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DamnGlitch posted:My car had been getting louder and then was starting to sound a bit like there was a turbine in the backseat on my way back from IL. Bad bearing / wheel hub assembly. I'll have to bring it by the shop on Monday then. I had 2 new tires put on it in July, but I'm fairly certain those were in the front, not rear. I think the sound started a month or so later. drat car just ran out it's warranty and things are gonna start breaking. I miss my Saturn  fake edit: Thanks for the responses!
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Nov 6, 2012 20:41
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I'm having the FC RX7 Turbo I bought a while ago worked over in a shop. They're trying to figure out an inability to hit stock peak boost. They replaced a few vacuum lines that were leaky, and are going to double check everything, but now they suspect the turbo itself. "When a turbo fails it is usually one of a couple ways. Car smokes at idle, oil is getting past the seals and is burning off in the down pipe. Yours has no smoke and we replaced the down pipe which had no evidence of this. We also check for axial play on the turbine shaft, yours is pretty tight. This make your turbo problem the hardest to diagnose. It looks good, feels good with no play but the telltale is no boost when set up to make all the boost in the world [they took off the boost controller to unlimit boost]." Does that sound right?
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Nov 6, 2012 21:26
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kimbo305 posted:I'm having the FC RX7 Turbo I bought a while ago worked over in a shop. They're trying to figure out an inability to hit stock peak boost. They replaced a few vacuum lines that were leaky, and are going to double check everything, but now they suspect the turbo itself. Do you still have the OEM cats on it? They are probably clogged by now.....
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Nov 6, 2012 22:06
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Jeff Gerber posted:Is this just a case of my cheapie coil making GBS threads the bed? Why did i get a misfire/blinking cel this time instead of the ignition coil fault code? Can you test ignition coils? Could this be symptomatic of another issue? Where is my shirt? A blinking CEL means the ECU has detected a constant misfire, one that will destroy the catalytic converter in a hurry. A solid CEL with a misfire code usually means an intermittent misfire. Coils in particular are pretty finicky bastards, you may want to look into either a junkyard coil or a new OEM coil.
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Nov 6, 2012 22:12
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Brigdh posted:Do you still have the OEM cats on it? They are probably clogged by now..... I should hope this shopped checked backpressure by now considering the rest of the work mentioned.
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Nov 6, 2012 22:12
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I have a 99' honda civic DX hatchback, manual transmission. It has the D16Y7 motor. Over the past year I have had problems with it cutting out intermittently while I'm driving and it seemed to be mostly when it was hot. I pulled out the main relay and re-soldered all the connections but it didn't solve the problem. So then I discovered that if I held the key forward as if to turn on the starter it would keep the power on so obviously it was a problem with the ignition switch which I have a new one coming today to swap out. However, yesterday I couldn't get the car to start at all. The ignition will run the starter but the engine never fires up. I pulled out the ignition switch and took the plastic housing off and cleaned all the contacts hoping it would at least get it started but no luck. I pulled up the back seat so I could listen to the fuel pump and as far as I can tell it isn't turning on. Though to be honest I have never noticed it before so I'm not sure if I would hear it even if it was on. I then replaced the main relay with a new part from the store but no luck. Then I checked to see if power was being applied to both of the relays inside the 'main relay' housing. If you aren't familiar with the civic main relay there are two relays on the board, one to the fuel pump and one to the ECU, or at least that is how I understand it. I could be wrong. So one of the relays isn't getting power to switch it on. I'm hoping that just replacing the ignition switch will solve the problem, but at this point I'm kind of worried I might be over looking something. Also I checked all the fuses so they are good. Any advice or suggestions on other trouble shooting options would be greatly appreciated. Noxious fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Nov 6, 2012 |
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Nov 6, 2012 23:07
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Noxious posted:Any advice or suggestions on other trouble shooting options would be greatly appreciated. Wait for the ignition switch before shotgunning more parts at the car. This is very likely the culprit. You did test all contacts after rebuilding it, right?
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Nov 6, 2012 23:19
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Viggen posted:Wait for the ignition switch before shotgunning more parts at the car. This is very likely the culprit. You did test all contacts after rebuilding it, right? No, and that would have been the obvious thing to do. I just sort of wiped out all the carbon build up and made sure it looked good. So now I'm going to go do that. Thanks! Kind of feel stupid for not checking them.
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Nov 6, 2012 23:39
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Does anyone have a hard source about the 2012 Dodge Ram 3500's automatic transmission being incapable handling 450 horsepower or more? Asking because my dad just bought one for hauling(4000 pound dual axel trailer and 9400 pound Kubota excavator plus whatever else we need on a job). He was told the automatic was superior for hauling, and the stats sheet supported it. No, when looking to see if we can get some more power into it, we've seen word of 450+ horsepower causing damage to stock automatic, but not standard transmissions.
