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Can you manually set the RAM speed in the BIOS without breaking the auto-overclock, and if so is it properly set to DDR3-1333?
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Oct 27, 2012 20:26
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chippy posted:TCase is the temperature you'll be getting in the Asus AI thing. It's taken from the head spreader I think, not the cores. It comes up a fair bit lower than the actual core temps, you need to check those with RealTemp or something. At a guess your core temps are probably higher than mine are. OK, I downloaded HWiNFO64 from the OP and re-ran Prime95 with low FFTs. In very short order the cores were much higher, my hottest was core #2 at 76* . They were all sustained at 3610 Mhz. That said, the fans were only a whisper above the regular silent. But ya, I'm not going to mess with OC until I have a good aftermarket cooler.
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Oct 27, 2012 20:28
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I've been casually looking into overclocking my i5-2500k via Turbo Boost with my Gigabyte Z68XP-UD3P and I have a few questions: By default are you limited to 3.4GHz via Turbo Boost with an i5-2500k with four cores running? Is it normal that I can't change the Turbo Boost setting for 4-cores from [Auto] in the bios for these boards? Would updating to the latest UEFI possibly help?
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Oct 28, 2012 04:05
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Beefheart posted:I've been casually looking into overclocking my i5-2500k via Turbo Boost with my Gigabyte Z68XP-UD3P and I have a few questions: I'm not super familiar with Gigabyte UEFI, but I'm pretty sure that "Auto" settings are going to favor the CPU's defaults. By its nature, overclocking is more of a "manual" thing, even if you leave some features selectively on not-human control.
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Oct 28, 2012 06:23
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Beefheart posted:I've been casually looking into overclocking my i5-2500k via Turbo Boost with my Gigabyte Z68XP-UD3P and I have a few questions: Make sure your RAM timings and voltage are set manually, and give the VTT voltage a tiny boost over stock. future ghost fucked around with this message at 09:31 on Oct 28, 2012 |
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Oct 28, 2012 09:24
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Factory Factory posted:I'm not super familiar with Gigabyte UEFI, but I'm pretty sure that "Auto" settings are going to favor the CPU's defaults. By its nature, overclocking is more of a "manual" thing, even if you leave some features selectively on not-human control. Right, but as I said the latest non-UEFI firmware doesn't allow me to change it from Auto for some reason. Edit: I'm running 44x with stock auto voltage stuff right now. Passes IntelBurnTest and looks good in Prime95 so far. CPU-Z is reporting Core Voltage of 1.332V averaging around 58-63c under load. Anything I could/should do to drop voltage or is this decent? Beefheart fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Oct 28, 2012 |
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Oct 28, 2012 16:24
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It should drop the vcore and CPU clocks dynamically depending on what you're doing with the PC (check voltage/clocks with HWiNFO). If it's working on auto, verify using IntelBurnTest set to 5 runs on maximum to make sure the overclock is stable. If it's not changing clocks & voltages dynamically you'd need to test setting offset voltages to get a stable load vcore for the overclock.
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Oct 29, 2012 06:12
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I have an i5 750 and a 560 ti. I was thinking about overclocking them both, but when I started dicking in the bios and restarted it beeped a bunch and gave me a message about overclocking failing. 1) Is overclocking the 750 and the 560ti worth it if I'm looking for more FPS in games? 2) Why would it beep so drat much?
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Oct 29, 2012 23:02
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1) Yes. Which one will give you more results faster will depend on the game. 2) Clocks are too high for the voltage. Are you bumping the QPI voltage and Vcore as you raise the baseclock? Are you lowering the memory multiplier to keep the RAM speed in check?
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Oct 29, 2012 23:16
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Factory Factory posted:1) Yes. Which one will give you more results faster will depend on the game. No I am not. Seems I need to read the OP. Thanks.
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Oct 29, 2012 23:52
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So I had been overclocking in Windows and after I rebooted (power went out for a bit because of Sandy) it was back to the settings it had used in for the automatic OC. So figuring I would need to reset it all in the Bios I went and did that. After doing things the real way instead of the lazy way I am at 4.4 GHZ with 1.23v according to Aida64. Things seem to be running well with temps in the mid 60's sometimes spiking up to 71 or 72 for a second on one or maybe two cores then dropping back down. I am not sure how too little voltage would work however. I used offset voltage and I am just wondering about if when its sitting at idle do I have to worry about undervolting and how would I test that except letting it sit there for a while?
