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I forget who it was in this thread, but I'd like to say thanks for suggesting to use an old electric toothbrush after a good simplegreen soak to strip paint from plastic models. I got 6 of my space marines ready for me to paint in the span of approximately an hour yesterday, and will have more ready today 
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Oct 28, 2012 16:36
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Icon Of Sin posted:I forget who it was in this thread, but I'd like to say thanks for suggesting to use an old electric toothbrush after a good simplegreen soak to strip paint from plastic models. I got 6 of my space marines ready for me to paint in the span of approximately an hour yesterday, and will have more ready today That may have been me, and you're welcome.  It's also a good tool for cleaning models as well, such as getting release agent off of resin; allows you to scrub effectively without putting so much force into it that you ruin the model.
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Oct 28, 2012 17:54
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Custom made Tomb King! Skaara the Crimson Vulture  The head was made cutting off ornaments from other tomb king's faces. The wings, body and blade are from the warsphinx kit.
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Oct 28, 2012 18:00
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I love seeing minis I haven't seen before, and kitbashes are the king I don't know where all the parts came from, but in a way that makes it even cooler. Question about metallics: I know there have been a lot of questions in the past about the 'best' metallics, but I've got a bit of spare money coming up, and in addition to W&N Series 7 0 and 00 brushes, I'm going to get a bunch of Vallejo bottles to expand the starter set I got a couple months ago. So are there really problems with the Vallejo metallics, like people ITT seem to think? In my limited experience any metallic I use looks alright to me - maybe I put it on too thick anyway? Should I chance it on a Citadel metallic to see if it's vastly different to what I've been using?
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Oct 28, 2012 18:22
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krushgroove posted:I love seeing minis I haven't seen before, and kitbashes are the king I find my VMC metallics look good once they're on there but are kind of a pain to get to cover evenly. Despite Vallejo's own directions it does seem to be better to thin them.
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Oct 28, 2012 18:35
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VGC/VMC metallics cover just fine assuming you thin them a tad, and the gold you need to mix with a brown for your first basecoat to get good coverage.
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Oct 28, 2012 18:36
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Devlan Mud posted:VGC/VMC metallics cover just fine assuming you thin them a tad, and the gold you need to mix with a brown for your first basecoat to get good coverage. Mix with brown eh? I think I'm going to be glad we had this conversation. Any particular brown?
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Oct 28, 2012 18:38
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lockout username posted:Mix with brown eh? I think I'm going to be glad we had this conversation. Any particular brown? I do a 50/50 mix of VGC Beasty Brown and VGC Glorious Gold for the first layer, followed by a thin coat of straight glorious gold, and a thin highlight of 50/50 Glorious Gold and VGC Silver when I do the gold on my Khador lately. Over black primer, of course. If I was doing it over white, I'd probably start with a coat of straight Beast Brown. It turns out decent enough for tabletop, and doesn't take forever to do. You do have to be careful when watering down the gold though, when you do the straight coat you can only really add a tiny amount of water before the paint starts to break down to much to be useful.
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Oct 28, 2012 19:00
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lockout username posted:Mix with brown eh? I think I'm going to be glad we had this conversation. Any particular brown? I also find painting a grey or brown base works well for the VMC metallics. They are pretty thick compared with the GW ones and require a bit more thinning than usual too.
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Oct 28, 2012 21:21
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OK, sounds good guys, thanks! I've never had any metallics other than 'silver' and 'gold' usually (if things are going really well I might have 'gunmetal'), so it'll be a novelty to have stuff like Polished Gold, Glorious Gold, Brassy Brass etc. at my fingertips!
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Oct 28, 2012 21:30
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I can't bring myself to finish anything. I have a bunch of models in the last few stages of painting but I kept seeing things I need to paint and do. I want to open some of my new boxes and paint them instead, but I know I'll get to this point again. Eventually my living room will be over taken by half painted, half assmebled tiny men screaming in perpetual unfinishedness. Also I'm getting really annoyed with people trying to get me to lower the price of my screamers; you're paying £4 for the paintjob on each model and it's a drat sight better than the others on ebay, stop being such rude cheapskates random strangers on the internet  . Seriously the second least expensive screamers up are £20 more expensive than mine and look like crap. I might buy a hellbrute to cheer myself up... He is super cute, like an evil heavily armed doggy.
