|
zundfolge posted:It's incredibly difficult to find interesting cars with manual transmissions in my area, though, so it was hard to ignore the voice in the back of my mind suggesting that it might be something simple. For what it's worth, the only SAAB that bested me was a '91 9000T with slightly more miles than this. After I fixed all of the "non-issues" (never, ever take the advice of an indy who is known to get liquored up before working on cars) over four months, the balance shaft literally came off on one side and fell in. I let someone tow it off for $500 just to get rid of the drat thing.  It could very well be simple, but given the 'going to take a couple of days' statement, I don't doubt that there are many gremlins lurking in this car. I would not start working on SAABs with this car. Wait.. I just gave sane advice. What the hell is wrong with me? Viggen fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Oct 1, 2012 |
#
?
Oct 1, 2012 16:48
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 09:13 |
|
|
 LIES! ALL LIES!
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2012 19:25
|
|
|
Petekill posted:I feel your pain, some monkey at a carwash broke the lockout in my 93. I never got around to finding a solution, I ended up selling the car a couple months later. I even told the guy to put it in reverse in order to get the key out, it didn't cross my mind that he'd have trouble getting it into reverse. Yeah, the solution is obviously to pull harder and harder until something gives. Thanks, any chance you can post the next few screens if they're still relevant? One of the tabs at the bottom of the stop is broken loose under the plastic ring around the shifter. I won't be able to replace the stop without removing the ring and there's no obvious simple way to do that. Bad pictures:   (The stop fits into the plastic ring at the top near the metal tab.)
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2012 23:32
|
|
|
Handsome Rob posted:I even told the guy to put it in reverse in order to get the key out, it didn't cross my mind that he'd have trouble getting it into reverse. Yeah, the solution is obviously to pull harder and harder until something gives. The next screens aren't directly applicable. This should help. E: Picture not showing here.. so apologies if duplicated. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2012 00:31
|
|
|
Viggen posted:
Here are a couple of pics of the guts of the latches. First one is the hand-release latch, second is the tool-release latch. http://imgur.com/a/rXlS0 The spring steel parts are just stamped/folded and are not super strong. One of them might have gotten deformed through wear or abuse and is binding up the mechanism. If it's the hand-release one, you can pull the plastic clip out and then try to press both sides in with more substantial tools. I can't see how the other one could be an issue because the headrest post is smooth until the last, single notch at maximum extension.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2012 01:46
|
|
|
Mario posted:Here are a couple of pics of the guts of the latches. First one is the hand-release latch, second is the tool-release latch. Thank you. This is/was most useful. That may be (part of) it. The plastic clips are in the passenger side, but there are no springs. There's only a bit of a metal recess on the opposite side with two small holes which I assumed were supposed to press and cause a release. I've managed to get the passenger side to go up nearly a full 1", but the drivers side won't even expose itself well enough for me to get to the finger release. So, I assume it's supposed to be those springs which catch? I have no idea why/how its even binding if this is the case.
|
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2012 16:11
|
|
|
Yes, the thick part of the spring section engages with the notches on the headrest post. The first picture shows some wear on the metal bit. It's bowed outward slightly; any more and it might not engage on the notches.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2012 02:10
|
|
|
Mario posted:Yes, the thick part of the spring section engages with the notches on the headrest post. The first picture shows some wear on the metal bit. It's bowed outward slightly; any more and it might not engage on the notches. Well pushing them with thin screwdrivers doesn't seem to work, ether. I got the passenger side to lift up approx 1", and return. That is as far as it gives, literally. Still can't even access the drivers' side clips without further damage to the brittle leather. Maybe this car just gets seatcovers which don't let you move the headrest. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2012 16:33
|
|
|
Is there an easy way to heat/re-bend the plastic trim on an NG900? It has shrunk to the point that some of the clips are showing.. which I would ignore, but black car, black trim, white clips... Yep. NG900 is fine, other than bitching at me after changing wheels. Threw itself into limp mode temporarily. Not sure if ignition or NPS. Stop costing me money, you little gently caress. Praying for NPS.. Easy to rebuild. Maybe two hours including scrape and grease.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2012 07:25
|
|
|
