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Awesome feedback guys, thanks! Seems like a much cheaper alternative than what I thought I'd have to do. Do the carb tabs really work? I'd love to use those over making a solution for just a few bottles.
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Nov 13, 2012 19:43
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wattershed posted:A full tank will theoretically hold 4 gallons of propane, which in liquid form weighs ~5 lbs a gallon. That's how we get the "20 lb propane tank" thing, however federal law states that the tanks aren't to be filled to more than 80% capacity, so you're really getting only 16 lbs (3.2 gallons) in a tank unless you have it manually filled beyond that 80% or do it yourself. Definitely get an extra tank if you don't have a propane grill with its own tank that you can use in an emergency (or even if you do). It would really suck to have to get a tank filled/exchanged mid boil.
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Nov 13, 2012 20:00
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wattershed posted:As I was just reading about these things yesterday, a tiny bit of info for anyone interested. The following is for the blue rhino 20-lb tanks you can buy/exchange practically everywhere, and may not quite be the same if you're getting a tank continually refilled by a guy at a place (aka not just a tank swap): That takes a lot of guessing out of it. Thanks.
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Nov 13, 2012 20:18
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Our home's previous owner was going to build an outdoor kitchen prior to scrapping that idea and selling the place to us, but before he did he had the foresight to drop gas/electric/coax leads up through the concrete in the patio. We have the contractor who did our kitchen coming out soon to tell me what sort of setup I can get going with the natural gas lead to bypass this tank business altogether and eliminate one more thing to concern myself with on brew day. If anyone in this thread's done similar work, let me know of anything I should be thinking about along the way.
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Nov 13, 2012 21:00
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I don't have any helpful insight but, wow, brewing inside with gas in a safe environment would be a dream.
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Nov 13, 2012 21:12
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drat right. It says all over my bayou burner that you shouldn't hook it up to natural gas. But boy, I really wish you could as well!
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Nov 13, 2012 21:22
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They run at different pressures, but I know you can get natural gas burners for hurricane preparedness and such. edit - A quick googling tells me that it is easy and common to convert a propane burner to a natural gas burner. Imasalmon fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Nov 13, 2012 |
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Nov 13, 2012 21:35
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You can also buy conversion kits for most gas grills that make them work on natural gas. Doing a quick search for "natural gas burner" suggests there are plenty of options out there.
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Nov 13, 2012 21:39
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hellfaucet posted:Awesome feedback guys, thanks! Seems like a much cheaper alternative than what I thought I'd have to do. Do the carb tabs really work? I'd love to use those over making a solution for just a few bottles. The racking cane/bottling wand with a stopper method that Docjowles mentioned is a ~$4 solution that works perfectly. wattershed posted:As I was just reading about these things yesterday, a tiny bit of info for anyone interested. The following is for the blue rhino 20-lb tanks you can buy/exchange practically everywhere, and may not quite be the same if you're getting a tank continually refilled by a guy at a place (aka not just a tank swap): Angry Grimace fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Nov 14, 2012 |
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Nov 13, 2012 23:59
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Have my first batch of beer fermenting and I'm starting to wonder about bottling. I have a bunch of swingtop bottles that would be great, except they're clear. Does all light gently caress with a beer's taste or is it just sunlight? If it's all light I figure I'll just stick them in a paper bag when they go from the closet into the fridge. Will that be enough to protect the beer?
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Nov 14, 2012 00:35
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Newcastle uses clear bottles and they're always stored out in the open so ... I'd imagine it's just sunlight? I know literally nothing about the topic, but there's an anecdote for ya.
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Nov 14, 2012 00:46
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Bottled Newcastle also tastes noticeably worse then draft in my experience. At least when I get it at a bar. If you get a pack in the store, its always boxed so it doesn't get lightstruck.
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Nov 14, 2012 00:52
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wattershed posted:A full tank will theoretically hold 4 gallons of propane, which in liquid form weighs ~5 lbs a gallon. That's how we get the "20 lb propane tank" thing, however federal law states that the tanks aren't to be filled to more than 80% capacity, so you're really getting only 16 lbs (3.2 gallons) in a tank unless you have it manually filled beyond that 80% or do it yourself. Also, the last time I got my 20# tank filled they put in 4.3 gallons. wattershed posted:For the typical 20 lb propane tank (again, the blue rhino style), the tare weight of it is 18 lbs, so 18 + 16 = 34 lbs. If you weigh your tank after you exchange/fill it and it's more than that, congrats on getting above 4 gallons of propane. wargamerROB posted:I have a bunch of swingtop bottles that would be great, except they're clear. Does all light gently caress with a beer's taste or is it just sunlight? hellfaucet posted:drat right. It says all over my bayou burner that you shouldn't hook it up to natural gas. But boy, I really wish you could as well!