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Nov 6, 2012 23:41
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MohawkSatan posted:Does anyone have a hard source about the 2012 Dodge Ram 3500's automatic transmission being incapable handling 450 horsepower or more?
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Nov 7, 2012 01:06
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those have either 47RE or 48RE autos in them... they can be built, but will still blow up eventually if you romp on them hard enough. If they're anything like the 46RE (since people use 47/48re upgrade parts to upgrade 46REs, I think they are) I believe my response will have to be "oh man, so sorry you were misinformed."
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Nov 7, 2012 01:11
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I just got a new (new to me, it's got 120k on it) car, a 2008 Toyota Yaris 4D hatchback. It didn't come with snow tires. I still have the tires from the old car, but they're 195/65R15 (not on rims) and the Yaris takes 175/65R14. I've never had to buy tires before and I'm honestly not sure what I should be looking for. Should I get the new tires with rims? If not, do all of the specs need to match up, or just diameter, or just diameter and width, or what? If so, should the new rims be 14" as well, or will anything marked as compatible with this model of car do? Also, not hugely important, but why is tire width measured in mm but radius in inches? 
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Nov 7, 2012 04:04
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Just replaced my radiator. I have no idea how to dispose of the old one - I assume I can't just chuck it in the trash, right?
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Nov 7, 2012 04:05
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Why not? It's just aluminum and plastic with slight coolant residue, no different from throwing away an empty jug really.
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Nov 7, 2012 04:08
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some texas redneck posted:Just replaced my radiator. I have no idea how to dispose of the old one - I assume I can't just chuck it in the trash, right? When in doubt,
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Nov 7, 2012 04:10
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Bring it to the scrapyard. Aluminum's worth some pretty decent money right now, get a few packs of smokes or some beer out of it on your way back home. It'll be worth more if you break/cut the plastic end tanks off and toss em, and remove any steel. Then you get clean aluminum scrap rate instead of aluminum radiator scrap rate. Hell, I've got a couple I really should bring in soon. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Nov 7, 2012 |
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Nov 7, 2012 04:17
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So my wife's 2007 Yaris's steering column has been making this creaking clonking noise. I have no idea what it is (figuring something came loose/needs oiled). Have any idea what it may be? It happens just turning the wheel a little bit - doesn't require you to turn the wheel way to the left or right to get it to make the noise.
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Nov 7, 2012 04:48
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Brigdh posted:Do you still have the OEM cats on it? They are probably clogged by now..... Motronic posted:I should hope this shopped checked backpressure by now considering the rest of the work mentioned. The whole exhaust system was rusty cheese so the downpipe on back got replaced. Clogged cat was the first hope for this boost issue.
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Nov 7, 2012 08:28
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ToxicFrog posted:I just got a new (new to me, it's got 120k on it) car, a 2008 Toyota Yaris 4D hatchback. It didn't come with snow tires. I still have the tires from the old car, but they're 195/65R15 (not on rims) and the Yaris takes 175/65R14. The overall diameter of your Yaris's tires is smaller than the old tires, so there's a chance that trying to cram the larger tires in there will cause issues with rubbing. You have two options for buying snow tires:
ToxicFrog posted:Also, not hugely important, but why is tire width measured in mm but radius in inches? There's no real reason beyond retardation.
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Nov 7, 2012 14:31
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kimbo305 posted:The whole exhaust system was rusty cheese so the downpipe on back got replaced. Clogged cat was the first hope for this boost issue. S4 or S5? What has been done to the car? I assume they are using some external means of checking boost levels as the stock system is a bit inaccurate...
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Nov 7, 2012 18:40
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I'm having something of an east coast post-hurricane emergency. I need to siphon gas from one car and put it in another. The car donating the gas is a 1995 Cutlass Ciera with a 3/4 full tank and the siphon's neck is ~18 long. Siphon's a plastic type from the hardware store if that makes a difference. The problem is that I can't seem to get any gas with my siphon. I can smell the fumes from the Ciera's gas tank but that siphon just doesn't seem to actually touch any gas when I put it in the gas hole (even gave it a tiny taste test. Nothing) My guess is that the length of the siphon isn't long enough or the angle it's going into the gas tank is funky. Anyone with siphon/oldsmobile experience?
