|
Fly posted:A provider of what? Internet service? No, of VPN services. I'd like to get around content blocks for regional content, as suggested by Tapedump. Does anyone here use a VPN service that they are happy with?
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2012 17:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 13:38 |
|
|
I'm looking for info on the Netgear R6200 router. I won one in a raffle last night, and I've never owned a Netgear branded router before so i'm not familiar with any quirks or oddities they might have. Owned a bunch of Linksys stuff over the years, currently using a Linksys E2000 for myself and my mom has an exceedingly old WRT54G (hardware v1.1  ). I'd most likely replace her 54G with this thing. Its features are massive overkill for what she does (1 PC via Ethernet & 1 iPad) but at least it would have security that's not a combo of plain WEP + no SSID broadcast + MAC white-listing  .
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2012 00:09
|
|
|
I recently moved into a new apartment, and I suddenly have wireless networking questions now that everything isn't immediately adjacent! I have: a fancy new cable modem with built-in wireless an older 802.11g wireless router running Tomato a desktop PC far away from the cable modem that I would like to keep connected to the internet a PS3 far away from the PC, but near the cable modem that I would like to stream to from the PC As it stands, I have the Tomato router acting as a bridge for the desktop, but this is slow and unreliable, so I have had a couple of thoughts: 1) Buy a newer 802.11n router to replace the Tomato 2) Buy TWO 802.11n routers to replace the Tomato and relieve the cable modem of its routing duties 3) Buy an 802.11n router to relieve the modem, but keep the Tomato as is. 1 and 2 should lead to the fastest speeds, but is there anything else I need to consider? Is it time to just suck it up and buy two WNR3500Ls to bathe in the signal? e: From a post a few pages back, I've seen some good reviews of this USB wireless adapter - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WBX9C6/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00 Maybe another good way to go? The Leck fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Oct 23, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2012 16:20
|
|
|
tronester posted:I'm using Cox premiere home internet service. My speeds are fine, though the monthly data cap is only 250 gigabytes. When I had Cox service, my experience is that the data cap is very soft. I'd routinely exceed the allowance by 50 gigs or so each month and they never said boo. They rolled out the caps and the monitoring tool earlier this year in my area, and sent an email that said "We have data caps now. Use this tool and don't exceed them please kthxbye" Basically I'm saying that regardless of what the tool says, I'd be shocked if they actually ever nag you about exceeding the cap.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2012 18:07
|
|
|
I just moved into a new apartment and my internet options were pretty limited (Orlando, FL). Came down to either brighthouse or centurylink DSL, went with CLink as it's $30 a month for a 10mbps connection as opposed to brighthouse's $54. I didn't like the fees associated with using their modem/router so it's time to pick up the basics of home networking. 1 computer hooked up directly via cable, 1 laptop and 1 PS3 accessing via wireless. I'm trying to find the most cost friendly method of accomplishing this. Can I get any advice on what exactly to look for? Should I get a modem AND a router or just get a modem with wireless capabilities? Are there any particular modems and/or routers that are recommended for those of us on a budget?
