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Bottom Liner posted:I just picked up an AE-1 on Ebay last week and ran a roll of cheap Kodak gold through it. Any idea if my camera is causing these lines to appear on top? Can you see the line on the actual negative?
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Nov 12, 2012 22:29
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Bottom Liner posted:I just picked up an AE-1 on Ebay last week and ran a roll of cheap Kodak gold through it. Any idea if my camera is causing these lines to appear on top? Looks like a piece of grit in the film transport somewhere. It doesn't look like a hot scanner pixel. Check your negative and see if there's a scratch visible in the finish. Also, condolences on your purchase of a 35mm SLR that is not a Pentax ME.
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Nov 12, 2012 22:30
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Bottom Liner posted:I just picked up an AE-1 on Ebay last week and ran a roll of cheap Kodak gold through it. Any idea if my camera is causing these lines to appear on top? It looks like something's dragging across the film when you're advancing it. Is there something sticking out in the back that might be scratching the film? EDIT: Crap, beaten.
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Nov 12, 2012 22:32
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a foolish pianist posted:It looks like something's dragging across the film when you're advancing it. Is there something sticking out in the back that might be scratching the film? Not that I can see, no. I don't have the film with me now to check, but I looked in the camera under a good light and can't see anything that would have caused it. I'm assuming it could also be the cheapo Walgreens processing?
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Nov 12, 2012 23:16
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Bottom Liner posted:... I'm assuming it could also be the cheapo Walgreens processing? It's possible. I've had rolls of film come back from the local camera shop with ridiculously deep scratches that took forever to clean up digitally. I've had different kinds of scratches appear on two different rolls recently, so I'm pretty sure it's not something dragging along the film path. Poorly maintained minilab, perhaps? You could shoot a cheapo roll and try another lab.
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Nov 13, 2012 10:46
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Yeah that's a scratch, scanning artifacts would be straighter. Even if you don't see anything in the camera you should clean any bits that touch film. Frankly with 35mm the grit could have been in the light trap on the canister so there is no way of knowing exactly what did it. Just don't use the camera for anything important until you shoot a test roll (LOL important photos on 35mm).
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Nov 13, 2012 11:35
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I wasn't paying attention and loaded a roll of Superia 200 thinking it was Portra 400 and shot it at 1600. Is this even going to be worth developing? 
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Nov 14, 2012 18:49
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aliencowboy posted:I wasn't paying attention and loaded a roll of Superia 200 thinking it was Portra 400 and shot it at 1600. Is this even going to be worth developing? Yes, for science.
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Nov 14, 2012 19:09
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aliencowboy posted:I wasn't paying attention and loaded a roll of Superia 200 thinking it was Portra 400 and shot it at 1600. Is this even going to be worth developing? Push it to hell and back in b/w chemistry.
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Nov 14, 2012 19:26
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use paper developer.
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Nov 15, 2012 19:43
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Develop in tea or urine.
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Nov 15, 2012 22:23
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Push it to hell and back in tea and urine. edit-- I guess you'd need some instant coffee and vitamin C in there too.
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Nov 15, 2012 22:25
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The photo lab just called me and to make sure that I was retarded and I let them know that it was true.
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Nov 15, 2012 22:44
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Ugh. The Freestyle plastic reusable film canisters are trash. The felt light seal isn't fixed to the opening in any way, just seems to be loged in there with pressure. I pulled one of the felt linings into the canister rewinding it. Need to buy some proper metal reusable canisters.
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Nov 15, 2012 22:48
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Martytoof posted:Need to buy some proper metal reusable canisters.
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Nov 16, 2012 00:05
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aliencowboy posted:The photo lab just called me and to make sure that I was retarded and I let them know that it was true. This is hilarious, can't wait to see these.
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Nov 16, 2012 00:39
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QPZIL posted:edit-- I guess you'd need some instant coffee and vitamin C in there too. I just developed some paper with that yesterday! It worked well, though it was just some paint can pinhole poo poo so I can't judge it too harshly. Unrelated: If I want to pick up some c-41 chemicals specifically to cross process e-6 with can I reuse them for a bit like I can with B&W stuff? What's the kind of difficulty level with that stuff anyways?
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Nov 16, 2012 02:26
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 The Noble Bird by atomicthumbs, on Flickr rollei retro 80s is pretty nice, and if you have a lab develop it for you, their machine somehow makes it not curly so it's not an ordeal to get it into the film holder for scanning.
