|
Here we go 25 easy simple projects for the holidays http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2008/11/25-fast-easy-and-free-woodworking-plans-for-last-minute-christmas-gifts
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2012 04:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 06:03 |
|
|
Starker44 posted:Here we go 25 easy simple projects for the holidays The stilts are an interesting idea. Wish they had a picture of the finished product.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2012 06:22
|
|
|
wormil posted:That's a good idea. I plan on making a few of Roy Underhill's grease boxes in different sizes. Also a tea tray, a mirror and some doll furniture for my daughter. I've never made one of those wine balancer things but maybe this year. It suddenly got cold here and my shop is unheated so I'm behind. Oh yeah, I remember that item, and thought it was pretty cool. Other than grease, can you think of anything like jewelry or something that might give the design a broader appeal, maybe at larger sizes?
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2012 08:04
|
|
|
Off the top of my head I can think of: screws, pins, buttons, small keys, chewing tobacco, bits of string, a rolli-polli, pills for the day, treats, game pieces, special fishing lures. You could etch ruler markings or etch the layout to a mini game you made up that stores the pieces inside. Get a little speaker to put inside so can have your own "wooden" music bullet.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2012 08:30
|
|
|
Cobalt60 posted:Oh yeah, I remember that item, and thought it was pretty cool. Other than grease, can you think of anything like jewelry or something that might give the design a broader appeal, maybe at larger sizes? Just pack it with lard and say, "Merry Christmas!" I think most people will just like the box. Episode: http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/video/2900/2901.html This begs to be carved, again, something I need to learn.  Pencil box version by Bob Easton http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/date/2010/04/ 
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2012 09:13
|
|
|
I need to make a short, large diameter dowel. I've got 4 pieces of some mystery wood (maybe Oak) that I'm gluing together to make a bigger block, about 4x4x6". What would be a good way to turn it into a dowel, besides a lathe? It doesn't have to be perfect but closer to round is better. I've got a table saw, radial arm saw, smallish bench top drill press, angle grinder, circular saw, a few planes of various sizes, a basic set of chisels, handsaws other general hand tools. I don't have a drawknife or spokeshave and my work holding capacity is basically clamps, no vises yet. I can see clamping a stop block and planing two of the corners down to round, but after that it wouldn't be stable when I flip it over to do the other two corners. This jig for the table saw looks like a possibility although I don't have a dado set and my work piece is pretty short and I need the whole thing round: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=frAs0PVXlJI Here's a gift-idea I found while trying to google a solution: http://www.newwoodworker.com/tstrivets.html
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2012 02:40
|
|
|
How big? What are the actual final dimensions you need? One option would be to cut it down to an octagon on your tablesaw and then grab a rasp and knock the corners off, and then sand it down a bit. That'd take a minimum of effort, I'd imagine.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2012 02:55
|
|
|
Cpt.Wacky posted:This jig for the table saw looks like a possibility although I don't have a dado set and my work piece is pretty short and I need the whole thing round: I've done this with a regular blade and it works fine, just slower. Can't see it working to make a long dowel though unless your blank was really long. Also without a dado blade it would get tedious pretty quick. There is a video somewhere of a guy making a dowel with a router table, can't remember if it was on youtube or Woodsmith. A few pics from a simple shop chair I'm making to use up a big pile of 2x4 offcuts from another project. It wasn't thought out and I'm a little worried the tenons are too short.    Practice/test piece for back legs/chair back 
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2012 05:05
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:How big? What are the actual final dimensions you need? I glued up the final piece tonight and it's about 3" x 3.5" x 6". I'm aiming for a 3" diameter and 6" long. I'll try cutting off the corners and planing/rasping/sanding it down. The router table approach works for smaller dowels by using a roundover bit on all four corners. And I already wanted a lathe from all the bowl porn in this thread. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2012 06:08
|
|
|
wormil posted:There is a video somewhere of a guy making a dowel with a router table, can't remember if it was on youtube or Woodsmith. This? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3MNbm3NCHE
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2012 17:47
|
|
|
I think it would be fun to have one of these but practically I have no use for it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2012 09:44
|
|
|
/\ Those are nice, but aren't you limited in the length you can use? (the length you can hammer through the hole without the dowel breaking) I've seen people make dowels like this, by taking a chunk of metal 1/4" or more, and drilling a hole the desired dowel thickness in the middle, then two smaller holes that slightly overlap. The metal where the two circles intersect is quite sharp, and results in a cutting surface. Then you can use the same method I posted above, by sticking your length of wood in a drill and pushing it through. So if I wanted to make 1/2" dowel, I'd have a setup like so... 
