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I'm looking at putting new gears in and figured I'd stop in here and gather y'alls opinion. I've got the 4.0 and am running 32s. I'm thinking about running 4.11s but from what I gather, something like 3.73s offer better MPG. If my understanding is correct, I'll lose torque but boost MPG with lower gears and the inverse with higher gears. Am I correct? All I know is that I need to get rid of these 3.07s - I'm getting low teen MPG and a top speed of about 80 that requires quite a struggle.
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Nov 22, 2012 04:22
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I would go 4.10s or 4.56s, especially if you think you might go up in tire size again.
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Nov 22, 2012 04:43
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Yeah, do 4.10 or 4.56. You won't be satisfied for long if you go 3.73, especially once you realize how much more you can do or how much effort it takes out of precise crawling with a manual transmission with that huge crawl ratio improvement.
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Nov 22, 2012 05:33
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chem42 posted:I'm going to look at a '88 4x2 4 banger MJ tomorrow. Is there anything specific I need to look out for? I'll look for all the regular stuff, ball joints, leaks, rust etc but I'm new to Jeeps. Welp I bought a thing.  I paid $1300. I think I did OK.
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Nov 22, 2012 06:05
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chem42 posted:Welp I bought a thing. It looks like it still has rockers so it can't be that bad of a purchase.
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Nov 22, 2012 06:17
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You didn't do ok, you did awesome.
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Nov 22, 2012 06:25
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DixielandDelight posted:I'm looking at putting new gears in and figured I'd stop in here and gather y'alls opinion. I've got the 4.0 and am running 32s. I'm thinking about running 4.11s but from what I gather, something like 3.73s offer better MPG. If my understanding is correct, I'll lose torque but boost MPG with lower gears and the inverse with higher gears. Am I correct? All I know is that I need to get rid of these 3.07s - I'm getting low teen MPG and a top speed of about 80 that requires quite a struggle. I have 33" tires with 3.73 gearing and I get around 15mpg in town, 18 on long highway trips. I'm at around 2000rpm when I'm going 75mph on flats.
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Nov 22, 2012 17:30
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I'm somewhat anxious to see what 3.55s + a 4.0L cherokee drivetrain and 28s / 31s will get me as far as MPGs on my Wrangler.
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Nov 22, 2012 19:00
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I get around 16 in my XJ going back and forth to work which is mostly highway with a couple mountains to cross. I'm thinking about getting a 3.73 posi 8.8 because OD is a joke. I mainly have to roll around in D3
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Nov 22, 2012 20:44
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It looks like I'll be doing 4.56. Out of curiosity, is there an actual way to tell which gears I have? As I understand I'll need a new carrier on the D30 and D35 so I figured I might as well save up and just put in an aftermarket LSD or something like that for the new carrier. Is this project something I can handle on my own or would I be better off taking it to the shop? I prefer the former. Also I just noticed an oil leak between the motor and the tranny. Rear main seal? I have the 0331 head and checked the oil cap for a crack but couldn't see anything. Replacing that is something I don't really look forward to.
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Nov 23, 2012 22:47
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If you don't have a tag on the diff, the old-fashioned method of jacking it up and counting how many times things rotate is always a good one.
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Nov 23, 2012 22:55
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DixielandDelight posted:Also I just noticed an oil leak between the motor and the tranny. Rear main seal? I have the 0331 head and checked the oil cap for a crack but couldn't see anything. Replacing that is something I don't really look forward to. Probably the rear main seal. I wouldn't dig in just to fix that unless it was atrocious, personally. But if I were working in the area and had the trans out, etc, I'd probably do it while I had the chance.
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Nov 23, 2012 23:00
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Passed inspection today. On the way home from picking it up the other day I noticed a speed dependent vibration that picks up around 55mph. The frequency tells me it's probably the drive shaft. I crawled underneath and the u-joints look recently greased and don't seem to have any play. Can u-joints cause a vibration without being obviously shot? e: It seems worse when coasting, and is less intense while accelerating. User Error fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Nov 28, 2012 |
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Nov 23, 2012 23:49
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Godholio posted:Probably the rear main seal. I wouldn't dig in just to fix that unless it was atrocious, personally. But if I were working in the area and had the trans out, etc, I'd probably do it while I had the chance. You can do the rear main seal without pulling the transmission, you just have to drop the oil pan off.
