|
global tetrahedron posted:Ah, gotcha. Doesn't taste bad, just doesn't taste like what I was going for. I'll try mashing lower and using like 4 oz of Crystal next time, then. 1.012 is a good FG for a pale, a little high for an IPA, IMO. you had the right idea to use crystal 20 instead of a sweeter crystal malt. May I ask you to post your Hop schedule? With your ingredients and gravity I would imagine the sweetness could be related to your hops (or lack thereof).
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2012 16:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 03:27 |
|
|
So my Munich dunkel is stuck at 1.020 which is way too high. Would rousing the yeast do anything or should I just pitch a fresh vial?
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2012 17:00
|
|
|
tesilential posted:1.012 is a good FG for a pale, a little high for an IPA, IMO. you had the right idea to use crystal 20 instead of a sweeter crystal malt. Yeah, I dig the Crystal 20 overall. It looks beautiful in the glass, a nice golden color. Here's my hop schedule (recall that this is for 2.5 gallons:) boil 60 min 1 Cascade ~ pellet 5.5 » 37.3 boil 30 min ½ Cascade ~ pellet 5.5 » 14.3 boil 30 min ½ Glacier ~ pellet 5.6 » 14.6 boil 15 min ½ Cascade ~ pellet 5.5 » 9.3 boil 1 min ½ Glacier ~ pellet 5.6 » 0.8 Bitterness 76.3 IBU ƒ: Tinseth 6 HBU BU:GU 1.11
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2012 17:04
|
|
|
internet celebrity posted:So my Munich dunkel is stuck at 1.020 which is way too high. Would rousing the yeast do anything or should I just pitch a fresh vial? Diacetyl rest. I pull all my lagers around that gravity and let them finish at room temp to clean up and attenuate fully. global tetrahedron posted:Yeah, I dig the Crystal 20 overall. It looks beautiful in the glass, a nice golden color. Here's my hop schedule (recall that this is for 2.5 gallons:) Ok, you are lacking in late hops and dry hop additions. Realize that once you turn off the heat the wort is still very hot and unless you have a great chiller and can get it cooled in less than 10 minutes, your 1 minute addition really becomes a 15 min (or worse) addition. Get my drift? For hoppy beers I throw in 1-3 ounces (per 5 gallon) in after the flame has been removed for several minutes. Usually when the wort is around 190ish. This gives you LOADS more flavor and aroma then any boil addition ever could. In fact for a lot of my beers I am only doing a FWH or 60 min bittering addition, then a couple large additions after flameout. Again the flavor and aroma are BIG this way. In your case, assuming it took you 30 minutes to get to pitching temps, all your hop additions contributed essentially just bitterness, not much aroma and flavor. The 1 minute addition did contribute a bit of each, but as you have noticed it was lacking. Also make sure to throw at least an ounce of hops in your 2.5 gal batch for dry hopping. Makes a huge difference in perceived floral hoppy qualities. If you bottled, it's too late, if you kegged, open it up and throw in a hop bag. tesilential fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Oct 29, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2012 17:06
|
|
|
hellfaucet posted:Neat, what yeast did you use? I've got a mix of Roeselare and WB-06 (Fermentis' wheat yeast) that I had been sitting on after I pitched the former in a wheat beer I made (and loved). Recipe for the interested: http://beersmithrecipes.com/viewrecipe/47958/brown-barn It came out a lot darker than I had wanted, but I won't cry over it. Smelled like toasted sexy-times. Pretty excited about the brew. Second guessing my yeast selection, but I could always brew it again with us-05 or something. We'll see how it turns out.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 00:15
|
|
|
Jacobey000 posted:I've got a mix of Roeselare and WB-06 (Fermentis' wheat yeast) that I had been sitting on after I pitched the former in a wheat beer I made (and loved). After visiting Jolly Pumpkin and tasting their sours this weekend I'm pretty interested to see how your beer turns out. That Roeselare is a sour true and true, you might be in for some awesome pellicle pics though. I loved JP's sours and spent all last night reading about them and open-fermentation techniques. Sounds awesome dude. hellfaucet fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Oct 30, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 00:27
|
|
|
I've been obsessed with JP ever since their beers made it to my area a few months ago. Those guys can do no wrong in my book. For some reason the vast majority of my non-beer liking friends/family seem to love sours, even though they can't normally stand anything stronger than Yuengling. My new BOGO carboys are now for sour experimentation 
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 01:13
|
|
|
