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Z3n posted:Similar to these questions, but BikeExif does some pretty cool interviews: All 28 interviewees are men 
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Nov 1, 2012 04:07
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orenji fucked around with this message at 10:02 on Aug 23, 2023 |
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Nov 1, 2012 04:39
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Nov 1, 2012 08:35
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What kind of tire pressure should I be running in Perelli MT90s on a 270 lb xt-250 with a 140 lb rider? I was thinking around 22/25, does that sound about right?
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Nov 1, 2012 17:33
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An observer posted:I assume right hand? I got rheumatoid arthritis in my throttle hand. There are thumb throttles you could use (like for ATVs) at the absolute worst you could always reverse the wiring and make the left handlebar the throttle. The awesome thing about bikes is that they're so easy to alter to fit your needs. There are double amputees that ride motorcycles every day. You'd be fine. Awesome, thanks guys. I do have carpal/cubital tunnel in both hands but I should be ok. I'm going to take it real slow and just take the MSF and see what happens from there.
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Nov 1, 2012 22:20
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The DRZ won't start, not sure why. I cleaned the carb, changed the oil, put in a new air/oil filter and put a new CR8E plug in it. It turns over fine, there were no metal shavings on the magnetic plug or in the oil. It died on the way home the other day, showed signs of running out of gas at full throttle. I rode it at 1/2 throttle and when I hit a stop sign it just died. The bike turns over strong and there's no weird noises as it turns over or anything (I scared myself reading about thrown rods etc. on TT). Any thoughts/suggestions?
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Nov 2, 2012 04:13
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Check the petcock and fuel line, could be a leak/clog or your petcock needs to be rebuilt. Otherwise I'd check for any leaks in the lines. Edit: Before you start pulling those apart, make sure your plugs are all getting a spark.
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Nov 2, 2012 04:23
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Ashex posted:Check the petcock and fuel line, could be a leak/clog or your petcock needs to be rebuilt. Otherwise I'd check for any leaks in the lines. Plug gets spark, petcock flows strong and the carb is getting gas (just rebuilt it). The spark plug I pulled out was seriously fouled. Bike is a '07 DRZ 400 SM with 11.5k on the clock.
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Nov 2, 2012 04:29
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That's really strange, I'd say it might be a stuck float needle but with the carbs getting gas that wouldn't make sense. I'm assuming there's no change with choke in/out?
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Nov 2, 2012 04:42
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Plug gets spark, petcock flows strong and the carb is getting gas (just rebuilt it). The spark plug I pulled out was seriously fouled. Bike is a '07 DRZ 400 SM with 11.5k on the clock. Th cr8s run slightly hotter than the cr9s but I dont know that that would cause it to foul easier. whats the exact number of the new plug CR8E-K -X -I edit: I don't know why I thought you had changed from a cr9 to a cr8, shouldn't post after staying up till 4am writing lab reports. you might see a spark but it may not be strong enough, check your coil and lead. also its easy to throw a gsxr coil on cap lead into the drz if it is your coil thats gone. I've done it on mine and the bike starts a lot easier now than before. echomadman fucked around with this message at 04:49 on Nov 2, 2012 |
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Nov 2, 2012 04:43
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echomadman posted:Th cr8s run slightly hotter than the cr9s but I dont know that that would cause it to foul easier. whats the exact number of the new plug CR8E-K -X -I I think the spark looks weak, I swapped the CR9EIX I had out for a CR8EK in case the spark wasn't hot enough, but it really looks weak to me. I could shoot some video, but I'm not sure how well that would work.
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Nov 2, 2012 05:31
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Pull your new plug and check if it's fouled. If you've got a bad leak, the oil can quickly foul a plug and kill your engine. I had a civic with a blown valve cover gasket that would die and then refuse to start for that reason.
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Nov 2, 2012 06:55
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theperminator posted:Ahh ok yeah that makes sense. It's a ratio. 47/16 = 2.94 42/14 = 3 It'd be slightly shorter than stock but barely.
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Nov 2, 2012 12:15
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Plug gets spark, petcock flows strong and the carb is getting gas (just rebuilt it). The spark plug I pulled out was seriously fouled. Bike is a '07 DRZ 400 SM with 11.5k on the clock. What kind of fouling on that plug? After cranking, are the plugs wet or dry? If they are wet, you have a spark problem. If dry, they are not getting fuel. HTH
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Nov 2, 2012 15:54
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Forgot to kill the fuel last night and came out to gas leaking from just under the airbox, I guess the carb is still clogged. I'll tear it down again tonight tonight and see if I can figure it out. God I miss EFI on and ugggggh carbs!!
