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Spiffness posted:It helps, but my shifter still punched a hole through my case in a crash at the SM track. The units pretty thin. I think it could stand to be about twice as thick to do some real good. Had you smoothed the edges of your shifter? On the DRZ it's this sharp right angle aimed right at the fragile case. I've heard recommendations to file it down to reduce the chances of the case getting broken by the shifter.
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Oct 25, 2012 22:40
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Yeah, she was filed down. The crash wasn't particularly severe either (didn't have to bend the shifter back into shape), it just hit it right I guess. Anyway, not saying it doesn't help but YMMV. Better to have that than nothing.
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Oct 26, 2012 00:13
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I wonder if making sure there is plenty of RTV/glue between the two would help? if it's very tight to the casing then it would just transmit all the shock straight through, whereas if you have a nice squishy layer in between the impact can be spread out over a wider area as the case guard can deform? Kinda like a stab-vest?
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Oct 26, 2012 13:57
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What do you guys think? http://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/mcy/3360388555.html
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Oct 28, 2012 19:46
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Relatively high mileage and expensive. Maybe if you could talk him down to 6.5k. And the usual caveats about aftermarket exhausts on them, etc.
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Oct 28, 2012 19:51
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You lose a lot of power with aftermarket exhausts on the 2008+ 690s? Do they just need to be re-mapped? I'm sure it's been ran into the ground but KTMs are decent at taking abuse. 6.5k is low but a good starting point. Looks like it'd be fun for road tripping. That seat is weird. That Evo2 intake is like $400-500  for what, like 2 hp? It has passenger pegs though. A lot of bikes don't have them. Those things are like $200-300! It does have a lot of nice goodies.
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Oct 28, 2012 19:54
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The 690 needs the intake modified when you modify the exhaust, or it just robs the mid range for a little top end hit. The EVO2 intake + akra system, if it's been remapped right, will give a noticeable boost to power. Its curious that he just mentions the intake, as the EVO2 kit includes a hotter cam (the same as the Dakar cam) and requires the battery be relocated. It's probably worth some further probing to find out what has actually been done. And 13k isn't super high for this generation of LC4, mine will be hitting 20k in the next few weeks. Mine also came with passenger pegs as standard, but maybe they don't in the US? ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 20:32 on Oct 28, 2012 |
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Oct 28, 2012 20:30
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The issue with aftermarket exhaust is that some of the bikes take them well and some of them don't, just depending on the individual bike. Generally, an aftermarket exhaust means a loss in midrange for a little bit of top end. The Evo2 kit plus proper tuning is a big gain across the board, but the proper tuning part of it is the difficult one. It's got a lot of nice mods, it's very true...I'd also want to inspect for things like rocker bearing wear, etc. It's uncommon but those issues can come up and if they do you need to make sure they're handled before they cause catastrophic failure. Edit: Beat 
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Oct 28, 2012 20:31
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The variance between individual bikes has been basically narrowed down to poor dealer set up. You can fix almost all issues with a couple of online guides, TuneECU and a USB->ODB2 adapter (£30ish).