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Nov 7, 2012 21:53
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Look under your car at the bottom of the gas tank. If that's more than 18 inches from the cap (and it is), that's a problem. Find any kind of hose that'll reach, and instead of going from one car straight to the other, siphon from the car into a gas can on the ground...it NEEDS to be lower than the car's gas tank (this may also be a problem going from car to car). At that point generate a vacuum to pull gas up the hose...once it hits the turndown point it'll flow on its own. The easiest way to generate that vacuum is lung power, but it's not especially healthy. If you go that path, don't make it a habit. Edit: VVV Well, poo poo. Godholio fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Nov 7, 2012 |
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Nov 7, 2012 22:26
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Also, my 1988 Olds Delta had an anti-siphon mesh about halfway down the tank filler tube. Don't know if they do that anymore, though.
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Nov 7, 2012 22:29
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I am using a gas can as an intermediate step. Didn't think it would be relevant. Thing is, I'm already pressing the siphon into the gas tank as far as it can reach. If there is an anti-siphon mesh it's deeper than my siphon can reach anyway, which doesn't make too much sense. Must not have one. I took a look under the car to verify there were no gas tank shenanigans and it looks fine. That is to say I found a rectangular shape about the size of a large suitcase below the gas hole (Is that really the name? Not even gas portal?) I'm assuming that's the tank. Regardless, my understand is to buy a length of hose and give it another shot? Edit: Oh! Before I forget. Anything I should know about hose types? Are there any materials that could melt or foul the gas? ImmovableSquid fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Nov 7, 2012 |
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Nov 7, 2012 22:39
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ImmovableSquid posted:I am using a gas can as an intermediate step. Didn't think it would be relevant. Thing is, I'm already pressing the siphon into the gas tank as far as it can reach. If there is an anti-siphon mesh it's deeper than my siphon can reach anyway, which doesn't make too much sense. Must not have one. I took a look under the car to verify there were no gas tank shenanigans and it looks fine. That is to say I found a rectangular shape about the size of a large suitcase below the gas hole (Is that really the name? Not even gas portal?) I'm assuming that's the tank. Regardless, my understand is to buy a length of hose and give it another shot? I just went through all this last night. Sorry, but I don't think you will have any success using the method you are describing. I think most (if not all) modern tanks are baffled in ways to prevent opportunistic thieves from draining your tank while you're away. The way I did it was to disconnect the fuel line going into the motor, slip a section of 3/4 hose over the end with a line into an HDPE drum, and jump the fuel pump with a paper clip. I pulled about 10 gallons out of my Escalade this way. It's not good to sub heater hose for gas line on a permanent basis, but for the few minutes you will have gas running through it, it will be fine. I could give you an exact step-by-step on how to do this in an '03 Escalade, but don't have any specifics on your Cutlass.
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Nov 7, 2012 23:26
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Brigdh posted:S4 or S5? What has been done to the car? I assume they are using some external means of checking boost levels as the stock system is a bit inaccurate... '91 S5. Yeah, I assume they plugged in somewhere to measure boost. The car was 100% stock before I put it into the shop.
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Nov 8, 2012 00:20
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kimbo305 posted:'91 S5. Yeah, I assume they plugged in somewhere to measure boost. The car was 100% stock before I put it into the shop. Hmm. All the other possibilities I can think of would require some kind of modification to explain what you are seeing. Dead turbo seems likely. Hopefully its salvageable and can be rebuilt
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Nov 8, 2012 00:31
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Brigdh posted:Dead turbo seems likely. Hopefully its salvageable and can be rebuilt What decreases the turbo's output/effectiveness without shaft play? Would the turbine fins be worn down?
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Nov 8, 2012 00:34
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kimbo305 posted:What decreases the turbo's output/effectiveness without shaft play? Would the turbine fins be worn down? Wastegate malfunction (but you should still get some boost due to the limited wastegate size), damage (usually you sucked something, or the balance became off), or the housing/header cracked which is common. On the S5, you need to tear the turbo off to see which one it might be.
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Nov 8, 2012 00:48
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Did you know that a week long sun roasted bird on the driver seat, some lynx deodorant, cheap fly spray and fuel vapour make a reasonable if not overpowering facsimile of classic VW smell? How do I get rid of the smell?. Please! It's horrible. Oh, to be rules compliant, 1975 VW camper to this point devoid of any real smell.
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Nov 8, 2012 05:44
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I'm going to change my cars oil, I noticed it says I should replace the washer on the drain plug with a new one, how important is it to be new? How do I work out what size washer to get as my manual doesn't specify? Also gear changes sometimes don't feel smooth , do I need to replace my transmission oil? When I change the oil, is it OK to have the front on ramps and the back on jacks?
