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Red_October_7000 posted:Radio turns on but doesn't make sound, put something like "CrOFe" on display when on. I have a feeling it was in tape mode.
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Oct 26, 2012 22:01
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atomicthumbs posted:I have a feeling it was in tape mode. Hurf Durf. Dunno how I might have missed that one. Now I feel like an idiot.
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Oct 26, 2012 22:48
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What should I plan for, in maintaining my car? We have a 2008 9-5 Wagon, 40K miles, 2.5t. I'd like to keep it for another 4-6 years. We don't drive very much - only 12K of those miles are in the last two years, we moved and use a bus and public transportation quite a bit. It lives in a nice dry garage, gets an oil change every 3000-4000 miles, fully synthetic since day 1. Reading through the thread it seems like the spark cassette could go, but beyond that what is else is likely to go? (besides normal wear and tear, I know I am getting close to rear brake pads, and I have a slight shudder when braking firmly from high speeds (>85mph). Are the headlight angle adjusters known to fail? I've had one replaced and sometimes I see one winking a little bit at night.
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Oct 27, 2012 01:56
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InitialDave posted:A 2000 9-3 turbo with a year's MOT for £400 sounds intriguing, in that "multiple disasters waiting to happen" way... I bought a 2001 9-3 turbo auto with 6 months MOT for £400 in April(ish) this year. Came with a huge pile of reciepts and had just had a shiney new turbo fitted. I'm viewing it such that if a disaster happens the scrap man will give me atleast £300 for it! It is a lot of car for £400. Awesome for crusing on the motorway as it has aircon and cruise control, and seat heaters and they all work! (I've had 2 ng900's and none of these have worked) It is very thirsty (21mpg round town but 30mpg on the motorway). As £400 cars go it hasnt been bad, though it seems to be developing loads of niggly issues at the moment. I've done almost 9000 miles in it since getting it and it has cost me: £2334.90 in petrol £300 for an MOT (needed a patch welding and some bushes) £35 for 2 drive belts as they snap when you overtake people with the aircon on max! £30 for oil as it had an annoying leak in an oil cooler pipe - fixed with the speacial saab OEM £2 yellow O ring most recently I have had to bypass the neutral safety switch to cure an intermittent non start This week it has also burnt out the fan speed control resistor leaving me with no fans and it looks like a really fiddly job to replace. It has also just started having PCV plumbing issues and I have to fit a load of new pipes and the latest PCV kit (£40) as they all keep falling off and making it smoke and run funny when they do.
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Oct 27, 2012 20:03
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Red_October_7000 posted:Alright Saab Goons, I've a question for you. Today I went to a local used car dealership and looked at a pair of Saabs, and I'd like to know what you, who are wise in the ways of such cars, think about them. One was a 1990 900 16 valve Coupe, asking price $2,990. This is a bit high (IMO) for a car that has this many obvious maintenance issues, and it will be a fun car, but will end up slowly draining your wallet on nuances. I loved my '89, but it was getting old. The good part about this car is that most of the consumable parts are still obtainable, and made by Bosch. Red_October_7000 posted:Second car was a 2000 9-3 sedan, turbocharged 2.0 litre. 134,xxx miles. Asking price $3,990. (Prices in American dollars) The 90 had a conventionally positioned engine, this car's motor appeared to be a transverse mount. I think you have the engine placements backwards in the above statement. The 2000 is prone to sludging, I'd ask for all records to show that it was up to date for work, and I'd attempt to isolate the ticking.. if it ticks constantly, did you isolate where it came from? Did it sound like it was from the passenger side, or 'everywhere'? Everywhere would (likely) be lifter tick. That usually goes away after it warms up. If it doesn't, it may be sludg[ed/ing]. some_admin posted:What should I plan for, in maintaining my car? I haven't experienced that problem with my 2K8, but I can't say that I am at all familiar with a 2.5t 95, either. Sure you don't mean the 2.8t V6? Tomarse posted:most recently I have had to bypass the neutral safety switch to cure an intermittent non start Congratulations on your (relatively cheap) used SAAB!  I replaced the final missing/broken part on the NG900 SE this morning.. the steering column cover on the bottom was broken off. I got a top/bottom set off eBay for $10 in great shape, with the screws. Ok, churd, time for you to find your home in California. Viggen fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Oct 28, 2012 |
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Oct 28, 2012 19:34
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Checked the mail today for Saturday.  Oh, hello, what's this?  Presents from my friends in Sweden. 