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2012 21:50
|
|
|
kingcobweb posted:I bought a new Netgear WNR3500Lv2, plugged it in, the internet worked, and I changed the firmware to a Tomato build (yes, I made sure it was for v2). The router rebooted and I could go into 192.168.1.1 to see the Tomato configuration screen, but I couldn't get any internet. I rebooted it again, and now the power light stays amber, I can't even go into the config, and it puts out a wireless network I can't connect to. What did I do wrong and how do I fix it
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2012 23:27
|
|
|
The Leck posted:I recently moved into a new apartment, and I suddenly have wireless networking questions now that everything isn't immediately adjacent! I'm sure you are going to get a plethera of answers here, as usual, your mileage may vary and all that. 1. Does your fancy new cable modem do N? 2. What is the path between the wireless near your inet connection and your PC bridge? I'm not sure what the official specs are, but N has not worked for me with obstacles like walls in the way nearly as well as b/g. IMO, using routers to bridge would be a better solution than using a wireless USB adapter but thats just me. If you are sure a cable isnt possible between the PC area and the cable modem area, I would likely aim for getting a clear LOS between the PC router (configured as a bridge/access point) and the cable modem area wireless. If you don't have clear LOS at the moment, I'd suggest finding a way to make that happen by using enough CAT5 to move the PC area access point until that happens. I have no idea what kind of construction you are in, but walls and obstruction can seriously gently caress with your signal especially if work wasn't done 100% to code. If you find that changing the location of the bridge/access point does improve throughput, I'd then look at upgrading equipment as desired. N is range sensitive, so if you cant get your access point within a reasonable range that lessens any benefit N would offer you. e: If you dont mind paying bux to replace equipment fairly often, you can also pump up the wireless antenna strength in your Tomato based bridge. This will reduce the lifespan of the bridge, but may improve your connection. (I'm assuming Tomato can do that, I have only used DD-WRT). CrushedWill fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Oct 24, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2012 01:06
|
|
|
calandryll posted:Does anyone know if there is a VPN thread, didn't see one so I'll just ask here. Installed TomatoUSB on my E2000, got VPN working and everything is great, kinda. My home network is my NAS and Desktop, and then I have a laptop that I want to connect with the VPN. My NAS (Netgear DUO) can be seen fine over the VPN. If I try to browse my desktop I can not connect to it. But if I use VNC to connect with the same IP it connects fine and instantly. Any idea why this may be the case? Figured out my problem, sorta, the Windows machine firewall was causing problems. If I turn it off it works beautifully. I added exceptions to it, but are not at my laptop right now. I would prefer not to turn off my firewall.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2012 02:04
|
|
|
The Leck posted:I recently moved into a new apartment, and I suddenly have wireless networking questions now that everything isn't immediately adjacent! The wireless on built in modems is usually crap as is. If you buy an N router to use as a bridge and the modem's wireless is g, its still going to be slow because it doesn't do N. Each end has to support 802.11N to get any benefit, and for streaming you really want 802.11N.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2012 04:07
|
|
|
I have two Windows 7 computers on a wifi network. I've connected them through a switch and they're both assigned private 169.254.x.x addresses. I can ping and connect to them through those addresses, but the computer names still resolve to the IP for the wifi interface. What do I need to do to get them to only see each other through the ethernet connection?
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2012 07:02
|
|
|
Do tp-link wifi PCI cards have poo poo windows drivers by any chance? I've just bought a N router (asus N16) and the drat wifi card refuses to work in 802.11n even though it is suppose to be supported. I changed the wifi router to only work in 802.11n and windows will not connect at all. If I reboot to a linux live cd, it will connect just fine and work perfectly. So the hardware works, just not in windows.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2012 16:06
|
|
|
quadratic posted:private 169.254.x.x addresses You've got some sort of connection issue going on here. Routers don't give out addresses in the 169.254.x.x range. That range of addresses is reserved for when a computer or device is set to obtain an IP automatically, and fails to obtain one. Pretty much all home routers give out IPs in the 192.168.x.x range. Sounds like you have something weird going if you have both an Ethernet switch and a WiFi router in the mix. If the Ethernet switch isn't connected to an Internet or DHCP source that would explain the 169.x IPs.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2012 16:25
|
|
|
MREBoy posted:You've got some sort of connection issue going on here. Routers don't give out addresses in the 169.254.x.x range. That range of addresses is reserved for when a computer or device is set to obtain an IP automatically, and fails to obtain one. Pretty much all home routers give out IPs in the 192.168.x.x range. Maybe I should have been clearer. Both are connected to the internet (and other devices in the house) through wifi. However, I'd like a faster connection between these particular computers, so I've connected them with ethernet through a switch. I just want these two computers to default to using the ethernet connection when talking to each other.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2012 17:25
|
|
|
I picked up the Asus RT-N66U yesterday, updated the firmware and had it up an running in no time at all. The only thing I can't figure out is how to Remote Connect to my PC. WIth my old Linksys I would just use port forwarding to 3389, but it doesn't seem to work with this one. Am I missing something obvious here? A coworker told me to look at UPnP but I don't understand how that would work with RDC.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2012 01:02
|
|
|
VincesUndies posted:I picked up the Asus RT-N66U yesterday, updated the firmware and had it up an running in no time at all. The only thing I can't figure out is how to Remote Connect to my PC. WIth my old Linksys I would just use port forwarding to 3389, but it doesn't seem to work with this one. Am I missing something obvious here? A coworker told me to look at UPnP but I don't understand how that would work with RDC. Only suggestion off hand is to make sure you are forwarding both UDP and TCP 3389. E1: Found this link for a 56U, not sure if the BIOS is the same as the N66U, but it pretty much confirms what I said (entries for both UDP and TCP). http://portforward.com/english/routers/port_forwarding/Asus/RT-N56U/Remote_Desktop.htm E2: Not sure why, but some people have had better luck using different browsers while accessing their router. Not sure why this would have any effect (given router settings are stored on the router), but it might be worth a shot. CrushedWill fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Oct 25, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2012 01:56
|
|
|
CrushedWill posted:Only suggestion off hand is to make sure you are forwarding both UDP and TCP 3389. Edit: still not working. This shouldn't be this difficult VincesUndies fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Oct 25, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2012 02:36
|
|
|
VincesUndies posted:That's what I was doing. The only thing I'm not sure about : what do I put as my Local IP. It's the IPv4 address right? The local IP is the LAN IP address of the device to which the port forwarded packets should be forwarded too. Lousy sentence, but if you had two devices on your network: 192.168.1.3 <- computer 192.168.1.9 <- xbox you would presumably have two entries in the Local IP drop down box and would select 192.168.1.3 (unless you wanted your remote desktop requests forwarded to your xbox).