Yup. NPS is intermittent after re-lubing. Works, but a little flakey, and threw me into limp mode again. Fucker. Ordered a guaranteed used one from Scott at V&S for $85. If it wasn't guaranteed (and the proper one), I wouldn't have paid that much. I love my loving Swedes, and my Swedes love loving me.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2012 23:05
|
|
|
Got another 'Check Gearbox'. Yay, NPS. Replacement NPS got here today. Battery was fine after trickle charge through evening, but weak. Only local Type 47 I could find was $150, so I grabbed a Type 58, and turned it around to save a good portion of that fee.  Tomorrow, I get to do the NPS. Here's what the painted vikings look like. Not sure if I dislike, or tolerate, but I don't care. At least getting the NPS out tomorrow should take less than half an hour thanks to all of the work I did on the frickin' 95 with a bad NPS. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2012 00:20
|
|
|
Decided I'll just get the 'proper' replacement Type 91 battery and return the 58, because it isn't quite pretty as it is setup. I hate that NPS bolt on the right side. Managed to crack it with roughly 1/4" of wiggle room with my thinnest boxwrench. Nothing else could possibly fit. Ever. Should have opened the box for the NPS before tearing down, even though the car has already made it to 'unreliable'. They sent me a '95 which has TWO plugs (which would have been great for the short lived 95), and the '96 has a single 10 pole AMP plug.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2012 20:24
|
|
|
Viggen, you're my hero. It's getting cold out which means its time for my NG 9-3's winter gremlins to come out. If I start the car when it is really cold out, I get an airbag failure on the SID & the drivers seatbelt and airbag lights come on. I've figured out that if I turn it off after ~5 minutes and turn it back on, everything is good. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2012 02:13
|
|
|
A 2000 9-3 turbo with a year's MOT for £400 sounds intriguing, in that "multiple disasters waiting to happen" way...
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2012 14:16
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:A 2000 9-3 turbo with a year's MOT for £400 sounds intriguing, in that "multiple disasters waiting to happen" way... I think I can taste the engine sludge over the internet.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2012 15:20
|
|
|
Johnny Cache Hit posted:It's getting cold out which means its time for my NG 9-3's winter gremlins to come out. If I start the car when it is really cold out, I get an airbag failure on the SID & the drivers seatbelt and airbag lights come on. I've figured out that if I turn it off after ~5 minutes and turn it back on, everything is good. NG9-3? You mean 9-3SS? (Post 2003?). That's likely a CIM issue. So long as you can make it go away, I'd just leave it alone. InitialDave posted:A 2000 9-3 turbo with a year's MOT for £400 sounds intriguing, in that "multiple disasters waiting to happen" way... Worst case, you're probably just looking for a new B205. If you're really lucky, it'll be a rancid pile of poo poo that has water damage to the electrics. Not that I'd hold out much hope, but try to get TIS records and oil change data, check for PCV#6, etc, etc.. It's probably sludged with a slipping clutch - and thats' just the test drive.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2012 16:32
|
|
|
Johnny Cache Hit posted:I think I can taste the engine sludge over the internet. Viggen posted:Worst case, you're probably just looking for a new B205. If you're really lucky, it'll be a rancid pile of poo poo that has water damage to the electrics. Not that I'd hold out much hope, but try to get TIS records and oil change data, check for PCV#6, etc, etc..  comments.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2012 17:12
|
|
|
Viggen posted:NG9-3? You mean 9-3SS? (Post 2003?). That's likely a CIM issue. So long as you can make it go away, I'd just leave it alone. Yeah, SS. I'm used to TSN naming (OG and NG) I guess. My current approach to driving it is "no wrecks for the first few miles until I can make the airbag light go off"  I've griped about the electrical gremlins in this car before. I'd love a nice 900, but am not holding my breath - I'm far north enough that the road salt chews through cars, but far south enough that the people don't care much for Euro-peein cars 
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2012 19:53
|
|
|
My 2K 9-5 has a clockspring on the way out. Every other time I start it, the airbag and BIG TRIANGLE OF DEATH light up, then eventually goes out. Still goes out. Leaving it.  Johnny Cache Hit posted:I've griped about the electrical gremlins in this car before. I'd love a nice 900, but am not holding my breath - I'm far north enough that the road salt chews through cars, but far south enough that the people don't care much for Euro-peein cars :clint Oh god.. is it a 2003? Not sure how far North you are but I have found an incredible amount of not-rusty C900s coming out of the woodwork near Billings, MT. Viggen fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Oct 12, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2012 19:54
|
|
|
So, replaced NPS. It didn't want to register properly with the N/alignment as stamped.. of course. I ended up manually rolling it back and forth while car was in neutral and reverse, respectively. Now it works, BUT I can't get the drat shifter to go into park. It'll go from R-1 perfectly fine, but when I kick up to Park, the gear selector cable is binding above the NPS. Going to take NPS off and check transmission with a hotwire tomorrow to make sure everythings' still fine, otherwise. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2012 23:35