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Nov 2, 2012 15:56
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Gas leaking means its not sealing correctly. Likely a float valve.
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Nov 2, 2012 16:04
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Z3n posted:Gas leaking means its not sealing correctly. Likely a float valve. I'll be honest, I suck with carbs. I'm calling in a favor with a car-nut buddy and hopefully he'll come over tomorrow to give me an assist with it. Is there a good thread or post somewhere on doing a full teardown/cleaning of this carb? I've been searching TT but couldn't find anything and my Google fu is failing me. I rebuilt the Honda carb like 5 times and for some reason it always seems to be a trial when I pull a carb. There's not jet kit so I just screwed everything back in how I found it. Should there be some kind of clearing on the jet or something?
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Nov 2, 2012 16:48
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Over time, the float valve rubber will break down or get scored from grit and stuff and will not seal properly. The solution is to replace the float valve. This is what the valve looks like: http://www.randakks.com/TechTip60.htm
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Nov 2, 2012 17:49
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I'll be honest, I suck with carbs. I'm calling in a favor with a car-nut buddy and hopefully he'll come over tomorrow to give me an assist with it. Is there a good thread or post somewhere on doing a full teardown/cleaning of this carb? I've been searching TT but couldn't find anything and my Google fu is failing me. I rebuilt the Honda carb like 5 times and for some reason it always seems to be a trial when I pull a carb. There's not jet kit so I just screwed everything back in how I found it. Should there be some kind of clearing on the jet or something? If you have fuel overflowing into the airbox, you may also have fuel in the crankcase. Check your oil for a gassy smell or increased level. If oil is gassy, change that poo poo and the filter before starting the bike.
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Nov 2, 2012 18:06
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Z3n posted:Over time, the float valve rubber will break down or get scored from grit and stuff and will not seal properly. The solution is to replace the float valve. That part looked like it was in good shape, I may not have "leveled" the floats correctly my Grandpa said. Tamir Lenk posted:If you have fuel overflowing into the airbox, you may also have fuel in the crankcase. Check your oil for a gassy smell or increased level. I will double check this before I flip the bike on. It hasn't actually run yet, it was just turned over several times. Would there be gas in the filter without the bike having been run? Could I just drain and re-fill the reservoir?
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Nov 2, 2012 18:37
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No, you'll need to do a full oil change if it's contaminated. You can't just visually inspect the float valves. If they're leaking, there's a problem. They might be jammed open by grit or they might be damaged.
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Nov 2, 2012 18:48
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I think the spark looks weak, I swapped the CR9EIX I had out for a CR8EK in case the spark wasn't hot enough.. That's not what plug heat range means. It's about how much heat the plug itself retains. EDIT: Unless the letters in the plug part codes are something that affect the spark, in which case, disregard. Here4DaGangBang fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Nov 3, 2012 |
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Nov 3, 2012 00:54
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So while attempting my first valve lash check and adjustment on the 2010 Ninja 250, I learned the following lessons: 1. Do the math FIRST and triple check. Especially on cam-off valve adjustments... My philosophy was to maximize clearance to gain some low / mid. I took it too far and ended up going over the maximum on several valves. Next Time: Back-calculate new lash with the chosen shim to be sure that it is what I want. 2. This takes A LOT of time. Especially for someone as 3. Fishing stuff out of the cam chain cover is a terrible experience. 4. The hotcams kit with .05mm increments is barely good enough... I have to do some back-calcing to make sure that whatever I round to is going to be within spec. All in all, I wasted my entire afternoon / evening since I basically have to start over tomorrow when I get back from work (started today with valve cover ready to come off!). Side note: When re-installing the cams, how easy is it to screw up the timing? I know the crank didn't move and I got the white lines on the cams to be horizontal, but how do I know if the chain has some slack between the crank pulley and the cams? I've never removed cams on a vehicle with a chain or a vehicle with multiple cams haha. On the bright side, I now have a sweet spreadsheet for doing valve checks! 
