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Thaaaaaaat was awesome. Yes i'm going to buy some of my photos, waiting to see how the others from the other photographers came out first, once they go online.
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Oct 21, 2012 04:02
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Viggen posted:Anything is an improvement from I....paid for that  .
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Oct 23, 2012 18:01
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. Anything. Every time I see one, I just can't help but think "You.. paid for that."
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cmdrpinky posted:Looks almost crossoverish ala the subaru outback. Hey now, let's not forget the old title of the thread  I was running mine on very...different roads this weekend:  I really don't think they meant this car to be driving up and down cotton fields.
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Oct 23, 2012 19:27
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Double posting in The Slowest Megathread. So I've had an intermittent airbag light for a long loving time, but recently it's been on at least as often as off. Wife just took the car to the dealer to get diagnosed, apparently it's a wiring fault under the seat. I'm going to have them fix that... and then they mentioned that one of the motor mounts is toast too. Does anyone know which one is #3? Sounds like it might be the upper one on the passenger side. So now I have an excuse to buy some aftermarket ones! IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Oct 25, 2012 |
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Oct 25, 2012 21:52
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IOwnCalculus posted:Double posting in The Slowest Megathread. Was your airbag the one in the dash? Mine just turned on last week and was on for about 6 days, then randomly just shut off. 
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Oct 26, 2012 14:39
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Yeah, the dash light. If I get time this weekend I'll poke around and see if I can find where they repaired it - apparently it's not uncommon to damage this wire if you move the seat back and forth a lot, and my wife and I alternate between having the seat all the way back and nearly all the way forward  Ordered up a passenger side mount and a rear motor mount from James Barone; I'm going to skip the transmission mount for the time being because I don't see anyone saying "oh this was a huge help" for low durometers like I'm buying, and it's a bit of a pain in the rear end to get to.
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Oct 26, 2012 15:51
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, the dash light. If I get time this weekend I'll poke around and see if I can find where they repaired it - apparently it's not uncommon to damage this wire if you move the seat back and forth a lot, and my wife and I alternate between having the seat all the way back and nearly all the way forward That's funny you say that because I think (not sure..) my light went off when I laid my seat all the way down one day. I don't recall seeing it after that until I noticed it was off. Maybe a clip came loose..? I have the rear mm from CP-e in 75mm. I'm *insanely* picky about vibrations - as in, "oh god what's wrong withmycarwhysitdoingthat" ... 75mm is 100% fine to have. And oh god the power to the ground after is awesome.
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Oct 26, 2012 16:44
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Timmy Cruise posted:Thought this is the best place to ask. FYI - the 15s did fit. I got General Altimax Arctic with the studs. Funny how they were as much as the Nokian Hakke. 5's I have on the Audi, but with wheels and shipping...
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Oct 27, 2012 19:25
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Sublime Process posted:I have the rear mm from CP-e in 75mm. I'm *insanely* picky about vibrations - as in, "oh god what's wrong withmycarwhysitdoingthat" ... 75mm is 100% fine to have. And oh god the power to the ground after is awesome. Good to know, I went with 70 on each. Should actually have them in hand on Monday. Annoyingly, the car tonight popped P0401 for insufficent EGR flow again, not even a year / 20k after I cleaned it. Tells me either the valve has failed or it's just gunked up again already.  I'm seriously considering getting a tuner just to eliminate P0401. What's the cheapest option out there, the Accessport? Alternatively, I may use cleaning it again as an excuse to pull and clean the intake manifold, clean the intake valves, and replace the theromstat (it hasn't been cold enough out to throw any too-cold codes again yet, but it's only a matter of time) since those tasks all go well together. If the EGR valve itself is shot, though, I'm buying a drat tuner; $530 for an Accessport on eBay, or $400 for an EGR valve. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Oct 28, 2012 |
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Oct 28, 2012 04:01
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IOwnCalculus posted:EGR stuff Good call on the engine mount. I'm a huge advocate for upgrade motor mounts. Ever since I did mine I tell every MZR person I meet to do it. It shifts like an entirely different car. I'm in the same boat on the EGR. My emissions/inspection is due this December so I will either need to clean it before, or delete it with an access port/dash hawk. I'm leaning towards the delete with tuner (probably the AP). I'll upgrade the TIP and intake at the same time anyhow. Since I got my car paid off last month stuff like this seems easier to justify.