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2012 03:08
|
|
|
I got that far but I just tried Telnetting to port 3389 on that IP and it's not working so it seems something is blocking the connection. I disabled the firewall on the router but that didn't fix it either. Edit: apparently I'm just an idiot who doesn't remember basic DOS commands. I was putting a colon before the port instead of a space! Edit 2: I can telnet to port 80 but not 3389. I can telnet to 3389 locally however. Bizarre. Edit 3: I think I'm going to return this tomorrow. Any recommendations on a new router to replace this pain in the rear end ASUS? VincesUndies fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Oct 25, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2012 03:20
|
|
|
EDIT: Whoops I didn't read back enough.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2012 04:41
|
|
|
quadratic posted:Maybe I should have been clearer. Both are connected to the internet (and other devices in the house) through wifi. However, I'd like a faster connection between these particular computers, so I've connected them with ethernet through a switch. You need to either add something to handle DHCP to your ethernet network (re: cable a port on the switch to your wireless router), or just give the ethernet adapters on the two machines static address that will line up, but not conflict, with the wireless network's DHCP scope. Example: If your wireless router (call it 192.168.1.1) is handing out addresses starting at 192.168.1.100 and is set to serve up to 50 addresses (common default), set the two machines' ethernet adapters to 192.168.1.200 and .201 (or anything higher than .150), subnet mask 255.255.255.0, gateway 192.168.1.1.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2012 05:21
|
|
|
Tapedump posted:It sounds like your wireless adapters are getting IP addresses assigned via the wireless router's DHCP. The ethernet adapters are not being assigned any IP addresses even though they are looking for one. I can do that, but won't setting the gateway to 192.168.1.1 mean all traffic will still go through the wireless router?
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2012 06:28
|
|
|
quadratic posted:I can do that, but won't setting the gateway to 192.168.1.1 mean all traffic will still go through the wireless router? The gateway is the location where packets heading off the local subnet go. If you have two hosts as described by tapedump (192.168.1.200 and 192.168.1.201), the gateway would not come into play. Assuming your router is functioning properly, and assuming you set the two hosts outside of the DHCP pool, and assuming your hosts are on the same subnet, they should be able to communicate directly with each other. If you keep both the wireless and ethernet ports active in your computers, you are then multihoming which gets sticky in a number of ways. In effect, you end up using both your computers as routers, and 1 mistake in the configuration can lead to a big headache and slower performance.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2012 07:03
|
|
|
CrushedWill posted:The gateway is the location where packets heading off the local subnet go. Oh, yeah, duh  CrushedWill posted:If you have two hosts as described by tapedump (192.168.1.200 and 192.168.1.201), the gateway would not come into play. Assuming your router is functioning properly, and assuming you set the two hosts outside of the DHCP pool, and assuming your hosts are on the same subnet, they should be able to communicate directly with each other. I'll give it a try. Thanks! edit: Do I need to change the "interface metric" values? quadratic fucked around with this message at 07:47 on Oct 25, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2012 07:32
|
|
|
quadratic posted:edit: Do I need to change the "interface metric" values? Use of an interface metric assume that multiple network connections are available on the host. If the wireless adapter is removed from the hosts (as I believe it should be given what you are trying to accomplish), you should be left with a single point to your network (ethernet) and the interface metric becomes irrelevant. So the short answer is no, no need to adjust.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2012 08:08
|
|
|
I have an unusual issue with my router and wireless adapters on my two computers. My router is a Buffalo WZR-HP-G300NH and my wireless adapters are the Rosewill RNX-180UBE adapters you can get off newegg for  . When I try to download something over wireless N speeds for a few minutes on either computer the wireless stops working on both the router and wireless adapter. I'm thinking either the adapter or the router is overheating but what are the chances both the router and wireless adapters are overheating? The router and adapters do get warm to the touch but not hot. And this problem has only cropped recently and it went away after forcing the router and/or the wireless adapters into wireless G mode but now its starting to occasionally flake even in wireless G mode. The router is out of warrany so if its the router, is the ASUS router listed in the OP for under $100 still recommended?