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Nov 3, 2012 07:30
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There is an open threaded space next to the pilot mixture screw, is something supposed to go there? I tore the carb back down and noticed some of the smaller O-ring gaskets are fried, can I just use a general O-ring gasket to replace them or do I need to order the OEM parts(specifically the float seat O-ring is trashed pretty badly, and it's only sold as an "assembly")? Would it be worth it to just order the DynoJet or JD kit and re-jet? My bike has always refused to start cold if it wasn't fully choked, I seem to remember being told a jet kit would fix this issue. On the plus side, the needle and seat both look good. I didn't see any trash or scoring on them at all. The float valve looks good and I can't find anything wrong with the floats themselves. I've got all the hard parts in my "carb cleaner" bucket and parts tray soaking over night, tomorrow I plan to was it all off and fire up the compressor to blow them out. I really wished someone made a rebuild kit for the Mikuni. I'd love to upgrade to an FCR carb, but cash is an issue and without my bike I have to take the bus. I need it to be operational ASAP.
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Nov 3, 2012 07:54
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XYLOPAGUS posted:So while attempting my first valve lash check and adjustment on the 2010 Ninja 250, I learned the following lessons: Valves too loose is not a big deal. How loose are they? Check the cams again after you reinstall the cct. Then turn the engine over by hand a conplete rotation to tdc again and recheck the alignment marks. Do not do this without the cct installed. Once you're done with the job, crank it over a few times by hand to make sure nothing makes contact, do a minimum clearance check (to make sure none of the shims slipped out of the buckets or you didn't make a math error), and you're good to go. Ponies, I'd probably go with the own stuff, but any matched, fuel resistant (viton?) O ring will work. Z3n fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Nov 3, 2012 |
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Nov 3, 2012 16:55
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Z3n posted:Valves too loose is not a big deal. How loose are they? Here's what I did: 1.0 Measure Lash 2.0 Remove CCT 3.0 Remove Cam caps, cams, and buckets 4.0 Measure Shims 5.0 Replace with new Shims and install on head 6.0 Re-install cams and chain 7.0 Reinstall cam caps and torque to spec 06 in-lbs 8.0 Reinstall CCT and torque to spec 9.0 Rotate motor clockwise to TDS a couple times. 10. Measure lash The first exhaust valve measured SUPER tight, which leads me to believe that the shim isn't seated right. The two intakes that I measured were looser than I wanted, but probably okay. I'm going to re-measure the lash when I get home from work today, just in case I was going crazy. If it looks close, I'll post my measurements, but otherwise I'll have to remove the cams again!
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Nov 3, 2012 17:43
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Ok, cycle goons, time for a second opinion before I begin work. I ride an '87 Honda Rebel 250. Today it was idling very low in first gear and, at stoplights, would idle so low as to die if I didn't keep the throttle a little open. My first suspicion would be fuel starvation. This bike utilizes a gravity-flow petcock which, I believe, has a little mesh screen filtering fuel entering the engine. My plan of action is to turn the petcock off, disconnect the line beneath the petcock, place a fuel-safe container there, turn the petcock on to empty the tank, disconnect the petcock assembly plus the lines, wash the entire assembly down (probably with a can of Seafoam) and then reinstall everything. Differential diagnosis, people! What else might it be? What am I missing? I should or should not do what? Thank you all in advance for sharing your goonish brain powers with me. Together we can make a difference!  Together we can get this bike to stop loving stalling every time I stop in first! 
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Nov 3, 2012 18:51
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XYLOPAGUS posted:Here's what I did: Also I assume you typoed and it's 60 in-lbs  The rest of your workflow seems solid. Wulframn posted:Ok, cycle goons, time for a second opinion before I begin work. My first thought is that it sounds like the clutch is dragging. Does it idle up to normal levels if you kick it into neutral?
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Nov 3, 2012 18:52
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Wulframn posted:Ok, cycle goons, time for a second opinion before I begin work. Check your battery voltage.
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Nov 3, 2012 18:54
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Z3n posted:Yeah, sometimes you'll end up with some grit in the bucket that the shim fits in that you don't notice, and causes that. No, actually when I went to park it I popped it into neutral and took off my helmet as I listened to it kill itself. Sagebrush posted:Check your battery voltage. I have a multimeter around here somewhere. Right now I am catching up on household chores but once it cools off [outside] and I find the multimeter I will do that and report back. [I'm making a list of things to check before I actually do work, so keep 'em coming if you, or anyone, has other suggestions. Naturally I am going to move from least to most severe/complex. No reason to take apart the fuel system if it just needs a new battery.]
