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Hope everything turns OK with Neige! Thanks for the advice everyone. I spoke with the vet today, and we're bringing Helo in to see her tomorrow. She thinks its probably a sprain or a strain from the sounds of it, so hopefully nothing too major!
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Nov 1, 2012 23:55
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Our puppy has started play fighting with our 10 year old dog while indoors. She only used to do it outdoors. We're OK with this as long as both dogs are willing participants. The puppy always initiates the fight. The older dog will fight back, but he'd rather follow us around hoping we drop some food, so sometimes he is just walking around while the puppy bites his fur. They do this a lot and make a lot of snarling noises and mean faces, but neither one has actually harmed the other. Are their signs that we should be looking for that indicate the older dog has had enough and should be separated from the puppy? Looking for bared teeth and snarls won't work, since they always do that. Puppy is a 15 week old 8 pound Shiba Inu, adult dog is a 26 pound Sheltie.
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Nov 2, 2012 21:24
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Are you sure they're playing and it's not the puppy just being an rear end in a top hat? There's a noticeable difference between when my guys are playing and when one's just being an rear end in a top hat. They're quiet for the most part when they're playing, just a lot of grunts and wide open bitey faces; but when one's being an assface to the other there's more growling, snarling and teeth baring.
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Nov 2, 2012 23:43
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Aquatic Giraffe posted:Are you sure they're playing and it's not the puppy just being an rear end in a top hat? A little from column A, a little from column B? It seems to me that the puppy is being an rear end in a top hat by constantly insisting on play fighting (mouthing him, pawing at him) and the older dog is responding with a minimum level of play fighting; mouthing her and throwing her to the ground when she gets too pushy. The older dog's play fighting has always involved snarling and teeth baring, but he's only used to doing it 2-3 times a week with our other, now deceased dog. He was clearly enjoying that and it involved a lot of running around and jockeying for position as well as mouthing and wrestling. But the puppy wants to play a lot more often than he does. (And I'm not sure if he is comfortable playing with the puppy as actively/rough as he used to with a similar sized dog.) So I'm just not sure if we need to step and enforce a break at times or just let them stop on their own. They do stop eventually.
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Nov 3, 2012 14:05
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Whats a good method of getting a new dog to go to sleep? Bruce is a year and 4 months, a boxer/beagle mix and he's a extremely light sleeper. He falls asleep, but the slightest noise wakes him up, and when he wakes up he wants to go outside then wants to play. This happens a few times a night and I'm on no sleep.  Incidentally, how common is it for boxers to cockroach? When he does go to sleep he flips himself onto his back and curves into a crescent moon shape and splays his legs.
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Nov 5, 2012 16:49
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BigDave posted:Whats a good method of getting a new dog to go to sleep? Bruce is a year and 4 months, a boxer/beagle mix and he's a extremely light sleeper. He falls asleep, but the slightest noise wakes him up, and when he wakes up he wants to go outside then wants to play. This happens a few times a night and I'm on no sleep. First off, try to burn off as much energy as you can during the day. A tired dog is a sleep-through-the-night dog. On the same wavelength, no naps for a couple of hours prior to bed as well as no water 2 hours prior (if going potty is the thing waking him). Second, try getting some white noise going like a ticking clock (or iPad running a ticking clock app) while he sleeps. Third, if he's really just up and wants to play, come out and let him out to eliminate. If he doesn't, return him to his crate/bed area. Do not play, do not acknowledge. Also, try to make bedtime as different from nap time/alone time as possible. That way he understands better that when all the lights are off and its dark, it's bedtime, not playtime. If he's still waking up, maybe its an anxiety thing? How long have you had him? If you just recently got him, you may need to spend a night or two nearby his crate/bed/sleep area just to reassure him that you are still there. Then if he wakes you up, you can do my third recommendation very quickly (but he also sees you're around so it's okay to relax). This is mostly basic stuff but the first point is probably the most important.
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Nov 5, 2012 17:04
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Thwomp posted:First off, try to burn off as much energy as you can during the day. A tired dog is a sleep-through-the-night dog. On the same wavelength, no naps for a couple of hours prior to bed as well as no water 2 hours prior (if going potty is the thing waking him). Hey, I took him for 6 walks yesterday, and played with him with the squeaky toy, tug rope and the laser pointer. He's slept in my bed for the past two nights, but the slightest movement from me is enough to wake him up. He doesn't even need me, last night around 4 he sneezed himself awake. And we picked him up from the shelter on Saturday. I'll work on the no naps thing, that might be the tipping point.
