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goddamnedtwisto posted:Were both drops on the same side? Do you know what side your oil pump is on? Or indeed where your oil uptake is? Because air getting into your oil pump will cause a false-positive low pressure indication (this is assuming the bike was running when it went down) on some bikes.. Both tips were to the right side, and I'm not sure where my pump or intake is (the fill cap and sight glass are on the right, though). Time 1, it was not on when it tipped. Time 2, it was, but was promptly turned off until I righted it. Motorcycles are heavy  wtf do people with 1.2L engines do in a tip? Are they stronger than me?
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Oct 23, 2012 18:00
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Your pickup is probably on the left side so it picks up oil while on the side stand, which means your oil pump probably picked up a bunch of air on a right-side drop. It's probably fine if it's running normal. Righting a bike is easier than you think. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4MPyX0QCYw
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Oct 23, 2012 18:10
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There's a strategy to picking up heavy bikes. Face away from the bike, with your back to the seat, crouching, one hand on the grip, the other somewhere on the tail. Then using mostly your legs, you lift and walk backwards. Here's a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4MPyX0QCYw Edit: Beaten hard. By the same video. 
epswing fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Oct 23, 2012 |
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Oct 23, 2012 18:10
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clutchpuck posted:There's a lock nut on each side and you're using them, right? The big Fucker on the right side of the wheel hub that has a.cotter pin?
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Oct 23, 2012 18:11
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Not the one I am talking about. When you adjust the chain tension, there should be a bolt you turn on each side to push or pull (depending on configuration) the axle back. There should be a nut on each of these axle puller bolts that you use to lock it in place. If you don't tighten the lock nuts, what you describe happening will happen.
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Oct 23, 2012 18:21
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clutchpuck posted:Not the one I am talking about. When you adjust the chain tension, there should be a bolt you turn on each side to push or pull (depending on configuration) the axle back. There should be a nut on each of these axle puller bolts that you use to lock it in place. I have covers on the end of my forks and there is no nut there, the bolt just turns into the covers. 85 gs550es
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Oct 23, 2012 18:26
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Snowdens Secret posted:Anyone have thoughts on if the A123 bankruptcy is going to affect LiFePO3 battery supply? I know Shorais come from somewhere else but I've been eyeballing a Antigravitybatteries.com unit for a bit and I'm pretty sure they use the A123 cells. Well, they can make it through an 11 as noted, but I would not run out to buy the battery until that solidified, to make sure any warranty claims remain post-petition. Also, those anti-grav units look sweet, but seem more expensive than Shorai. Comparing the Shorai I just installed to their offering, the closest match is their small case 8-cell with 240 CCA and 9.7 Ah - $179. My Shorai has 210 CCA and 14 Ah, and cost about $140 on Amazon. HTH
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Oct 23, 2012 19:01
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Flikken posted:I have covers on the end of my forks and there is no nut there, the bolt just turns into the covers. 85 gs550es Is there a nut further up the bolt, maybe after it passes through the axle carrier?
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Oct 23, 2012 19:23
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clutchpuck posted:Is there a nut further up the bolt, maybe after it passes through the axle carrier? I'll look again when i get home, I really don't enjoy putting my chain on in parking lots.
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Oct 23, 2012 19:27
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Flikken posted:I'll look again when i get home, I really don't enjoy putting my chain on in parking lots. Your rear wheel fiche shows the adjuster bolts:  Looks like #26 threads into #25. Cannot tell from the exploded diagram where that e-clip (#27) goes though.
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Oct 23, 2012 19:51
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Tamir Lenk posted:Your rear wheel fiche shows the adjuster bolts: Thanks, that lateral locking bolt about 8" up on the fork is what i should be looking for then if I'm reading the diagram right?
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Oct 23, 2012 19:59
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Part #26 is the adjuster bolt.
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Oct 23, 2012 20:04
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Z3n posted:Part #26 is the adjuster bolt. now i get it.