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Oct 28, 2012 20:53
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The akra system is crazy expensive, like $1800 It looks like the charcoal canister has been removed, so the bike has been modded to some degree. If those mods were done properly and tuned accordingly (thown on a dyno, not just the akra map) I'd argue it's value-added. Failing that, it's work for the buyer to sort out, and detracts from the value. Those mirrors are nice, the seat is fugly ($200 for a new one if the stock isn't around), those lights are weird but easy to remove. There is something weird going on with the horn mount, too. The luggage is worth a chunk of change, too. Overall it's a fair deal. I imagine you can sell the luggage and Akra slip-on for ~$1k pretty fast. Edit: Z3n has a good point about the rocker arms, I recall that was a factory defect present in the early generation LC4s and was resolved around this model year. Google up,ask the seller, and inspect. It'll take ~30 minutes to open it up. Edit2: Steering stabilizer is an easy $400 on the right forums. GI Joe jobs fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Oct 28, 2012 |
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Oct 28, 2012 22:45
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Yeah, there's definitely a lot going on. Is it the full akra system? I wouldn't know what to tell from the pictures. I'll have to inquire about the tuning and such. Aren't those OEM mirrors? Is the steering stabilizer really a noticeable difference? I think I'm going to offer 6.5k and then max out at 7k
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Oct 28, 2012 23:17
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Nevermind, those are stock mirrors. They look nicer than the stock mirrors I received on my enduro. They break easily so stock mirrors is a good sign 
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Oct 29, 2012 00:10
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So my KTM lust is at it's peak, and I'm considering making a dumb decision: http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/mcd/3385345108.html I'm considering buying/financing that. I am considering calling them up and making an offer on the bike. I could probably sell my current bike for about 2k, and could put down another 2k. I figure if I could talk them to about 7k for the KTM I'd only be financing 3k which I could pay off within 12 months easy. I checked insurance, full coverage with $500 deductibles is about $30 a month, so I think it would be financially manageable for me. Thoughts? The KTM looks nice, under 2k miles, Corbin seat, akra exhaust, barkbusters. Not too hot about the tires but who cares. Someone tell me why I shouldn't do this?
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Nov 4, 2012 18:00
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Looks like it's in great shape and the Distanzias are good tyres, I run one on the back of mine (same model/year). I'd insist on a test ride, make sure the engine is happy and it doesn't have any of the throttle/stalling troubles. Not that those should stop you, they can be sorted out reasonably easy with a £30 cable and a spare laptop/afternoon. But you could use it to knock them down on price again.
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Nov 4, 2012 18:15
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ReelBigLizard posted:Not that those should stop you, they can be sorted out reasonably easy with a £30 cable and a spare laptop/afternoon. But you could use it to knock them down on price again. I've had some pretty average luck in the past with firmware updates on electronic devices so i've been putting off the whole Tune ECU thing on my SM even though I've had the cable for a couple of months. Finally got around to it on Saturday, boy does it make a difference, no sputtering throttle, better acceleration. Now i just want to fine tune it a little but it's really good and really easy to do.
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Nov 5, 2012 00:49
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Well, the SicAss racing headlight bulb upgrade for my bike is merely rear end, and definitely not sic. I broke the first bulb trying to install it, and the second bulb failed not 15 minutes after I took it out for what was supposed to be about a 3 hour ride. Does anyone have any recommendations for a completely different headlight housing/upgrade for a 625 SMC? I'm open to all opinions. Preferably, it is bright as poo poo and has a good cutoff. Perhaps it's even HID. I've found a few sites selling various "street fighter" esque housings. It seems like the best way to go is some housing that clamps to the fork tubes. There's also the option of the trailtech headlights, but I have a suspicion that some custom bracketry would still be necessary which makes things hard to aim. In other news, I think that my valves are loose and need some adjustment. What a project [bike].
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Nov 5, 2012 02:17
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Aargh posted:...i've been putting off the whole Tune ECU thing... Same. When I finally got round to it I was kicking myself for not doing it sooner. MetaJew posted:Does anyone have any recommendations for a completely different headlight housing/upgrade for a 625 SMC? Trailtech do a street legal version of their generic halogen kit with generic fittings, even do it in KTM orange? http://trailtech.net/x2.html
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Nov 5, 2012 14:45
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I have the Trail tech X2 halogen light and it's plenty bright. I'm happy with it besides having to make a choice between street legal and the rock shield. I chose the rock shield but when I ride at night the spread is pretty harsh for smaller cars.
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Nov 6, 2012 05:17
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Gullous posted:I have the Trail tech X2 halogen light and it's plenty bright. I'm happy with it besides having to make a choice between street legal and the rock shield. I chose the rock shield but when I ride at night the spread is pretty harsh for smaller cars. What's the mounting and aiming like? With the way the speedo, indicator lights, and wiring harness are I'm not sure how a "universal" light will fit. Also, does the x2 cone with a relay, and how do I know if my charging system can handle it? The rock guard seems like the better choice. That sucks that it hurts the spread. Are visibility and light output still good for you?