I'm glad more people on this forum are getting into sours. There's not enough people able/willing to devote time/space/adventure in order to make them. I haven't brought any to completion yet, all of mine are still aging, but I've tried to experiment with variables as much as I can. Find someone who owns there home or has an extended lease if you're unable to devote the space towards sours. It's also a fun brewing process to explore with a friend. I've done quite a few batches, but as I said, I'm still waiting on all of them. With a friend: Northern Brewer Kriek NB Oud Bruin de Table NB Chateua Northern Lambic Grand Cru Myself: La Folie clone from Brew Your Own Jolly Pumpkin's La Roja Clone Raspberry Lambic Blueberry Lambic Berliner Weiss Jolly Pumpkin Oro de Calablaza clone Jolly Pumpkin Dark Dawn clone With almost all of these, I've used Roselare, Lamblic blend, or Berliner Weiss blends from Wyeast and White Labs. For most of my clones, I've used bottle dregs that I've either built up using starters or just dumped into the carboy. I'm coming up on the sixth month mark for a few of these, so I plan to start tasting them and measuring their gravity to see how they're progressing.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 04:05
|
|
|
I want to try to make basically everything I like. I need more vessels... seriously. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 04:13
|
|
|
Anyone have a recipe they can recommend for a sour with a 2-row base and not too much else in the way of additives? I'm thinking something along the lines of a sour pale, maybe like a Beatification or something light and funky that'll be ready around Xmas 2013? Also, to resurface my previous question, if anyone's used oil extract in their beer, at which point did you add it, before/during/after the boil? I've found that a few drops in a commercial saison and a few drops in my RIS resulted in two totally different influences in the glass. Viscosity is a huge factor, but I'd love to hear stories from anyone that's added oils prior to bottling/kegging.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 04:22
|
|
|
hellfaucet posted:I want to try to make basically everything I like. I need more vessels... seriously. I was initially bothered by the high cost for each batch. Buying a new carboy is expensive as well as devoting some equipment for sour batches, but on a per bottle basis, I'm looking at beer that's much cheaper than buying it commercially. More so than regular homebrewing, sours are far more expensive than the ability to make them yourself. It's much more of a crap shoot and you don't have as much control over your end product, but you can still make great beer if you follow the right guidelines. I don't know how my clones will turn out, but generally using bottle dregs will produce similar beers with dominant bugs repeating their flavors.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 06:24
|
|
|
So I'm finally ready to do my first batch ever tomorrow, and as I imagine many of you did, I have a few hangups on how to make sure this all goes down well. First, since I'm doing a partial boil, should I boil the top-off water before adding it to the fermenter? I'm on city water, and I never have any issues drinking from the tap. I've seen plenty of posts on other forums saying they've used straight tap water, but right now I guess I'm just paranoid about infection. Second, since I went with glass carboys, is using a funnel pretty much the only way to do the transfer, or could I conceivably pour the wort into my bottling bucket and pour it into the carboy from there?
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 06:40
|
|
|
Infidel Castro posted:So I'm finally ready to do my first batch ever tomorrow, and as I imagine many of you did, I have a few hangups on how to make sure this all goes down well. 1) You can get away with using tap water. Municipal supply water is pretty sanitary and chances of infection are very very low. On the other hand, the chlorine or chloramine that are used to sanitize the water can cause off-flavors in beer, so you may want to consider using bottled water for that. 2) You mean using the spigot on the bottling bucket? That might work, I've never considered it before. But it's another thing to sanitize. I would probably just use the (sanitized) funnel. Make sure you cool your wort before putting it in the carboy - hot wort + cool glass = shattered carboy = wasted beer + personal injury.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 06:49
|
|
|
Could you experiment with sours in a 5L demijohn? I'm interested in the idea but can be bothered getting another set of big heavy expensive vessels to leave around for months on end
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 06:55
|
|
|
Infidel Castro posted:So I'm finally ready to do my first batch ever tomorrow, and as I imagine many of you did, I have a few hangups on how to make sure this all goes down well. On the rare occasion that I need topoff water now, I always just go straight from the tap because I have city water, and like you, I have no problem drinking it straight. If I was in any way questioning about my water source, I would either buy gallon jugs or boil it first, but it sounds like you don't have that problem. I typically use a funnel or just siphon the chilled wort out of the pot into the carboy, though I suppose a bottling bucket could work.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 07:28
|
|
|
Infidel Castro posted:First, since I'm doing a partial boil, should I boil the top-off water before adding it to the fermenter? I'm on city water, and I never have any issues drinking from the tap. Infidel Castro posted:Second, since I went with glass carboys, is using a funnel pretty much the only way to do the transfer, or could I conceivably pour the wort into my bottling bucket and pour it into the carboy from there?