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2012 20:15
|
|
|
I'm sick of consumer routers. They always seem to have issues where under load they start having difficulty managing connections and everything slows to a crawl. My usual use pattern is to maybe have a torrent running on one computer and be using another to stream video from my NAS. Right now that's basically a sure fire way of making me have to reboot my router because it can't juggle the connections for whatever reason... D-Link dir 855 I think? I'm at work right now and can't recall the exact model. Anyway -- I want to redo my network with something that won't have problems taking whatever traffic I want to throw through it. No matter who I've tried -- Linksys, Netgear, D-Link, with or without custom firmware, I wind up having serious issues with connections getting dropped, the router getting overwhelmed, and requiring a reboot. I want a solid gigabit wired network with dual-band 5Ghz wireless N that will take any amount of traffic my handful of devices could push through it. where should I look?
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2012 15:15
|
|
|
ashgromnies posted:I want a solid gigabit wired network with dual-band 5Ghz wireless N that will take any amount of traffic my handful of devices could push through it. where should I look? RT-N66U
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2012 15:48
|
|
|
clockworx posted:RT-N66U What would be the closest Mikrotik RouterBoard competitor to RT-N66U and what would be more reliable and faster?
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2012 15:57
|
|
|
ashgromnies posted:What would be the closest Mikrotik RouterBoard competitor to RT-N66U and what would be more reliable and faster? Unfortunately, Mikrotik doesn't have a dual radio embedded solution. If dual radio in a single device is a must, I'd get an RB433GL, a case, and two radio cards. You'll also need suitable antennae and a power supply. Alternatively, you could get the RT-N66U (or any similar SOHO dual radio router) and use it as an AP paired with an RB750GL for routing and firewall. The best of both worlds, and honestly, probably the better option both from a cost and reliability standpoint, unless building it yourself is part of the fun. I've been using a WNDR3700/RB750GL combination for several months and it's been rock solid and more than fast enough. SamDabbers fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Oct 26, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2012 16:12
|
|
|
So here's an update on my attempts to get Remote Desktop working through my new RT-N66U. 1) Flashed the router with Shibby's Tomato firmware 2) Added port 3389 and my computer's internal IP to the port forwarding 3) Restarted by cable modem, router and PC to see if that would help. No dice! 4) Ran a port checker. It tells me port 3389 is blocked. 5) Changed the port for RDC from 3389 to 4489 in the registry 6) Changed port 3389 to 4489 in the port forwarding 7) Restarted EVERYTHING AGAIN! Nope! 8) Ran a port checker. It tells me port 4489 is blocked. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2012 18:00
|
|
|
SamDabbers posted:Unfortunately, Mikrotik doesn't have a dual radio embedded solution. If dual radio in a single device is a must, I'd get an RB433GL, a case, and two radio cards. You'll also need suitable antennae and a power supply. Ironically I work at a networking company. Everything we make is in the thousands of dollars at the extreme low end though, I have no idea about consumer stuff 
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2012 18:21
|
|
|
VincesUndies posted:So here's an update on my attempts to get Remote Desktop working through my new RT-N66U. Do you have access to another router that you can test the forwarding with? I'd be interested in finding out if it is indeed an issue with the router or if there is something else that might be going on.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2012 18:30
|
|
|
ashgromnies posted:What's the RB750 get you for routing versus just using the switch built into the Asus? They can do almost everything the multi-thousand dollar stuff does. IPSEC, VPNs, routing protocols, all manner of tunnels, complex firewall rules, IPv6 support, QoS, etc... They have demo units on the website that you can poke around if you want to check it out for yourself. Even if you don't need all of this stuff they are still stable set-and-forget systems. People do use this stuff to run larger scale networks and WISPs. The_Franz fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Oct 26, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2012 20:23
