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Damnit. Too many distractions here. Rather than do another edit I'll say there were two MB contenders. a '65 I think it was, and a mid '70s one that was used as a limousine for weddings / functions. I miss driving them. Most comfortable cars ever. e: here's one of the possible contenders http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mercedes-Benz-W108-280S-Mercedes-/140884579627?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item20cd60152b&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_1415 So tempted but I should probably wait to see how much my remaining unneeded belongings fetch on eBay. General_Failure fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Nov 21, 2012 |
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Nov 21, 2012 21:44
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Lightbulb Out posted:I have those with the motor mounts, and its definitely louder and much more vibration. Hard to tell if thats from the trans only, or both. Is this your DD? I would find it problematic in a DD. Dual purpose. I also have the loud-rear end Hawk HP+ pads so a little bit more probably won't hurt.
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Nov 21, 2012 23:36
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Installed black tail lights on my Evo. Much nicer than the chrome ones. I've also decided to powdercoat my other Enkei rims black after seeing this picture: 
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Nov 22, 2012 00:36
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I like it. How good is the paint, ten footer? As you'd expect for old paint, it varies depending upon what part of the car you are looking at. The worst of it is the driver's side at the rear end of the quarter panel. There is an area there where the paint has a bit of spider-webbing. It looks like it could be polished out. It's not visible from 3+ feet by my eyes. There are also a few shallow dents and half a dozen paint chips scattered about.
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Nov 22, 2012 01:32
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Did some soldering for the second time in my life.   I recently got a set of euro ellpisoids for my e36, but of course they are wired differently. I bought a set of "Plug and play" adapters off ebay but they just came with push on fittings (left in the first picture), whereas the euro connector (right) screws in. Figured out the wiring and spliced the PNP adaptor into the euro connector. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Nov 22, 2012 |
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Nov 22, 2012 03:22
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trouser chili posted:As you'd expect for old paint, it varies depending upon what part of the car you are looking at. The worst of it is the driver's side at the rear end of the quarter panel. There is an area there where the paint has a bit of spider-webbing. It looks like it could be polished out. It's not visible from 3+ feet by my eyes. There are also a few shallow dents and half a dozen paint chips scattered about. That sounds pretty good for such an old car. It's a gorgeous colour and it'd be a shame for the paint to be damaged.
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Nov 22, 2012 03:32
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Crustashio is that final picture of high beams or are you intentionally trying to blind other drivers?
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Nov 22, 2012 04:21
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Bought my subbie an early christmas present
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Nov 22, 2012 05:28
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dreesemonkey posted:Your dedication to your altima is second to none. I'd recommend getting a BMW or something as your next car since you don't mind tinkering and maintenance. But but but I like my water pumps lasting more than 50k  Also the dedication is only because I can't afford to replace the drat thing.  Anything with working a/c and a 5 speed goes for quite a bit more than what I could sell it for..
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Nov 22, 2012 05:49
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trouser chili posted:Ok, insurance-purposes cell-phone teaser shot below. I hope to take some glamor shots later. This is a stupid question probably because I'm just trying to figure out some things about trouser chili's new ride. Is it like this one or different? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MERCEDES...1#ht_671wt_1401 Pic ripped from the ad and hosted on imgur.  For what it's worth, if it is similar the red looks a hell of a lot better.
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Nov 22, 2012 22:12
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General_Failure posted:This is a stupid question probably because I'm just trying to figure out some things about trouser chili's new ride. Is it like this one or different? They're both W114.
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Nov 22, 2012 22:43
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Geirskogul posted:Crustashio is that final picture of high beams or are you intentionally trying to blind other drivers? If you look in the bottom right you can see the headlight sitting on the engine. That was just a test to confirm my wiring.
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Nov 22, 2012 23:24
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Got the winters put on. I even put on the hubcaps for the ultimate old man look.
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Nov 22, 2012 23:58
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General_Failure posted:This is a stupid question probably because I'm just trying to figure out some things about trouser chili's new ride. Is it like this one or different? They're similar in that they are both w114 chassis coupes. The 280ce will have a dohc head instead of a sohc. I believe all 280ce were also automatic transmission. The 250c was the basic coupe, the 280c was the uprated coupe. Furthermore, the "e" designates the engine is einspritzen, or fuel-injected. Basically if you wanted a W114 Mercedes coupe, you bought a 250c, 250ce, 280c or 280ce. This knowledge is all based on US market though, Australia may be different.
