|
AncientTV posted:If the rest of the bike is stock, you can remove the emissions poo poo without worrying about the mixture, as long as you do it correctly. Bike is 100% stock, no exhaust mods, intake mods, jetting, etc. Got any pointers on doing it correctly? I took the entire system off the bike, so leaving it off would be pretty easy (ha).
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2012 16:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 3, 2024 15:45 |
|
|
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9948 Apparently I was wrong in that removing it could potentially screw with your exhaust system if everything is stock, specifically this: OP posted:Who should remove this system? With the stock exhaust in place, I have read that it may be a good idea to leave this system alone because if you did not lean out the exhaust with the cats in place you could cause converter clogging problems. No real proof if this is true or not... do so at your own risk if you decide to remove it. So you might want to leave it alone unless you're going to change the exhaust.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2012 21:24
|
|
|
AncientTV posted:http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9948 Yeah, I considered coughing up some cash for an Area P Quiet Core system, doing this, and a re-jet, but it's a lot of work and money for a bike I may not keep for very long. (Looking at upping to an SV650, or possibly a 600 by March of next year). For now, I am going to study my vacuum hoses and put it all back together exactly as I took it apart. This valve job is taking some serious time. I already put the valve train back together and one of the exhaust valves is WAY tight. Probably poorly seated shim or some debris in there. Looks like another couple hours to take it apart!
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2012 00:53
|
|
|
I ended up taking my sister's 250 to a mechanic instead of trying to do it myself, and if it's any consolation to you he told me to sell it before it needs another one done. I guess it's easier on a Hyabusa.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2012 18:27
|
|
|
You'll get a lot faster at it with practice...don't get too discouraged 
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2012 21:25
|
|
|
Argh, my buddy borrowed my bike while his is in the shop and apparently the shift lever bolt fell off. He's lugged it back to the shop in 4th gear. I googled this and it seems like a common problem and I need to find some blue loctite?
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2012 22:14
|
|
|
Common if it isn't torqued down enough, though I've never had a bike in my possession for more than a day before I loctited that bolt. I had one fall out on my first bike and I had to lug it home in 5th. Interesting, to say the least.
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2012 00:32
|
|
|
I just pulled the carb out of my friend's Ninja 250 and cleaned the gunk from the pilot jets. It was a pain to get started afterwards, but it started up after a jump and a bunch of chugging. What should the idle be? It ran okay idling around 3K, but it wanted to sputter and die below that. It also seemed really down on power when I took it around the parking lot. I'm going to try to replace his gas with fresh gas and charge or replace his battery. Anything else I should look at based on my rough description? (I'm going to see if I can get a copy of his key, just so I can break into his apartment complex and ride his bike once a week. I think that would be easier than de-gunking the carb every couple of months.)
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2012 03:05
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:I just pulled the carb out of my friend's Ninja 250 and cleaned the gunk from the pilot jets. It was a pain to get started afterwards, but it started up after a jump and a bunch of chugging. What should the idle be? It ran okay idling around 3K, but it wanted to sputter and die below that. It also seemed really down on power when I took it around the parking lot. Idle when warmed up should be around 1300, I believe.
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2012 03:13
|
|
|
Valves, maybe. If that doesn't fix it, vacuum leak or the carbs are still dirty.
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2012 04:00
|
|
|
XYLOPAGUS posted:This valve job is taking some serious time. I already put the valve train back together and one of the exhaust valves is WAY tight. Probably poorly seated shim or some debris in there. Looks like another couple hours to take it apart! Update: Redid the valve adjustment, double checked lash and it runs! I got all 4 exhaust valves to measure out at .01mm and the intake valves hovered between .007 and .008mm. I was aiming for .01 and .008. Re-assembled the fucker sans fairings and took her for a quick test ride. My impressions: off throttle response has improved and mids are noticeably stronger! Man this feels good. With several newbie mistakes and dropped parts in the motor, it took me a total of 12 hours. I would say this job is a pain, but now that I've done it once, I bet I can get it done in a night. I have almost all the bits for my glass-bottle carb sync tool. All I need now are some 3/16" vacuum Tees. Carb sync will happen before my next commute for sure. Then a quick oil change and I'll be good to go. Then its new tires time! 
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2012 06:33
|
|
|
You'll get valve adjustments down after a few times. Admittedly I don't have to use shims, but after doing 6 on my 250, it's a couple-hours-and-a-few-beers kind of job. As for carb syncing, I can already tell you that it's going to be impossible with one of those sync bottles if your valves don't all line up. This XYLOPAGUS posted:intake valves hovered between .007 and .008mm: is going to cause enough difference in vacuum to throw off any reading you may take. I'd recommend just bench syncing them, or, if you're willing, forget about it. The carbs on my bike are essentially the same, and they haven't gone out of sync in ~20k dong-ridden miles. If it's done incorrectly, it'll cause more problems than it solves.