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Nov 5, 2012 17:21
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That's so recent that I think it's very likely to be anxiety (at least in part). I know every time I move house or stay in a new place for a night, my dogs are prone to waking up at every little noise and wanting to investigate and/or play. He'll very likely settle down as he gets more comfortable, particularly if you follow Twomp's advice about sticking to a routine and not letting him play when you should be sleeping.
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Nov 5, 2012 19:48
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BigDave posted:Hey, I took him for 6 walks yesterday, and played with him with the squeaky toy, tug rope and the laser pointer. He's slept in my bed for the past two nights, but the slightest movement from me is enough to wake him up. He doesn't even need me, last night around 4 he sneezed himself awake. Oh yeah, it's just new place/owner jitters in your dog. Stick to a routine and don't give him anything that could cause him to wake up to go eliminate in the night (no water two hours before bed, no meals four hours before). The more consistent the routine, the faster your dog will relax as it gets used to this new place.
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Nov 5, 2012 20:28
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OK, thanks for the advise.   And Bruce thanks you as well. Any tips for helping him gain weight? The shelter said he was a little under-nourished, you can see his ribs pretty easily in that second pic.
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Nov 5, 2012 21:26
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BigDave posted:OK, thanks for the advise. He's not dangerously thin or anything, just feed him appropriately (according to bag instructions) for his weight and see how he does. Chances are he'll put on a bit of weight from this just fine (and honestly you may end up needing to decrease from this if he puts on too much), but honestly it's better for him to be on the leaner side of ideal than the larger side of ideal.
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Nov 5, 2012 21:41
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This may be better for the nutrition thread but feed him what his pet food recommends. Keep his activity level constant and see how his body adjusts. Still with the ribs showing? Add more food to his meals. Becomes chunky mcchunks? Subtract food. Every dog is different so just start out with the food's recommendations and go from there based on what you can see and feel.
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Nov 5, 2012 21:41
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How late is too late to train a pitbull to socialize with cats? My friends rescued a dog two weeks ago who they found in the woods on a camping trip. He's about a year and a half old, and just shook one of their many cats. Needless to say they are freaking out a bit, trying to find him a home and upset. I personally think they just introduced them too quickly, and need to give it time and effort. But I wouldn't want them to risk their cat's lives on my bad advice.
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Nov 7, 2012 00:11
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So, it appears that moving our 6mo IG mix into a crate in our room during the night and putting a fleece jacket on her to keep her warm has helped her not pee, but now I'm not sure which of the two things was the fix  I also don't know how warm she gets w/ the jacket on, is it possible to overheat a dog like that and if so, what signs should I be watching for? She's not panting or anything, so I'm figuring she's probably okay but I am a worrier :-/
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Nov 7, 2012 00:51
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Nevvy Z posted:How late is too late to train a pitbull to socialize with cats? After 3-4 months with my roommate's cat and my cousin's dog on unfriendly terms and being encouraged to hang out near each other without eating/being eaten, they would sometimes be seen in the same room together. I would worry more about getting the dog fully adjusted before you try to take pics of the cat sleeping on his head or something.
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Nov 7, 2012 02:43
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I'm not sure if this is the right thread for this or not. So if it's not, I can start a new thread. Anyway, I am getting my first dog in a couple weeks. I had dogs growing up but they were always family dogs and this will be MY dog. My husband and I currently have two cats and some fish. I am getting an adult dog because we do not have steady schedules to do housebreaking. The current dog I'm looking at is a lab/border collie mix. This poor thing was the last of his litter to get adopted then he was returned because he chewed (hello, puppy) and then was adopted again and returned because the family got divorced and no one wanted to take him. He is a big guy and his adoption listing says he still really likes to chew. So my question to you fine folks is: What are your favorite chew toys? I plan on doing the Kong/peanut butter trick and some nylabones but I didn't know if you guys have strong chewers and what they prefer. He will be going to work with me a couple times a week and doing doggie day camp once a week so hopefully he will get worn out. Sorry for the wall of text. If there is anything I left out, feel free to ask. Thanks in advance for all your help! You guys have taught me so much! Moss thanks you too: http://www.petfinder.com/petdetail/19720076
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Nov 8, 2012 18:12
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Most chewing problems with adult dogs stem from a lack of exercise and stimulation. It's more a symptom of boredom than actual problem if that makes sense. If you give him the proper exercise he needs, chances are he won't start chewing inappropriate things. Not that he shouldn't have toys though! But for good chew items: Antlers are popular and last almost forever. You can get them online all over, but I forgot the site PI specifically likes.