|
|
|
The_Franz posted:They can do almost everything the multi-thousand dollar stuff does. IPSEC, VPNs, routing protocols, all manner of tunnels, complex firewall rules, IPv6 support, QoS, etc... They have demo units on the website that you can poke around if you want to check it out for yourself.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2012 21:36
|
|
|
Looking for a really solid but not insanely priced: GigE switch (24 port), router, and 802.11N access point. Router and switch will be in my finished basement in a wire closet, the access point will be on the main floor for laptop/cell phones. Cat6 ran everywhere hardwired. Switch: TrendNET? Ubiquiti? (can anyone actually find their edgemax stuff for sale...?) Router: Everything now seems to come with wifi, is there some slick-rear end router with great features that doesn't have cost overhead for wifi stuff? Or should I roll my own? Access Point: RT-N66U? Something else?
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2012 21:47
|
|
|
ashgromnies posted:Yea but the ASUS has all that too is what I'm saying. Is it just not up for the job of doing wireless and wired routing simultaneously? The ASUS probably is perfectly fine as a router, especially being on the high end of currently available SOHO equipment. The Mikrotik is closer in features and flexibility to the multi-thousand-dollar enterprise/ISP-grade equipment, but if you aren't going to do anything fancy (e.g. OSPF, MPLS, complicated QoS config, IPsec, custom scripts) then you'll probably be well served by the ASUS with stock or third-party firmware. Either way, you can always decide to add a Mikrotik into the mix later if for some reason you're not satisfied with just the ASUS. Head over to the Mikrotik thread for more info on what they can do. SamDabbers fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Oct 26, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2012 21:48
|
|
|
mcsuede posted:Looking for a really solid but not insanely priced: GigE switch (24 port), router, and 802.11N access point... This is what I currently use in a very similar setup to what you described: Switch, router, and AP. Alternatively, this switch has similar specs (sans SFP ports), received good reviews, and is $50 less than the one I have. SamDabbers fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Oct 26, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2012 22:01
|
|
|
SamDabbers posted:This is what I currently use in a very similar setup to what you described: Switch, router, and AP Nice! I was looking at http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817111472 for the switch but it's hard to argue with procurve gear. mcsuede fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Oct 26, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2012 22:13
|
|
|
SamDabbers posted:The ASUS probably is perfectly fine as a router, especially being on the high end of currently available SOHO equipment. The Mikrotik is closer in features and flexibility to the multi-thousand-dollar enterprise/ISP-grade equipment, but if you aren't going to do anything fancy (e.g. OSPF, MPLS, complicated QoS config, IPsec, custom scripts) then you'll probably be well served by the ASUS with stock or third-party firmware. Either way, you can always decide to add a Mikrotik into the mix later if for some reason you're not satisfied with just the ASUS. Is Tomato useful for the Asus when using it as an AP or should I leave the stock firmware? What should my setup be? Modem -> Mikrotik -> WAN port on Asus? Then configure the Asus as an AP? Any other details I should watch out for when configuring? I do want to do QOS, mainly to prioritize web traffic over anything else going on. I assume it's easy to say like, port 80 and 443 are highest priority?
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2012 22:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 13:38 |
|
|
ashgromnies posted:What should my setup be? Modem -> Mikrotik -> WAN port on Asus? Then configure the Asus as an AP? If you are going to be using the ASUS as an access point, you should do the following: Modem -> Mikrotik -> ASUS LAN Port Plugging into the WAN port would force ASUS to route, and you'd end up with dual nat. I have no experience with Tomato, and I'm interested in what benefit replacing the firmware offers. I only upgraded my old Linksys with DD-WRT because I wanted to up my antenna signal strength. Also, the RN-N66U has four built in gigabit ethernet LAN ports, do you need more than that?
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2012 00:42
|
|