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richyp posted:Cross-posting my EC tester. Gonna get me some FW goodness and use this scheme, only neatly (and with actual purple paint too) Im treating myself to some Emperors Children too, especially with Fulgrim coming out soon.
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Oct 26, 2012 06:51
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Pierzak posted:Got any link where I can read up on it, specifically how to recognize on photos? It never occurred to me, maybe because I actually have work ethics As I recall it, when Finecast was rolling out several Goons spotted photoshops on the box art--minor things like color swaps, color balancing, and general "make the photo look real" stuff that's perfectly fine for professional-grade photos. But then they found this guy. It was pointed out that the photo was mostly the same as the old one, but the power sword featured blends that did not appear upon the first model; if you look close, it's easy enough to see that some gently caress got happy with the smudge tool on that thing. Now, I'm not a gambling man, but I'm willing to bet that if GW photoshopped one thing, they will continue to do so. Fake Edit: Hahaha, holy gently caress, they actually have the older, untouched version of the model's photo right next to the box art one. Here's the original, and here's the actual GW page with both side by side, since I wouldn't believe me either. Comparing them more, it's clear they did more than just smooth out the blends on the sword; you can see it on the cloak and parts of the uniform's jacket.
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Oct 26, 2012 06:57
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Sole.Sushi posted:As I recall it, when Finecast was rolling out several Goons spotted photoshops on the box art--minor things like color swaps, color balancing, and general "make the photo look real" stuff that's perfectly fine for professional-grade photos. But then they found this guy. It was pointed out that the photo was mostly the same as the old one, but the power sword featured blends that did not appear upon the first model; if you look close, it's easy enough to see that some gently caress got happy with the smudge tool on that thing. They photoshopped the lightning claws off of one of the Chaos models recently too, although that might've just been an accident when putting him against a background.
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Oct 26, 2012 07:13
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I also have a sneaking suspicion that the green glow effect they have on Kharn's eyes is actually photoshop, as the model looks to have the EXACT same paint job as the previous photos, but suddently mega-glow on the eyes. e: I actually think, as far as Oath Breaker avatars go, this one is pretty boss. It has a Helldrake on it!
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Oct 26, 2012 10:22
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OneTrueBru posted:I painted pretty sporadically at first (though mainly due to being a giant baby and getting frustrated at how lovely my paintjobs looked, rather than laziness I read this as you painted sporadically because you HAD a giant baby, and was confused. I went into GW today and out of morbid curiosity started going through their finecast models. I am absolutely horrified to report that they all looked great and I wanted to buy loads of them there and then. For those of you who have forgotten, I am the person who tried to fix up the abominable Samael model that included bubbles, missing parts, parts of the mold stuck in the model and nothing fitting together. Turns out the manager (who is a lovely guy, now I think he's awesome) went through every pack they got from the last two weeks, and any incoming, and sent back every single crappy, slightly flawed one they had. The ones left on the shelves looked great. Before I've looked at finecast and even without 'actual' flaws like bubbles and deformities they haven't looked very nice at all. The edges always looked shabby to me, surfaces weren't smooth, details looked untidy; always like a knockoff of the original sculpt. This batch all looked great though: perfectly smooth surfaces, hard lines, no flash/lines to remove. The managed said not only had he gone through things, but GW was requesting things be sent back and apparently are finally tightening up their QA. From what I've seen, I'm half inclined to believe it. So if, like me, you hated finecast before and it brought up a rage within you matched only by the rage of the chaotic rift (mild annoyance), go check out some blisters and see if they've been QA'd as well. I still wouldn't recommend buying anything you can't look at (nothing in the cardboard boxes) but the blisters I do.
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Oct 26, 2012 11:53
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This time, since re-doing the leg would have been silly, I redid the torso. The leg is pretty much as the reference. The torso was quite undersized. The deltoids will really bring it home, I think. The shape of the helmet is a little off, I'll try to fix it when I add the cover. I've also been advised that I need to add a p8 pistol so that'll go on the left hand side of his vest.    
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Oct 26, 2012 14:28
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Lethemonster posted:I read this as you painted sporadically because you HAD a giant baby, and was confused. It amuses me that GW would rather pay to ship blisters out and back than actually pay some guy to check the product before it goes out of the factory.
