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Oh god, pulling that plastic looks painful. Looks like the rest of the door is pretty easily fixable though. Although getting the window channel lined up when welding it may be a pain. Can't wait to see more. Btw, can you get a picture of the door hinges? I would like to see that.
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Nov 18, 2012 07:23
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So what's the fix for the skin? Sonic weld? Chemical weld? Replacement skin swap for your firstborn?
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Nov 18, 2012 09:57
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Poisonlizard posted:Btw, can you get a picture of the door hinges? I would like to see that. Sure, I'll get some pics tomorrow. Cakefool posted:So what's the fix for the skin? Sonic weld? Chemical weld? Replacement skin swap for your firstborn? Well, I don't really know if there is a proper fix. Everyone either buys a used door skin ($$$), buys a NOS acrylic skin ($$$$), or buys a fiberglass skin that needs to be painted to match ($$). I'd actually love to be able to salvage the skin, there just isn't any precedent for a repair like that. As far as I know, once an acrylic panel is cracked, it's done for. But you'd think there could be a way to fix it since it's just plastic. I just don't know enough about it. If only I had thousands of dollars lying around I'd make all the panels out of carbon fiber just to say I owned a carbon fiber Bricklin of all things.
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Nov 18, 2012 11:40
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BoostCreep posted:Sure, I'll get some pics tomorrow. is it acrylic or polycarbonate? If it's acrylic, it should be pretty easy to repair with some cement. Actually, polycarbonate repair is probably more or less the same process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2MFvepyVlw guys use this to make acrylic aquariums holding hundreds of gallons of water, should be strong enough for a door skin crack.
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Nov 18, 2012 12:19
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BoostCreep posted:Well, I don't really know if there is a proper fix. Everyone either buys a used door skin ($$$), buys a NOS acrylic skin ($$$$), or buys a fiberglass skin that needs to be painted to match ($$). I'd actually love to be able to salvage the skin, there just isn't any precedent for a repair like that. As far as I know, once an acrylic panel is cracked, it's done for. But you'd think there could be a way to fix it since it's just plastic. I just don't know enough about it. Repair it from the back with a patch of woven fiber glass cloth and resin. Then repair the crack from the front with a tiny amount of resin and paint the fucker. ($ not much)
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Nov 18, 2012 13:50
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Linedance posted:is it acrylic or polycarbonate? If it's acrylic, it should be pretty easy to repair with some cement. Actually, polycarbonate repair is probably more or less the same process. I've used that applicator and similar cement (seems to be the same stuff), and it was incredibly strong, easily stronger than the surrounding plastic. It is completely inflexible, so on a flexible doorskin, it would have concentrated forces on it.
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Nov 18, 2012 17:41
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I am a loving Google guru. http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/lidrepair_e.html Chloroform. I have no idea how hard or easy it is to get some but it's got to be with a shot right?
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Nov 18, 2012 23:14
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DJ Commie posted:I've used that applicator and similar cement (seems to be the same stuff), and it was incredibly strong, easily stronger than the surrounding plastic. It is completely inflexible, so on a flexible doorskin, it would have concentrated forces on it. The easy way to weld it would be to look in your rape-kit for chloroform (CHCl3). It works wonders on plexi-glass too. Problem is, that most people don't have easy access to a rape-kit and/or chloroform. The only reliable way to fix poo poo like that is to reinforce it from from the back with resin and a patch of woven fiber glass cloth. Trust me on this. I've personally crushed and repaired more motorcycle clothes than most people will ever wear. I promise to start a thread about it next time I have a problem. Probably won't take long, since most of my motorcycle friends are even stupider than I ever were. Edit: gently caress, beaten! drat you, Cakefool! Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Nov 18, 2012 |
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Nov 18, 2012 23:28
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Sir Cornelius posted:The easy way to weld it would be to look in your rape-kit for chloroform (CHCl3). It works wonders on plexi-glass too. If the panel is acrylic, you might be able to find MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone), which will basically melt the stuff back together, and you could then also repair from the back with fiberglass.
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Nov 19, 2012 01:43
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Fair warning, MEK will also melt your kidneys. Scary poo poo.
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Nov 19, 2012 07:10
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Don't drink it or submerged your hands in it, other than that it's just modeling cement (the runny kind) don't be afraid of it. Also, a poo poo lot easier to find.