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Oct 30, 2012 10:15
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Well, DangerDen is having an out-of-business sale. I remember drooling over their WC stuff back in high school, they had some really cool stuff and pioneered a lot of ideas. RIP DangerDen. cheesetriangles posted:So I had been overclocking in Windows and after I rebooted (power went out for a bit because of Sandy) it was back to the settings it had used in for the automatic OC. So figuring I would need to reset it all in the Bios I went and did that. After doing things the real way instead of the lazy way I am at 4.4 GHZ with 1.23v according to Aida64. Things seem to be running well with temps in the mid 60's sometimes spiking up to 71 or 72 for a second on one or maybe two cores then dropping back down. I am not sure how too little voltage would work however. I used offset voltage and I am just wondering about if when its sitting at idle do I have to worry about undervolting and how would I test that except letting it sit there for a while? If you used offset mode and have SpeedStep/etc enabled, then yes you should be fine the voltages it's sitting at when downclocked. I assume you're at a positive offset from stock voltage, so I don't think you have anything to worry about.
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Nov 1, 2012 17:22
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Probably tough for a small shop to compete with all these pre-done closed loop systems that Corsair and the like put out
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Nov 1, 2012 17:49
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Is the simple OC process of going into bios and setting CPU multiplier to 42 the same for an ivy bridge? (i5-3570K)
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Nov 2, 2012 16:32
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Yep.
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Nov 2, 2012 16:51
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Dogen posted:Probably tough for a small shop to compete with all these pre-done closed loop systems that Corsair and the like put out Dangerden stayed focused solely on custom water-cooling well after all-in-one coolers hit the mainstream and even the rare 'enthusiasts' moved to tower coolers. It didn't help that they got completely outmaneuvered in their own product space by both XSPC and Swiftech.
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Nov 2, 2012 21:37
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Factory Factory posted:1) Yes. Which one will give you more results faster will depend on the game. Ok, nutted up and lowered the memory multiplier, which seemed to work. I get a feeling that running at 75c is bad though. Should I set it back and get a new (not stock) heatsink? It's an i5 750 running at 2.8ghz under stress. Tres Burritos fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Nov 4, 2012 |
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Nov 4, 2012 01:19
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I have a 2500k running at 4.5GHz right now. I have 8 gigs of RAM, but sometimes when I leave my browser open for a while or I'm playing a really intensive game I run into memory issues, so I wanted to put in more RAM. Anyway my question is do Sandy Bridge overclocks still have stability issues with 4 DIMMs like older overclocks did that I'd have to redo the overclock?
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Nov 4, 2012 02:33
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Ered posted:I have a 2500k running at 4.5GHz right now. I have 8 gigs of RAM, but sometimes when I leave my browser open for a while or I'm playing a really intensive game I run into memory issues, so I wanted to put in more RAM. I'm not familiar with any specific memory issues using Sandy Bridge, but it is only logical that populating all 4 DIMM slots will stress the IMC more than only 2 or 1. If anything does go wrong after filling them all then it would definitely be your overclock. A few things you can attempt to cure this: set memory to 2T command rate instead of 1T, lower your memory speed, or loosen timings close to stock values. Hopefully you won't have to back off your 4.5GHz overclock after attempting these. If you're still at a safe voltage, you could possibly try going two or three notches up and see if it helps as well. If doing none of that fixes any problems you have, then you know you will have to start playing with processor clock.
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Nov 4, 2012 03:22
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It does. It's an inherent issue with loading each memory channel with more than one DIMM. Unless you have a board with one slot per channel (2-slot LGA 1155, 4-slot LGA 2011) or until we get consumer DDR4, it's something you need to be aware of. The solution is simple: Just bump the DRAM voltage a little. I'm running my stuff at 1.5125V, one bump above stock on my board. Shouldn't need much more than that unless the RAM is very highly clocked. I did have to give up 1T timings because I got odd, once-a-week issues with it on, but the modules weren't spec'd for 1T to begin with. Tres Burritos posted:Ok, nutted up and lowered the memory multiplier, which seemed to work. That's a smidge high for an i5-750, but not the end of the world; the chip is specified for 72.7C. That's a fairly gentle overclock, though; if you wanted to see real results (i.e. above 3 GHz), you'd really want an aftermarket heatsink. Just to save you the trip to the system building thread, a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is a good choice. Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 10:08 on Nov 4, 2012 |
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Nov 4, 2012 10:03
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movax posted:Well, DangerDen is having an out-of-business sale. I remember drooling over their WC stuff back in high school, they had some really cool stuff and pioneered a lot of ideas. Aww that's sad about DD, although I'm surprised they have lasted this long. Have not seen any of their stuff for sale in the UK for ages stuff like xspc and EK water blocks seem to be the most popular now. I remember having the DD maze 4 GPU block with an 80 watt peltier back in the day, amazing bit of kit, nobody seems to do off the shelf stuff like that anymore.