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Oct 28, 2012 21:44
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I deal with ebay shoppers from time to time, and painting models to sell and THEN dealing with people trying to lowball me is something that would make me want to shoot myself. Maybe try something that's like 10/10 quality, like a balls-out display piece, for you to keep just for yourself?
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Oct 28, 2012 21:56
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Devlan Mud posted:I do a 50/50 mix of VGC Beasty Brown and VGC Glorious Gold for the first layer, followed by a thin coat of straight glorious gold, and a thin highlight of 50/50 Glorious Gold and VGC Silver when I do the gold on my Khador lately. Over black primer, of course. If I was doing it over white, I'd probably start with a coat of straight Beast Brown. It turns out decent enough for tabletop, and doesn't take forever to do. You do have to be careful when watering down the gold though, when you do the straight coat you can only really add a tiny amount of water before the paint starts to break down to much to be useful. richyp posted:I also find painting a grey or brown base works well for the VMC metallics. They are pretty thick compared with the GW ones and require a bit more thinning than usual too. Cool, I will try some of these here idears with my next batch of junk. Thanks!
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Oct 28, 2012 22:24
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I find not using VMC metallics solves their consistency problems.
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Oct 28, 2012 22:50
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Has anyone got any good links/examples of paint jobs for Aliens/Legion of Everblight/Tyranids? trying to drum up some examples for my Everblight and I'm flat on ideas on what to paint them as.
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Oct 28, 2012 22:57
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krushgroove posted:Maybe try something that's like 10/10 quality, like a balls-out display piece, for you to keep just for yourself? This is sort of what I do when I feel like I've hit a wall with a current project (or projects). I set them aside, find something I want to paint just for the sake of painting it, or convert, or whatever, and do that. I usually hit my stride and become productive again.
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Oct 28, 2012 23:42
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OneTrueBru posted:Not exactly the best imitation of the studio model, but he looks alright at a healthy distance. No, he looks great, the skin tones look great.
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Oct 28, 2012 23:56
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VogeGandire posted:GW metallics are still the best on the market in my eyes. I heard the golds aren't good - Gehenna's Gold in particular being especially poor.
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Oct 29, 2012 00:08
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Flying Guillotine posted:I heard the golds aren't good - Gehenna's Gold in particular being especially poor. I can attest to this. Separates like crazy. Has to be incredibly thin to be painted with properly. Coverage is garbage, and the flakes are huge. I began using it and then just started mixing in a little of an old pot of Mithril. That mix works amazing, but the Gehenna's on it's own is pretty bad.
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Oct 29, 2012 00:21
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Just decided to start up this addictive hobby. I have a couple questions before I dig to far into this. 1) Bought my first set of Warhammer Dwarf Warriors on Friday and had a chance over the weekend to take apart the sprue's and assemble the set of 16. I have a LARGE amount of extra pieces, is this a common thing? So much so that if I had the extra leg sections for the dwarfs I could easily make enough for 15+ more. 2) I am more nervous about painting the figures than I was about any other step. Mainly when it comes to the right types of paint. I didn't know if I really wanted to dive into the high end price so I picked some paints up from a Michaels craft store. Apple Barrel Acrylic Paint is what I purchased, can anyone comment on whether it is any good? Or should I hold off and make a trip to the hobby shop that I was informed about that has a massive Warhammer section.| Sorry if this has been listed somewhere else, I have read through some of the thread but I have barely cracked the surface of this enormous thread.