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Oct 23, 2012 20:17
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Is there any way to stop my chain from getting ridiculously filthy after just a couple miles on a gravel road? I use the teflon spray lube usually now.
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Oct 23, 2012 20:43
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Xovaan posted:Just ordered! Thanks man. I have used the Tusk mitts, but I am not sure they will work well without barkbusters or something to keep them off your levers. At 65mph that fabric is going to press back, and it's going to be all over the place at lower speeds.
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Oct 23, 2012 20:49
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Tucano Urbano seem to be the most popular grip muffs I see around the parking lot at work. They're mostly found on scooters, but that includes maxi-scoots, so they'd work on a full size bike. I think I've seen them on people's winter hacks as well.
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Oct 23, 2012 21:02
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Linedance posted:Tucano Urbano seem to be the most popular grip muffs I see around the parking lot at work. They're mostly found on scooters, but that includes maxi-scoots, so they'd work on a full size bike. I think I've seen them on people's winter hacks as well. Whoa those are awesome, thank you for posting that. Genuinely innovative design right there.
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Oct 23, 2012 22:14
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alnilam posted:Motorcycles are heavy This brings to mind the first thing i ever learned about motorcycles, back as a teenager: "Never ride a bike you can't upright on your own. Otherwise it's gonna be a long walk back home."
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Oct 23, 2012 23:51
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Get giant highway bars/guards. Picking up my r1100gs was easy.
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Oct 23, 2012 23:57
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Tamir Lenk posted:Well, they can make it through an 11 as noted, but I would not run out to buy the battery until that solidified, to make sure any warranty claims remain post-petition. They don't have to make it, the 363 sale just needs to be approved, and the buyer's DIP funding plus the petition itself makes that fairly likely. You don't generally offer to buy a mfg business, cause it to file a bankruptcy petition and then refuse to honour existing warranties, it tends to piss off everyone downstream.  well I mean I would, but then I post on something awful.com
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Oct 23, 2012 23:57
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Z3n posted:If that's a stock DRZ400SM, the wheels aren't tubeless. I guess they were put on by the previous owner, they are ContiForce SM tires, which sounds pretty rad. They say tubeless on them, so hopefully they don't have tubes in them. I'm not 100% sure what tools I need for this change... just a bunch of tire irons?
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Oct 24, 2012 00:14
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Tamir Lenk posted:Well, they can make it through an 11 as noted, but I would not run out to buy the battery until that solidified, to make sure any warranty claims remain post-petition. It's more that I'm wanting to put off getting one until after the holidays, it's money I can use elsewhere and it'll be too cold in winter to really ride aggressively enough to notice the weight change. I'm less concerned about warranty as I am about straight availability if I wait. It won't kill me to stay stock and they've got an ADVRider thread I'm sure they'll post on if there's issues.
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Oct 24, 2012 00:47
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Resource posted:I guess they were put on by the previous owner, they are ContiForce SM tires, which sounds pretty rad. They say tubeless on them, so hopefully they don't have tubes in them. The tires don't make it tubeless, the rim does. Spokes = air go out.
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Oct 24, 2012 00:47
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Resource posted:I guess they were put on by the previous owner, they are ContiForce SM tires, which sounds pretty rad. They say tubeless on them, so hopefully they don't have tubes in them. Changing tires (and tubes) sucks if you've never done it before, but it can be done with just a bunch of tire irons and something to break the bead.
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Oct 24, 2012 01:31
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MotoMind posted:The tires don't make it tubeless, the rim does. Spokes = air go out. Ooh... ok. I only feel kinda stupid now. I have some tire removing things in the mail, so I'm going to see how that works. I'll try to put aside a lot of time for my first attempt. Thanks for the help 
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Oct 24, 2012 02:48
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MotoMind posted:I have used the Tusk mitts, but I am not sure they will work well without barkbusters or something to keep them off your levers. At 65mph that fabric is going to press back, and it's going to be all over the place at lower speeds. Luckily there's very little wind resistance on my handles due to my fairing-- it's just enough to make the tips of my fingers go numb. This was a concern for me but for $25 it's worth a shot. Worst case scenario I end up putting bark guards on the ends with the mitts anyway. Really dumb question: Of the twelve thousand RPMs my Bandit has, what is the optimal range to cruise at? Peak torque is at 3k, but is there any risk of danger to the engine for cruising at such low RPM?