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2012 12:44
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:I just pulled the carb out of my friend's Ninja 250 and cleaned the gunk from the pilot jets. It was a pain to get started afterwards, but it started up after a jump and a bunch of chugging. What should the idle be? It ran okay idling around 3K, but it wanted to sputter and die below that. It also seemed really down on power when I took it around the parking lot. Fresh gas and check the battery before you do anything else.
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2012 16:00
|
|
|
AncientTV posted:
I was a bit more comfortable with the concept of vacuum syncing than bench syncing, but if there's significant risk in messing things up then I'll look into bench syncing. Going to do some googling this evening.
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2012 16:04
|
|
|
So my sister's 250 has been collecting dust for a while and now it won't hold idle. I think she's one of those people that likes the idea of riding more than riding, so the thing just sits here. I rode it last year a lot and got a lot more comfortable riding on it so it was nice for that, but now the poor thing just sits. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAnyway. The last time it was run was super warm for sure, and I was trying to start it last night at around 45-50 degrees. First it took a while to even fire, but would eventually fire and run with full choke. Even after I let it warm a while(10-15 minutes I was fiddling with it) it would just die after taking the choke off. I fiddled with the idle adjustment screw a bit but couldn't get it to make a difference. Eventually I just gave up and rode to where I was going on my EFI bike, gently caress yah. So today I thought I'd mess with it again when it was warmer. Well, I'm an idiot because I had the idle adjustment screw turned way out and I ended up completely unscrewing it about 2 minutes after trying to mess with it today, so now I get to take the fairings off and fix that. Before I do any more damage, what should be the steps I take to fix this guy up? Start with it all the way tight and work out, or what? It also had a slight miss but I'm not worrying about that much yet since it's not been run in a while. nsaP fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Nov 6, 2012 |
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2012 21:02
|
|
|
Pilot jet is clogged. Backing the screw out didn't do any damage but you'll need to reinstall it, and if it has a lock spring, make sure that gets on there too. If you can get it to idle with the idle screw turned all the way in, then the pilot jet is still clogged. Those 250 jets clog drat near instantly, the passages for the pilots are tiny. Also put fresh gas in it and make sure the battery is topped off.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2012 21:20
|
|
|
Am I right in that the petcock is vacuum operated? Is there a quick and easy way of draining the tank with the vac operated petcock, or do I have to remove the petcock itself?
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2012 21:30
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Pilot jet is clogged. Backing the screw out didn't do any damage but you'll need to reinstall it, and if it has a lock spring, make sure that gets on there too. If you can get it to idle with the idle screw turned all the way in, then the pilot jet is still clogged. Those 250 jets clog drat near instantly, the passages for the pilots are tiny. Yeah, a spring and washer came off with it, I have them. Tendered the battery after last night but swapping the gas is a good idea. So I should start with it turned all the way in then?
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2012 21:34
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:Am I right in that the petcock is vacuum operated? Is there a quick and easy way of draining the tank with the vac operated petcock, or do I have to remove the petcock itself? You can put a clean length of tube on the vacuum nipple and suck on it  , or just take the petcock off.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2012 21:47
|
|
|
sirbeefalot posted:You can put a clean length of tube on the vacuum nipple and suck on it Sucking on a piece of vacuum hose and doing it that way is pretty easy. You're not going to suck down any gas, and its easier to drain the gas into a container, rather than have it go everywhere when you take the petcock off. Suck on it a bit, cap it with your thumb, let it drain out another tube.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2012 21:57
|
|
|
Smart. Time to add a couple random lengths and diameters of tubing to my tool box.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2012 22:10
|
|
|
If you're quick enough, once you provide enough suction to get the gas flowing, you can crimp the tube with something and just let it drain itself. I'll usually suck, and without letting off, bend the hose and tighten a zip tie down on the bend.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2012 22:21
|
|
|
nsaP posted:Yeah, a spring and washer came off with it, I have them. Tendered the battery after last night but swapping the gas is a good idea. So I should start with it turned all the way in then? Not all the way in. Not sure if you have a old gen or not but if you do a good place to start would be to tighten it to where it's just touching the throttle linkage cam thingy and then a little more past that. Doesn't need to be exact though since you'll probably have to adjust anyway once you get your pilot jet situation figured out.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2012 22:42
|
|
|
Better to have it turned in too far than not far enough. That screw just opens the throttle slightly. Too much and it'll just rev high, too little, and it will have a lot of difficulty starting.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2012 23:40
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Better to have it turned in too far than not far enough. That screw just opens the throttle slightly. Too much and it'll just rev high, too little, and it will have a lot of difficulty starting. Yeah I never looked at what it did before, putting it back on it's pretty simple there. It was warmer tonight so I put some fresh gas and sea foam in it. All the way in revved it to about 5k lol, but with a bit of playing it's running better. I took it for an Italian tune up and it seems to be doing alright, I'll ride it around in a few days and see. Gotta get new tires too...
