.. Pinlock visor, a thin and strong balaclava tucked into your jacket, and a chin skirt for your helmet will help you a lot. This combination has helped me to temperatures below freezing in the morning when I was chipping thick layers of ice off of my bike's gauges to read them.
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Oct 23, 2012 02:53
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Then yes, they will fit, they are meant to fit over the barkbusters that tusk also makes, so they are big. Just ordered! Thanks man. 
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Oct 23, 2012 02:56
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So, this morning I found that my rear brake on my DRZ400 is stuck in the engaged position. The piston is pressing the pad onto the disk, but it won't retract. It seems like the brake lever and all that is working fine, just the piston won't return to the not braking position. I'm not sure how this happened, since it seemed to be working fine last time I rode it a couple days ago. Any ideas for fixing it? I'm not really sure where to start. Also here is a picture: 
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Oct 23, 2012 02:57
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That looks pretty normal to me, is it dragging hard? The pad should float a bit, pretty flush with the rotor.
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Oct 23, 2012 03:00
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Is it locking up the rear wheel as if the brake is engaged or just scraping along the disc?
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Oct 23, 2012 03:05
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It's not locking the rear wheel, but it's applying enough pressure that it takes extra effort to move (push by hand) the bike and I felt like the handling was off as well.
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Oct 23, 2012 03:08
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Are they new pads? (They look pretty new from the picture?) Did you remember to bed them in? If you've done that, I'd take it off and see how easy it is to push the piston back in and bleed it to make sure there's no air in the lines. If it's nigh on impossible to push the piston back in the brake might be seized or something. (I'm no expert, I'm just working off what I had to do for the front brake of my FZR that I'm rebuilding).
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Oct 23, 2012 03:13
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It's not a new pad, it has over 4k miles on it at least. I didn't install them though, the previous owner did, but they have been working for me the last 4k miles. I guess I'll take it off and see if I can push the piston back in, but I was hoping there was something else I could try first. It seems weird that it just happened suddenly. Edit: It seems stuck. I guess I'll have to take it apart 
Resource fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Oct 23, 2012 |
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Oct 23, 2012 03:39
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If you've got 4k miles on that pad, it's not stuck. It's normal for the pads to drag slightly. Easiest test is to feel the temperature of the disk, take it around the block, get it up to speed, don't use the rear brake, come back to the garage. Touch the disk (carefully). If it's hot, you have a problem. If it's the same temp as it was when you left, you're fine.
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Oct 23, 2012 04:08
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Ok, going to run this science test now. Test Aborted: I was rolling it out of the garage when I noticed the rear tire was flat. That would explain the poor handling and it being hard to move. I don't know how I missed it this morning, but it's certainly more flat now that it was earlier. Thanks for the help everyone, I guess I just have to fix the rear tire, hopefully it's just a puncture or something easy to fix. Resource fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Oct 23, 2012 |
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Oct 23, 2012 04:10
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Xovaan posted:Pinlock visor, a thin and strong balaclava tucked into your jacket, and a chin skirt for your helmet will help you a lot. This combination has helped me to temperatures below freezing in the morning when I was chipping thick layers of ice off of my bike's gauges to read them. I was going to wear my wifes gator to protect my neck, but I've got a velcro face mask that may help. It hasn't gotten to the point where I need a balaclava but it's close, I'll start shopping around for one (pity I didn't think of this before, could have gotten one cheap off season).
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Oct 23, 2012 04:18
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Oh good, the leak seems to be right at the fill valve. I also have no idea how to fix a tubeless tire with a leak there. How does that happen? I guess I'll have to replace it and that means removing the tire... I've never done that before either! Woo adventure... I now have more nonfunctional motorcycles than functional. Resource fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Oct 23, 2012 |
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Oct 23, 2012 04:37
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Resource posted:Oh good, the leak seems to be right at the fill valve. I also have no idea how to fix a tubeless tire with a leak there. How does that happen? Check that the valve core is in tight. Otherwise, you're going to need to replace the valve stem assembly. Some of them push in, some of them are are secured with a nut.
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Oct 23, 2012 04:41
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This one is secured with a nut, but it still seems to leak after I tightened it up. Sounds like I need a new one.