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Nov 6, 2012 17:48
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MetaJew posted:What's the mounting and aiming like? With the way the speedo, indicator lights, and wiring harness are I'm not sure how a "universal" light will fit. Also, does the x2 cone with a relay, and how do I know if my charging system can handle it? It mounts via a rubber strap per fork tube and two holes in the fender. Placement of the fender holes will determine the aim. Universal fit only applies to the connection to the harness, not the geometry of the ballast. It's not significantly different from a stock light, I wouldn't worry. Relays are sold separately. The halogen x2 is 70W, Google advrider/smjunkies... Trail tech also sells upgraded stators. The output is great, I'm satisfied. Trail tech has a comparison of output via photos, it's accurate.
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Nov 7, 2012 02:17
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Gullous posted:The output is great, I'm satisfied. Trail tech has a comparison of output via photos, it's accurate. I put the same thing on the CRF, works great.
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Nov 7, 2012 14:09
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6h1e9oulMd8&feature=share
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Nov 16, 2012 02:43
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I'm cross-posting this from the "You didn't crash..." thread. Hopefully you guys might have some suggestions on a different taillight or brighter bulb. I didn't crash, but I nearly had someone crash into me. My office is about a mile away from where I live so I typically ride my bicycle in, but I'll ride my 625 SMC in occasionally just to avoid any chance of my carb getting clogged from disuse. On my way home I was about to turn into my apartment complex from the right lane of a 3-lane feeder, when I suddenly heard tires squeeling, checked my mirrors and saw a corolla closing in on me way too fast. I gunned the throttle and drove into the exit-only driveway from my complex to get out of the way. No injuries or damage, but I could smell burning rubber from locked brakes. With that in mind, I don't think my brake light is adequate at all. The difference in brightness going from running lights to actuating the brake is next to nil. I'm wondering if I should look for some other aftermarket tail light, or if there's a brighter bulb I can put in the factory housing. The previous owner installed some sort of multi-LED bulb, but it just doesn't cut it. I'd also like to purchase some retro-reflective tape to put on my helmet. Can any of you guys point me to something that would help with visibility? I liked the look of that black 3M tape I saw that shines back white, but I'm not sure if that's the best stuff to use. My helmet is a silver RF-1000.
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Nov 28, 2012 05:00
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The 625's just didnt have great lights period. I think your best bet would be to go with a known good LED light like the DRC Edge. Looks like the Edge 2 comes in a universal version, but they dont make one specifically for the 625 http://www.drcproducts.com/elect/d45-29-34/index_plastic.html Either way, the Edges are made using actually good componentry and arent the typical terrible LED setups you see coming out of China. As for the helmet, tapeworks makes really nice reflective tape that isnt duct tape huge like other reflective tape. They sell bulk reflective tape at $12/foot http://www.tapeworks.com/ColorChart/ColorChartfr1.html#anchor In the following styles: http://www.tapeworks.com/ColorChart/reflectives.html Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 15:18 on Nov 28, 2012 |
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Nov 28, 2012 15:15
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The Hella 90mm universal halogen modules are freakishly bright too if you don't mind retrofitting it into your housing.
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Nov 29, 2012 22:28
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Could you direct me to this halogen module you speak of? I think I'm going to go with the DRC Edge 2. The videos I've seen of it make it out to be pretty bright. I'm not entirely surer how I'll go about installing it, but I can figure that out. At $30, it seems like not a bad deal. Do any of you guys have experience with a brake light flasher? There's a replacement board for the Edge 2 made by a company called "12 O'clock Labs" that adds turn signals and flashing functionality, but I'm satisfied with my OEM turn signals for now. It's also $90.
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Dec 3, 2012 05:11
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I only found it when searching for Bandit headlight mods because Hella's main distributor has a page that rivals most Geocities sites. http://planetbuhs.net/motorcycling/5-bandit-hella-mod http://www.flickr.com/photos/wordman/sets/72057594136176078/ Basically you can just stick them in anything with a bit of magic. They work wonderfully and are a significant improvement over most stock lights.
