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Ah I see. That much play is pretty common on clutch side levers from my experience as they never seem to fit as well as OEM does unless you buy the new perch as well along with the lever for $$. I've never seen the brake side wobble like that though, even on aftermarket stuff as the mount is much more solid there. Is that an OEM lever? I feel like on an FZ it probably isn't but who knows.
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Nov 22, 2012 00:01
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nsaP posted:I have no rivets or gun so that's no problem, I was thinking more drilling and bolting that joint, but I figured if they used a rivet on it maybe there was a reason. In my experience it's the hole in the lever itself that wears out and gets loose. So to fix it you would have to drill the hole out to the next bigger size then find a bolt with a 1/2" shank, otherwise the sharp threads will wear the hole out again in no time. I would just pick up some aftermarket levers, like JP said it's probably more work than it's worth. You can use some of that vinyl seat repair stuff to maybe slow down the hole that's forming in the seat cover. VV My current seat is probably 50% gorilla tape. obso fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Nov 22, 2012 |
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Nov 22, 2012 00:28
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I've used gorilla tape to shore up a torn saddle. poo poo I used gorilla tape to mount my panniers.
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Nov 22, 2012 03:05
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My brother-in-law just failed his Mod 2 big bike test and thus has to retake it. Unfortunately, due to the change in the tests in January, his local test center is all booked up until Feb. So, he has to go to a non-local one, and his instructor doesn't know the routes. So he'll be going in effectively blind. Anyone done their test on unfamiliar routes? I'm convinced it'll be fine, just keep an eye out for gotchas, but he's a bit more than a wee bit worried, particularly after failing the last one (he missed a de-restricted sign buried in a hedge, so was doing 30mph in a 60 zone, plus he forgot to cancel an indicator). 2 bike tests and a car test, I honestly can't remember if I was familiar or not, and if it made a difference. I think it might be easier in some ways; my sister picked up a minor on her bike test because her tester told her to take the first exit and she was expecting the second, so set herself up for #2, then realised and headed directly for #1.
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Nov 22, 2012 10:02
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Xovaan posted:I dunno. Bikes only go as fast as you twist the throttle. I started on an SV650 and moved onto my Bandit pretty early on with almost no issues at all. Really a Street Triple won't be that much different if you learned proper instrument control on a smaller cc bike. I felt my SV650 would have been perfect had it been a tad bit faster (SV800 please? ...please?) and anything less than that would just be anemic aside from the giggle-fun-factor of a 75cc race prepped scooter or a "beginner" bike like a Ninja 250 or a GS500. I really disagree. Different bikes rev up at different rates and shove power in your face in different ways, the street triple being one that flies up the revmeter much more hastily than you'd expect. A very very small wrist movement will get you skyward, something which you just wouldn't be able to deal with (as you'd not have any feasible way of having a similar experience) coming from a small displacement cruiser. I might be fixating on the fact that you're using the triple as an example, but it, maybe specificially it, is a very bad bike for a relative newcomer. My 05 Z750 felt anaemic compared to the triple, nearly every bike I've tried has infact. I don't know what the general mindset is outside of the UK and Ireland , but I've never come across anybody that has been advised to jump upto a high power bike without taking intermediate steps. I'm fairly run of the mill in going 125,400,750,1050 in 6ish years. I really believe that taking those jumps or skipping steps would have lead to me having far more offs and incidents. Imo, you need to learn why and how a bike behaves in all situations on something that will forgive mistakes and allow you to make incremental improvements, rather than something that will throw you off for a slightly ambitious throttle hand.
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Nov 22, 2012 13:20
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_Dav posted:I don't know what the general mindset is outside of the UK and Ireland , but I've never come across anybody that has been advised to jump upto a high power bike without taking intermediate steps. I'm fairly run of the mill in going 125,400,750,1050 in 6ish years. I really believe that taking those jumps or skipping steps would have lead to me having far more offs and incidents. Imo, you need to learn why and how a bike behaves in all situations on something that will forgive mistakes and allow you to make incremental improvements, rather than something that will throw you off for a slightly ambitious throttle hand. The US doesn't have graduated licensing, displacement based taxation, nor a real culture of teenagers riding streetbikes. Out in rural areas, you'll have kids that grow up on dirtbikes and such, but in the suburbs and urban areas, there's nothing. Bikes are pretty much a "mid-late 20's, early 30's" or "I'm 55, work a middle management white color job and wanna ride a hog and dress up like a pirate on the weekend" thing. As such, the US selection of small displacement (<600cc) street bikes is pretty much dogshit. Up until about 2 years ago, your primary selection of 250s in the US consisted of the Kawasaki Ninja 250r, a bike that has remained mostly unchanged since 1984 with a wheezy carb'd motor and godawful 80's styling, save for the light refresh in 2008, the Honda Rebel 250, another mid 80's holdover UJM cruiser that is dangerous on anything above 45 mph surface streets, and the virago 250, see the Rebel. As such, most people if they're over the age of 20 go out and grab a middleweight bike, be it an Sv650, Ninja 650r, GSXR600, etc.