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Nov 3, 2012 18:57
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Well, just that every time my bike starts to bog at idle it turns out to be a low battery (and this is a common problem I have, since the alternator doesn't charge the battery below 3000-3500 rpm with the headlight on). Also it's following the general rule of "if you think it's fuel, check your electricals. If you think it's electrical, check your fueling."
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Nov 3, 2012 19:12
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I'm not sure this thread will be able to handle the critical mass of the CA brain trust all working together to solve a problem. I'm calling Obama.
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Nov 3, 2012 19:18
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Wulframn posted:
Vacuum leak. There's a crack or gap or some sort of opening in the air path from the filter through the carb to the cylinder. Can be inspected, mulled over, flashlighted, chinstroked and contemplated without removing a single part from your bike. If the petroleum oasis of carburated charge is fouled by sucking air from the desert atmosphere, your mighty camel grows weak and will fall to its knees at idle. But when fed a richer serving of the throttle plate, fouled as it may be, it will summon the strength to rise - disguising its injury as the fear of betraying weakness to pretadors vastly overpowers the pain of the lean mixture. Or - the battery is bad and it kicks a weak spark when the alternator isn't outputting. Before removing bits, look for cracked rubber and measure your battery.
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Nov 4, 2012 00:32
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At the start of October, I went on a 1500 mile ride on my 2010 Bonneville. I rode it to work twice shortly after getting back, then between one thing and another didn't ride at all for around 3 weeks. When I finally went out to ride again, I tried to start the bike and got only a loud "click" rather than the usual cranking followed by a start (always on the first time, too). In more detail, when I turned on the key, the electricals seemed to come on fine, I could hear the fuel pump (EFI) going, but when I pressed the ignition it made the "click" (almost "clack") and nothing more. The fuel pump then ran again, the lights were still on, etc. I figured it was a battery problem, so I pulled the battery and charged it, but it's still doing the same thing. I didn't think to check the voltage before and after charging. I can't remember, is it safe to put a multimeter across the terminals while hitting the ignition? With my old bike, when the battery was too low, I'd get a really weedy crank but at least it would crank. I don't know what the symptoms will be like on a modern EFI bike. I suppose a new battery wouldn't be too expensive, this one is about 2 years old after all... and it seems like the battery is a frequent culprit in won't-start scenarios.
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Nov 4, 2012 20:02
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Bonnies have a problem with draining and destroying their batteries...there was a recall for it. Sounds like your battery might be toast. What's the standing voltage of it? And yes, you can test it with a multimeter across the terminals with the bike on/off/what it drops to when you hit the starter.
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Nov 4, 2012 21:24
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Z3n posted:Bonnies have a problem with draining and destroying their batteries...there was a recall for it. Sounds like your battery might be toast. Just over 10v, drops a little when I power on or hit the starter. I'll look for a new battery and maybe post on the triumphrat forums to see if my bike was affected by the recall. Edit: Took it to Autozone so they could try their tester, the tester said it was fine but completely drained. I have run it on my charger a few times, but only at the 4A setting, so I'm going to try again with 6A. If that doesn't work, I'm calling the local Triumph shop on Tuesday to see if the battery is covered by the warranty. Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Nov 4, 2012 |
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Nov 4, 2012 22:29
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Pham Nuwen posted:Just over 10v, drops a little when I power on or hit the starter. I'll look for a new battery and maybe post on the triumphrat forums to see if my bike was affected by the recall. that battery is kaput.
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Nov 4, 2012 22:52
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Linedance posted:that battery is kaput. Really seriously so, if it's showing 10v on no load - it's possible there's a deeper electrical problem lurking somewhere.
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Nov 4, 2012 23:47
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Did the bonnies have the same r/r issue as the Daytona?
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Nov 5, 2012 00:10
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Ola posted:If the petroleum oasis of carburated charge is fouled by sucking air from the desert atmosphere, your mighty camel grows weak and will fall to its knees at idle. But when fed a richer serving of the throttle plate, fouled as it may be, it will summon the strength to rise - disguising its injury as the fear of betraying weakness to pretadors vastly overpowers the pain of the lean mixture. If you wrote a Dromedary-idiom-based motorcycle troubleshooting/service guide I'd buy it. Well, maybe not buy it, but I'd totally subscribe to your RSS feed.
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Nov 5, 2012 14:54
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