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Oct 29, 2012 06:32
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This thread has been a hilarious roller coaster to burn through in an hour or two. Viggen, shine on you crazy bastard. Having said that, the in-laws just picked up a new loaded 2011 (I believe) 9-3 2.0t sportcombi (auto). Did I saw new? Yes, new for under 30k. What level of hurt are they in for? I saw a link about the dead warranties from late last year - is that still applicable? I have yet to get behind the wheel, though I'm very interested to truly experience a saab, and it looks great... but I fear for their sanity (they came from a toyota if that is any indication).
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Oct 29, 2012 18:01
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D'awwww. The biggest issue with the LG cars is not only the lack of warranty, but the lack of parts. Saab Parts AB is now shipping once more, SAAB Parts USA is the official North American distributor for SP AB, but I haven't bothered Mike to see what parts are still long-term backordered, since I don't need anything right now (nor do I have anything newer than 2008). The factories were restarted to make several parts, but the entire subsystem is GM based, and GM is flat refusing to make or distribute parts. Front bumpers, V6 bits, and various often-fail bits are already becoming scarce, but I can't think of any other off the top of my head. ECU and other electrical issues may become problems - and it's not well known if it's even possible to try to sue GM into making them for existing customers, as for the last couple of years, they were a 'contractor' for SAAB. The GM year warranties are just about up, so I think this may fall into the "gently caress off' category.
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Oct 29, 2012 18:12
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It was as I feared. Thanks! Also, the T-X is an 08? drat... Looks amazing.
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Oct 29, 2012 21:32
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ssjonizuka posted:It was as I feared. Thanks! Don't let that COMPLETELY talk you out of it. There are plenty of companies working on aftermarket bits, and many things are still strong - the only thing I can think of as "Back Ordered from Hell" is the 93 nose, the newer 95 windshield wiper transmission, and (formerly), the 93 keyfobs. Drive the In-Laws' for a bit if they'll allow you, and decide if you like the quirks, or not. Eventually, you give it up, or you refuse to. ssjonizuka posted:Also, the T-X is an 08? drat... Looks amazing. Got it for a song in April at ~26k on the odo. You should hear the exhaust! One of these days before it snows I'll have to do a video so you can ear just how awesome it is. Since the NG900 is done, and I wasn't quite happy, I did the Foam Rubber SID repair. It's back to at least 90% of the pixels from something like 70% before. Not perfect, but for free, it'll do. [E: Not the greatest recording on the planet, but here is the Turbo X exhaust with the car at idle, along with the sporadic Sheltie bark.]  n8r posted:Just an update on my slow filling 93. The check engine light is now on so I'd wager it's an evap code, haven't checked it yet. In good news the ABS light that likes to turn on for a few months at a time is off again! Have the code read. That means it's a 'perm' code. Those don't generally get set by bad gas caps; my trivial EVAP issue would set a hard CEL the moment it idled without clean airflow for several minutes; I gave up and took it in to get it smoked. It had a few issues. Viggen fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Oct 30, 2012 |
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Oct 29, 2012 22:22
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Just an update on my slow filling 93. The check engine light is now on so I'd wager it's an evap code, haven't checked it yet. In good news the ABS light that likes to turn on for a few months at a time is off again!
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Oct 30, 2012 00:21
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Viggen posted:Don't let that COMPLETELY talk you out of it. There are plenty of companies working on aftermarket bits, and many things are still strong - the only thing I can think of as "Back Ordered from Hell" is the 93 nose, the newer 95 windshield wiper transmission, and (formerly), the 93 keyfobs. I fully accept I probably couldn't handle a saab myself, though I'll try to appreciate it more via proxy - and my fear is more for the non-gear head in-laws buying a car with very little in the way of warranty support as they look to retire in the next few years. Having said that, your mic sucks (though the sheltie helps a bit). We (I) demand video of the car, including a drive by or two.