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Nov 5, 2012 13:03
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Goddamn. I'm not a regular itt at all, but I just popped in at random thinking about watercooling nostalgia and holy poo poo dangerden. Back around 2001ish I was in highschool and I'd built my second computer around a 1.2Ghz Athlon; you could overclock and overvolt those things into the sunset as long as you could cool them adequately, and at that point you could use the excess heat to boil water and heat your home. For a stretch I had one of those awful jet-engine-sounding finger-mincing 7000rpm 80mm delta fans pushing an all-copper heatsink, but it was just unreasonably loud by any metric even after I lined my case with soundproof foam. The next frontier was watercooling, but all of the kits were terrible at the time (sporting poor waterblocks, low-throughput pumps, 1/4" tubing and laughably inefficient radiator setups), so led on by the superspergs at [H] I proceeded to do it myself. I got a water pump from a pet store, a heatercore from autozone (I probably spent an hour making the poor guy go through every heatercore on the shelf looking for one that was the right size on the cheap), a 6"x2" industrial strength 12v fan (fans bigger than 80mm weren't really even a thing at this point, so I ran it on a separate variable power supply so I could keep it quiet), and some silicon tubing from the internet to tie it all together. I couldn't really improvise a waterblock, so I went with a Dangerden Maze2 (but only because the guy who made the superior Spir@l waterblock was permanently backlogged  ).It worked great, for a while. Then one day I left it running when I went to school and the pump sprung a leak. Remember how hot those loving cpus got? When I got home steam had blown off one of the tubes, and a closer postmortem revealed that the CPU socket was yellow and warped and almost didn't want to come off of the cpu. Good times. Anyway, now that I've reminded myself why I haven't watercooled since then, I recently replaced my old Phenom II 955BE. I know those things have a lot of headroom for overclocking (if you're willing to drop back to a 32 bit OS to break 4ghz  ) and I was thinking about cobbling together a WC setup for it on the cheap just for fun. I came here to ask about waterblocks, since I'm about a decade behind on watercooling tech. I'll look into the couple of names lovely Treat just dropped.Or maybe I'll just dunk it in mineral oil... 
poverty goat fucked around with this message at 11:48 on Nov 6, 2012 |
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Nov 6, 2012 11:25
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As long as you know that both of those ideas are batshit insane compared to a simple heatpipe air cooler, go for it. 
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Nov 6, 2012 14:57
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Factory Factory posted:As long as you know that both of those ideas are batshit insane compared to a simple heatpipe air cooler, go for it.  I actually had the good fortune to pick up a noctua nh-d14 for the 3770k in my new build on the cheap from a friend who couldn't fit in his case, and goddamn it's silent and cool as gently caress at the same time. When I first set it up I had every fan in the box running at 7v, and I couldn't hear enough noise to tell whether it was on or not as I sat next to it. And I could still run linpack at stock 3.9ghz turbo without getting into the red. At full speed it can handle pretty much anything except linpack up to 4.5ghz or so and it's still quieter than my old setup. I've never had this much headroom before without having to make nasty noise trade offs for it. poverty goat fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Nov 6, 2012 |
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Nov 6, 2012 16:45
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Chose wisely. Performance for noise is hard to beat, I love this gigantic mother of a CPU cooler. It's kind of hilarious if you think of the ratio of radiator space to the size of the transistors themselves. Buncha 22nm transistors makin' lotsa heat in a tiny package? No problem, hook this car radiator son of a bitch up to it, welcome to (among) the best and quietest overclock(s) you can get on air.
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Nov 6, 2012 17:54
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I'd have sex with my NH-D14, but that would compromise its cooling ability.
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Nov 6, 2012 18:54
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KillHour posted:I'd have sex with my NH-D14, but that would compromise its cooling ability. If mayo makes such a good thermal paste...