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 08:21
|
|
|
Jo3sh posted:1) You can get away with using tap water. Municipal supply water is pretty sanitary and chances of infection are very very low. On the other hand, the chlorine or chloramine that are used to sanitize the water can cause off-flavors in beer, so you may want to consider using bottled water for that. Campden tablets still less than a nickel apiece if chloramine or chlorine bothers him.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 11:10
|
|
|
Just recently bought a kit from More Beer that is a clone of RR Consecration. It has pieces of actual used Consecration barrels for the oak aging bit, which may be really gimmicky but it sounded cool to me.  It will only be my second all grain batch which I'm a bit worried about since it seems so complex, but I'm looking forward to drinking my own sour beer in ~1yr.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 12:39
|
|
|
Jo3sh posted:1) You can get away with using tap water. Municipal supply water is pretty sanitary and chances of infection are very very low. On the other hand, the chlorine or chloramine that are used to sanitize the water can cause off-flavors in beer, so you may want to consider using bottled water for that. If I remember correctly, chlorine can't be fixed without intervention, but chloramine cooks off during the boil.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 13:20
|
|
|
Cointelprofessional posted:I'm coming up on the sixth month mark for a few of these, so I plan to start tasting them and measuring their gravity to see how they're progressing. I'm very much looking forward to this trip report!
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 14:20
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:If I remember correctly, chlorine can't be fixed without intervention, but chloramine cooks off during the boil. Other way around. Noone really uses chlorine anymore though because of terrorism safety laws. Its pretty safe to assume your municipality uses chloramine. You can smell when boiling plain water if they are using chlorine.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 14:49
|
|
|
Nanpa posted:Could you experiment with sours in a 5L demijohn? I'm interested in the idea but can be bothered getting another set of big heavy expensive vessels to leave around for months on end Yes.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 15:17
|
|
|
Angry Grimace posted:Campden tablets still less than a nickel apiece if chloramine or chlorine bothers him. Good call, I have no idea why I did not think of that, since that's exactly how I treat my brewing water.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 15:36
|
|
|
So yesterday afternoon I pitched my yeast into my cider must, and as of this morning still nothing bubbling through the air locks. It was a dry packet french ale yeast, and the instructions on it said specifically to sprinkle on to the top of the wort, so I didn't rehydrate it first. I thought to have seen some action by now, but in the past when I made beer I always used smack packs and I'm a little worried now.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 15:59
|
|
|
Mr. Wiggles posted:So yesterday afternoon I pitched my yeast into my cider must, and as of this morning still nothing bubbling through the air locks. It was a dry packet french ale yeast, and the instructions on it said specifically to sprinkle on to the top of the wort, so I didn't rehydrate it first. I thought to have seen some action by now, but in the past when I made beer I always used smack packs and I'm a little worried now. It's going to be just fine. All yeast, liquid or dry, can take a couple of days to show visible signs of fermentation. If it's not going 72 hours after pitching, then you can worry. For now, relax, don't worry, etc.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 16:19
|
|
|
I have bottles soaking in the tub now with Oxyclean, the labels started sliding off within 5 minutes. I can't recommend it enough. A $5 bottle of powder should last at least 20 times, much cheaper than buying bottles.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 16:31
|
|
|
Sirotan posted:Just recently bought a kit from More Beer that is a clone of RR Consecration. It has pieces of actual used Consecration barrels for the oak aging bit, which may be really gimmicky but it sounded cool to me. One of our local brewers (brewer for Packing House brewery) was totally spergin' over those oak chips... I think it's a good time to get a sour goin' 
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 16:43
|
|
|
Jo3sh posted:It's going to be just fine. All yeast, liquid or dry, can take a couple of days to show visible signs of fermentation. If it's not going 72 hours after pitching, then you can worry. For now, relax, don't worry, etc. Okay, thanks. I appreciate it!