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Oct 29, 2012 04:21
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The cuurrrrrse bit me in the neck earlier this month. My '06 3 sedan got sandwiched between a Hilux and a GMC, and got totaled. It wasn't fast, but it was fun to toss into corners, and it was paid for. But I need something to drive for winter. Can you fit 16's on a second gen MS3? Because I'm going to need winter tires.
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Oct 29, 2012 05:57
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I think it's doable, but it very much depends on the wheel. I don't think the second-gen MS3 brakes are any bigger, but it's down to millimeters: I know people have run FD wheels on the first-gen MS3.
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Oct 29, 2012 06:12
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No issues with 16" steelies on my first gen MS3. No changes in brake size anyway. It is a pretty tight fit, but I've ran them for 4 winters without a problem. Not the best picture but you can sort of see the caliper 
opengl fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Oct 29, 2012 |
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Oct 29, 2012 06:24
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Yeah, all the shops told me that 16s would not fit on my 2010 MS3 but I bought them anyways, and they fit fine. It's a tight squeeze over the front calipers but I'm going on my fourth winter now.
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Oct 29, 2012 06:44
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Bought some steelies from a mazda 6 and I had to file on the front calipers a little bit. That's how close it was.
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Oct 29, 2012 23:17
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IOwnCalculus posted:What's the cheapest option out there, the Accessport? AP is $595 through StreetUnit or Edge Autosport. For something like an AP, I'd buy new so that I wouldn't run the risk of someone shady. Especially if they don't un-marry it from their car.
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Nov 3, 2012 15:07
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I actually was still looking at new ones (there's a seller with 100% positive feedback selling them NIB for under $530 shipped) since when I looked, there weren't any used listings. There are now, though...the question is do I feel confident enough in eBay's protection policies.
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Nov 3, 2012 16:44
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Double-posting since I finally got my JBR mounts installed. If you want to see lots of pics of what amounts to a pleasantly simple job, check my non-project thread. These things are ridiculously solid looking / feeling.  I didn't know it when I came across this but the passenger mount is liquid filled. Mine had ruptured and was squirting instead of supporting.  Of some concern is how much of the liquid apparently got sprayed onto the alternator - it was pretty well caked in black gunk. Hopefully I don't have to dive back in here to replace it.  All bolted down. Took remarkably little leverage to get it all lined up. The Snapon trim tool the dealership left in the car three years ago by accident works great for holding the mount at the recommended 3/16" gap between the subframe and the mount!  Rear mount time. Five easily-accessed bolts and it's out. The corrosion on the one running through the bushing itself is slightly concerning; even now I'm debating figuring out the specs for that bolt and buying a replacement.  Turns out the old mount was failing here too. It didn't take much pressure at all on the center to make that cut open up.  One of the few times where "installation is the reverse of removal" is actually appropriate. Trip report? Vibration increase is absolutely noticeable, even if it's not bad, but much more noticeable is the drastic increase in engine noise. It's also not bad, but it is pretty significant. These are the softest mounts that JBR makes, and some of the softest on the market (at least one of the other manufacturers won't even do less than 88 durometer for MS3s) but there is absolutely no mistaking the car for one with the factory mounts. Of course, that's also a good thing - the engine and transmission have always been flapping around up there, even when I bought the car with only 24k on the clock. I haven't had a chance to properly flog it yet but I absolutely believe everyone who says it feels like they're able to actually make use of the power the car has since the drivetrain is no longer trying to rip itself free. So they're staying.
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Nov 4, 2012 07:18
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Yeah, the rattling will stop after a bit, just needs to work it out in there. This is the first mod any MS3 owner should get, at least the rear motor mount.
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Nov 4, 2012 07:48
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5 bolts for the RMM? If I recall it was only 2?