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Nov 22, 2012 20:14
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ThatCguy posted:The US doesn't have graduated licensing, I think this is the biggest one, though. Where I got my license, I could theoretically be 16 years old, go to the DMV, write a 40-question test on lane positioning and road signs, and hop onto an R1 totally legally as long as I didn't ride on the highway or after dark. Cause that makes sense.
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Nov 22, 2012 20:42
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I'm still not allowed to ride after 10pm at night, or carry passengers, or ride anything over a 250cc ... I really should go for the final licence test so I can kill myself faster. 
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Nov 22, 2012 20:57
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_Dav posted:I don't know what the general mindset is outside of the UK and Ireland , but I've never come across anybody that has been advised to jump upto a high power bike without taking intermediate steps. It's a US thing (mootmoot being the exception that proves the rule). I did my test initially in Singapore where there is three-stage graduated licensing, testing and training for each being even more carefully structured than the current UK awfulness. Over here obviously people are doing CBT then Mod 1 and Mod 2 and failing a lot. In Australia, I learned from Fred Gassit strips that the cops actually will beat you senseless for riding a motorcycle. Also that hedgehogs have innate mechanical skill - who knew? In contrast, when I needed a bike endorsement in the socialist hell of Massachusetts, the entire bike test in was literally to do two low speed circles and a figure of 8 in a parking lot. OK that'll do, go off and ride your 120hp death machine sir.  Basically the idea that you should be forced to have common sense if it doesn't come naturally is not widely endorsed in America because FREEDOM  Thus we have George Zimmerman, that element of southern cuisine known as bar-b-q and Christine O'Donnell. As a proud Freedonian I try to keep that spirit alive by riding like a dong through the wilds of West Sussex.
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Nov 22, 2012 21:09
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So my street triple burned through most of its oil in ~4000 miles. My dad thinks this indicates a major problem with the motor. Is it?
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Nov 22, 2012 21:09
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I'm planning on replacing my chain and sprockets in the very near future. As far as removing/replacing the chain, is this all I'm going to need to do so? http://www.bikebandit.com/motion-pro-pbr-chain-tool
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Nov 22, 2012 21:10
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:So my street triple burned through most of its oil in ~4000 miles. My dad thinks this indicates a major problem with the motor. Is it? It's certainly not a *good* sign... is it visibly smoking? And when you say "though most of it's oil" do you mean the oil level is now at the bottom of the dipstick/sight glass or the oil pressure light is on and you can't see any oil anywhere?
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Nov 22, 2012 22:42
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Same happened to my vstrom 650. I smelled oil on the ride to work. No oil pressure light, or warning light of any kind. Checked the sight glass and didn't see any oil at all  A friend helped me tilt the bike (the site glass is on the right, opposite the kickstand) and so there's oil, just below the sight glass (lower than L). I topped it up.  Topping up 4500km old oil with new oil of the same type is fine, right? Is it a coincidence that last fillup I got 6L/100 (47mpg) as opposed to my usual 5L/100 (39mpg)?
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Nov 22, 2012 23:00
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:So my street triple burned through most of its oil in ~4000 miles. My dad thinks this indicates a major problem with the motor. Is it? Why did you let it go 4k miles without an oil change?
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Nov 22, 2012 23:17
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Woops
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Nov 22, 2012 23:26
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:So my street triple burned through most of its oil in ~4000 miles. My dad thinks this indicates a major problem with the motor. Is it? From memory, both Performance Bike and Bike magazine lost 675s which leaked or burnt (more likely) most of their oil and then went pop. How often do you check the level? Because from what I recall Triumph's explanation was basically "check the oil before every ride, dumbass". I had been under the impression this was a problem with the first Daytonas that they had fixed. Maybe not?
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Nov 22, 2012 23:31
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epalm posted:
It's not bad to top up old oil but it's better to drain and fill it back up (just do an oil change when you've got time). As for mileage, I would call it a coincidence.
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Nov 22, 2012 23:34
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:So my street triple burned through most of its oil in ~4000 miles. My dad thinks this indicates a major problem with the motor. Is it? If it's any consolation, my 1986 Suzuki GSX drank 4 liters of oil every 5000 km this summer. And I worked at a VW dealer once, the warranty limit for oil consumption on a new car was 1 liter per 1000 km. So it might not be something disastrous. But if there's a sudden change in consumption or it's very different from similar models, it certainly could be something wrong. It could just as easily be a seal to the outside leaking as piston rings or valve guides. How does the area around the shifter or sprocket axle look?