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2012 14:25
|
|
|
wormil posted:I think it would be fun to have one of these but practically I have no use for it. They are really useful if you drawbore a lot.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2012 21:19
|
|
|
Started a practice grease box today and am glad it was in pine because I screwed it up royally. My hand sawing skills are not up to par yet. Even though I used Roy's maxim, never saw what you can't see, I still managed to go about 1/8" off while sawing out the middle (after sawing down across each corner). I'm wondering too if it would have been easier with a panel saw (as in hand saw not a sheet goods saw) instead of a bow saw. My bow saw's blade is about 1.5" wide and I thought it would track well enough but apparently not. I tried again with my Harbor Freight flush cutting saw and it worked very well until I hit a knot and the teeth kept clogging. This would be a snap with a bandsaw but I don't have one and really want to use hand tools anyway. Wanting to end the day on a positive note I knocked out a small try-square in walnut and spalted maple. Spalted wood is probably not the best choice for a square but what the hell, I used it anyway. It's up in my shop with a coat of linseed oil drying and tomorrow I'll post a pic. wormil fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Nov 25, 2012 |
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2012 05:37
|
|
|
Try-square as promised. Oil & wax finish.  
wormil fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Nov 25, 2012 |
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2012 05:48
|
|
|
Did some land clearing on my dads place and set aside some cedar chunks for possible future use if my dad ever fixes his lathe. Any advice on how to dry/store them so I end up with something usable? They are mostly a couple inches tall and have a 6" diameter. I would have made them larger, but I wasn't thinking about saving them when I was cutting the trees out. Any advice for next time I am out with the chainsaw?
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2012 07:37
|
|
|
Most importantly, seal the ends to minimize checking. Latex paint, glue size, shellac, or there are products made specifically for that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2012 08:27
|
|
|
wormil posted:Most importantly, seal the ends to minimize checking. Latex paint, glue size, shellac, or there are products made specifically for that. I will do this next time I am out on the ranch. If this first set ends up ruined or marginal then it will not be that great of a loss.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2012 23:20
|
|
|
I need to build a custom table to fit under my computer desk and hold my digital piano. Someone online had the same problem and built this table to hold it:  The only problem is I don't know the first thing about table building. My plan was to go to home depot, ask them to cut pieces of wood the same shape size as the ones in there, spray paint it all black and attach wheels. Is there any advice or ways I can do this a little more properly so it looks and feels well done? What kind of wood to buy, what I can do for finish, what kind of screws or if I should use brackets to hold the thing together? Any advice would be great.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2012 04:21
|
|
|
FateFree posted:I need to build a custom table to fit under my computer desk .. There was a discussion about this a few weeks ago when someone else wanted the exact same thing but I can't remember which thread it was in. What tools do you have available and how much time are you willing to invest? Is this something you want to last a couple years or the rest of your life? You could always mimic the table in the picture and if it turns out rickety then add some diagonal bracing. The kind of wood and finish is up to your aesthetic, for screws I prefer square drive deck screws. The best way to learn to build tables is to study tables. If you want to search through my posts at some point I did a write-up on table designs for someone else. But really that metal table you posted looks more like an early French woodworking bench... heavy legs and top joined by mortise and tenons with stretchers running around the bottom. You could probably get away with brackets instead of mortise and tenons though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2012 09:55
|
|
|
Well I dont have any tools unfortunately. The best I could do was get the wood cut at a hardware store and then sand and finish and screw it together myself. But before I go down that road, let me ask if there is another option. This is my desk: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40111124/ Its 54 inches across and about 20 inches deep until it hits that wire organizer. I'm trying to fit a 50 inch/14inch digital piano weighing about 40 pounds under it. The rollout desk was my first option, but is it possible to construct a long pull out shelf under the desk? It would need to span almost the length of the whole desk and be sturdy enough to withstand 40 pounds plus me pressing down on the keys. Is there some kind of generic bracket system I can use to put in a shelf that pulls out about 6-8 inches past the desk? Or is the under table a better option? edit For example, here is a very expensive desk with the keyboard shelf: http://www.kkaudio.com/A1.html FateFree fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Nov 28, 2012 |
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2012 14:51
|
|
|
I just saw a Rigid lathe at the local Goodwill for $60. Not sure the model, but it looked like this. Is that worth picking up or is something like that not worth anything?