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Nov 4, 2012 16:42
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I plan on picking up a RMM for my '12 MS3, I have a Cobb SRI on there, and plan on getting some Koni Yellows for suspension. That'll probably be the end of my modding. Also, just picked up some Blizzaks for this winter here in SLC. 18" and price out the door from Discount Tire was 1010$. I got them to price match the Bridgestone website (lol) because Discount has them for like 280$ a tire, whereas the Bridgestone site is 211$ a tire... I'll keep them on my stock 18" rims. When I pick up new summer tires next May I will just buy some new 18" wheels too. That way I'll have a dedicated set of snow tires and a dedicated set of summer tires.
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Nov 4, 2012 16:53
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Bovril Delight posted:5 bolts for the RMM? If I recall it was only 2? You have to remove the bracket that holds the mount to the back of the engine.
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Nov 4, 2012 17:44
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Hmmm. It's been awhile but I thought I just did two bolts for the mount itself then put in the new mount.
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Nov 4, 2012 18:31
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Probably depends on the design of the mount, but it'd be tight trying to wedge it into its home and around the transmission bracket at the same time. Not like any of the three bolts holding the bracket on are hard to deal with at all.
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Nov 4, 2012 19:11
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Had Blizzak's put on my spare wheels today. It dawned on my when I picked up the car I have over $2500 just in wheels and tires now. It better snow every day from here on out.
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Nov 9, 2012 08:09
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Well, the continuing delays on having my Genpoo show up may be beneficial in one way. If I can figure out how to drive it after heavy snowfall without torquesteering into a tree, I should have no problem once the snow goes away. (I have to stop using that as an example, my brother still seems to be a bit sore about it.)
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Nov 9, 2012 16:46
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I've put winter tire packages and remote starts on three new Speed3's this week. Good luck to them... The amount of snow we get and lack of plowing here is a crappy combination. SiB fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Nov 9, 2012 |
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Nov 9, 2012 22:08
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A funny little thing (gremlin?) has popped up in my '09 Speed3 recently. I haven't quite figured out what conditions it occurs in, but it's happened a few times. I'll put the key in the ignition switch past 'On' to 'Start' and as I'm cranking the car, and all of the dash lights are coming on, the right turn-signal indicator will start flashing as if I had turned the car off with the right turn signal on. Except, the turn signal stalk is in the off position. Have any of you guys heard of or encountered this? I'm still under the bumper to bumper warranty so I'm thinking about taking it in. The only problem is that this seems like one of those issues where the techs will just say that they can't reproduce it and I'll be SOL.
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Nov 12, 2012 09:03
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I would have your battery checked. In all three mazdas I've had (6S, wife's 6i, and my speed6) all three had the instrument cluster do something whacky right before the battery crapped out. I'm talking it weirded out, cranked over fine and then the next day dead.
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Nov 13, 2012 06:29
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Somewhat Heroic posted:I would have your battery checked. In all three mazdas I've had (6S, wife's 6i, and my speed6) all three had the instrument cluster do something whacky right before the battery crapped out. I'm talking it weirded out, cranked over fine and then the next day dead. That's an interesting idea, but I replaced the battery back in April. Still, I can have it checked.
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Nov 13, 2012 15:29
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I'm currently looking at Mazda 6 wagons, anything to look out for on the 6's in general? So far I've seen one with an auto, probably going to see another with a manual, how stout are the trannys (auto and manual) in these things? Also opinions on the 3.0 V6? I'm hoping with manual that it's revvy and fun to drive. [edit] also what's the deal with the cd player/climate controls, is there any way around that for an aftermarket deck? Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Nov 13, 2012 |
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Nov 13, 2012 23:18
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leica posted:I'm currently looking at Mazda 6 wagons, anything to look out for on the 6's in general? So far I've seen one with an auto, probably going to see another with a manual, how stout are the trannys (auto and manual) in these things? The V6 has decent power but isn't very peppy, at least not by comparison of the 2.3T. I've seen very expensive kits to add an aftermarket stereo, it's easier to just get the Auto Link so you can plug in an iPod.