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Oct 26, 2012 14:40
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I have to replace a few GW metallics, should I get the same or the new GW equivalents? I'm not sold on the new basic paint line and I'm switching to Vallejo, but their metallics leave a bit to be desired. VVV: But which ones are better, old or new? I'm tempted to go with old since they're slightly cheaper and won't require me to readjust the palette. Pierzak fucked around with this message at 16:07 on Oct 26, 2012 |
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Oct 26, 2012 15:47
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GW metallics are still the best on the market in my eyes.
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Oct 26, 2012 15:48
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If you can get the metallics from Andrea Miniatures they're pretty awesome. They sell both steel and gold paint kits with base-shade-highlight and three inks in each kit.
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Oct 26, 2012 16:34
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Speaking of metallics - anyone have a recommendation on a cobalt metallic blue? I'm painting some Warmachine Cygnar 'jacks, and I want to give them that extra bit of pop.
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Oct 26, 2012 17:34
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Lofidelity Media posted:Speaking of metallics - anyone have a recommendation on a cobalt metallic blue? I'm painting some Warmachine Cygnar 'jacks, and I want to give them that extra bit of pop. Tamiya makes a FANTASTIC metallic blue. It's going to require you to use thinner though.
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Oct 26, 2012 20:52
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Manifest posted:Tamiya makes a FANTASTIC metallic blue. Like a matte medium?
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Oct 26, 2012 21:06
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Lofidelity Media posted:Like a matte medium? No, tamiya paints aren't water based, so you need to use an actual paint thinner. I just use the tamiya branded one.
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Oct 26, 2012 21:14
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This might be a dumb question but are plastic sprues (GW, if it makes a difference) something I can put in the recycling bin, or are they the wrong kind of plastic? I know scrap sprue has its uses but after assembling DV I have way more empty sprue than I can see ever needing.
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Oct 26, 2012 21:35
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If I just wanted to make the most balls to the wall pimpin' Space Marine army, where would I go for bits? I know Scibor, Maxmini, MAS, Pig Iron, Secret Weapon and Armorcast. Am I missing anyone (trying to use mostly non Forgeworld stuff here).
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Oct 27, 2012 02:26
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So I got commissioned to do a pre-heresey Emperor's Children army and it's all Forge World and IT loving SUCKS. There are little blisters everywhere and none of the resin is smooth. There's flash covering everything. People pay how much for this poo poo? Jesus Christ.
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Oct 27, 2012 02:55
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Would this be doable for a daylight lamp? http://www.lssproducts.com/product/4005/natural-daylight-lamps
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Oct 27, 2012 03:47
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El Estrago Bonito posted:If I just wanted to make the most balls to the wall pimpin' Space Marine army, where would I go for bits? Kromlech.eu has Marine bits as well, they're not just crazy Ork stuff. 
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Oct 27, 2012 05:02
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LoG posted:Would this be doable for a daylight lamp? Looks good to me. I just got a pair of cheap bedside lamps from Fred Meyers and put daylight bulbs in them. Works pretty good.
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Oct 27, 2012 05:09
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JerryLee posted:This might be a dumb question but are plastic sprues (GW, if it makes a difference) something I can put in the recycling bin, or are they the wrong kind of plastic? Most modern recycle centers will take everything short of organic waste and/or items made of many composite materials. There isn't a "wrong kind of plastic" any more for the purposes of recycling, thankfully. Hell, the ones out where I am don't even ask that you sort the poo poo beforehand; all that's done at the facility now days.
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Oct 27, 2012 05:45
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You think all the talent for vehicle painting just comes from the guys painting GW and FW stuff sometimes. Its only when I see what the WW2 guys do that I am reminded where the pros are 
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Oct 27, 2012 12:35
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:Its only when I see what the WW2 guys do that I am reminded where the pros are Where are the spikes, chains and top-knots? Those water effects are fantastic. How on earth do you achieve those?
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Oct 27, 2012 15:21
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:You think all the talent for vehicle painting just comes from the guys painting GW and FW stuff sometimes. Its only when I see what the WW2 guys do that I am reminded where the pros are That's... that's completely insane! Where did you find it?