|
|
|
Yup. New NPS is a little flakey too, and now my gear selector cable is binding from R to P.. Can easily get transmission into P with a gentle twist. Suuper. Took the Turbo X and 2K8 95 out for their 'likely last drive until winter is over'. Refreshingly enjoyable, until I put them away and realized that I will never again own a new SAAB. I also had a moment of what normal people call 'clarity'. Why the hell am I spending my free time wrenching on shitboxes when I have perfectly fine cars that I refuse to drive? The NG900 is a project for a friend, but that doesn't explain the rest.. Viggen fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Oct 13, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 19:26
|
|
|
Viggen posted:Yup. New NPS is a little flakey too,
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 19:33
|
|
|
Mario posted:And here I thought that a Sensonic system would have the most troublesome maintenance. It really doesn't help that I'm basically the crazy catlady of SAABs. "Oh you poor thing, several broken window rollers, 3 doors that are jammed shut, and a few different codes thrown AND the wrong DI? I'll take you home and take care of you." Any suggestions for what I can do about my gear selector cable - or am I just completely hosed?
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 20:02
|
|
|
Nothing specific to the gear selector cable, having not worked on one, but I'd just check the full run of the cable to see if there were any kinks or binding points, possibly removing the cable to clean and lube it, then throwing parts at it if nothing helped yet.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 20:59
|
|
|
Well, the problem is is that where it is binding, it's actually just bowing without kicking the tranny into Park. I'm somewhat considering building a crappy bracket that sits atop of the NPS bolt and attempts to keep the cable straight. RIP Mary. You were a kind, jovial person. I'm going to miss speaking with you when I need difficult-to-find parts. 
Viggen fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Oct 13, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2012 21:54
|
|
|
Prototype Gear Shift Cable Support Module(tm) If this actually works, I'll build a real bracket. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2012 00:39
|
|
|
Got the new NPS in, haven't bothered to test. I am a bit surprised that nobody picked up on my bracket comment before.. too subtle? Anyhow, here's what's going on:  There is a plastic sleeve there (not shown on on picture here), which provides further tension on the wire, so it doesn't bow when the clasp has to ratchet around to park. Considering how to rebuild that, without having more than 6" of clearance to work with, because there is no loving way this is coming out of the car.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2012 21:18
|
|
|
Guess what's done?  Ok, so I found a replacement steering column cover (top and bottom) for $10, and I need to pull the radio to get it to see the CD (does this every time battery is out), but the car is done. I ended up strengthening the entire run from the bracket to the NPS, and mounting it under the secondary no-longer-on-new-cars post.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2012 21:57
|
|
|
Award winning 1974 Sonett III that I own I posted a few months back is now available. Just don't have the time to drive it and planning on moving soon. I've got mountains of history for this car, anything you want me to post in here I'd be happy to. Here's an imgur album of some pro photos I had done and some extras.. http://imgur.com/a/10D0L http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/saab/sonett_iii/1483490.html
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2012 23:14
|
|
|
Viggen, think of what your wife will say. It's not worth it. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2012 23:24
|
|
|
Faerunner posted:Viggen, think of what your wife will say. It's not worth it. I'm not dealing with a Sonett for at least another decade or two. Like I decided with the 4-4-2s that were a few grand in the 90s. I'm sure it'll work out just fine. You can get a lower mileage 2006+ for what Lex is asking. Far, far out of my 'WHEE! TOY!' budget.  I will not deal with those hideous US spec bumpers. They just ruin the car. sure is pretty, though. E2: AC sucked rear end on drive home. Cabin filter before Sunday. Viggen fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Oct 19, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2012 23:30
|
|
|
lexleningrad posted:Award winning 1974 Sonett III that I own I posted a few months back is now available. Just don't have the time to drive it and planning on moving soon. I've got mountains of history for this car, anything you want me to post in here I'd be happy to. Here's an imgur album of some pro photos I had done and some extras.. God I remember when you posted about that.  If only I had 13k, I'd be all over that in a heartbeat.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2012 03:49
|
|
|
My 2000 Saab 93 is now only taking gas very slowly with a hissing noise coming out of the filler. I'm guessing it's the EVAP canister. What are the odds this is correct?