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Nov 24, 2012 00:25
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Lets talk roll cages. At some point in the past i thought it would be killer awesome to cut the back enclosure off my 4 door cherokee. It is what it is, and while the open cabin doesnt bother me unless its below freezing, the fact that im riding a rat-lift jeep on 33s thats liable to crumple up and kill my rear end in even the slightest rollover has put me off from driving it much these days. A 6 point cage saved my life once when rolling off a logging road in a sami on 35s, making me even more aware of just how flim flam my rig is right now. There is only one pre-fab kit roll cage for the XJ that im aware of. The Rock Hard Ultimate Sports Cage: http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/-p-6329.html?gclid=CNLo3YfA5rMCFYN_QgodpCwAhQ Its drat near $1000, which has me instead trying to cost-out fabbing one or having it done custom by a shop. I'm thinking it will cost about $1000 for a shop or me due to equipment cost, but the upside is having the equipment when im done. Maybe im just looking for an excuse to buy a mig welder... I'm only even considering doing it myself because I worked in an exhaust shop and can handle a mig and bender well. But the benders ive used are $10000 huths, which i dont have access to anymore. So what tools are reccomended? Obviously a bender of some kind but which? Also im pretty ignorant of the type of tubing used in a roll cage, engineering dos and donts, whatever. So if anyone has any cage fab experience or XJ specific knowledge hook me up, help me not die in a horrible roll over. Also any opinion on these frame stiffeners?: http://02ea137.netsolstores.com/xjchassisstiffners.pdf  Playin around a couple years ago before the 33s Raw_Beef fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Nov 24, 2012 |
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Nov 24, 2012 03:09
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I would just get the pre-fab kit and make sure it's properly mounted to your Cherokee. The sooner the better because that thing looks floppy as hell 
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Nov 24, 2012 03:25
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Raw_Beef posted:Also any opinion on these frame stiffeners?: http://02ea137.netsolstores.com/xjchassisstiffners.pdf I have the same ones, they're fine. They're slightly thicker than most other brands but don't have pre-drilled holes for Rosette welds, so they're cheaper as well. TnT is doing 10% off all online orders this weekend.
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Nov 24, 2012 03:30
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You want at least 1.75x.120 DOM tube for a cage. Make sure you properly plate the floor or frameside before welding your attachment points on, make sure you form proper nodes and triangulate everything, etc. The best frame stiffeners around for the XJ are the ones made by HD Offroad Engineering and RuffStuff Specialties IMO. I'm on a super slow connection right now (it took like 30 minutes to buffer the russian driving videos someone posted recently, for example) so I can't see that PDF unfortunately. If I was going to cage an XJ I'd be doing a hybrid - external halo around the roof edge, crossbars over it, external A-pillar bars and bars along the tops of the front fenders, tie it into the bumper, tie it into the rocker replacements or rock sliders. Internal B pillar hoop, triangulated, going through the roof to one of the crossbars. Everything on the back is mostly up to you since you chopped the roof, just make sure you engineer it properly and it'll be solid enough. I'm partial to the exo-cage halo on the roof because if done right, it acts as somewhat of a slider and keeps trees and rocks off of your doors and drip rails. It also allows it to be a lot larger and stronger than you can build inside the cabin IMO. As long as you properly design your B pillar hoop, the portion over (or under) the roof of the front seats, and your A pillar bars, and how it all attaches to the unibody, you will survive a pretty rough rollover.
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Nov 24, 2012 03:33
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So I've been thinking about swapping an 8.8 into my stock XJ mainly because I'm bored and need something to do. Plus I like the idea of having an LSD and rear disc. How much of a difference should I expect going from 3.55's to 3.73's? I know I'm going to have the front axle re-geared to match this isn't a big deal either.
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Nov 27, 2012 05:18
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I'm not sure you'll even notice a difference.
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Nov 27, 2012 06:30
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I'm not sure I'd bother. What rearend do you have now? The 8.25, either 27 or 29 spline, is bulletproof in a stock vehicle, or even up to 33" tires or so with stock axleshafts. If you have a d35, you can bolt an 8.25 in with all the same hardware except for the driveshaft and ubolts. If you want you can swap ZJ rear discs onto an 8.25 with about 70 bucks in JY parts and some time and dremel/die grinder usage. An aussie locker for an 8.25 only costs about 300 brand new iirc. If you can weld, an 8.8 is a weekend project once you collect all the parts, if you can't, you're going to be paying someone to do it basically. Needed: 8.8 brake hoses, ebrake cables (stock explorer cables may work on a 97+ XJ with some work) spring perches, ubolts, ubolt plates, shock mounts (or get an 8.8 simple swap kit from ruffstuff) a handful of angle grinder wheels, cutoff wheels, and a big hammer to remove the stock 8.8 bracketry and perches dana/spicer part number 2-2-1379 flange OR a dana/spicer 5-134X adapter ujoint pair of wheel spacers if you want your sidewalls to be safe from the leaf springs (stock may get away without it) might need to have your driveshaft shortened or lengthened slightly. Possibly needed: gear lube replacement diff cover (stock 8.8 covers are made from tinfoil) new rotors, pads, caliper rebuild kits, ebrake hardware kit, ebrake shoes gears (stock gear ratios available in an explorer donor are 3.55, 3.73, 4.10) new clutch packs for LSD
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Nov 27, 2012 07:02
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If you're going to build up a Jeep of any kind, why would you keep an LSD? When you need both wheels turning, you need them to lock up for sure and not worry if the clutch pack can handle the strain of lifting your vehicle on one wheel.