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Nov 6, 2012 20:03
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Speaking of NH-D14s I just googled for a picture for a friend and found this gem, posted in all seriousness as far as I can tell by the OP of the NH-D14 Owners' Club thread at overclock.net: Yo dawg, I heard you like fans, so I put fans on your fa 
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Nov 6, 2012 20:29
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gggiiimmmppp posted:Speaking of NH-D14s I just googled for a picture for a friend and found this gem, posted in all seriousness as far as I can tell by the OP of the NH-D14 Owners' Club thread at overclock.net: What the gently caress? I know push/pull configs can get a degree or two better performance, but does all that bullshit have any realistic chance of affecting temps at all (other than being so god drat noisy that every human being and warm animal avoids the room entirely?)
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Nov 6, 2012 20:48
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Presumably, they're on a rheobus so that the only noise is air turbulence, as each individual fan can spin well below top speed. That said, I think the level of rationality here is somewhere between "Haha" and "Woo!"
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Nov 6, 2012 21:07
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UndyingShadow posted:What the gently caress? I know push/pull configs can get a degree or two better performance, but does all that bullshit have any realistic chance of affecting temps at all (other than being so god drat noisy that every human being and warm animal avoids the room entirely?)  The ones in the center are probably empty spacers to mimic the air-pressure from a 38mm fan. It generally makes things quieter, assuming they're tied to a rheobus, although a single decent 38mm fan would probably be a better use of space.That's not to say that stunningly-insane 72mm-thick dual-fan parts don't exist however: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJOkZx_FjUY
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Nov 7, 2012 03:54
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grumperfish posted:That's not to say that stunningly-insane 72mm-thick dual-fan parts don't exist however: Yes, those noises are the ones I want to hear from my computer. Sign me up.
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Nov 7, 2012 11:09
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I was going to make a joke about wanting 7200RPM fans because clearly it's fine since hard drives go that fast. But I noticed Delta already makes them faster than that at 92mm.
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Nov 7, 2012 12:21
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re: crazy fan photo- wouldn't having two fans next to each other like that cause turbulence and probably be less efficient?Cavauro posted:I was going to make a joke about wanting 7200RPM fans because clearly it's fine since hard drives go that fast. But I noticed Delta already makes them faster than that at 92mm. I had an 8000 RPM delta 80mm back in the day. Man I was a dumb kid.
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Nov 7, 2012 17:04
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Pffft, amateurs. http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/delta-v-15-69mm-electric-ducted-fan-EFLDF15 Pulled 26A at 12V in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBqGGFWrGaQ KillHour fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Nov 7, 2012 |
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Nov 7, 2012 18:58
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That is brilliant. Next up, combine a Raspberry Pi and a number of those to create a computer whose cooling system also hovers it.
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Nov 7, 2012 20:14
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Factory Factory posted:That is brilliant. Next up, combine a Raspberry Pi and a number of those to create a computer whose cooling system also hovers it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZcCuXDBuoY
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Nov 7, 2012 23:07
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Dogen posted:re: crazy fan photo- wouldn't having two fans next to each other like that cause turbulence and probably be less efficient? Not if they're designed properly. That's (almost) what axial-flow compressors are, after all. John McCain fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Nov 8, 2012 |
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Nov 8, 2012 04:01
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I have a 9200m overclocked to 825 core clock, 1000 memory clock, 1650 shader clock over the stock 529/800/1300. Even on a laptop this dated it is the difference between borderline unplayable and a solid 30 fps in a game like borderlands.
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Nov 8, 2012 05:14
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So, a few weeks ago I used the system-building, upgrading, and parts-picking megathread to put my first computer together. I assembled a very sensible Intel 3570k CPU, Asus P8Z77-V LX motherboard, and MSI 7950 video card. I was really pleased with myself when the build went off without a hitch, and all my games played at max settings. Then I read this thread.... Now I've cut my CPU in half with a razor blade, flashed my 7950 with a 7970 bios, overclocked my CPU to 4.6 GHz, and have developed some sort of fan acquisition disorder. All in all, I'm having a blast. It's like some sort of neverending crossword puzzle. The only thing I regret, is my motherboard choice, because this motherboard really doesn't have a lot of options. Birthdayboy fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Nov 10, 2012 |
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Nov 10, 2012 04:05
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