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2012 05:50
|
|
|
n8r posted:I'm guessing it's the EVAP canister. What are the odds this is correct? No codes? Unlikely. Does it smell rich/lean? Any codes?
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2012 06:24
|
|
|
lexleningrad posted:Award winning 1974 Sonett III that I own I posted a few months back is now available. Just don't have the time to drive it and planning on moving soon. I've got mountains of history for this car, anything you want me to post in here I'd be happy to. Here's an imgur album of some pro photos I had done and some extras..
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2012 15:42
|
|
|
Viggen posted:No codes? Unlikely. Does it smell rich/lean? Any codes? No CEL... Would the crazy saab diagnostic poo poo show something different than a regular ODB scanner?
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2012 16:59
|
|
|
n8r posted:Would the crazy saab diagnostic poo poo show something different than a regular ODB scanner? Quite a bit more. I'd buy a cheap $6 non-locking gas cap and stick that on to see if it takes care of the hiss. The T5 and T7 cars I've run into are VERY picky about evap issues, (but the cars aren't always smart enough when your MAF is bad to do more than run lean/rich, and if you don't notice that, you're well on your way to a dead engine). Do you have aftermarket wheels on the car? Have you hit any large bumps recently? Bent filler necks (or worn through) are not uncommon when people stick 18s or even some fatter non-factory 17 wheels on. I'd try a new gas cap, even if it's not throwing any codes, just to see if the hiss goes away.. that'll give a starting point. Since I had my evap leak fixed, the NG900 is incredibly, incredibly slow to fill.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2012 17:31
|
|
|
The hiss only happens when you are filling up. Basically I think it's the breather causing problems. I bet my mechanic will be able to figure out it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2012 20:39
|
|
|
n8r posted:The hiss only happens when you are filling up. Basically I think it's the breather causing problems. I bet my mechanic will be able to figure out it. Ah, I thought you meant you heard an audible hiss from around the filler while running. If it's just a bit of a pain to fill, you may have tweaked your filler tube a bit, which is what likely happened. It's annoying, but I doubt you're going to be throwing any codes or have other issues due to it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2012 21:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 09:13 |
|
|
Alright Saab Goons, I've a question for you. Today I went to a local used car dealership and looked at a pair of Saabs, and I'd like to know what you, who are wise in the ways of such cars, think about them. One was a 1990 900 16 valve Coupe, asking price $2,990. It seemed to be a turd but a strong runner. It started right away and produced a slight tick from the motor which went away in fifteen seconds or so -knowing nothing about Saabs I'd guess that it's just the oil working its way to the top end of the motor. 173,xxx miles. Concerns: Wheel is cocked about 30 degrees right but car tracks straight. Brake pedal VERY hard, but car stops well. Gear stick sloppy but shifts easily into and out of all 5 gears. HVAC seemed to have 2 distinct modes -"Do nothing" and "Blow blazing hot air out of some vents". Suspect air con inop. Radio turns on but doesn't make sound, put something like "CrOFe" on display when on. Headliner falling down and rotten. HUGE gap between backrest and cushion of rear seat; easily a 4" gap or more. Black, burned-looking spot on top of engine block towards rear passenger side of car. Ignition switch very, very sticky and sloppy at once. Random clicks and clacks while driving. -Overall, it seemed to run strong and was fun to drive. It pulls hard when stomped on and handles nicely, from what I could tell on a brief test drive with the dealer in the car. It doesn't seem like a good deal to me, though, it seems like they're asking too much money. Second car was a 2000 9-3 sedan, turbocharged 2.0 litre. 134,xxx miles. Asking price $3,990. (Prices in American dollars) The 90 had a conventionally positioned engine, this car's motor appeared to be a transverse mount. Concerns: -Tiny rust patches on edges of 3 wheel arches. -Brake pedal soft and travels a long distance before the brakes grab strong, but it seemed to stop OK. -Throttle response seemed strange, as if the return spring gets much stronger as you get your foot down. The 90 seemed a hell of a lot quicker initially, but it may have been that the spring was keeping me from realizing just how much pedal I had left. It also might be turbo lag, as it's been almost ten years since I've driven a turbocharged car. -Very slight tick when engine running, only audible with hood up. Engine sounds good otherwise, I really don't know enough about Saab motors to say much more, which is why I'm asking here. If pushed I'd think it's a good deal, but I'd like to know what you guys think. Thanks in advance!
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2012 21:31
|
|