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Oct 29, 2012 04:29
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Anyone ever used decals? I've gotten into Dust Tactics, and decided I might as well paint them myself. I'll probably end up covering the existing markings, so I'll probably buy a sheet of these to put the proper markings back on my walkers. Then I guess I spray them with the dullcote? I've been led to believe the models are already primed (they come assembled) so hopefully that will make it easier for some with zero experience/art talent (me)
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Oct 29, 2012 05:30
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It's pretty common to get a shitload of extra goodies. It's nice for customising dudes in other boxes as you buy them... and yeah it's often the legs that are the limiting factor. I can't comment on those paints, but do make sure you undercoat before you do anything, either with a spray primer or something like gesso. Spray is my preference, I usually use Army Painter's coloured primers.
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Oct 29, 2012 05:35
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FallenSystm posted:Just decided to start up this addictive hobby. I have a couple questions before I dig to far into this. I'm less than a year in and fairly casual compared to many, but I feel like I can help answer your questions. 1) If it's anything like 40K, yes, it's completely normal for legs (and torsos) to be the limiting factor, with shitloads of arm, weapon and/or head bits left over. 2) I haven't actually tried craft paints compared to miniature/modeling paints but my perception is that people are pretty critical of their quality for modeling. I can say for sure that compared to what you will be spending on plastic/resin, some good miniature paints are a drop in the bucket price-wise. You really don't need insanely diverse paint sets if you are just painting your first troops for the tabletop, and the little pots/bottles that are $3.xx will last for 30 times their price in dollars on miniatures. So there's really no reason to cheap out. Though if you are willing to learn how to use dropper bottles, I'm a real fan of Reaper paints over Citadel, both to save yourself a few pennies and to avoid giving GW money anyplace you don't absolutely have to. Echoing the recommendation to spray prime your models, but you can just use hardware store primer for that; I haven't priced Army Painter primer but I imagine it probably has a markup due to being a 'hobby product' and the normal $4 a can stuff works just fine, at least for some brands (I use Rustoleum). JerryLee fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Oct 29, 2012 |
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Oct 29, 2012 05:38
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JerryLee posted:
Even the non-namebrand cheap spray primer for a couple bucks does miracles. With Army Painter and the other hobby-niche spray primers, you have to check to see if your humidity is not too high, the temperature of the area is not too hot or too cold, and then examine a small animal's entrails to predict how the spray will react to the omens. With non-ninche paint, you can loving spray prime a model under a waterfall of grease and water and get a perfect coat.
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Oct 29, 2012 06:08
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Can anyone confirm if Army Painter's anti-shine matte varnish is a good, cheaper alternative to Testor's Dullcote? The TerranScapes guy says it is but I'd like to hear some of your opinions. Also, any recommendations for a gloss varnish spray? Testor's Glosscote seems pretty pricey for the size of the can.
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Oct 29, 2012 06:17
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Yeah there can definitely be issues with my AP sprays if the weather is bad, but otherwise I find them very good (if overpriced as mentioned). I like them because I use a lot of AP's regular paints and they match perfectly. I'm a pretty lazy painter though, so I really have no business being in this thread at all
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Oct 29, 2012 06:18
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Counterpoint: I did experience problems when I tried a new brand of spray primer that I grabbed because it was like half a buck cheaper. It came out all rough and pebbly. I stripped the primer off and cleaned the models up, then did a test with a can of Rustoleum vs. the new brand. The new brand hosed up again but the Rustoleum was neat and smooth (well, for primer coats) even on two different models from the same batch. Basically what I'm saying is that not all cheap primers are created equal. The good news is that if you do learn that one of them is bad, you'll have paid $2-4 for the lesson, instead of hobby-brand prices. Amusingly, I do pay the price for those tiny cans of Dullcote, but it's a hell of a lot easier to justify the premium price for the finish on a model with a lot of work put into it compared to a primer coat. I've heard enough horror stories about varnishes other than Dullcote that I don't want to start rolling the dice on generic brand matte sprays. JerryLee fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Oct 29, 2012 |
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Oct 29, 2012 06:19
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Sir DonkeyPunch posted:Anyone ever used decals? Simple, lay-man's version: Use a brush to wipe off any potential dust that might get caught under the decal. Then you paint on a layer of gloss varnish, which will give you a more even foundation for the decal. Once dry, I paint on some water on the area where I will put the decal. Slide on the decal with a brush, and put a bit of paper towel to the edge of the area you painted with water. The paper will suck up the water, and leave the decal stuck to the varnish. Let it dry, and cover it with gloss varnish for protection. Then put on matte varnish to kill the sheen. Go with the pro version: Do as above, but instead of using water, get some Micro Sol. This will actually melt the decal, so you don't get that plastic look. Then, you put on Micro Set, which will make it solid again. This, combined with some practice, will make the decal look like it is painted on.