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Dec 3, 2012 05:26
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Someone buy these. What a drat good deal http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?135791-Ohlins-Front-Forks
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Dec 3, 2012 22:49
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Those are basically just stock forks with an Ohlins sticker on them. They don't have the high end Ohlins valving/etc, it's the same as the "Ohlins" forks that are on the Daytona 675R or whatever, the OEM spec Ohlins are budget versions of their stuff, which basically makes it the same as every other suspension company out there. That's why he's having a hell of a time selling them at half the price of what a typical set of aftermarket Ohlins forks would go for.
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Dec 3, 2012 23:07
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They're also from 2001ish.
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Dec 3, 2012 23:09
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That sucks. I would have bought them if it didnt also mean new triples, wheel, brakes, guards, etc.
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Dec 4, 2012 03:19
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Z3n posted:Those are basically just stock forks with an Ohlins sticker on them. They don't have the high end Ohlins valving/etc, it's the same as the "Ohlins" forks that are on the Daytona 675R or whatever, the OEM spec Ohlins are budget versions of their stuff, which basically makes it the same as every other suspension company out there. Small sidenote: The 675R has proper NIX30 forks, not the usual R&T garbage.
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Dec 4, 2012 11:27
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Small sidenote: The 675R has proper NIX30 forks, not the usual R&T garbage. Truth. The rear is also a TTX36.
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Dec 4, 2012 12:35
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Small sidenote: The 675R has proper NIX30 forks, not the usual R&T garbage. If they dont have the machined lowers theyre not legit!  But seriously, I love crazy suspension as much as the next guy but you are far better off with a properly valved and sprung stock setup over ohlins that are the wrong spring rate and valving.
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Dec 4, 2012 16:37
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Z3n posted:If they dont have the machined lowers theyre not legit! I thought about that too. I'm probably better served by respringing my stock stuff, which isnt that bad to begin with.
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Dec 4, 2012 17:17
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What advice would you give for someone getting on a supermoto for the (nearly) first time? I'm back home for the first time in nearly two months and I want to get my sister back on the DRZ. Last time she 12 o'clocked right in front of her husband. He's gotten over the trauma; he passed his big bike test yesterday. My sister and I have talked through the accident. Too much throttle (much lighter spring than her ER-5), nearly dumped the clutch (ditto), weight on bum rather than pegs and not gripping with her knees. Also leaned back slightly, which didn't help when the bike started tending towards the vertical. She's never even attempted to wheelie, so I've talked her through some of the idea. Like hitting the rear brake to bring the nose down, and keeping the bars straight. Anything I've missed? I reckon it's mostly a confidence issue and she just needs to be back on. Also, I think the best way to teach her to deal with unexpected wheelies is to deal with some expected wheelies first.
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Dec 5, 2012 11:27
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What was her wrist position like on the throttle? If it was all the way forward when the throttle was closed, then the unexpected acceleration might have caused a feedback loop that helped her wheelie (bike goes forward, she goes backward, she twists the throttle more, bike goes more forward, etc.). Remind them to keep a neutral wrist position at closed throttle, especially when starting out on an unfamiliar bike. Also remind them to feather the clutch and lean forward before accelerating.
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Dec 5, 2012 14:13
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Safety Dance posted:What was her wrist position like on the throttle? If it was all the way forward when the throttle was closed, then the unexpected acceleration might have caused a feedback loop that helped her wheelie (bike goes forward, she goes backward, she twists the throttle more, bike goes more forward, etc.). I'm pretty sure that feedback loop is what the major cause of the accident was. In her words she'd got thrown backwards when the bike went forwards, and then once the bike was on the way up, she didn't know what to do. The bike seemed to pause at about half ten - 11 o'clock before it launched her off the back. The lean forwards thing is important as well. I've done some really vicious starts since then whilst leaning forwards; nothing happened. That and covering the rear brake. I am unsure how to start on the topic of wheelieing intentionally.
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Dec 5, 2012 21:08
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Orange Someone posted:What advice would you give for someone getting on a supermoto for the (nearly) first time? I'm back home for the first time in nearly two months and I want to get my sister back on the DRZ. Last time she 12 o'clocked right in front of her husband. Any chance she's going to offer classes? I need to learn to wheelie my DRZ.
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Dec 5, 2012 23:24
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I'll ask
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Dec 5, 2012 23:52
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