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Oct 30, 2012 13:37
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ssjonizuka posted:I fully accept I probably couldn't handle a saab myself, though I'll try to appreciate it more via proxy - and my fear is more for the non-gear head in-laws buying a car with very little in the way of warranty support as they look to retire in the next few years. As long as they change the oil and pay attention to any warnings, they'll likely be fine for several years. Just need to watch out for accidents, don't want the car getting totaled because replacement parts are not (yet) available). ssjonizuka posted:Having said that, your mic sucks (though the sheltie helps a bit). We (I) demand video of the car, including a drive by or two. Smartphone does not a good mic make - I'll have to bring her out of the winter mothballed storage before the snow falls and it sticks. I would have done a video but after destroying 3 expensive phones, I opted for the $60 one, which does 30 seconds of video at MMS standard. 
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Oct 30, 2012 17:44
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I have asked this before... but I found this car. http://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/3323657912.html and in turn... found this website. http://www.lostsaabkeys.com/RemovalInstructionsSaab9395.aspx Is it a hoax or legit? Because they have been trying to sell this car for some time. As long as its in good shape, I think I could talk them down, and still sell it for a small profit. But I am not a Saab person... what say you guys?
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Nov 3, 2012 17:40
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I think I could talk them down, and still sell it for a small profit. But I am not a Saab person... what say you guys? Without the original key, you may be able to get a dealership/indy to have one made for you, but you are going to need a paper trail. This may be a decent car, or it may be a pile of poo poo. It looks all original (proper wheels), paint is in good shape, plastic lights look in good shape, but there's no indication of mileage, history, et al. You may be buying a pig in a poke. I'd grab it for the right price - with at least semi-recent history available. This is a 'sludge' year, and without the ability to fire it up and do basic tests, there's no way I'd personally drop $1500 on this car. You'll also find that the term 'profit' in relation to SAAB is not a direct correlation, it is an antonym.
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Nov 3, 2012 21:34
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Ok never mind. I thought this could be easy.... but meh. I will stick to land barges that sell so well in my area.
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Nov 3, 2012 22:42
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Ok never mind. I thought this could be easy.... but meh. I will stick to land barges that sell so well in my area. If they'll haul it somewhere to have it looked over, it may very well be worth your time - but $1500 for any car that you can't start is a bit of a risk. With SAABs, it is a bit more so.
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Nov 3, 2012 23:31
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Well, once you mentioned sludge, and then the lack of owning another key just screams "I bought a high end car but I don't know how to take care of it". Which means I am looking into a basket case. I really don't need more of those. Unless it is a Land Rover of some kind.
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Nov 3, 2012 23:46
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I really don't need more of those. Unless it is a Land Rover of some kind. If you're just planning on flipping it, you're going to have at LEAST $2,000 invested. That's if it has the right top, the electronics are OK, the turbo isn't shot, it hasn't caked up inside, et al. Basically, that's my concern as well. Unless you're willing to learn 'how to do SAAB', you probably don't want to start with a car with no history, and no reliable way of testing it. Since SAAB is gone, the cars are going cheap, but the parts are going high. I don't see that trend changing.
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Nov 3, 2012 23:50
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Converted the NG900 SE to Full Synth today. 125050. drat that was filthy oil for only having 1300 miles on it.  SAABdog was less than helpful (since everyone else has a mascot, I might as well, too!). 
Viggen fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Nov 9, 2012 |
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Nov 4, 2012 20:59
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My favorite TSB..