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Nov 8, 2012 10:07
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Crankit posted:I'm going to change my cars oil, I noticed it says I should replace the washer on the drain plug with a new one, how important is it to be new? How do I work out what size washer to get as my manual doesn't specify? Is it a red car? I really hope not, red cars are bad news. For the washer, do you know if its a crush washer or a rubber one? If its the former you'll want to replace it (parts store should have them for under a dollar,) if its the latter as long as it hasn't fallen off during an oil change and the pan doesn't leak after the plug has been torqued down there's no need to replace it. If you're changing the oil you can put the front on ramps, apply the parking brake and brace the rear wheels with a brick, piece of 4x4 or wheel chock (really anything that will keep it from rolling back down the ramp and on top of you.)
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Nov 8, 2012 10:40
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Geoj posted:Is it a red car? I really hope not, red cars are bad news. It's a red car  OK I've done some googling with my car model and "crush washer" and I think it has a crush washer or copper washer (or is copper a crush washer too?). My question about the ramps was because haynes says I need to have my car level, or is that not a problem?
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Nov 8, 2012 11:19
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General_Failure posted:Did you know that a week long sun roasted bird on the driver seat, some lynx deodorant, cheap fly spray and fuel vapour make a reasonable if not overpowering facsimile of classic VW smell? I don't know if such a thing would completely eliminate the smell, but it would get rid of all of the visible (and sticky) residue from your concoction of horrors, which would at least cut things down a bit. Lots of hot soapy water and elbow grease is also going to help. You'll probably have to pull the seat(s) and lift the carpet, maybe pull some interior trim pieces off and make sure no slime got in behind. Also, what the hell, man? How did you have that combination of things sitting in the vehicle in the hot Australian sun for a week?
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Nov 8, 2012 12:45
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Crankit posted:It's a red car Well considering that Crankit posted:I've got a Renault Clio 1.4 petrol. which is FWD, the drain plug most likely points rearward. Ideally the car would be level, but the point is to make sure the oil isn't puddling away from the drain plug so it all drains out. As long as the rear isn't jacked up higher than the front you'll be fine.
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Nov 8, 2012 13:23
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I just bought used car and the guy who had it before I guess put his elbow here a lot like I do. Is there some way I can patch this (it does not have to look good) with a piece of leather? It annoys my elbow and I know I'm just going to make it worse. I see an old black purse of my wife's or a planner in the garage just begging to get cut up but while I don't care if it looks a little janky I don't want to just slop on some kind of adhesive that melts in the sun and gets all over everything. Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Nov 8, 2012 |
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Nov 8, 2012 16:53
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Wagonburner posted:I just bought used car and the guy who had it before I guess put his elbow here a lot like I do. Instead of using glue, I'd sew the patch on with a thread that matches the stitching on the leather. But theoretically*, you should be able to repair that to very nearly new-looking condition. http://www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/How-To-Repair-a-Tear-In-Leather.php * Theoretically, because I've never tried it myself and I bet it takes practice to perfect the technique.
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Nov 8, 2012 17:11
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Crankit posted:My question about the ramps was because haynes says I need to have my car level, or is that not a problem? In general, it's fine to raise the front a bit to drain the oil. You need it level when filling to get an accurate reading. So, raise the car, drain, change the filter, replace the plug, drop the car, then fill. If using ramps, fill the oil before driving off the ramps. Leave out about 1/2 qt. until you do so, then read the oil level on flat ground. Uthor fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Nov 8, 2012 |
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Nov 8, 2012 18:57
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General_Failure posted:Did you know that a week long sun roasted bird on the driver seat, some lynx deodorant, cheap fly spray and fuel vapour make a reasonable if not overpowering facsimile of classic VW smell? ExecuDork posted:I went looking for a product named "Goo Gone" last week, it's abundant (and very useful) in Canada but I couldn't find it here in Australia. Maybe I looked in the wrong place. It's capable of dissolving away the long-rotted remains of a dead bat on top of a bookcase, so I believe it would be helpful against sun-roast-bird & deodorant. Look for something like this, but after you clean up the remains/source of smell, see if you can get your hands on an air ionizer. When I worked washing cars for Enterprise Rent-a-car a summer, I used that to get rid of everything from dog smell, cigarettes, and even mobile meth lab smell. Seriously, the worst I've ever had to deal with smelled like the renter had done unspeakable things to a family of skunks, but after an hour it was gone. It'll smell like ozone for a little while, but that goes away after 15 minutes of driving with the windows rolled down.
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Nov 8, 2012 19:14
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Uthor posted:In general, it's fine to raise the front a bit to drain the oil. You need it level when filling to get an accurate reading. So, raise the car, drain, change the filter, replace the plug, drop the car, then fill. This might not work so well if you have to start the car to get it off of ramps.
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Nov 8, 2012 19:49
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