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Oct 29, 2012 06:49
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FallenSystm posted:Just decided to start up this addictive hobby. I have a couple questions before I dig to far into this. 1) Bits are one of the best things about GW kits! Yes, it's very normal to have a lot of bits left over. Make sure you keep them in a bits box because I guarantee that they'll come in useful in the future for conversions. You can also often find online shops selling separate bits, including packs of legs. They are much more expensive but useful if you just want a single bit out of a whole box. Sometimes you can get lucky and find a set of legs for much less than another box would cost you. I bought an Ork Nobz box set which comes with 5 and has enough bits for another 5 on top of that. I managed to snag another set of 5 bodies for £5 on ebay. 2) I hate to post from Reddit, but these are generic craft paints:  Keep the paints you bought, they'll still be very useful for terrain but do go to the hobby shop you mentioned and get some proper mini paints.
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Oct 29, 2012 09:12
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Daedleh posted:...very useful for terrain but do go to the hobby shop you mentioned and get some proper mini paints. Quoting this. Cheap craft store acrylics has a good place in any hobbyists arsenal, as you'll go broke if you paint your boards and terrain with miniature paints. But the cheap acrylics are partly cheap because they use crappy pigments and those pigments are more diluted, which means that the paints are not suitable to be watered down. So they don't really work for fine detail, but they work well for painting a hill, a 2'x6' table, or a patchwork of craters for your space men to hide in.
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Oct 29, 2012 09:31
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serious gaylord posted:I find not using VMC metallics solves their consistency problems. In the interest of balance, what metallics do you use, then?
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Oct 29, 2012 10:09
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There are complete poo poo craft paints and there are really good ones. Looking at that image, I can almost guarantee the guy never washed his brushes or thinned his paints. You don't get globby chunks like that, that's dried paint in his brush. The problem is that you have less pigment so you can get poor coverage of dark areas with lighter colors. And since everybody in miniatures starts with no skill, a can of black primer, and Walmart paints it's easy to demonize the fifty cent bottles of Apple Barrel.
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Oct 29, 2012 12:01
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My terrible secret, I use a lot of 50 cent craft paints. Used GW washes (basically liquid talent) and I thin my paints with matte medium instead of water and do multiple layers. Are they harder to get good results with? Yes. Can they work? Well they do the job for me.   I admit I dream of being able to get a nice set of good paints one day. A poor ham can dream.
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Oct 29, 2012 12:24
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JerryLee posted:2) I haven't actually tried craft paints compared to miniature/modeling paints but my perception is that people are pretty critical of their quality for modeling. I can say for sure that compared to what you will be spending on plastic/resin, some good miniature paints are a drop in the bucket price-wise. You really don't need insanely diverse paint sets if you are just painting your first troops for the tabletop, and the little pots/bottles that are $3.xx will last for 30 times their price in dollars on miniatures. So there's really no reason to cheap out. Though if you are willing to learn how to use dropper bottles, I'm a real fan of Reaper paints over Citadel, both to save yourself a few pennies and to avoid giving GW money anyplace you don't absolutely have to. Thanks for the reply, it's funny I spent mid level quality money on everything but the paint I guess that is why I my gut was telling me to ask about the quality. I will as suggested by another save the paints I purchased for terrain, but head over to the hobby store and get some miniature paints. All paints no matter what quality should still be thinned with water, correct? Also on the note of the primer, I am setting up to prime my guys this evening after completing the gluing process and being happy with the dwarf army I have amassed. I did purchase Krylon Black Flat as suggested in the OP, is this not recommended anymore? Daedleh posted:1) Bits are one of the best things about GW kits! Yes, it's very normal to have a lot of bits left over. Make sure you keep them in a bits box because I guarantee that they'll come in useful in the future for conversions. I figured this was the case, I separated all the styles into small snack size zip locks and set them aside. I will be looking at them in the future.