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Nov 14, 2012 15:07
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Took my 9-3 into the local Saab dealer today (first time I've ever taken a car there!) and had the sump dropped and cleaned, the autobox oil changed and the updated PCV kit and a load of other new PCV pipes fitted. Apparently the sump was pretty clean already (its a 2001 9-3 with 170k miles) which makes me sleep easier! It cost 3/4 of what I paid for the car but I'm hoping it puts it in good stead to last at least another 12 months - in which case it will be well worth it! Have only done 15 miles in traffic since but having a smooth gearbox that actually changes up and down promptly makes it feel like a different car. Also not leaving a constant smoke screen and having oil dripping onto the exhaust and then burning off all the time (out of a dangling PCV line) is a bonus. They also valeted it and cleared the check engine light - which stayed off for all of 10 miles before coming back on as soon as I overtook someone in sport mode! The CEL previously was on for the recirc dump valve (got a new one ready to fit) and for 'CAT efficiency low' so i guess it is back for one of them I assume there isn't much i can do to stop the CAT efficiency one? (other than a new CAT) Or will new plugs help it? (also get the flashing misfire CEL under full boost). It also has a slight blow on the manifold due to a missing stud. Will this affect the CAT efficiency CEL? Is it more likely that the stud is broken or just missing?... Tomarse fucked around with this message at 09:30 on Nov 15, 2012 |
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Nov 14, 2012 23:55
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Tomarse posted:It also has a slight blow on the manifold due to a missing stud. Will this affect the CAT efficiency CEL? Is it more likely that the stud is broken or just missing?... I'm a bit surprised that you did not have the PCV#6 update, since that has been around since 2005/2006. Glad to hear you weren't sludged. You may consider getting another flush in 40k or so if this is the first flush; my tranny was stumbling slightly in 3-4th, so I flushed it at 150k, which is likely the first time it was ever flushed. Thankfully, the 4 speed autos are (almost always) rock stable, and unless quite abused, can last forever. Your misfire could be down to the CAT. If your cat is clogged, you're going to have a misfire at WOT, and if you're losing pressure from a rather bad leak, that will be affecting boost as well. You should look into replacing the cat, at the very least. I've never seen an inefficient cat code from an exhaust manifold issue. It's more likely that the stud is broken, and you'll have to drill it out, which is a complete pain in the rear end. Really, your options are to learn to live with it, or expect to get completely hosed on having someone else deal with the exhaust studs. They tend to last about 10 years; replace ALL of them at one time. As usual, YMMV, I'm only a shadetree, and Mario/others may have further insight beyond my 'this is what mine do/have done'.
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Nov 15, 2012 15:51
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How are the 9-5 Aeros in terms of reliability and maintenance costs? I'm looking at wagons and was originally set on a Mazda 6 wagon but came across a few 9-5's (05's) that look really nice. I don't want a car that's going to rape me on maintenance or repairs though.
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Nov 15, 2012 17:11
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leica posted:How are the 9-5 Aeros in terms of reliability and maintenance costs? I'm looking at wagons and was originally set on a Mazda 6 wagon but came across a few 9-5's (05's) that look really nice. I don't want a car that's going to rape me on maintenance or repairs though. It all depends on maintenance. A newer LG 95 is generally quite affordable, and the wear parts are all fairly inexpensive. If you end up with an unmaintained turd, you're going to siphon your wallet directly into it (but get a drat nice car). Personally, though, I'd consider even newer, like an '08/'09 as with the very-last-generation going for $20k new, you can get one hell of a nearly-new for only a couple thousand more than the '05. Ask any dealer/indy to get you a warranty print, they'll (generally) do so for free. Also, shop around. There are pockets of SAAB-friendly areas that draw a premium, but go 100 miles away and the same car is thousands of dollars less.
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Nov 15, 2012 17:22
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I need to stay around a 6 to 8k budget and my search radius is 200 miles. So far the Mazda 6 is the front runner because of overall reliability with lower costs, the Saab and Volvo wagons are a lot nicer, but seem to come with more of a risk and higher costs overall. I'll be doing a lot more research it seems.
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Nov 15, 2012 18:19
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Viggen posted:I'm a bit surprised that you did not have the PCV#6 update, since that has been around since 2005/2006. Glad to hear you weren't sludged. It has PCV#6 now  . Not sure what it had before! no idea why it hadnt been done - had one owner and had always been serviced at a saab indie specialist!. Reciepts I have show he used to spend a lot on it!It had a turbo not long before i bought it - so could that have filled the CAT with oil? I do have a spare off a lower mileage car. Will investigate after the blow is fixed! I'm going to buy a right angled drill chuck and attempt to drill the broken stud out using an insert in the hole in the manifold to centre the bit. Looks like a bastard but it is blowing quite a lot. On my last car i tried ramming sealant in the blows but it never lasted and that was a non turbo. Guess this was the first auto change. It was sticking and sometimes taking ages to change down and never used to rush to change up either! It can have another flush if it makes it to 200k! 