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Nov 19, 2012 14:05
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POR-15 ordered. I got a gallon of Metal Ready, a gallon of Marine Clean, and two quarts of the black stuff. That should be enough to coat both doors (inside and outside), the entire front section of the frame, engine cradle, suspension parts, and whatever I can reach under the body without actually separating the fiberglass chassis from the frame. I'm planning on removing the fenders and stripping as much of the wiring harness and stuff out of the engine bay that I can. I don't know how destructive the metal ready acid is and I don't want to have to replace irreplaceable wires and hoses. I'm also now looking at getting the 4.8 engine rather than the 5.3. The 4.8 has a shorter stroke which improves the rod angle allowing for higher rpm. With an LS6 valvespring and cam upgrade and ARP rod bolts, people have spun the 4.8 to 8,000rpm. Peak power generally seems to be at 6800-7000rpm, so I don't think I'll need to go higher than 7k. I just need to make sure I get a turbo that can keep full boost that high. Also I'm finding 4.8L engines for $650 with ECU and harness as opposed to the $1,300 for the 5.3L. No-brainer. Hopefully Friday I can snag a good Black Friday deal at the local dismantler.
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Nov 21, 2012 20:41
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Re: Fuel cells. I spent a good amount of time looking at them today for a variety of Opel related reasons. What you're looking for is called a remote fill fuel cell: http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/jaz-products-remote-fill-fuel-cells You should be able to simply buy some hose and fittings to clamp it onto the original filler neck and vent system.
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Nov 22, 2012 04:12
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Summit's fuel cells can be converted to the remote-fill type. They sell a replacement filler neck that bolts in in place of the standard filler cap (which itself is bolted in place). From there, you can use a hose from the filler neck behind the license plate down to the fuel cell.
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Nov 22, 2012 04:54
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I'm pretty excited about this car. I hate to see rare cars hacked up, so it's refreshing to see a clean build with a return-to-stock plan.BoostCreep posted:There is a GTO T56 near me on car-part.com for $1650, which seems to be the cheapest one I can find. The next cheapest is $2,500 for an F-body trans. Apparently all I need to do is buy a shifter cup and shifter for an F-body to shorten the shifter location by a couple inches compared to the GTO location. Now if only I had some visual aids to help you understand... I'd snag that GTO T56. Those are supposed to be one of the strongest in stock form. Some GTO guys will even swap their wrecked tranmissions for F-body ones due to price, so bonus if the GTO one is cheaper. That F-body deal sounds like a crap deal. That is running into good rebuilt unit money.
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Nov 22, 2012 17:35
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So, how horrified does seeing the Chop Cut Rebuild guys go at the body panels with air chisels make you?  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NosbiOsjO4&playnext=1&list=PLCBE5351BEE5072AE&feature=results_main Edit: the final result for those curious: http://www.autoblog.com/2007/10/31/sema-sideshow-bricklin-sv1-show-car/ http://www.hubgarage.com/mygarage/challywood/vehicles/21733  I dig the Javelin-esque front end treatment. Mike_P fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Nov 23, 2012 |
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Nov 23, 2012 00:14
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Mike_P posted:So, how horrified does seeing the Chop Cut Rebuild guys go at the body panels with air chisels make you? You know, that doesn't look bad or anything, but something about it screams "Fiero conversion" to me.
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Nov 23, 2012 03:06
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Mike_P posted:So, how horrified does seeing the Chop Cut Rebuild guys go at the body panels with air chisels make you? Yeah it's pretty awful. That VIN has been written off in the Bricklin community as if the car was crushed or wrecked. It's basically an ex-VIN. I'm going to do some driving around tomorrow and see what kind of deals I can find. Hopefully I have an engine by the end of the day. That GTO tranny is 15 miles away too. We'll see what happens.
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Nov 23, 2012 05:05
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Busy day today. I went to a pretty sketchy part of the valley north of LA to this place: And got this:       Turns out the $650 with ECU price is for exchange only, so I ended up paying $1,100 for a 4.8L engine with 48,000 miles on it out of a 2004 Silverado, along with all accessories minus the A/C compressor. The 04+ engines all come with DBW, so I got him to switch the intake manifold, throttle body, ECU, and wiring harness off an '01 engine so I can use my factory gas pedal and cable. Cable throttle body:  Also got him to throw in a MAF, though I most likely won't be using it.  Funny thing is he wrote 5.3L on the receipt and "warranty card", both of which are the same thing, being scribbled on the back of the company business card. So I guess I won't know if I have a 4.8 or 5.3 until I get the heads off to check the pistons. So now I need to do some test fitting and see if this fits as is. I'll most likely end up needing the F-body oil pan and intake manifold to be able to close the hood without ripping the pan off on the first drive.