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Nov 16, 2012 05:17
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Great photo. I tell them not to cut it usually, so mine are curly regardless. I usually flatten the strips I cut under 40-50lbs of books before I try scanning.
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Nov 16, 2012 05:18
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Tunnelman posted:I just developed some paper with that yesterday! It worked well, though it was just some paint can pinhole poo poo so I can't judge it too harshly. Unrelated: If I want to pick up some c-41 chemicals specifically to cross process e-6 with can I reuse them for a bit like I can with B&W stuff? What's the kind of difficulty level with that stuff anyways? Check out this: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2864270&userid=161579&perpage=40&pagenumber=2#post389907786 It's very easy and can be done at room temp, but a sink full of hot water and some containers will do the trick. As for the home cross processing, you might need to either pull the film (eg shoot 100 ISO film at 50) and develop as described in the instructions for the kit, or push process (which I wouldn't recommend as c41 and e6 are standardised processes, and its a bit hit and miss to successfully push process at home). But, check up on APUG or whatever to find out properly, I only remember reading about that in passing. And you can can usually get 15 rolls or so out of a 1 litre kit.
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Nov 17, 2012 09:47
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So uh. I've been drooling after getting a DSLR for a long time, but its a hobby I've put off a dozen times over because of the $ cost and just stuck to reading books and looking at cameras. Then today I was messing around on ebay and I ended up buying a Minolta X-370S along with a 28-70mm macro lens, RMC Tokina 80-200mm lens, and a soft case for $10. I definitely lack the space to set up any sort of darkroom to do my own development and the only local camera place (a Ritz) shutdown a while back and isn't on the list of stores that might re-open. Are walgreens/CVS/Eckerds worth taking my film to be developed at? Or is there a site I can use to help me find other local film/camera shops?
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Nov 19, 2012 22:03
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Fuzzy Pipe Wrench posted:So uh. I've been drooling after getting a DSLR for a long time, but its a hobby I've put off a dozen times over because of the $ cost and just stuck to reading books and looking at cameras. Then today I was messing around on ebay and I ended up buying a Minolta X-370S along with a 28-70mm macro lens, RMC Tokina 80-200mm lens, and a soft case for $10. You don't need a darkroom to do black and white development, just printing. All you need for developing is a changing bag to load film into a daylight-safe developing tank. You can then either scan the negatives yourself or have Walgreens/CVS/Eckerds do it for you.
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Nov 19, 2012 22:23
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MrBlandAverage posted:You don't need a darkroom to do black and white development, just printing. All you need for developing is a changing bag to load film into a daylight-safe developing tank. You can then either scan the negatives yourself or have Walgreens/CVS/Eckerds do it for you. Awesome! Any suggested el-cheapo tanks/bags? A bit of basic searching leads me to JOBO for tanks and Bower for changing bags. the JOBO tanks seem expensive, but I'm not 100% on what exactly I'd need in a tank.
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Nov 19, 2012 23:08
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Fuzzy Pipe Wrench posted:Awesome! Any suggested el-cheapo tanks/bags? A bit of basic searching leads me to JOBO for tanks and Bower for changing bags. the JOBO tanks seem expensive, but I'm not 100% on what exactly I'd need in a tank. The JOBO tanks are for a rotary processor, you want just a simple manual tank: http://www.freestylephoto.biz/91216-Arista-Stainless-Steel-Tank-16-oz.-with-PVC-Top?cat_id=1603 and a couple reels http://www.freestylephoto.biz/140135-Hewes-Pro-Stainless-Steel-Reel-35mm-Reel?cat_id=1603 You can get generic reels, but the Hewes are worth the extra cost IMO.
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Nov 19, 2012 23:59
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eggsovereasy posted:The JOBO tanks are for a rotary processor, you want just a simple manual tank: gently caress metal reels. Wide-flange plastic 4 lyfe.
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Nov 20, 2012 00:44
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dukeku posted:gently caress metal reels. Wide-flange plastic 4 lyfe. Word. Just make sure their nice and dry before attempting to load them.
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Nov 20, 2012 01:05
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dukeku posted:gently caress metal reels. Wide-flange plastic 4 lyfe. Came here to post this. If you've never developed film before don't use metal reels unless you want to hate yourself
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Nov 20, 2012 01:05
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Ok, I'm going to grab some of these http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/40287-REG/Paterson_PTP119_Auto_Load_Adjustable_Reel.html to use with the tank he suggested. All that leaves is to find a decent bag. 