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Nov 15, 2012 18:32
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leica posted:I need to stay around a 6 to 8k budget and my search radius is 200 miles. So far the Mazda 6 is the front runner because of overall reliability with lower costs, the Saab and Volvo wagons are a lot nicer, but seem to come with more of a risk and higher costs overall. 8k is def. in the 2005/2006ish range. Personally, I'd pay half that and get a first gen 95 (2000 most common). So long as it has been maintained, it'll go forever. I've got nearly 200k on mine, and it drives like a 60k car. Also, there is a bit more leg room, so if you are a tall lurpy dude, your knees won't be knocking against the console. The good thing about the 6 you are looking at is that it won't be one of the ugly ones. v  vTomarse posted:It has PCV#6 now Then the indy is a turd, or the owner was. All updates previous to 6 were bad. Hell, Update 2 (or was it 3?) sucked oil hard! Tomarse posted:I'm going to buy a right angled drill chuck and attempt to drill the broken stud out using an insert in the hole in the manifold to centre the bit. Looks like a bastard but it is blowing quite a lot. On my last car i tried ramming sealant in the blows but it never lasted and that was a non turbo. It really is a PITA. The B205/B235 is a nasty one to have to do this. Half of the time you need to remove the radiator to get some wiggle room. The other half of the time, you ignore it.
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Nov 15, 2012 20:27
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Viggen posted:8k is def. in the 2005/2006ish range. Personally, I'd pay half that and get a first gen 95 (2000 most common). So long as it has been maintained, it'll go forever. I've got nearly 200k on mine, and it drives like a 60k car. Also, there is a bit more leg room, so if you are a tall lurpy dude, your knees won't be knocking against the console. Wow some of these look just as good the newer ones, with low miles too. How are the slush boxes on these things? Also any high cost maintenance stuff like timing belts and whatnot?
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Nov 16, 2012 00:26
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Viggen posted:I've never seen an inefficient cat code from an exhaust manifold issue. It's more likely that the stud is broken, and you'll have to drill it out, which is a complete pain in the rear end. That TSB revision is awesome too.
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Nov 16, 2012 02:21
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leica posted:Wow some of these look just as good the newer ones, with low miles too. How are the slush boxes on these things? Also any high cost maintenance stuff like timing belts and whatnot? They are almost bulletproof. The 4 speed slushboxes in first gen 95 and 93 will be guaranteed to survive the zombie apocalypse. I've only had ONE that was bad, and if I wasn't such a wuss about all things autotragic, I could have probably fixed it myself. The solenoids are what tend to go bad, and are only like $20/ea, and you need three. Same tranny is in the NG900, and another shadetree I know did that job themselves, and their car is still running, months later. Of course, you can pull one for like $400.. v vYour biggest single expense is the IDM/DIC (black/red spark plug topper), which is about $300 aftermarket, or $600 factory. I have always run factory until the NG900 (predecessor to the 93, two generations back), and it hasn't given me any problems within 5,000 miles. They tend to run for over 100,000 miles, but with a 10+ year old car, things die. Most of the older gen stuff is available through RockAuto, but I usually check TSS for retail prices. If I can offer any further advice in the matter:
Viggen fucked around with this message at 12:31 on Nov 16, 2012 |
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Nov 16, 2012 12:15
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SAAB dog is sick of your bullshit and is going back to bed. Go buy one. Go buy two. Go buy several. YOU HEARD ME!  