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Nov 22, 2012 23:36
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Why did you let it go 4k miles without an oil change? Normal service intervals are at 6k. goddamnedtwisto posted:It's certainly not a *good* sign... is it visibly smoking? And when you say "though most of it's oil" do you mean the oil level is now at the bottom of the dipstick/sight glass or the oil pressure light is on and you can't see any oil anywhere? The oil level was so low I couldn't pick it up with the dipstick, though there was still some in there when my mechanic drained it. Still, very low. No oil pressure light came on however. Ola posted:If it's any consolation, my 1986 Suzuki GSX drank 4 liters of oil every 5000 km this summer. And I worked at a VW dealer once, the warranty limit for oil consumption on a new car was 1 liter per 1000 km. Looks fine. Bone dry. I should take it in, as it is under warranty still...probably will wait until christmas break though.
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Nov 23, 2012 00:44
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Why did you let it go 4k miles without an oil change? Not who you asked the question of, but in my case it's because I've not fallen for a 50-year-old marketing campaign from the oil companies. Manual says replace the oil every year or 12k miles, that's what I do.
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Nov 23, 2012 00:50
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I dunno. My oil looks like poo poo after 4k miles and I couldn't imagine going 12k without a change. That's like the valve adjustment interval.
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Nov 23, 2012 01:05
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:So my street triple burned through most of its oil in ~4000 miles. My dad thinks this indicates a major problem with the motor. Is it? Definitely something wrong there, I'd take it to the dealer.
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Nov 23, 2012 01:19
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Ola posted:If it's any consolation, my 1986 Suzuki GSX drank 4 liters of oil every 5000 km this summer. And I worked at a VW dealer once, the warranty limit for oil consumption on a new car was 1 liter per 1000 km. Air-cooled motors (GSX) and turbos burn more oil by design than regular NA water-cooled engines. The VW 2.0t can be a burny sludgy mess and shouldn't be considered normal consumption-wise. If you're not commuting / riding the piss out of your bike a larg-mileage service interval just means when you change it seasonally you're well short of the interval (change your oil at least once a year, take it from a sludgy VW owner)
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Nov 23, 2012 01:59
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Not who you asked the question of, but in my case it's because I've not fallen for a 50-year-old marketing campaign from the oil companies. Manual says replace the oil every year or 12k miles, that's what I do. Yeah I dont believe the oil company marketing either. I find that most oil just wont make it to 4K miles, at least not in the bikes I own. My DRZ trans starts getting notchy at like 2K.
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Nov 23, 2012 02:10
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I go by manufacturer recommendations usually but I think my Fz6 actually cleans oil. Did 3-4 thousand miles this year in dusty conditions and its still golden.
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Nov 23, 2012 02:33
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I've never heard of this before, apparently it's an american thing to change your oil more often than you need to. there's even a wikipedia article on it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3,000_mile_myth
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Nov 23, 2012 02:53
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How much oil did it really burn? Most companies say anything up to a liter every 1k miles is normal, but Id say thats excessive. Some of the 675 engines have been known to burn some oil, depends on the bike. If it burned a liter or so in 4k miles and had a lot of high rpm use, I could see that as being ok, if it burned too much more than that I'd be concerned. Z3n fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Nov 23, 2012 |
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Nov 23, 2012 04:29
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Oil capacity is 3.5 Litres, i guess that puts it at burning 875Ml per 1000 Miles. My Daytona's oil level barely ever drops, I've seen people say it is partially dependent on how you run the engine in. I don't know how much of a difference it makes or even how mine was run in since I bought it second hand. Covert Ops Wizard: Was that the oil that came with the bike when new? or have you replaced the oil? If you've replaced the oil yourself, you used full synth oil matching the JASO specs listed in the owners manual yeah? theperminator fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Nov 23, 2012 |
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Nov 23, 2012 06:55
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The manual for the KTM 690 LC4 puts the oil change interval at 3000mi. The 1.7 litres (yes really) of 10W60 unicorn blood in the sump will be black and thin by 1500-2000mi. I usually change oil and filters at 1500mi, and if I didn't top it off I'll be lucky to pull over a litre out.
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Nov 23, 2012 09:19
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Welp apparently all this time Italian bikes have been spoiling me - I change the oil once a year, and while it's certainly obviously used it's still brown rather than black and the oil level has basically gone from the top to the bottom of the sight glass. And my bikes don't get treated well (lots of short journeys and urban riding). Mind you with it taking 3.2l of £10/l fully-synth a time, plus an oil filter and crush washer hand-carved from unobtainium, that's probably for the best.