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Nov 27, 2012 07:37
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I honestly don't know what I have, probably a 35 maybe an 8.25. I'd be doing all the work myself I've been welding for 10 years and used to work at an offroad shop in the evenings installing lift kits, welding beadlocks, we did a few axle swaps poo poo like that. I'd rather not drop a lunchbox locker in my current axle. I had dual lock-rights in my previous jeeps. Too ratchety and stuff. I'm more or less sick of my jeep being a total dog on my way to work OD is pretty much useless, I spend most of the drive in D3 until i get the the really flat parts which there isnt much of. Figured if I geared it a bit lower I could actually cruise around without having to drop into passing gear every 30 seconds. And I'm looking for a way to get back into working on poo poo again, I havent really worked on anything over the last few years. Thought this might be an alright way to gently caress with something and walk away with a sense of accomplishment. Edit: I really have no desire to wheel a DD again. Too many sundays fixing poo poo to get to work monday, and the next toy I buy is going to be very speed oriented. Bonus pic of my first jeep from like 10 years ago. 
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Nov 27, 2012 08:04
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I broke my stock 3.07 diffs last year so I put in 3.73 axles (and a D44 this time). I've got a '99 TJ with 32" tires. The difference was pretty big to me. My gas mileage improved. Every gear feels better. Fifth gear is actually usable, although still weaker than I'd like. I can at least climb hills on the highway without shifting now. Also, I find it a ton easier to start moving or off road crawl without holding a foot down on any pedal which I assume is helping the life of my clutch. In other news, my belt sound is back. I put a new belt on and that made it go away, but after a few days, it's making a small chirp along with a intermittent ghostly whirring noise at idle and low rpm. It's 10 degrees out all week so I'm taking it to a garage to see what the stethoscope man can tell me.
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Nov 27, 2012 17:02
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Kastivich posted:School me on adjustable control arms. I've got a 03 Rubicon with a 4.5 in lift. It's on stock control arms now. I've been looking at adjustable units and many of them seem the same. The shop I went to recommended Teraflex but they look the same as Rokmen or Currie and cost $400 more. Is that extra cost worth it? The JKS are the only ones that look substantially different than the other options but once again they are $400 more than the Rokmen. Thoughts on the issue? Bumping this back up since it didn't get any responses. Anyone have any thoughts on control arms. Im leaning towards the Rokmen units now.
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Nov 27, 2012 20:36
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Well the mechanic said my engine sound may be the fan clutch or the idler pulley. I put in a new idler pulley afterward, and so far no noise.. but it doesn't happen all the time anyways. I drove about 20 miles so far after the new pulley. There isn't any fluid leaking out of the clutch, there is a little fan lateral movement if I push on a blade pretty hard but I think it's within acceptable range.. (about 1/4", maybe a tad more). The articles I've read say that the fan shouldn't spin freely more than a few rotations after hand pushing it, or else the clutch is bad, but it doesn't spin even one rotation. It has a bit of resistance which stays constant through the whole revolution and stops it spinning freely. Do your jeep fans spin more freely or do we all have a little resistance? The resistance is so constant, it feels like it was designed this way. The engine temp doesn't deviate ever. I'm driving 2500 miles to arizona in a few days so I'm debating whether to drive and hope the fan clutch is fine or just put a new one it for safe measure. I'd rather just get to AZ where it is warm enough to put in a new water pump and fan clutch at the same time. The old pulley did make a groan when I spun it without the belt, so maybe that was it. ethanol fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Nov 27, 2012 |
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Nov 27, 2012 22:09
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I wouldn't bother replacing it before the road trip. At highway speeds you should get plenty of airflow through the radiator, fan or not...plus it's not summer.
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Nov 27, 2012 22:19
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chem42 posted:Passed inspection today. On the way home from picking it up the other day I noticed a speed dependent vibration that picks up around 55mph. The frequency tells me it's probably the drive shaft. I crawled underneath and the u-joints look recently greased and don't seem to have any play. Can u-joints cause a vibration without being obviously shot? I replaced the u-joints and the transmission mount and the vibration hasn't changed. Any ideas? It picks up around 55mph or so, but it seems to stick around when decelerating lower than that. It's worst coasting with my foot barely on the gas. I can feel it through the shifter.