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Nov 8, 2012 18:31
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Oh yeah, antlers. Didn't think of those. I am hoping the day care and a couple walks a day will keep him worn out. We have a fenced in yard too so he can run. It's not a huge yard so I still plan on doing some walks during the day. We also like camping and hiking. Do any of you guys like any of those collapsible bowls or travel water things for your dogs?
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Nov 8, 2012 19:02
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Kerfuffle posted:Most chewing problems with adult dogs stem from a lack of exercise and stimulation. It's more a symptom of boredom than actual problem if that makes sense. If you give him the proper exercise he needs, chances are he won't start chewing inappropriate things. Not that he shouldn't have toys though! Elk antlers are where it's at. Deer antlers didn't seem to hold up after 2 and a half weeks with our power-chewing pup.
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Nov 8, 2012 19:51
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I recommend these painting bags all the time, though I don't know if anyone's ever gone for it.  http://www.aswexpress.com/discount-.../aquatotes.html Check local supply stores if you don't want to pay shipping. Bring a photo with you though. I've found that supply stores have no idea what the hell I'm talking about if they don't stock them and it's awkward to describe them. "It's a bag that holds water..and it folds..uhh"
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Nov 8, 2012 21:34
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Diaz doesn't like antlers.  I have a couple incomplete deer skeletons on my patio and she totally ignores them when she goes out. I WISH she'd chew them.I wonder if you have a deer/hunted animal processing place or taxidermist nearby you can get them cheaper...
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Nov 8, 2012 21:36
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Thanks Kerfluffle! Do you know if a place like hobby lobby would have those? They are certainly cheaper then the water bowls at the pet stores. And Husky, that is a good idea. I know the antlers in the store are crazy expensive. I will have to check online. I live in the middle of nowhere so hopefully I can find somewhere cheaper.
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Nov 8, 2012 22:22
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Not sure, I can't recall ever seeing them there. Their painting section is pretty sparse. I go to Hobby Lobby a fair amount for collage/craft stuff, but they generally don't have higher end art supplies. Also, Art supply ware house has awesome awesome prices on stuff, better than what you'll find in a majority of stores, but their shipping is a little steep. So I guess weigh what you'd rather spent $9 on, gas or shipping.
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Nov 8, 2012 22:28
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So after a few months my wife and I decided to go with looking for dogs from the animal shelter instead of buying one from a breeder/store. Turns out there's a woman that drives around to all the shelters and takes the small breeds (the youngest ones) and then jacks up the price to sell them but she acts like she's some sort of animal rescue operation.  gently caress the south, gently caress Charlotte.Guess we just have to check the page every day and try to beat her to the punch.
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Nov 9, 2012 18:17
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Scrubber posted:A little from column A, a little from column B? You might need to step in calmly to give your older dog a break if she is clearly getting uncomfortable. But remember, you have a 15 WEEK old Shiba. They are very energetic, stubborn, bitey assholes to begin with. I was around 6 7-9 week old Shiba puppies and all they wanted to do was scream in my face and bite me with their little needle teeth (when they weren't getting distracted by popcorn or falling over asleep  ). I do not think your puppy is fighting, I think she is testing boundaries and it's fun to bite at that age. Your older dog will help teach your puppy when things get too rough and he's had enough, but giving him some time alone wouldn't be a bad idea either. Teaching your puppy to not mouth people and to have a soft mouth for treats is good to start at this age, too. My 4 year old Shiba is still mouthy (they are just a mouthy breed) but he has learned to be soft with us and when it is and is not appropriate (like not with new people, never with food, etc.)
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Nov 9, 2012 19:12
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Are shelters not aware of her? She could easily be put on some kind of black list. A lot of shelters have simple contracts that saying you won't resell or give away pets you adopt.
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Nov 9, 2012 19:13
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Kerfuffle posted:Are shelters not aware of her? She could easily be put on some kind of black list. A lot of shelters have simple contracts that saying you won't resell or give away pets you adopt. I get the impression this kind of thing is condoned.