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Nov 13, 2012 23:28
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So, two questions of my own: does anyone know what the spec (or part #, even) is for the vertical bolt that holds the RMM to the chassis? And second, if I'm taking the intake manifold off to clean the valves, what else should I be doing as a "while I'm in there"? I'm probably going to replace the PCV valve proactively as part of this, anything else that's a lot easier with the intake off that might be a good idea on what will probably be a 120k mile MS3 before I get the time for this?
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Nov 13, 2012 23:32
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Rhyno posted:The V6 has decent power but isn't very peppy, at least not by comparison of the 2.3T. I've seen very expensive kits to add an aftermarket stereo, it's easier to just get the Auto Link so you can plug in an iPod. No turbo four option for the wagon And if the kit looks good I'd be willing to spend the money depending on how good the Bose system sounds which I'm guessing isn't very good. Either way, found a sweet deal for a manual wagon, but gotta sell a vehicle first.
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Nov 13, 2012 23:37
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Could you actually get the V6 with a manual? That always seems like a rare combination.
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Nov 13, 2012 23:56
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leica posted:No turbo four option for the wagon Oh yeah, had there been a Speed6 Wagon I would have gone after that. The head unit is a total bitch to replace because it's integrated into your clock and climate controls. Everything else is easy to replace though. Look into installing a second HU in the glovebox or under the passenger seat and run it with a remote. I also didn't realize you could get a manual in the wagon, got a link so I can check out this beast?
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Nov 14, 2012 00:23
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Rhyno posted:Oh yeah, had there been a Speed6 Wagon I would have gone after that. Are you sure they're integrated (in the first gen)? This pic of the interior of a 2006 makes it look like the system they used in the other contemporary Mazdas of the period, which is not integrated. http://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2012/09/26/20/48/2006_mazda_mazda6_s_sport_4dr_sedan-pic-7692165350612978153.jpeg edit: Oh I know what you mean. The display on climate control models. Yeah, I don't know exactly how that works. Sorry. Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Nov 14, 2012 |
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Nov 14, 2012 02:38
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Rhyno posted:I also didn't realize you could get a manual in the wagon, got a link so I can check out this beast? Hopefully I'll have it in the driveway tomorrow and I'll take pics 
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Nov 14, 2012 05:41
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As I mentioned before I've had a 2005 6S, my wife was driving (and still is) a 2005 6i when we first met. 2 years ago this December I traded in mine for a 2006 speed6 sport. I'll say this: The 6S had the 6 speed auto. The first gear was almost hilariously low and had great snap off the line initially. The interior build/quality felt pretty good. I traded mine in at about 130K on the odo and it was needing new struts but was still decent. No oil/fluid leaks. Working on if was easy as far as brakes, spark plugs, etc. oil changes sucked on placement of the oil filter. It would drop oil right onto the front subframe piece. It sounded good, definitely had better freeway passing power than the 6i. For road trips it was a beast! Mileage was pretty good thanks to the 6 speed. The first year I owned it I drove from salt lake to Colorado and averaged like 33mpg. I find the Bose system more than okay. I had it in the 6S and in my speed. I'm no audiophile but I am not interested in bleeding ear drums and not having conversations while driving. It bumps good enough for everyone inside the car. The stock stereo in the 6i is also decent enough for me. I've used the Audiolink iPod adapter I bought and the rpm store website. Now I use the GoGroove 2 I found on amazon and stream our iPhone 5s via Bluetooth. The design ages well I think, parts are easy and cheap to find. My wife's car is about 102K now and the speed6 has 70K and both are paid off. We really have no desire to buy new cars. They're great, dependable, and practical.
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Nov 14, 2012 05:55
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So this white 2012 MS3 has been squatting in my parking stall every night since Monday. I think I like it. Shortshift the poo poo out of it and it's basically my old 2L with stiffer springs, and there's a good deal of hoooOOOOLYSHIT available if I don't. A Weestrom is about the highest performance machine I've ever owned so getting used to turbo is going to be entertaining. I should have pictures in another day or two, though it's already filthy from winter road grime.
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Nov 15, 2012 05:11
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