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2012 14:56
|
|
|
FateFree posted:Well I dont have any tools unfortunately. The best I could do was get the wood cut at a hardware store and then sand and finish and screw it together myself. But before I go down that road, let me ask if there is another option. You could buy some full extension heavy-duty drawer slides and then mount them to a piece of plywood or premade countertop. But looking at your desk, you don't really have any thing to mount the drawer slides to on that. If you have a drill you could make some holes in the frame of your desk and bolt on some brackets for the drawer slides to mount to.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2012 15:16
|
|
|
Elston Gunn posted:You could buy some full extension heavy-duty drawer slides and then mount them to a piece of plywood or premade countertop. But looking at your desk, you don't really have any thing to mount the drawer slides to on that. If you have a drill you could make some holes in the frame of your desk and bolt on some brackets for the drawer slides to mount to. Hmm.. well the desk does have these beefy metal beams for support.. Here is what it looks like from the manual:  Maybe I could mount it to those. Is there any special name for those slides? Just drawer brackets?
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2012 15:20
|
|
|
FateFree posted:Well I dont have any tools unfortunately. The best I could do was get the wood cut at a hardware store and then sand and finish and screw it together myself. But before I go down that road, let me ask if there is another option. What is the distance between the outside edges of the feet? This table http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50228034/ is 55" wide but the I suspect the inside width is ~51" while your desk is 54 but the feet look a bit more narrow so maybe the stand I linked to would slide in *around* the feet?... I was thinking you buy this stand and then get these casters http://www.amazon.com/Capacity-Rubber-Wheel-Locking-Casters/dp/B004KZAR68/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1354117915&sr=8-4&keywords=casters That stand plus those casters puts you at about 2' 4" which leaves maybe 3-3.5" inches for the piano?
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2012 17:01
|
|
|
I just came across this, a "non-commercial site focusing on color-correct pictures of exotic and domestic woods." It is, in a word...extensive. http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/ For instance, check out the modest entry on claro walnut: http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/walnut,%20claro.htm
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2012 17:15
|
|
|
kafkasgoldfish posted:What is the distance between the outside edges of the feet? This table http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50228034/ is 55" wide but the I suspect the inside width is ~51" while your desk is 54 but the feet look a bit more narrow so maybe the stand I linked to would slide in *around* the feet?... I was thinking you buy this stand and then get these casters http://www.amazon.com/Capacity-Rubber-Wheel-Locking-Casters/dp/B004KZAR68/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1354117915&sr=8-4&keywords=casters Thanks for the suggestion. Ill need about 5.5 inches for the piano, but the real problem is I need the whole thing to be as tight as possible because my knees arent going to fit under the desk unless I really maximize my space there. I'm really looking towards making the pull out shelf option work, because thats definitely easier to use and would take up much less space. I was thinking maybe these drawer slides: http://www.amazon.com/Drawer-Slide-...=I2TYJRDHFAE0NG and then some bracket to attach them to, and then the only problem is what to make the actual shelf out of. It would be nice if whatever it is is very thin and very strong. Maybe a piece of wood with a metal cross section for support? I'm way out of my league here but the idea is really getting exciting.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2012 17:53
|
|
|
FateFree posted:Thanks for the suggestion. Ill need about 5.5 inches for the piano, but the real problem is I need the whole thing to be as tight as possible because my knees arent going to fit under the desk unless I really maximize my space there. I'm really looking towards making the pull out shelf option work, because thats definitely easier to use and would take up much less space. Those slides are fine, probably overkill. Here's what I was thinking:  The drawer slides would mount to the wood brackets and the plywood shelf brackets. It's pretty much how it is done on the desk that you linked earlier.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2012 20:02
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:I just came across this, a "non-commercial site focusing on color-correct pictures of exotic and domestic woods." It is, in a word...extensive. Someone pointed me to that site when I was trying to identify a South American pallet wood, it's an amazing resource.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2012 20:31
|
|
|
Elston Gunn posted:Those slides are fine, probably overkill. Here's what I was thinking: Thanks elston, this looks pretty manageable. I originally didnt envision the wood brackets, I thought it was going to be two small metal brackets hanging down on each side - but I don't think the drawer slides would mount to those anyway now that I consider it. Do you think the plywood needs to be reinforced with a metal bracket to prevent sagging?