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Nov 9, 2012 19:46
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Orange_Lazarus posted:So after a few months my wife and I decided to go with looking for dogs from the animal shelter instead of buying one from a breeder/store. Orange_Lazarus posted:I get the impression this kind of thing is condoned. You'd think the shelters would be on to her by now? If you're certain and have evidence you should make sure that every shelter in the state is aware of this crazy bitch.
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Nov 9, 2012 19:48
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Cooper went to the dog park for the first time today and did fine except with one dog, a French bulldog puppy about his same size that was completely friendly and non-aggressive, I thought they would get along great but Cooper took an immediate dislike to him. Should I be concerned? He's played with other dogs, hasn't shown one sign of issues with dog socialization and got along great with all of the other dogs of all ages and sizes at the park. I'd say it was the other puppy's fault but it really was a friendly, non-aggressive puppy that got along fine with all the other dogs. I think Cooper might have just been overwhelmed by the situation and didn't want to play but he was outgoing to all the people and friendly to the other dogs. Three Olives fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Nov 11, 2012 |
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Nov 10, 2012 22:36
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Actually Three Olives in my experience Frenchies can be kind of jerks, very IN YO FACE. Some dogs don't like that. Sometimes it's hard to tell unless you know what body language to watch for. I don't think it's really that much to be concerned about, but make sure he gets socialization from all sorts of dogs--even the rude ones. Just keep reinforcing positive experiences! I think you're right too, it may have been overwhelming for his first time. Maybe sign him up for some puppy play time, where the manager knows all the puppies that come in. The Big Whoop fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Nov 11, 2012 |
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Nov 11, 2012 00:25
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Tiny Faye posted:You'd think the shelters would be on to her by now? If you're certain and have evidence you should make sure that every shelter in the state is aware of this crazy bitch. The woman at the shelter actually was the one who gave me her business card. Sephiroth_IRA fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Nov 11, 2012 |
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Nov 11, 2012 13:56
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Orange_Lazarus posted:The woman at the shelter actually was the one who gave me her business card. I don't think this setup is quite as cartoonishly evil as it might seem. There are some rescues that operate on the model of selectively pulling animals from a big shelter, getting them vetted and adopting them out (most often breed-specific, though I've seen a few that specialize in small dogs of all flavors). They don't necessarily have the donation funds or volume to offer them at the same cost as a high-throughput shelter, and they may get more thorough medical care than at a municipal shelter. There's a chance that the cost markup isn't actually all going into this lady's pocket. It gets specific dogs out of the system, freeing up shelter resources and reducing the kill rate of those specific breeds. I can see how the shelter might be OK with it. It's not all that different from the transport specialty adoption setups, that selectively pull high-demand breeds from rural shelters and ship them to urban areas.
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Nov 11, 2012 21:38
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I'm looking at adopting a dog (probably not a puppy) in the next couple of months. I'm in an apartment which I recognize has it's own challenges. Right now the plan is working out with work schedules and a walker that the dog will never be alone for more than four hours. I know it will take a while for the dog to get situated in it's new environment, so I plan on taking some time off. How long should I plan on needing to be at home all day, to reach the point that the dog is okay/not barking being alone for the expected 4 or so hours? And of course I recognize this will vary between dogs.
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Nov 12, 2012 19:15
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spidoman posted:I'm looking at adopting a dog (probably not a puppy) in the next couple of months. I'm in an apartment which I recognize has it's own challenges. Right now the plan is working out with work schedules and a walker that the dog will never be alone for more than four hours. Two things: 1) every dog is different and will adapt at different paces. 2) Crate train your dog so he loves being in his happy doggy special crate place. For item #1, I spent nearly a week at home with Linus. He was a puppy though so an older dog might not require as much time. No matter what though, be sure to stick to a schedule. Dogs appreciate routines and they will help them adapt better. For #2, a happy and safe puppy place will do wonders for your dog. Play lots of crate games so he develops a fondness for it. Give him stuffed chew toys full of high value treats every time you put him inside. Going in the crate = good times. After a day or two, your dog will love being in his crate and happily spend hours inside (but always remember to include at least a couple of toys or chewies to keep him busy).