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Nov 20, 2012 01:38
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Fuzzy Pipe Wrench posted:Ok, I'm going to grab some of these http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/40287-REG/Paterson_PTP119_Auto_Load_Adjustable_Reel.html to use with the tank he suggested. All that leaves is to find a decent bag. Just get this tank (it comes with the reels already) http://www.freestylephoto.biz/5041-Arista-Premium-Double-Reel-Developing-Tank-with-two-reels?cat_id=1603 and this bag http://www.freestylephoto.biz/322730-Arista-Changing-Bag-27-in.-x-30-in. It's what I use and it's both a bag with plenty of room, and a tank that works really well.
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Nov 20, 2012 01:42
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Mr. Despair posted:Just get this tank (it comes with the reels already) http://www.freestylephoto.biz/5041-Arista-Premium-Double-Reel-Developing-Tank-with-two-reels?cat_id=1603 That's actually the bag I'd pretty much chosen. Are plastic developing tanks the same as stainless? If it's a noticeable improvement to use stainless I'm ok with dropping the extra $ on stainless right off the bat since I got such a good deal on the camera.
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Nov 20, 2012 02:15
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Fuzzy Pipe Wrench posted:That's actually the bag I'd pretty much chosen. Are plastic developing tanks the same as stainless? If it's a noticeable improvement to use stainless I'm ok with dropping the extra $ on stainless right off the bat since I got such a good deal on the camera. Stainless vs. plastic is a matter of personal preference - you load them slightly differently, as well. Since I never develop more than 2-3 rolls in an evening, I don't care about the fact that plastic reels have to be bone dry to avoid problems loading, and since I shoot 120 I appreciate how the plastic reels ratchet to load.
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Nov 20, 2012 02:18
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Fuzzy Pipe Wrench posted:That's actually the bag I'd pretty much chosen. Are plastic developing tanks the same as stainless? If it's a noticeable improvement to use stainless I'm ok with dropping the extra $ on stainless right off the bat since I got such a good deal on the camera. Instead of using a bag, I just wait until it's night time, go into a dark room, and climb under a blanket. It works just fine.
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Nov 20, 2012 02:21
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Fuzzy Pipe Wrench posted:Ok, I'm going to grab some of these http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/40287-REG/Paterson_PTP119_Auto_Load_Adjustable_Reel.html to use with the tank he suggested. All that leaves is to find a decent bag. Wide flange! WIDE FLANGE! http://www.freestylephoto.biz/55043-Arista-Premium-Plastic-Developing-Reel a foolish pianist posted:Instead of using a bag, I just wait until it's night time, go into a dark room, and climb under a blanket. It works just fine. C'mon, man, we're civilized here. Use a changing bag and don't risk it.
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Nov 20, 2012 02:29
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For the record that tank I linked should come with wide flange reels.
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Nov 20, 2012 02:32
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dukeku posted:
The blanket fort method is how I have always loaded reels.  I do use 3 or 4 blankets though.
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Nov 20, 2012 05:13
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gently caress plastic, one tiny spot of imperceptible moisture and you wrinkle or tear your film. It's stupid. Hewes reels are every bit as easy to load as a plastic reel.
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Nov 20, 2012 05:19
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One of my 120 rolls came back from the developer like this: img126 by Breanne Unger, on Flickr  Is there any easy way to fix it?
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Nov 20, 2012 05:56
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CarrotFlowers posted:One of my 120 rolls came back from the developer like this: Did the lab do the scanning? Those look like dirty calibration area artifacts. So if you did the scanning clean the glass and try again. Content aware heal can fix them but it's kind of a pain in the rear end.
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Nov 20, 2012 06:10
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8th-samurai posted:Did the lab do the scanning? Those look like dirty calibration area artifacts. So if you did the scanning clean the glass and try again. Content aware heal can fix them but it's kind of a pain in the rear end. Yeah I was hoping it was the scanning, but I just scanned a roll before that so I looked at three negatives and it's definitely on the negatives.
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Nov 20, 2012 06:16
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Those lines look pretty straight, so using the healing brush in PS, click once JUST above the photo while being in the centre of the line like so:code:It might take a long time, but the result will be great. bobmarleysghost fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Nov 20, 2012 |
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Nov 20, 2012 06:50
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