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Nov 16, 2012 19:02
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It's funny, looking at some of these 1st gen 9-5's they look really nice and are super cheap, I wonder if people are scared off from them because OMG it's an import and not Japanese. If it was a Toyota they'd be double the price. [edit] Check this out for under 4k, looks clean as hell http://tinyurl.com/bqvutzs Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Nov 17, 2012 |
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Nov 17, 2012 03:05
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I bought replacement glass for the driver-side door mirror on my '03 9-5 wagon recently, but of course it didn't come with the spring clip and I can't seem to find just the clip anywhere for sale... Anyone know where I might be able to find one, or possibly have a spare they'd be willing to part with?
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Nov 17, 2012 13:05
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 Where my chickenchee.se at? leica posted:It's funny, looking at some of these 1st gen 9-5's they look really nice and are super cheap, I wonder if people are scared off from them because OMG it's an import and not Japanese. If it was a Toyota they'd be double the price. That is a 2001 Sun Green. Sometimes it's silver, sometimes it's green. It's always awesome (although at first I balked at the paint job). This is what a 2001 Sun Green 93 SE looks like in Wyoming.  Your linked car is a B235E, the low pressure turbo (LPT). My 2000 is the same. It doesn't quite have the grunt that the Aero does, but it is still a great car. The easiest way to identify (other than the VIN and badging) is to look for the turbo boost gauge - if there isn't one, it's an LPT. Most people who start off interested get scared because of the 'sludge' issues. It's always preferable to take the car into an indy and have them do a scope check and an oil change. If the car has PCV#6 updated, it's less likely to be sludged. That car is in great shape, and 130k isn't much for a first gen 95. Keep in mind that you MAY have to put some money into it: Things that come off the top of my head: DI/IDM (spark plug coil pack) and proper resistor plugs if it doesn't have them. If it's not running resistors, personally, I'd likely write off the car right there.. ~$400 May need new serp ($20), center pulley (wear item) if it isn't shortbelted, and tensioner ($80 or so). Complete synthetic Mobil 1 flush & Filter (if scoping oil pan, might as well replace it if it's old at all - $50 or so. damaya posted:I bought replacement glass for the driver-side door mirror on my '03 9-5 wagon recently, but of course it didn't come with the spring clip and I can't seem to find just the clip anywhere for sale... Anyone know where I might be able to find one, or possibly have a spare they'd be willing to part with? Those are supposed to be reused. I'm guessing yours was completely busted. Try V&S, they're rather cheap and I'm sure they'll have a busted mirror out of their lot. Sometimes they don't want to 'part' things, like sunshade clips, but I would find it strange if they wouldn't help you out. Randy is who I orginally dealt with but I got the wrong part 4 times, so then I started dealing with Scott. Then I only got one wrong part, and one broken part. Eventually, though, I got a like-new GPS (NPS) for $75. Retail, $611.04. Viggen fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Nov 17, 2012 |
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Nov 17, 2012 17:50
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What do you mean by "proper resistor plugs"? And if the motor in these happens to be sludged, should it be written off or can it be reliably fixed? Seems I'd be better of buying from a private owner with a known history rather than a dealer.
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Nov 17, 2012 18:23
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leica posted:What do you mean by "proper resistor plugs"? And if the motor in these happens to be sludged, should it be written off or can it be reliably fixed? Sometimes people cheap out (or are stupid) and put the wrong plugs in. Using non-resistor plugs can kill your DI and can cause nasty issues. There are many alt. plugs available, but generally if the car has NGKs in it, it should be fine. The NGKBCPR6ES is generally considered the alternative for the NGKBCPR7ES, and as noted on the page, the 6s don't tend to like short trips in the cold. I've been running 6s in the NG900 (B204L) for short trips - 5,000 miles later, they're still like brand new. This is getting into sperg territory, though. If the plugs are gapped OK, and proper resistor, you should be fine. It's a case of 6/half dozen for purchase. If you find a knowledgeable SAAB owner, they may just renig on selling their car. You may end up with horror stories about how they 'had to replace an engine' - those would be the best people to avoid, since they've obviously not taken care of the car. Always check the VIN to see if it's been auctioned recently. I'd trust a SAAB indy before I'd trust a private owner, and that's why I suggest that you should - if really interested - have the thing looked over. Offer to pay half if you are REALLY interested (should be about $35). Make sure the indy scopes the oil pan if you are looking at a 'sludge year'. That'd be '98 to '03 for both the 93 and the 95. People disagree about '03 for various issues, but unless you have an '03 9440 model 93SS, just have it done, and avoid the '03 93SS anyhow, because it is an electrical nightmare. If the engine is sludged, but it is just 'starting' to sludge, you can flush it with synthetic oil every couple thousand miles and it will help - but it's best to tear the whole thing down and clean it, since you don't know how gummed up it is. this requires tearing off the valve cover, dropping the oil pan, and a lot of praying. Usually by the time the car is taken in, the oil pressure light has been on for months, and everything is coked up. If you see the oil pressure light stay on for more than a second, I would keep looking - the cars are getting cheaper, but engines are not. As usual, same standard rules for any turbo car - check for smoke on start, check history of car, etc.. Don't let this frighten you off - I bought my 2000 by the second owner in 2009, and although he was/is very good with 9000s, he didn't quite get 95s. Also, make sure to get the Harmon/Kardon audio package. The single CD/Cassette double-DIN is almost laughable these days, but the sound quality is superb!