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Nov 24, 2012 02:25
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Mike_P posted:
That actually looks way better than it should.
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Nov 24, 2012 02:38
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I'll have to dig in my inbox and find the parts I ordered for the clutch master, lines, and remoter bleeder setup. It was actually pretty cheap for the universal stuff. Also you can look at the numbers on the crank to see if you have a 4.8 or 5.3 if you don't want to mess with the heads right away.
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Nov 24, 2012 07:26
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Yeah, and the headbolts are torque-to-yield one time use on these engines. Don't pull the heads if you don't have to. If you had a 6.0L I'd offer to trade you intake manifolds + whatever other parts needed since they flow better than the LS1 manifold I have, but it looks like the 4.8/5.3 intake is about on par with the LS1.
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Nov 24, 2012 07:51
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, and the headbolts are torque-to-yield one time use on these engines. Don't pull the heads if you don't have to. The truck intakes still have more lowend, if you want you can have mine.
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Nov 24, 2012 12:33
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, and the headbolts are torque-to-yield one time use on these engines. Don't pull the heads if you don't have to. I need to pull the heads off to remove the pistons anyway. I have to gap the top piston rings so they don't expand and buckle under boost. Plus MLS headgaskets and ARP head studs are a must if you turbo this engine. As for the intake manifold, the 4.8/5.3 truck one makes better power down low. I wouldnt mind using it but I need to switch to the LS1 manifold just to fit the engine into the car so I have to buy or trade for one anyway.
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Nov 24, 2012 18:57
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I'm getting nowhere finding T-56 transmissions. I've been looking on and off for 4 months and there's just nothing out there within 1,000 miles from me that isn't astronomically priced. The transmissions on car-part.com are all exchange prices, and they are listed at $2,500 for F bodies. For an EXCHANGE, which means it'll cost MORE than that if I don't have a core for them. I don't quite understand this whole exchange policy since they are selling USED transmissions, not rebuilt ones, but are still asking for a core. There is one place that has a GTO transmission for $1,700 on exchange, so probably $2,200 or so for me. But I'll also need to buy a little conversion kit to swap the shifter locations and buy a shifter which will add to the cost. Then of course there's the price of the clutch and flywheel, etc. There are these Magnum T56 transmissions that are $3,000 plus shipping, but I really can't justify spending 3/4 the value of the car on a transmission. I do see some 5 speed truck transmissions in the $800 range, but I don't know anything about those or whether they can handle the torque I'll be putting down. At this point, that $650 automatic transmission is starting to look really good. I might just have to get an auto transmission and go with that for now. I assume when I decide to make the change to a manual transmission that I'll need to get another new driveshaft fabbed and possibly new motor mounts depending on where the auto tranny lines up with everything which isn't fun, but at least auto transmissions are practically falling out of the sky and are cheap. Other options: http://www.maddogtransmissions.com/ These guys make modified rebuilt auto transmissions for pretty cheap. Why aren't there companies like this for the 6 speed transmissions? Or are there and I just don't know? Converting an LT1 T56 for use with an LS1. There is a transmission shop local to me that is selling what appears to be all the parts needed to convert an LT1 T56 to an LS1 T56 for $235. It looks like this:  Does that seem legit? I have seen LT1 T56 transmissions selling for half the price of their younger LS1 siblings, so this might be a relatively cheaper alternative to getting the 6 speed. Is this a terrible idea? Things have been slow otherwise with the project. After a super lovely end to a 4 year relationship last summer, I'm seeing a new girl who's taking up a lot of my time. Totally not complaining, but that is leaving me with basically just my Saturdays to do car work. Last weekend I was planning on getting started on the engine tear down when my idiot brother sliced his hand down to the bone and I spent my one day off at the hospital dealing with that. The good thing though is it gave me some time to think... I was planning on tearing the engine down to get it ready for boost right away. This means basically a partial rebuild and refreshening. I'd have to remove all the pistons to widen the gap on the top piston ring and would do new rod bolts, head studs, intake valves, springs, (basically entire head rebuilds), along with probably some port work, new cam, etc. I started adding up all the parts and this will be expensive. I wanted to do this right away since the engine's out of the car and easily accessible, but there are some cons. - It will be really expensive and means I probably won't have the car running for quite a bit longer. - The warranty on the engine will be shot since I've completely stripped it apart and changed the internal bits before I even start it up. - It will be adding a lot of complexity to an already really busy build, and maybe tackling things a bit slower instead of all at once will make for faster progress. - There are other huge issues to deal with on this car that need attention and money (those goddamn doors), and reducing a bit of the money out the window up front will let me work on getting the rest of the car assembled faster. So I'm thinking this is the new overly simplified plan: Part 1a. - Figure out what transmission I'm going with and buy it. - Get the engine and transmission in the car. (multi-step process) - Fabricate an exhaust. - Figure out the fuel system. - Start the car. Step 1b. - Get the doors operational. Step 2. - Make all of the above actually work. Step 3. - Drive the car. Step 4. - Turbo. I think breaking it down like this will let me actually see progress on the build rather than trying to do everything at once, which right now looks like an insurmountable pile of money and "to do" lists.