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Nov 12, 2012 19:32
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So you might remember my posts from about a month ago--we adopted a 9 month old mix breed who was very, very shy. After 4 weeks at our place she was starting to come out of her shell until this weekend. Last Friday everything was great. We played outside, she was jumping and having a great time. We went to dinner and put her in her crate while we were gone. When we came home 3 hours later I smelled something off--looked in her crate and she had pooped. "No big deal" I think, "perhaps we were so busy having fun that she forgot to go when we were outside." Wrong. It was a big deal as she started pooping blood outside. Then she started vomiting blood. I'm in full panic mode as it's now 11pm and nothing is open. She drinks some water and vomits it back up seconds later. The nearest 24 hour vet I can find is 2 hours away. I'm scouring the web hoping to get some clue. I'm pretty sure it's an obstruction although I have no idea what she might have eaten. We take her in the next morning, waiting outside for the vet to open. They put her on an IV, do the full blood workup, give x-rays, etc. Liver enzymes are >2000 (normal is 118 or so), the vet tells me and asks if we have rat poison around (We don't to the best of my knowledge). She has to stay for treatment. Long story short, she was able to come home today (Thank God!). We still have no idea what caused this sudden attack. I think it has to be something she ate in the backyard but I spent 2 hours looking over every square foot of the place and could find nothing out of the ordinary. All I can think is at one point I saw a few mushrooms in the back yard but that was several weeks ago. Maybe she ate them? Any one have any idea what could cause such a severe reaction? We live in Western Georgia. I thought we had lost her and it broke my heart--I don't want to have it happen again ever.
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Nov 13, 2012 03:09
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IANAV, etc, so this is just a guess, but I would put money on a plant. There are a number of plants that are commonly used in landscaping that are ultra-toxic to dogs. This is one of the main offenders, based on word of mouth: http://www.aspca.org/Pet-care/poison-control/Plants/sago-palm.aspx (the symptoms match, for what it's worth - which isn't much) You can find a more complete list here: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/plants/
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Nov 13, 2012 14:55
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MrFurious posted:IANAV, etc, so this is just a guess, but I would put money on a plant. There are a number of plants that are commonly used in landscaping that are ultra-toxic to dogs. This is one of the main offenders, based on word of mouth: http://www.aspca.org/Pet-care/poison-control/Plants/sago-palm.aspx (the symptoms match, for what it's worth - which isn't much) Thanks for the link. Looking through it, I know we don't have any sago palms. We do have some "ivy" looking plants roaming around but IANABotanist so I'm not sure if it's one of the bad ones (or if she ate it in the first place). For now things seem back to normal--she's got a good appetite and is pooping and peeing normally. Our solution is to keep her from being alone in the backyard, which is sad because she really liked being back there running around. I can't chance a repeat incident so she will have to be happy with long walks for exercise.
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Nov 13, 2012 15:25
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Because sometimes this thread gets a little too down with new owner stress/puppy problems, here's Linus enjoying a stuffed Kong because he made it through his first day with no crate and no accidents. I'm cautiously optimistic that he's fully housebroken now.
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Nov 14, 2012 14:46
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I have a quick house training question. We live in an apartment with a 17wk old Corgi and aside from barking (oh god the barking) she's been pretty good. Since we live in an apartment, we had to use training pads until she had her last parvo shot a few days ago. So, since being 6wks old, she's been using the bathroom on training pads. Now that we're trying to train her to go outside, should we remove the pads completely? The reason I ask is that she's not super keen on using the bathroom outside yet. I walk her in the morning for about 20-30mins and she usually only goes pee but waits until we get back inside and then heads for her pad and poops. Another question is the crating. We're crating her at night and then back in the crate while we're at work and my wife comes home during her lunch to walk her. Since one of our cats is a jerk, he likes to get near her crate and it makes her bark, so we cover her crate at night to keep her quiet. She seems to be fine but I worry about her feeling isolated for a large portion of the day. Any thoughts?
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Nov 16, 2012 16:56
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| # ? May 14, 2024 13:26 |
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I Might Be Adam posted:I have a quick house training question. We live in an apartment with a 17wk old Corgi and aside from barking (oh god the barking) she's been pretty good. Since we live in an apartment, we had to use training pads until she had her last parvo shot a few days ago. So, since being 6wks old, she's been using the bathroom on training pads. Now that we're trying to train her to go outside, should we remove the pads completely? The reason I ask is that she's not super keen on using the bathroom outside yet. I walk her in the morning for about 20-30mins and she usually only goes pee but waits until we get back inside and then heads for her pad and poops. This is going to sound insane, but have you thought about bringing the pee pads outside and very gradually reducing the size of the pad like for the first few days use a full size pad, then half, then a third, then a fourth, etc until she's basically pooping on the grass and not on the pad?
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Nov 16, 2012 17:08
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