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Nov 17, 2012 18:42
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I just went through the rest of the pictures, and I see a Turbo boost gauge: The VIN shows a B235E, not B235R. Either someone has spent a lot of money to convert this car into an Aero (DICE/TWICE replaced) after losing their keys [most likely culprit], or this car has a stolen VIN plate (just riveted to the inner fender in 2000, not sure about 2001 95). However, you have the non-aero wood grain, and the rear of the car says it is a 2.3t (lpt).  This is what mine looked like about a year ago (note the lack of the turbo gauge):  I've never seen a B235E with a boost gauge that didn't have the entire DICE/TWICE replaced.. and given a TD04 over the G17 turbo it came with. You'll be able to tell if you take it for a test drive, the TD04 growls; the G17 whines. If it is an Aero conversion, that car is worth more than $4k, in my opinion - you'll be able to sell it off to an OG95 person off one of the many SAAB forums. The TCS (traction control system) is good/bad. There are horror stories about TCS, but my 2K has never had an issue. I usually turn it off because sometimes I like to slide into corners, stop metering me at 10mph, car. That analog Onstar is also useless, and non-functional. Also, check that the struts are in good shape. Mine were original and I said 'oh screw this' and paid to have them done. They were stuck on pretty well. Going from an NG900 to an OG95 will be a little adapting.. the 2.3T is a bit peppier, but it is also a larger car, so it's not quite as fast to snap. The T7 software vs T5.5 is also a lot more advanced, and it will idle high at about 1200rpm for a minute after you start before kicking down to 800. This is by design for people who go 'start->drive' rather than letting it warm. Take it for a test drive, and see if the boost gauge works at all. If it never goes past the immediate middle 'yellow', you have one hell of a leak, or it is a LPT with a boost gauge for some reason. Replace turbo with TD04.  Also, the trunk is open. Don't forget to check the car being alarmed (active) with the trunk open and close it. If the alarm goes off, you have wiring that got bit in the trunk. If not, it's probably already repaired. It's a trivial fix, but could easily mark the car down a couple hundred bucks. E: I has a doppelganger. Viggen fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Nov 17, 2012 |
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Nov 17, 2012 19:21
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Could they just have replaced the cluster with one that had the boost gauge? Does it even work?
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Nov 18, 2012 17:38
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| # ? May 26, 2024 19:18 |
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InitialDave posted:Could they just have replaced the cluster with one that had the boost gauge? Does it even work? Not without a lot of work. There is a special level of Scandinavian insanity that goes into these cars. You can't even stick a replacement stereo in without making sure it isn't tied to another car, then reprogramming it with a specialized Tech2 PCMCIA card (which holds other SAAB stuff, of course). This would require an ECU replacement, too, and since that gauge isn't designed for a G17, you'd be reading 'off' unless you hacked your own firmware for the T7 - for most people, it's not worth the effort. This is 1 of 1 person I know who was nutty enough to do that. He sold his car about a year or so ago, as memory serves. Viggen fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Nov 18, 2012 |
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Nov 18, 2012 17:52
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