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Oct 24, 2012 07:11
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As long as the engine isn't lugging at that rpm (doubt it would on a Bandit12) it'll be fine. Hell, my GSXR1000 will pull cleanly from 3k and it's certainly not as grunty as a Bandit.
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Oct 24, 2012 09:06
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Xovaan posted:Luckily there's very little wind resistance on my handles due to my fairing-- it's just enough to make the tips of my fingers go numb. This was a concern for me but for $25 it's worth a shot. Worst case scenario I end up putting bark guards on the ends with the mitts anyway. As long as its running smoothly at whatever rpm, its happy. Getting waaaay down there (like idle speed) will give you oil supply issues, but 3K is fine. I found mine really smoothed out over 5K, and it seemed happiest at or above that, but it never had any issues running slower than that.
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Oct 24, 2012 14:42
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Thanks guys! What about for maximizing mileage? Is there any real difference between ~3k and ~5k or are they negligibly the same?
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Oct 24, 2012 19:57
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Mileage is more about how far open the throttle is than where the bike is revving, in general. That said mine seems to get identical mileage no matter how I ride it so I dunno.
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Oct 24, 2012 20:17
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Xovaan posted:Thanks guys! What about for maximizing mileage? Is there any real difference between ~3k and ~5k or are they negligibly the same? Try cruising each speed for a tank or two each.
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Oct 24, 2012 20:21
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Xovaan posted:Thanks guys! What about for maximizing mileage? Is there any real difference between ~3k and ~5k or are they negligibly the same? Mine got better mileage the more it was spun up. I think people are tempted to run them at lower RPMs since they are so drat torquey, but dont forget, its a GSXR 1100 at heart, and is plenty capable of revving.
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Oct 24, 2012 20:41
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My bike tells me what my MPG is and there's sweet spots all over the place. Don't forget that engine speed isn't the only factor - even if that extra 2k is more efficient the increase in road speed and therefore drag might be enough to drop the mpg - or conversely that the extra speed might be sufficient to get you an extra mile or two.
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Oct 24, 2012 20:45
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The bike is just so ridiculous that I never really had a need to keep it above 4k, because it accelerated just as fast as my SV casually rolling on the throttle from idle. The previous owner put the GSXR1100 exhaust cam and the 1216 kit in it to increase the bottom end a hilarious amount and it really shows. Looks like I'm keeping it around 5k for now and seeing how it affects my mileage. I'm definitely okay with this. Thanks again for the input guys!
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Oct 24, 2012 20:48
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On a naked / bikini faired bike like the B12 your body positioning probably makes more of a diff for fuel economy than a thousand RPM here or there, so shoot for a speed where you can get in a comfortable but functional tuck and where the engine isn't uncomfortably buzzy. This is probably common sense but you can tune your position for aero by holding throttle steady and moving around and seeing whether the bike speeds up or slows down.
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Oct 25, 2012 04:13
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I'm looking to identify the following bike: *pics removed* All I know is that it's a BMW. astrollinthepork fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Oct 25, 2012 |
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Oct 25, 2012 13:31
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K1600 ?
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Oct 25, 2012 13:38
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Nah, much older than that. I don't have an exact year, but it's something like 1996-2002.
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Oct 25, 2012 13:41
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An older K bike then? K100 or something? That was my first thought but Wikipedia didn't look exactly like it.
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Oct 25, 2012 14:05
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Shimrod posted:An older K bike then? K100 or something? That was my first thought but Wikipedia didn't look exactly like it. After finding a somewhat decent resource, it looks like a 99 R1100RT. 
astrollinthepork fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Oct 25, 2012 |
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Oct 25, 2012 14:27
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