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Nov 23, 2012 21:12
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I just checked; 6000km (4000mi) service interval. The first line was 1000km/600mi; I have to assume that's break-in, and not that I should be changing the oil every three days. That reminds me. I need to do an oil change.
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Nov 24, 2012 20:30
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You're supposed to check oil, air pressure, lube chain, etc. roughly every 600 miles.
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Nov 24, 2012 23:37
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So I'm taking some of your guys advice and checking out a SV 650. Unfortunately there aren't a lot around here (DC Metro); the one I did find seems like it's in good condition, but has 20K miles on it. Anything I should be sure to check on when I go see it in person? Here's the posting (with pics and video) for reference. e: Looks like it's from a dealer; those Triumph's look interesting but the they have both been in crashes. McLarenF1 fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Nov 25, 2012 |
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Nov 24, 2012 23:55
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McLarenF1 posted:So I'm taking some of your guys advice and checking out a SV 650. Unfortunately there aren't a lot around here (DC Metro); the one I did find seems like it's in good condition, but has 20K miles on it. Anything I should be sure to check on when I go see it in person? Here's the posting (with pics and video) for reference. The SV650 looks pretty clean/good, although you'll want to ask if the valve clearance was checked recently. The interval on these bikes is at 15k, so if it wasn't done it's a bit overdue. My bike was well within spec @15k but it's good to check to be sure.
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Nov 25, 2012 00:30
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:Normal service intervals are at 6k. It might simply be the wrong dipstick/shop manual combination. http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=46002 So (newer) short dipstick + old shop manual = really low oil reading on the stick due to incorrect oil fill to start with. I know when I put the manual recommended 3.5L in my triple, it doesn't even read on the dipstick. Edit: Might not have even ever released a new shop manual, just the changed part and separate TSB. Mr. Eric Praline fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Nov 25, 2012 |
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Nov 25, 2012 02:44
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McLarenF1 posted:So I'm taking some of your guys advice and checking out a SV 650. Unfortunately there aren't a lot around here (DC Metro); the one I did find seems like it's in good condition, but has 20K miles on it. Anything I should be sure to check on when I go see it in person? Here's the posting (with pics and video) for reference.
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Nov 25, 2012 02:48
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I'm now settling in for winter and attending to my bikes in terms of necessary stuff. My naked Ninja 636 needs a better handlebar set up. I'm 6'5'' and I think the Renthal dirtbike handlebar on there is not wide and high enough. I'm clueless as to how I can ameliorate my situation, other than I know the top triple has been drilled through and I need a bar with a center bracket. The gauge cluster has been zip-tied on so it makes for a relatively easy switchover to something else. How do I figure out the riser sizes that I should be looking for? 
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Nov 25, 2012 02:59
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Easiest way is to go to a shop and figure out which of the handlebars feels best to you in a natural riding position (handlebars all have different tapers) and then try your best to translate that to your bike. You can remove the old risers and add your own, or get some aluminum blocks and longer bolts and put them underneath the risers to raise your current ones even more. The added benefit of figuring out a specific taper is even if the shop doesn't have handlebars that feel long enough, you can at least now shop online for something slightly larger that carries the angle you're comfortable with. It's still the Tall Dude Crapshoot, but it's the only way I know how. v  v
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Nov 25, 2012 09:09
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Hey, the walkin dude, you're slightly taller than me so might be a good person to ask - how does the 636 feel to you as a tall person? Is it comfortable enough to go for a long distance ride on or would you prefer another bike for that? (It's one of the bikes I'm looking at getting when I can upgrade in January)
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Nov 25, 2012 09:36
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the walkin dude posted:I'm now settling in for winter and attending to my bikes in terms of necessary stuff. My naked Ninja 636 needs a better handlebar set up. I'm 6'5'' and I think the Renthal dirtbike handlebar on there is not wide and high enough. I'm clueless as to how I can ameliorate my situation, other than I know the top triple has been drilled through and I need a bar with a center bracket. The gauge cluster has been zip-tied on so it makes for a relatively easy switchover to something else. How do I figure out the riser sizes that I should be looking for? Look for the number on your renthals to figure out what you have now. Should be right in the middle. Renthal have tables showing vertical rise, width and angle for the braced 3/8 bars. You probably want more rise and sweep the just rotate rearwards to suit the sportsbike riding position. If you really need more, get riser blocks off ebay. They should come with the longer bolts needed. These basically extend the riser upwards so the bars clamps higher and closer to you. E: I suspect you may want to keep the same sweep but as you are tall use a 1" riser block. If you don't mind spending the 30 bucks, get a 3/8 bar with more rise but same angles as well. Saga fucked around with this message at 10:08 on Nov 25, 2012 |
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Nov 25, 2012 10:01
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