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Nov 23, 2012 00:54
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trouser chili posted:They're similar in that they are both w114 chassis coupes. The 280ce will have a dohc head instead of a sohc. I believe all 280ce were also automatic transmission. The 250c was the basic coupe, the 280c was the uprated coupe. Furthermore, the "e" designates the engine is einspritzen, or fuel-injected. Basically if you wanted a W114 Mercedes coupe, you bought a 250c, 250ce, 280c or 280ce. This knowledge is all based on US market though, Australia may be different. Very interesting. I've never quite grasped the model number designations for MBs. I figured it was different to yours, especially because you said yours was a rarity but besides the sunroof I couldn't tell why. I wouldn't buy something like that anyway. Not the best family car. I found a cheap err... something SEL yesterday but damned if I can find it again. Vehicles designated a limousine are really just ones that rear passengers can have legs. I like LWB cars but how easy they are to high center kind of sucks. An MB is a fallback car if I can't either find a cheap 4x4 or get the VW registered in the near future.
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Nov 23, 2012 01:29
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General_Failure posted:Very interesting. I've never quite grasped the model number designations for MBs. I figured it was different to yours, especially because you said yours was a rarity but besides the sunroof I couldn't tell why. Yeah, it's taken me a while to figure out their naming scheme as well, and admittedly I still get lost. It's best to first understand the chassis numbers, stuff like w114, w123 and the like. Then you can understand the specific models under the chassis. My 240d is a w123, my 250c is a w114. However they both lay in the lineage of what is now called the "E-classe". That's because the w123 chassis replaced the w114. Anything with a "s" in the name is going to be a bigger chassis, something like a w108, w116 or w126, unless it has an "sl" in the name, then it's on a compact sporty chassis. Don't confuse this with "sel" though, as that indicates the larger chassis car extended ever longer.
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Nov 23, 2012 02:11
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Yeah, and the 3 letters on the back are basically displacement, so a 280E has a 2.8L Fuel injected motor whereas a 240D has a 2.4L Diesel and so on and so forth
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Nov 23, 2012 02:30
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Bobby_Wokkerfella posted:Yeah, and the 3 letters on the back are basically displacement, so a 280E has a 2.8L Fuel injected motor whereas a 240D has a 2.4L Diesel and so on and so forth The numbers do mean the displacement, except when it doesn't. My 250c has a 2.8 liter, just like all 250c in the united states. There was also cars like the 450sel, which could have a 6.9 liter v8. Another example is the w114 chassis 240d that could come with the 3.0 liter diesel.
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Nov 23, 2012 02:44
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Threw a new non-dented, non-bent transmission crossmember on it before driving up to the parents place for Thanksgiving. It's amazing how nice and quiet it is without the transmission rubbing on the underside of the trans tunnel.
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Nov 23, 2012 04:31
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On the MB stuff, Trouser Chili I'd better see you replacing those horrible U.S. headlights with the proper ones shortly. Laws permitting of course.
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Nov 23, 2012 22:26
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General_Failure posted:On the MB stuff, Trouser Chili I'd better see you replacing those horrible U.S. headlights with the proper ones shortly. Laws permitting of course. I don't think there's really that huge an aesthetic difference between the US and Euro headlamps on the w114/5. Certainly not as much as in a w123. I may just replace the 7-inch round sealed beams with LED units. What I think it really needs right now is yellow fog lights.
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Nov 24, 2012 00:17
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trouser chili posted:I don't think there's really that huge an aesthetic difference between the US and Euro headlamps on the w114/5. Certainly not as much as in a w123. I may just replace the 7-inch round sealed beams with LED units. What I think it really needs right now is yellow fog lights. I saw the other pictures in the other thread and kind of recoiled when I saw the headlights. From the side it looked like then normal units. Wasn't expecting some weird bezel with a round headlight and an indicator on it.
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Nov 24, 2012 01:53
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I bought some winter wheels/tires for my car last year before winter. They needed balanced, and the wheels were a hideous green color (car is a silver 99 honda civic beater), but I don't give a poo poo so I didn't bother. Today I decided to go and get them balanced finally after taking a 5 hour drive with the steering wheel making my hands go numb. My dad was with me and knew the guys in the shop and jokingly told them to paint the terrible green wheels. I came back and $27 later I had black wheels that don't shake. Obviously just spray bombed but I thought they were just kidding. Much improved.
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Nov 24, 2012 02:08
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Today, I attempted to blow up my battery. I mixed up the + and - while boosting it. Blew the main fuse and the 'room' fuse. Thank loving God that's all that happened.