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Nov 28, 2012 02:35
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Godholio posted:I wouldn't bother replacing it before the road trip. At highway speeds you should get plenty of airflow through the radiator, fan or not...plus it's not summer.
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Nov 28, 2012 02:59
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ethanol posted:Another 40 miles and no sound yet, so I think I'll take my chances and drive it. If the fan clutch fails, will the pulley still turn the waterpump? It will either go completely loose or grip hard, depending on the design, when it fails. The former sucks for stop-and-go and the latter will make your engine really loud and waste more gas. But neither should stop the belt from turning.
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Nov 28, 2012 03:27
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chem42 posted:I replaced the u-joints and the transmission mount and the vibration hasn't changed. Any ideas? It picks up around 55mph or so, but it seems to stick around when decelerating lower than that. It's worst coasting with my foot barely on the gas. I can feel it through the shifter. Try balancing the tires? Maybe it needs an alignment as well.. That is the only 2 things that pop to mind.
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Nov 28, 2012 03:37
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chem42 posted:I replaced the u-joints and the transmission mount and the vibration hasn't changed. Any ideas? It picks up around 55mph or so, but it seems to stick around when decelerating lower than that. It's worst coasting with my foot barely on the gas. I can feel it through the shifter. Check your wheel bearings too. When my front wheel bearing was shot I had some bad vibrations and noise at highway speed. Jack up each wheel and try to jiggle the tire to see if there's any play. Rotate them while in the air to listen for groaning or chattering when they turn.
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Nov 28, 2012 08:40
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God drat, there's a new special anniversary edition of the Wrangler Rubicon out: http://www.autoblog.com/2012/11/28/2013-jeep-wrangler-rubicon-10th-anniversary-edition-gets-full-fr/ One big change is the bumper, it can fit a winch and has endcaps that come off for better articulation. Looks like some nice cooling vents in the hood too. I really want one. :/
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Nov 28, 2012 08:45
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I really like that new Anvil color. But I haven't seen anything saying whether the hood vents are functional or not...AEV designed the hood, but the MW3 edition had a non-functional copy that actually just collected about a gallon of water. There were some posts on another forum from a guy that was having the unpleasant experience of that water freezing and breaking loose, then hitting the windshield.
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Nov 28, 2012 15:32
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That looks great but I can't stand those red seats. I'd prefer normal gray tones any day.
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Nov 28, 2012 18:33
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Nope still don't like it - not even a bit. How do I remove the downstream cat on a TJ? I'm replacing it with a new one but there's a bracket kind of thing attaching it to the transmission it looks like.
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Nov 29, 2012 03:08
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ethanol posted:That looks great but I can't stand those red seats. I'd prefer normal gray tones any day. gray tones look a lot better after a few soakings with mud and subsequent washes too. You know- what these things are designed for.
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Nov 29, 2012 21:31
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Ok, I need a front license plate mounting bracket for my '96 xj. But this is the most confusing poo poo ever. So this OE part number 52003479, Shows that it is only for 87-93 xj's on Amazon and Quadratech. However, some sites list it as 87-01, for the same exact part. I emailed Quadratech, and they said it would not fit. However, a replacement OE bumper is '84-96. How the gently caress can a replacement OE bumper, work for 12 years, but the OE front license plate bracket only work for 6 of those... for the same piece of equipment. Anyone just happen to have an extra, I can pay you shipping or whatever. Otherwise I'm just going to have to order one and see if it works.
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Nov 30, 2012 02:24
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Various companies have their heads up their asses. That will work on 84-96 at the very least and I can't see why it wouldn't work on 97-01 as well, especially if you aren't afraid to drill two teensy little 1/8 or so holes in the bottom lip of the bumper to mount it. Year splits on quadratech and many other sites are notoriously unreliable, get used to it. Or just do what I did (since I no longer have a factory bumper or any kind of appearances to maintain) and use 4 6" zipties to attach it to the middle of the grill.
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Nov 30, 2012 02:35
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kastein posted:Various companies have their heads up their asses. That will work on 84-96 at the very least and I can't see why it wouldn't work on 97-01 as well, especially if you aren't afraid to drill two teensy little 1/8 or so holes in the bottom lip of the bumper to mount it. That's basically what I figured. Although I'm pretty disappointed at Quadratech for not knowing their poo poo as they are like the major jeep parts company. I was hoping someone would walk outside and look at the product instead of some chick who just answers emails and sees 87-93 and just responding with "that doesn't fit". Come on.
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Nov 30, 2012 09:23
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