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Nov 14, 2012 01:34
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fullroundaction posted:Newcastle uses clear bottles and they're always stored out in the open so ... I'd imagine it's just sunlight? I don't know about Newcastle, but I have read that Miller uses a stabilized extract for their beer, so even clear-bottled products are safe from lightstrike. It's possible that Newcastle does the same thing, but I don't have any evidence either way.
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Nov 14, 2012 01:55
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Honestly, I've never noticed Newcastle in a bottle being skunked, and I definitely know what skunked tastes like. Just take a beer, set it out side and mow your lawn, and come back and it will be extremely obviously skunked. Heineken tastes bad not because its skunked when I get it, but because Heineken is gross.
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Nov 14, 2012 02:01
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Nostratic posted:I've been avoiding this thread for a while; I brewed my first batch mid-October, and it's now finishing out 2 weeks in the bottle. I decided I would set it aside and do my best to ignore it until then. I was fine until this past weekend when my best friend texted me, telling me to crack one open and taste it. I'd tasted it when I checked the final gravity, and told him what it tasted like at that point, but he wants a play by play now. Now I can't ignore the beer. It's like somebody took a huge neon side with an arrow pointing to the boxes that screams "BEER HERE!" every time I walk into the den where it sits. Open a bottle! It's a good learning experience to see how it changes over time 
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Nov 14, 2012 02:03
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Miller tastes like rear end when it's fresh so I'm not sure why they bother. Even compared to the other generic American lagers it's sub par.
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Nov 14, 2012 02:04
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Daedalus Esquire posted:Bottled Newcastle also tastes noticeably worse then draft in my experience. At least when I get it at a bar. If you get a pack in the store, its always boxed so it doesn't get lightstruck. Not trying to argue the point, but the only way it's sold around here is in "open" sixpacks. The bottles aren't fully exposed, but certainly enough for the sake of this conversation.  It's strangely difficult to find actual data/information on this topic. Lots of opinions out there though. Newcastle claims they use clear bottles so they can "show off" the beer BECAUSE IT HAS NOTHING TO HIDE 
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Nov 14, 2012 02:07
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Galler posted:Miller tastes like rear end when it's fresh so I'm not sure why they bother. Money. The answer is always money.
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Nov 14, 2012 03:21
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I guess I wasn't really thinking of 6-packs. Most grocery stores and beverage centers around me do 12-pack boxes or those mini-kegs.
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Nov 14, 2012 03:38
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Beer will skunk in a clear bottle in under 60 seconds when exposed to UV light. Miller High Life does use an unskunkable hop extract, but that's pretty much the only exception. Newcastle isn't very apparently skunky because there's barely any hops in it and if you're not really looking for it it's easy to miss.
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Nov 14, 2012 04:20
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Well I'm probably be keeping them in one of those stupid glass front winefridges so I'll bag em in the dark I guess. Thanks guys.
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Nov 14, 2012 07:38
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Any advice on ways to avoid negative pressure for bulk ageing? I mean besides "get a fridge."
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Nov 14, 2012 13:48
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Shameless obligatory post for how awesome home brewing is: I bottled my Sierra Nevada extract clone from AHS on Friday, it was my second ever batch. The first was Caribou Slobber from NB, which was good I guess if you like that kind of thing... Despite it not being fully carbed and not as clear as what you would expect in a pale ale, it was freaking amazing. The first one was so good upon initial taste, I put another in the freezer to quickly cool. I'm not a hop freak, but it had a perfect balance of hops and tasted sooooo good. I've got a Shiner Bock extract clone from AHS ready to go. I'll be making it sometime in the next few weeks with US05, instead of the recommended lager yeasts.  This one is going to take about 2-3 months to be ready, but I can't wait to see how that turns out.
LaserWash fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Nov 14, 2012 |
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Nov 14, 2012 15:19
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ag=hombrefin-20 15 gallon pots for under $50 courtesy of homebrew finds.
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Nov 14, 2012 15:37
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wargamerROB posted:Well I'm probably be keeping them in one of those stupid glass front winefridges so I'll bag em in the dark I guess. Thanks guys. Or you could line the door with something opaque.
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Nov 14, 2012 16:20
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How important are those last few days for carbing a beer via bottle conditioning? I have a batch I bottled on Monday and I'm hoping it will be ready in time for Thanksgiving. Do you guys think I cut it too close?