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Nov 24, 2012 02:19
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Not my ride, but today I replaced the driver's wheel bearing hub on a 06 toyota tacoma 4wd. Didnt know tearing it down that it was a press-in then bolt in style hub, so i had to remove the whole knuckle assembly. The boys at NAPA did the pressing, and even sandblasted the studs and other threaded places for a smooth re-assembly. Not so smooth was the wheel speed sensor breaking off inside it's hole. had i known they were almost $200 i wouldve taken a little longer 
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Nov 24, 2012 02:50
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Ziploc posted:Today, I attempted to blow up my battery. I mixed up the + and - while boosting it. Recently for the first time I wasn't paying attention and connected one jumper lead across both terminals. Really fun. Had to undo the burning hot clamp from the battery by hand. The battery smoked for a few minutes and the jumper lead was hot for a fair while. My good leads 
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Nov 24, 2012 03:32
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General_Failure posted:Recently for the first time I wasn't paying attention and connected one jumper lead across both terminals. Really fun. Had to undo the burning hot clamp from the battery by hand. The battery smoked for a few minutes and the jumper lead was hot for a fair while. My good leads Hooo boy I get myself in trouble all the time because I like to use the battery as a shelf to place tools I'm no longer using. It's kinda funny at least when you weld a screwdriver to a ratchet handle because they contacted each other while in contact with opposite terminals.
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Nov 24, 2012 04:21
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Many People posted:Fun with batteries!  I'm getting afraid to open the bonnet on my car. I'm thinking I might start completely removing the battery when I'm working under there, rather than simply disconnecting it - the top of the battery is one of the few flat surfaces around, I know I've put things on it absentmindely.
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Nov 24, 2012 04:38
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This helps. Tools stick to it pretty well  Welding tools together twice was enough for me..
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Nov 24, 2012 05:16
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I put the last remaining things I could find that may be worth something in the back of it, to take photos of and try to sell. Also stared into the back of it (The VW camper) with the blinds drawn and thought "that is an awesome vehicle. Wish I had a fridge for it."
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Nov 24, 2012 05:46
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trouser chili posted:Hooo boy I get myself in trouble all the time because I like to use the battery as a shelf to place tools I'm no longer using. It's kinda funny at least when you weld a screwdriver to a ratchet handle because they contacted each other while in contact with opposite terminals. The only good reason to have side-post terminals. That and corrosion. I still hate the drat things, though.
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Nov 24, 2012 17:07
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ExecuDork posted:
Could always get one or two of those plastic shipping caps that come on a new battery and keep them around for when you're doing car work. D/c battery, put plastic cap on one terminal, done. Any shop that works with batteries would probably give you a handful of them if you asked.
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Nov 24, 2012 18:39
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Is there a good place to find new prefab positive battery cables that aren't OEM? I mean sure, I could call Honda but I can't imagine what they'd get for one. Too much, I'm sure.
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Nov 24, 2012 18:53
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Detroit Q. Spider posted:Is there a good place to find new prefab positive battery cables that aren't OEM? I mean sure, I could call Honda but I can't imagine what they'd get for one. Too much, I'm sure. You can get capped quick release battery terminal end caps almost everywhere car parts are sold. Something like this is what I use:  They provide pretty good connection, but sucks for welding tools together at the terminals. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Nov 24, 2012 |
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Nov 24, 2012 19:34
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Sir Cornelius posted:You can get capped quick release battery terminal end caps almost everywhere car parts are sold. Something like this is what I use: Whoa, ballsy. I'll look into those but I still need a new cable since I'm pretty sure the moisture has wicked into the cable but I guess I'll look first. Do the screws hold the wire pretty securely? I'm a little suspicious of non-crimped connections.
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Nov 24, 2012 19:43
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Replaced the front struts in the Deville. Holy poo poo the Monroe Quick Struts kick rear end! http://www.amazon.com/Monroe-171685...adillac+deville Under $110 per side and, having everything all pre-assembled made it a breeze, I did both sides in under an hour. Question: it's horribly out of alignment now, serious positive camber, which is no big deal, I've got an appointment for an alignment tomorrow. However -- I'm getting a clicking from the right front, probably the axle. Could this be just from the out-of-whack alignment? I'm hoping so.
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Nov 24, 2012 20:03
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:Holy poo poo the Monroe Quick Struts kick rear end! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kpi5UXuoCzQ they certainly do something to rear end
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Nov 24, 2012 20:34
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Detroit Q. Spider posted:Do the screws hold the wire pretty securely? I'm a little suspicious of non-crimped connections. In my experience they're way more secure than most crimps. If you can cut back your original cables an inch or so, they're probably fine. Hit everything with a spray of WD40 or similar penetrating oil before you assemble.
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Nov 25, 2012 11:51
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I've seen cheap screw clamp style terminals cause some pretty bad problems, make sure you keep them clean. A well done crimp beats anything else every day, but a poorly done crimp is the worst thing ever, that's for sure.
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Nov 25, 2012 21:11
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kastein posted:A well done crimp beats anything else every day, but a poorly done crimp is the worst thing ever, that's for sure. It's easier to inspect a screw terminal, and very few people knows how to crimp correctly. A lovely aligned terminal will turn black in a matter of days and so will a crimp. The problem with a crimp is that I'll have a hard time finding it. I rest my case, but still demand that capped quick release battery terminal end caps must be obligatory by law.
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Nov 25, 2012 21:37
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