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2012 01:42
|
|
|
I ran out of gas coming home from work the other day. In the rain. I noticed I was close to empty on the way out of the parking lot, and switched to reserve. Work's about fifteen miles from home. Ten miles later the bike quit on me. The heck? I know the reserve is supposed to hold more than that, right? Is something clogged?
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2012 06:02
|
|
|
Fifty Three posted:I ran out of gas coming home from work the other day. Sounds clogged. I've never had the reserve clog up, just the primary which I thought was weird because it seems like the reserve should clog pretty easily.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2012 06:15
|
|
|
A clog, or your petcock was partially on reserve beforehand and it was already draining a bit of gas in. I've pushed my reserve to 40 miles before, not really sure how much is in there.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2012 17:38
|
|
|
Well I have tried reshaping my seat several times and I'm still not satisfied, I'm either stuck with an uncomfortable sliding forward sensation or I get too little blood to my testicles, of both... Does anyone have a used Corbin seat they want to sell, it doesn't have to be in perfect condition I just want my bike to be comfortable enough to ride :/
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2012 18:33
|
|
|
Have you considered castration?  Why not ask a goon/some local biker if you can take a hoon on a bike with Corbin seating?
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2012 20:55
|
|
|
Odette posted:Have you considered castration? If anyone is in the Mandeville Louisiana area with a ninja 250 pre gen with a Corbin seat, I would appreciate an oppertunity to test it :p
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2012 21:04
|
|
|
Get the Corbin. I bought a new one and it is so, so worth it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2012 21:22
|
|
|
just so I'm entirely sure we're on the same page, are you endorsing this: http://www.corbin.com/kawasaki/kn-250-r-gl.shtml because that's the only one corbin currently sells for the pregen ninja 250... If you are... I don't know, I'm really tired of taking off the leather and shaving foam and stuff, I even ordered like 60 bux worth of that stupid gel and that doesnt do it... It's really ruining my ride experience, I just want a comfortable bike. I might go for it, 330 + shipping is a lot for a seat but its really ruining my riding experience, I don't want to have to worry about my junk when I'm riding, that should be the farthest thing from my mind.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2012 00:59
|
|
|
That's the one. No shaving foam, it is all done for you. Putting the seat on the first time can be really hard, it will seem like it doesn't want to go on, but you have to really force it in. And the first couple rides it will be stiff but when it breaks in it is such an improvement. No more wearing through the pad after 100 miles and your rear end getting all soggy.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2012 16:31
|
|
|
blue squares posted:That's the one. No shaving foam, it is all done for you. Putting the seat on the first time can be really hard, it will seem like it doesn't want to go on, but you have to really force it in. And the first couple rides it will be stiff but when it breaks in it is such an improvement. No more wearing through the pad after 100 miles and your rear end getting all soggy. Alright I'm sold, gonna order one, I really like how they want measurements from you and stuff. update: ordered... excited. Website seems straight out of the 90s, they still haven't calculated the shipping costs but my order is confirmed... Oh well, hopefully it isn't outrageous. ADINSX fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Nov 23, 2012 |
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2012 17:54
|
|
|
I've recently noticed that my choke doesn't produce any appreciable difference in engine speed or behavior until it's about 3/4ths of the way applied (engaged, on, whatever). Does this imply it's out of adjustment or broken or something? It could also explain why the bike has so much trouble starting in the cold.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2012 16:17
|
|
|
Fifty Three posted:I've recently noticed that my choke doesn't produce any appreciable difference in engine speed or behavior until it's about 3/4ths of the way applied (engaged, on, whatever). Does this imply it's out of adjustment or broken or something? It could also explain why the bike has so much trouble starting in the cold. This is normal for chokes.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2012 16:22
|
|
|
I found that after I did my valves, my choke functions much more noticeably. It could be that it is colder outside though. For example, this morning the bike started instantly at just below 50 degrees. Dies when any throttle is used so I put on some choke and it instantly jumps up past 3k and is ready to ride through the parking lot in a matter of seconds.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2012 22:11
|
|
|
The choke on my both of my 250Rs worked in a really narrow band. Changing from 25% to 75% engaged you couldn't even really see it move, just applied pressure and saw the idle go up.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2012 04:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 3, 2024 15:45 |
|
|
I saw the new Ninja 300 at the dealership today. There was a previous-previous (old style) 250 there as well and holy hell, the difference in build quality is amazing. The 300 is great looking in person, it's much wider than the previous models and gives it more of a "this is not a toy" feeling. The front brake felt nice and solid and the gauges were great.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2012 22:22
|
|