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Oct 29, 2012 17:54
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FallenSystm posted:
Hit up a craft store and invest in a cheap little bead container with separate compartments. They're awesome for storing bits, especially if you're a pack-rat who loves conversions.
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Oct 29, 2012 18:36
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VoodooXT posted:Can anyone confirm if Army Painter's anti-shine matte varnish is a good, cheaper alternative to Testor's Dullcote? The TerranScapes guy says it is but I'd like to hear some of your opinions. I use Army Painters anti-shine. I've never used Testor's so I'm not sure how it stands up to it. But it's worked great for me. Goes on easy, and gives a nice finish. I would recommend it
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Oct 29, 2012 18:45
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Any suggestions for what I can soak my Aztek airbrush tips in to clean them out? I've got an Aztek set I haven't used in at least ten years and amazingly you can still pick up the parts for these, even in the UK, so I'm going to get a painting mask and set up a temporary booth in my man-cave to see what I can get done (hopefully, vehicles!). I'm planning to pick up some ammonia-based window cleaner (although I do have straight ammonia, I'd just need to look up how to mix it) and some isopropyl alcohol from the chemist's. Also, any suggestions for a primer to use in the airbrush? I have the Citadel Imperial Primer, is that about it as far as primer in a pot? (e: found some: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190623701041?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649) Apart from vehicles, the other main reason I'm looking at getting the airbrush going is because the weather outside is going to be poo poo for the next 9 months, and I'll need to get my stuff done somehow. krushgroove fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Oct 29, 2012 |
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Oct 29, 2012 18:57
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Water should be fine if you stick with acrylic. Aersol ammonia isn't awesome and it doesn't hurt to avoid it if you can. The only reason to go to town with something like that is if you deliberately let paint dry on the airbrush. But your basic workflow should be--have a bath of water nearby, drop any spare nozzles/paint covered parts in there as soon as you're not working, and run water through the airbrush every few minutes between changing paint colors or doing big batches of dudes/large surfaces. The secret to keeping an airbrush working is staying ahead of the maintenance, not getting killer solvents. I mean, for one thing, most airbrushes won't stay water tight if you keep running really nasty stuff through them. Also, the more you need to rely on that, the more often you'll be trying to scrub something, and then you run the risk of bending a needle or whatever. Kid gloves + a lot of rinsing should keep it working great for a long time. Anyway, that's just my experience. I guess there's probably people who know how to resuscitate encrusted airbrushes safely, and I bet a good metal and non-reactive rubber gasket airbrush can handle a lot of volatile crap going through it.
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Oct 29, 2012 20:17
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Thanks a bunch TCM (I do miss your mod-banned OT-but-eventually-on-topic rambles), I was wondering about what to drop the tips in to clear out any unwanted dried gunk though. Since I haven't operated the airbrush in ages I thought it might be a good idea to soak the tips and pots, etc., in something just to give them a wash and a clean.
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Oct 29, 2012 20:25
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While you guys are busy churning out beautiful models apparently by the hour, I've slowly been losing my mind over the ghost ark. It's the first model I've been painting for 3 years, so I'm a a little rusty (not that I was any good to begin with), but the amount of work this model demands is insane. By now I've been painting it for about 30 hours, and I'm still not done! The fact that I recently saw a video of some guy who painted up 4k points of 'crons in 30 days and said he "used to take 2-3 hours per ark, but has it down to 1" didn't really improve my mood. Here's a WIP:  the highlights and flowy bits are a little more pronounced in person. The tail sections's also mostly done except for the engine parts, where I want to try my hands on OSL! Oh joy. Luebbi fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Oct 29, 2012 |
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Oct 29, 2012 20:34
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