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 16:55
|
|
|
 Hefeweizen: kegged.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 21:27
|
|
|
Accipiter posted:
Talk to me on how you work these kegs. Carbing, serving, etc. that looks awesome.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2012 22:44
|
|
|
LaserWash posted:Talk to me on how you work these kegs. Carbing, serving, etc. that looks awesome. The hole on the top of the keg is sealed with a rubber plug with a capped hole in the center. After the beer is carbonated (you can force-carb or regular carb with priming sugar), you cram this guy through the center of the plug:  The cap inside of the rubber plug drops into the keg along with a stream of co2 from a cartridge that goes inside the black screw-off tube at the top by the handle. The knob on the front regulates the amount of co2 that goes into the keg, allowing you to force-carb or simply dispense the beer. To pour a beer, you just pull down on the tap handle. After the keg is empty, you retrieve the cap and the keg is ready for re-use. (After washing and sanitizing of course.) The kegs also have a retractable spigot on the front of the keg for dispensing like the mini kegs you buy at the store, but I never use that. I really do love this setup. 1.3 gallons each (5 liters), the spigot on the front and a tap port on the top, completely reusable, and just the right size to tuck into the fridge. Accipiter fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Oct 31, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2012 01:16
|
|
|
How much headspace do you leave in the minikeg? And do you have a link of where I can get the appropriate bung and that dispenser? I've got a ton of empty Bells minikegs sitting around and I'd love to use them like that.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2012 02:52
|
|
|
Sirotan posted:How much headspace do you leave in the minikeg? And do you have a link of where I can get the appropriate bung and that dispenser? I've got a ton of empty Bells minikegs sitting around and I'd love to use them like that. I do not. I bought the kit at my local brew store. Everything came as a set except for the co2 cartridges, but those are standard. I leave about an inch of headspace.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2012 03:09
|
|
|
That tap is made by Party Star and can be gotten from various places on the internet. Ex. tap and bung (I think). You can also DIY a tap/carb system if you've got gently caress all else to do. Googling home brew mini keg will get you all sorts of information on what to do and what not to do. They seem pretty popular. I did a bunch of research a while back before deciding I would rather save up for a soda keg system, but there are a lot of advantages to the mini kegs.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2012 04:00
|
|
|
Mr. Wiggles posted:So yesterday afternoon I pitched my yeast into my cider must, and as of this morning still nothing bubbling through the air locks. It was a dry packet french ale yeast, and the instructions on it said specifically to sprinkle on to the top of the wort, so I didn't rehydrate it first. I thought to have seen some action by now, but in the past when I made beer I always used smack packs and I'm a little worried now. My cider took a good three days to do anything, and that was with cider yeast and champagne yeast. Also, mine didn't really "take off" either but both were down below 1.003 in two weeks. Someone smarter and more informed than I could tell you why, but I think it could be because of the lack of protein and complex (longer) sugars. Nanpa posted:Could you experiment with sours in a 5L demijohn? I'm interested in the idea but can be bothered getting another set of big heavy expensive vessels to leave around for months on end I use 1 Gallon jugs to make brett based parti-gyle table beers. Super convenient.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2012 13:27
|
|
|
Galler posted:That tap is made by Party Star and can be gotten from various places on the internet. Ex. tap and bung (I think). For the bung, the picture on that link is wrong but the description is absolutely correct.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2012 14:21
|
|
|
Jacobey000 posted:
Mind blown. I think I'm going to start keeping jugs of butt nasty sour to blend into stuff. E. I have Russian River bottles left to innoculate with
zedprime fucked around with this message at 14:47 on Oct 31, 2012 |
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2012 14:43
|
|
|
Speaking of mini kegs, decided to search for some on ebay (UK) and found these for £5: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&actionType=singinformore&item=300801398714 The description has details on how to use them, and the guy even sells spare bungs to go into the top. Apart from having World Cup 2010 design on them, do these look alright? I might get a few...
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2012 14:51
|
|
|
krushgroove posted:Speaking of mini kegs, decided to search for some on ebay (UK) and found these for £5: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&actionType=singinformore&item=300801398714 Those are identical to mine, save for the artwork. The mini kegs that Warsteiner sell are also exactly the same.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2012 15:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 03:27 |
|
|
Jacobey000 posted:My cider took a good three days to do anything, and that was with cider yeast and champagne yeast. Also, mine didn't really "take off" either but both were down below 1.003 in two weeks. Someone smarter and more informed than I could tell you why, but I think it could be because of the lack of protein and complex (longer) sugars. That's good to know. Do you think, since I used an ale yeast, my initial fermentation will take a little longer than the week or so I had thought?
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2012 17:45
|
|