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Dec 6, 2012 03:40
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Have you made some calls to auction houses that deal in crashed vehicles? Might be worth it to cruise some F-body forums and keep an eye for a crashed vehicle. You could also post a "wanted" ad and see where that takes you. If you could find a $2500 running donor with poo poo body work, you could have all your wiring, drivetrain, and AC bits all in one shot. No buying things twice like a transmission. You could even utilize the factory mounts from the donor engine by hacking up the original chassis brackets from the donor car. Think of the big picture costs. A running donor might be possible since you're waiting and watching anyways.
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Dec 6, 2012 04:20
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http://www.tickperformance.com/ These guys seem to be the go-to for built 6-speeds. I've never dealt with them personally but most likely will when mine give up the ghost.
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Dec 6, 2012 04:32
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Sockington posted:Have you made some calls to auction houses that deal in crashed vehicles? I would love nothing more than to find a wrecked donor F-body, but in California it works a bit differently when it comes to wrecked cars. When cars get wrecked, insurance companies offer big money and then sell them to auto dismantlers. The dismantlers then strip the expensive or useful bits before dumping them in their attached junkyards to let the less useful stuff get picked. They then offer the parts they pulled at a premium to people like me. So when insurance companies offer such big money for wrecked cars, the people that keep them to part out expect big money in return which is why it happens so rarely. For example, my totaled '01 Jeep Cherokee cost me $5,500 in 2010 and two years later I got a check for $7,500 from insurance. It's crazy. I was going to part it out on my own, but how can I turn down that kind of money? I'm seeing running LT1 F-body parts cars in the $3,000-$4,000 range. I haven't seen a single LS1 F-body for sale as a parts car and I've been looking since August. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong areas. The newest cars you can find in junkyards here are late 90's if you're lucky, and those have already been picked clean. I've never seen a 98+ F-body in a junkyard here in the 7 years I've been going. Running LS1 powered Camaros and Firebirds won't dip below $7k regardless of exterior shape. Also in Cali you have to have a license to even speak to a person at an auction house. They are running quite a racket in the old Republic.
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Dec 6, 2012 05:15
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:http://www.tickperformance.com/ These guys have a great selection of factory Tremec parts, which is awesome. I'm not seeing any transmissions for sale though, just parts and rebuild services. Am I missing something?
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Dec 6, 2012 05:28
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There's auto shipping services that various members have used here. You could get an out-of-state car delivered for the donor if the price is reasonable (shipping being $500-$1000+ roughly depending on distance). Just a thought for you.
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Dec 6, 2012 05:38
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BoostCreep posted:I would love nothing more than to find a wrecked donor F-body, but in California it works a bit differently when it comes to wrecked cars. When cars get wrecked, insurance companies offer big money and then sell them to auto dismantlers. The dismantlers then strip the expensive or useful bits before dumping them in their attached junkyards to let the less useful stuff get picked. They then offer the parts they pulled at a premium to people like me. Craigslist posted:Asking for $2000 or best offer it has 8 cylinder Ls1 motor in it with a high dollar pipe system the problem is im not sure but I believe an arm is damaged in the motor but its still very responsive and the Transmission needs a new torque converter which could be the knock im not shore at all depending on abilities it can be an easy or hard job Salvage title nor does it have air bags they were deployed before I purchased the vehicle, It has a metallic navy custom paint job with black racing stripes the bodies is almost untouched with 1 minor crack on the front wheel whale. Needs a new Driver side window it has T-tops with sun covers & blows great Ac/ Heat 145xxx miles on it txt or call (316)670-3237 serious buyers only. ITS A MUST SEE. Here's a '98 Z28 for $2k. Spend $700 to have it shipped, rebuild the motor (you were going to do that anyway, right?) and part out the rest? e: fb
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Dec 6, 2012 05:45
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Black88GTA posted:Here's a '98 Z28 for $2k. Spend $700 to have it shipped, rebuild the motor (you were going to do that anyway, right?) and part out the rest? I'll definitely look into buying a car from out of state. Thanks to you and Sock for the advice. That one in particular is auto though, and I only need the car for the 6 speed manual tranny. I already have my engine. 