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Oct 23, 2012 04:52
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New rider here! Twice now, I've had really stupid zero-speed parking lot tip-overs (this is across several months). Afterward, my motorbike had its oil pressure and temp lights lit while running - just for that ride. Also, the latter time, it wouldn't start up until I choked it, and then I rode it home easy (only another mile) with pressure/temp lights lit. Questions: 1. I don't know how these sensors work. Are the lights going on because when the bike tipped, hot oil touched the sensor when it otherwise wouldn't have? 2. Is this a "false reading" due to the physical tip-over moving hot oil to the sensors, or is it bad to run my bike after a tip-over?
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Oct 23, 2012 04:54
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^^^^^ Sounds like the lights light when the tipover is triggered. If you drop it again, try cycling it on and off to see if things go away. Resource posted:This one is secured with a nut, but it still seems to leak after I tightened it up. Sounds like I need a new one. If that's a stock DRZ400SM, the wheels aren't tubeless.
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Oct 23, 2012 04:55
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Z3n posted:^^^^^ Sounds like the lights light when the tipover is triggered. If you drop it again, try cycling it on and off to see if things go away. The first time, I did turn it off and on several times and the lights stayed lit. This latest time, when it wouldn't start, I did turn the key on and off several times by it wouldn't start up until I choked it, after which it hesitated for about 2 seconds, then revved up to the typical really fast revving of a warmed up, choked idle. Then I un-choked and it seemed fine, other than the lights being lit. After that, I didn't risk turning it off again.
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Oct 23, 2012 05:03
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alnilam posted:The first time, I did turn it off and on several times and the lights stayed lit. The oil pressure light being on is generally a problem, but if the bike is still running without any bad noises, it's probably ok.
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Oct 23, 2012 06:02
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Anyone have thoughts on if the A123 bankruptcy is going to affect LiFePO3 battery supply? I know Shorais come from somewhere else but I've been eyeballing a Antigravitybatteries.com unit for a bit and I'm pretty sure they use the A123 cells.
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Oct 23, 2012 10:06
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alnilam posted:The first time, I did turn it off and on several times and the lights stayed lit. What sort of bike is it? Not wanting to start after a tip-over is pretty typical for a carbed bike. The carb float doesn't work properly on its side, so too much fuel gets into the carb. In my experience, letting it drain for a few minutes gets it at the right level, and starting with the choke helps burn extra fuel. As to the lights, I don't know.
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Oct 23, 2012 11:11
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Snowdens Secret posted:Anyone have thoughts on if the A123 bankruptcy is going to affect LiFePO3 battery supply? I know Shorais come from somewhere else but I've been eyeballing a Antigravitybatteries.com unit for a bit and I'm pretty sure they use the A123 cells. Not unless the chapter 11 goes badly wrong. Especially if the buyer's DIP lending has been approved by the court, the sale of the battery business should be a slam dunk. Barring some very aggrieved junior secured creditors with money to burn, anyway. What i am saying is buy your pimp battery.
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Oct 23, 2012 12:58
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Safety Dance posted:What sort of bike is it? Not wanting to start after a tip-over is pretty typical for a carbed bike. The carb float doesn't work properly on its side, so too much fuel gets into the carb. In my experience, letting it drain for a few minutes gets it at the right level, and starting with the choke helps burn extra fuel. It's a vulcan 500. A carbed bike, yes. When you say drained, do you mean actual drain screw, or just letting it sit upright a few minutes?
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Oct 23, 2012 13:15
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alnilam posted:It's a vulcan 500. A carbed bike, yes. Letting it sit upright for a few minutes. Your carb(s) has an overflow hose. Not that I recommend it, but if you knock your bike back over and pick it back up, you should notice a little bit of fuel dribbling out from the carb area.
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Oct 23, 2012 13:51
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Xovaan posted:Just ordered! Thanks man. For $16 its hard to go wrong with those. Here they are on my DRZ, just to give you an idea of size and fitment, complete with holes punched in them for the mirrors. 
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Oct 23, 2012 14:11
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Thanks for that, I was having trouble visualizing them in action.
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Oct 23, 2012 16:26
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Sweet mittens, tough guy.
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Oct 23, 2012 16:33
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alnilam posted:It's a vulcan 500. A carbed bike, yes. Were both drops on the same side? Do you know what side your oil pump is on? Or indeed where your oil uptake is? Because air getting into your oil pump will cause a false-positive low pressure indication (this is assuming the bike was running when it went down) on some bikes..
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Oct 23, 2012 16:44
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My adjustment bolts on my rear fork keep working themselves loose and the tire works its way forward popping my chain off. Is there something i need to check or should I just replace them both?
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Oct 23, 2012 17:36
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There's a lock nut on each side and you're using them, right?
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Oct 23, 2012 17:50
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