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Nov 14, 2012 16:43
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:How important are those last few days for carbing a beer via bottle conditioning? I have a batch I bottled on Monday and I'm hoping it will be ready in time for Thanksgiving. Do you guys think I cut it too close? You'll be fine, it may be low in carbonation, but it will have some fizz. There's a million myths as to how it all started, but no one is sure. VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV Midorka fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Nov 14, 2012 |
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Nov 14, 2012 16:46
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Totally forgot about Corona in the clear bottle conversation. That would have made more sense to talk about than Newcastle, as their marketing campaign is literally "leave our clear bottles out in full sunlight on the beach". Tried doing a little more research and found an article that claims the whole "lime in your Corona" was originally invented by them to cover up all the skunking. Don't know if there's any validity to that.
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Nov 14, 2012 17:33
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Toebone posted:Open a bottle! It's a good learning experience to see how it changes over time I chilled a couple and my wife and I tried it out tonight... I made beer! And it's pretty good!  Can't wait to decide on what to do for the next batch!
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Nov 15, 2012 03:36
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:How important are those last few days for carbing a beer via bottle conditioning? I have a batch I bottled on Monday and I'm hoping it will be ready in time for Thanksgiving. Do you guys think I cut it too close? The beer will be carbonated, but during conditioning lots of magical organic chemistry happens and the end result is that after a few weeks of conditioning beer just tastes better. How much of a difference that will make depends on how long the beer has been in the fermenter. If your beer was only a week old then an extra week conditioning will have more of an impact, if you kept it in either an extended primary (3+ weeks) or did a secondary fermentation then most of the ketones, esters, ethers, ect will have worked themselves out already. (I once had a beer that tasted like banana because a too hot fermentation produced a lot of esters) 99% of the time though the real tangible difference you taste is that subtler spices you used will assert themselves better after a few weeks conditioning.
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Nov 15, 2012 05:55
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Nostratic posted:Can't wait to decide on what to do for the next batch! This is truer than you think. You should decide very soon, because otherwise you will find yourself opening the last one and lamenting that your fermenter is still empty.
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Nov 15, 2012 07:39
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Ah the homebrewer's constant dilemma. I've found that if I'm not brewing the next batch by the time I'm opening the first bottles of the last one it's pretty much guaranteed I'm going to run out. I figure upgrading to do 10 gallon batches of my "standard" beers will be the solution, but I need to get to kegging first because I dislike bottling enough when its only around 50 of 'em.
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Nov 15, 2012 17:33
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So the Brewer's Publications Yeast book says 1 gram of DME per 10ml of water. It then goes on to say for a typical 2L starter to start with 200g of DME and add water until you get 2L of stuff. This isn't 10ml of water per 1 gram of DME. Which is right? Have I been making weak starters all this time by adding 200g of DME to 2L of water?
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Nov 16, 2012 02:06
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Prefect Six posted:So the Brewer's Publications Yeast book says 1 gram of DME per 10ml of water. It then goes on to say for a typical 2L starter to start with 200g of DME and add water until you get 2L of stuff. This isn't 10ml of water per 1 gram of DME. My usual (and I haven't had signs of strained yeast or anything less than a vigorous, quick fermentation) is a 4:1 water/DME ratio. I tend to stick with 8 cups h2o, 2 cups DME unless I need a huge starter (for 1.090+). The 8/2 ratio gets me about 1200ml to start with before I throw it on the stir plate.
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Nov 16, 2012 02:34
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1 broken bucket, 2 incorrect fittings, 25 feet of incorrect hose, 1 owned (and useful!) part left at the hardware store, 0 gallons of beer. Brewing is a productive and enjoyable hobby.
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Nov 16, 2012 03:27
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Prefect Six posted:So the Brewer's Publications Yeast book says 1 gram of DME per 10ml of water. It then goes on to say for a typical 2L starter to start with 200g of DME and add water until you get 2L of stuff. This isn't 10ml of water per 1 gram of DME. I do the second one (200g, then enough water to make a 2L solution) cause it's what Jamil says on his site. I dunno, it seems to work out fine.
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Nov 16, 2012 03:44
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Docjowles posted:I do the second one (200g, then enough water to make a 2L solution) cause it's what Jamil says on his site. I dunno, it seems to work out fine. It just seems odd that he says it should be a 10ml to 1g ratio and then says something completely different three sentences later.
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Nov 16, 2012 03:53
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Infected a couple beers with something throwing off tons of acetaldehyde (well after something should reek of acetaldehyde). Figure I'll just tell everyone it is either apple or elderberry beer. The one is a somewhat delicate tripel that it just overwhelmed. I secondaried a barleywine with a similar aroma but I'm hoping that's a bit ballsier of a beer that it won't dominate. Its an infection in primary so my most likely culprits are a strainer I had some grain debris built up on until I recently dishwashered it, or my starter process. I guess my fermentation fridge too cause the tripel open fermented because I had a mismatched bucket and lid and the barleywine airlock ran dry cause I never actually looked at it for the month and a half it was in primary. So the fridge got kitchen cleanered and starsaned.
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Nov 16, 2012 04:07
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