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Dec 6, 2012 05:48
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BoostCreep posted:I'll definitely look into buying a car from out of state. Thanks to you and Sock for the advice. That one in particular is auto though, and I only need the car for the 6 speed manual tranny. I already have my engine. Ahh  I somehow missed that. Oh well, point stands - seems you guys kind of get screwed with used car pricing down there. If it's only mechanical bits you seek, maybe look at classifieds from northern states, where the mechanicals are more than likely still decent but the car has rusted out to the point of not being worth fixing so they're dumping it cheap.
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Dec 6, 2012 06:03
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BoostCreep posted:These guys have a great selection of factory Tremec parts, which is awesome. I'm not seeing any transmissions for sale though, just parts and rebuild services. Am I missing something? Add a core for $1000. Kinda steep, but 6-speeds are expensive as you've found out. You will still need a bellhousing and shifter. I'd think an F-body stock shifter or even a used B&M or Hurst would be dirt cheap.
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Dec 6, 2012 06:03
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BoostCreep posted:I'll definitely look into buying a car from out of state. I'll add you to my daily RSS queue to see if anything pops up. So far, I found an engine, by itself, for $4800. I live far too drat close to SFBA.
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Dec 6, 2012 06:12
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SoCal AI dude rowebot44 might still have a LT1+t56 from his junked 4th gen Fbody, I'm sure he'd make a deal if he wants to sell it.
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Dec 6, 2012 06:27
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I would say that your little 4.8 would do fine behind a T5 out of a Camaro (Which are dirt cheap) since that's what I'm planning for my third gen, but then you had to go and add the word "turbo" to your outline. 
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Dec 6, 2012 23:02
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:http://www.tickperformance.com/ It looks like the best bet is between Tick Performance and Texas Drivetrain Performance. Both do rebuilds of T56s across the board from Vipers to Camaros to Mustangs and GTOs. Quick breakdown from what I can tell so far between the two vendors: Tick Performance http://www.tickperformance.com/ Level 1 rebuild (basically stock) is $999 CORE charge: $1,000 Shipping is free. Rev lights and speed sensors and rev lockout and skip shift solenoids cost $190 extra. 1 year unlimited mile warranty So I'm looking at $2,190 shipped to my door, unless there are hidden costs or sales tax. Texas Drivetrain Performance http://www.texasdrivetrainperformance.com/ Basic rebuild with these upgrades: billet keys, steel 3-4 fork, and re-machined mainshaft is $1,900 (including CORE) Comes with all sensors and solenoids included. Shipping is $75-$100 according to the site. 1 year unlimited mile warranty So that is approximately $2,000 shipped. The nice thing about TDP however is they also own Diamond Clutch which makes this:  Which is rated at 600hp/torque. It has what looks to be everything I need to get the tranny working with my engine, and if you buy a transmission from them they will give you $75-$150 off their clutch kits. I'm emailing both vendors to see what the actual price points will end up being, but TDP looks to be the winner at the moment. Especially seeing as how USED transmissions are several hundred dollars more than these rebuilt models.
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Dec 7, 2012 06:12
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I may have overlooked a post explaining why it wouldn't work, but if you aren't set on a 6- speed, maybe a 5-speed steel cased Supra gearbox would be an option?
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Dec 7, 2012 08:10
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Be sure to add ~$200 for a bell housing to that cost as well, that won't be included I'm sure. FYI: a viper and Lt1 t56's have different bell housings/ front plate and input and outputs shafts. It will cost more in the long run to change one out to bolt up correctly with the ls motors. This whole headache is why I bout a brand new t56 magnum, less hassle and everything comes with it, bolts, harnesses, yolk, adjustable shifter, mount, etc. and I could pick the ratio for that sweet overdrive. Anyway here is the parts to make the clutch work from speedway motors. code:Holdbrooks fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Dec 7, 2012 |
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Dec 7, 2012 18:22
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