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Oct 27, 2012 16:23
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TheBlobThing posted:That's... that's completely insane! Where did you find it? I dont know where its from, I found it on the platoon britannica forums.  http://platoonbritannica.com/index.php?threads/awesome-models-and-inspiration.259/page-65There are some risque minis on there hence the NWS tag, but there is no greater thread to make you feel inadequate about your painting skills. EDIT: Looking at the actual description it is by MarcFighter Modeller. Cant find any work under that tag. Limp Wristed Limey fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Oct 27, 2012 |
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Oct 27, 2012 17:38
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:I dont know where its from, I found it on the platoon britannica forums. Oh god. Usually I get encouraged to paint up some more minis by looking at pictures of others' work, but this has the opposite effect on me. It's incredible work they've got posted there.
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Oct 27, 2012 18:01
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To be honest, we ain't poo poo compared to some of the scale modellers out there. I thought I was awesome doing weapon or arm swaps on miniatures, and then I saw a guy who kit constructed his own SU-34 from a SU-27, requiring extensive re-modelling, and got it picture perfect. The paintjob at the end made me want to blow my brains out.
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Oct 27, 2012 19:57
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Raphus C posted:Where are the spikes, chains and top-knots? By spending months sculpting it out of resin and painting each layer as you go so you build up the colour naturally.
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Oct 27, 2012 20:29
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So clean. 
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Oct 27, 2012 22:32
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someone posted a great guide many many pages back on how to do an arctic camo scheme using an airbrush and silly putty. could someone repost it or point to it?
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Oct 27, 2012 22:54
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:You think all the talent for vehicle painting just comes from the guys painting GW and FW stuff sometimes. Its only when I see what the WW2 guys do that I am reminded where the pros are Raphus C posted:Where are the spikes, chains and top-knots? 
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Oct 28, 2012 02:04
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Trollblood Fennblades       Going for a blue for the main tartan color is prob not the most pro choice, but I wanted them to have the same pattern as my Fennblade Champ Hero conversion:  
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Oct 28, 2012 02:55
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What do you guys do to weigh down slotted bases?
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Oct 28, 2012 03:26
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Glue a penny or nickel to it That's the easiest/only way I know.
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Oct 28, 2012 04:09
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Hixson posted:What do you guys do to weigh down slotted bases? Metal washers, cut, trimmed and glued on the underside of the base.
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Oct 28, 2012 04:10
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Icon Of Sin posted:Glue a penny or nickel to it Slotta bases. You can cut a penny in two, or you can glue birdshot to the bottom of it, or fishing weights. Or cut the tabs off your models, and mount them to a regular round base with a nickel under it.
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Oct 28, 2012 04:12
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Fix posted:Slotta bases.  I should really just go to bed now 
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Oct 28, 2012 04:19
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Raphus C posted:Where are the spikes, chains and top-knots? There was a video posted about a Japanese Gundam model enthusiast that had a Zaku climbing out of the water in a dramatic diorama. Best that I can remember, most of that water is actually modeling compound (like the Black Lava stuff, just without the beads), shaped very meticulously to mimic the natural shape of water. He did this in several layers, mixing various colors in each layer to achieve a look of realistic hues. The whitecaps were added last before the whole thing was given a coat of gloss to give the water a wet appearance. That video was fantastic as you got to see his processes in addition to the actual application; I really wish I had saved it.
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Oct 28, 2012 06:51
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Sole.Sushi posted:Best that I can remember, most of that water is actually modeling compound (like the Black Lava stuff, just without the beads), shaped very meticulously to mimic the natural shape of water. He did this in several layers, mixing various colors in each layer to achieve a look of realistic hues. This is a whole level of dedication beyond that which I dream of. I paint to table-top and do so messily and as quickly as possible. I have been doing this for 2.5 years but I do not have the patience to push on. When I see some of the models that people paint, and picture the amount of time and effort that they have spent, it amazes me. I think it was stripping and re-painting 200+ Orks that ruined me. I still have to base them and improve their skin.
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Oct 28, 2012 13:48
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Fix posted:Slotta bases. Pennies it is. Thanks
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Oct 28, 2012 15:47
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