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2012 21:24
|
|
|
FateFree posted:Thanks elston, this looks pretty manageable. I originally didnt envision the wood brackets, I thought it was going to be two small metal brackets hanging down on each side - but I don't think the drawer slides would mount to those anyway now that I consider it. I don't know how much a keyboard weighs, but you could add hardwood strips to the front and rear of the shelf to reinforce it. This is a handy tool to play with: http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm#edge_strip
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2012 21:46
|
|
|
Pics coming soon. I just started building my first long board. Does anyone have experience doing this? The most I could turn up on Google was assembling kits instead of instructions on doing it from scratch. Also, I don't have much of a history with skating so any recommendations for size/style/hardware would be great. I plan on using it for goofing around in parking lots and transportation, no high speed or downhill stuff. The plan is to take a big piece of oak and slice 1/8" veneers out of it. Five layers is the norm, I believe. I'm thinking about 42" by 8 1/2". Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2012 00:34
|
|
|
Crossposting from What Did You Just Buy, thought it might be of use to anyone in need over here: Dust collector for the shop, normally $250, marked down to $200, and a coupon took it down to $170 total. Hopefully it's not completely poo poo, although if it is, I have until the end of February to return it. Cleeeaaan luuungs (gotta use that link to see the coupon, finding it the normal way just shows the $200 price)
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2012 03:50
|
|
|
So having read this article about setting up chipbreakers a while back, I finally managed to apply it to one of my planes. My earlier tries just had me getting shavings wedged between the chipbreaker and plane iron. I think it was a combination of some more flattening on the back and spending more time flattening the mating surface of the chipbreaker that did it. I also put a slightly more blunt edge on the front of the chipbreaker after watching this japanese video where they took super close up video of planes and chip irons. With the breaker as close as I could get to the cutting edge as I could get while still feeling the edge, I was cutting glass-smooth on a previously pretty aggravating piece of tiger maple.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2012 15:58
|
|
|
I found this on Craigslist today and have been thinking of starting up a shop. I have no idea what these would run for new but I know I want pretty much this trifecta of tools. To start out. http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/tls/3421509038.html
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2012 17:36
|
|
|
Crimpanzee posted:I found this on Craigslist today and have been thinking of starting up a shop. I have no idea what these would run for new but I know I want pretty much this trifecta of tools. To start out. No way those are worth $850. Probably not even half that. Those table saws can be pretty good with some work, but I would stay away from that band saw and jointer. See if this is still available: http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/tls/3431358295.html
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2012 18:05
|
|
|
swampface posted:So having read this article about setting up chipbreakers a while back, I finally managed to apply it to one of my planes. My earlier tries just had me getting shavings wedged between the chipbreaker and plane iron. I think it was a combination of some more flattening on the back and spending more time flattening the mating surface of the chipbreaker that did it. I also put a slightly more blunt edge on the front of the chipbreaker after watching this japanese video where they took super close up video of planes and chip irons. With the breaker as close as I could get to the cutting edge as I could get while still feeling the edge, I was cutting glass-smooth on a previously pretty aggravating piece of tiger maple. That japanese video is really good. It really shows what the function of the chip breaker is. What are you using for a plane?
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2012 21:07
|
|
|
Crimpanzee posted:I found this on Craigslist today and have been thinking of starting up a shop. I have no idea what these would run for new but I know I want pretty much this trifecta of tools. To start out. I have that bandsaw and the better version of the table saw (cast iron top and wings). I bought both used but in impeccable shape. $50 for the bandsaw, $80 for the table saw. Both REALLY great deals. I see that bandsaw go for $150 pretty regularly at auctions and about the same for the table saw. For $850 you could get a brand new Grizzly 14" bandsaw AND a new Grizzly table saw. mds2 fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Nov 29, 2012 |
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2012 21:10
|
|
|
mds2 posted:That japanese video is really good. It really shows what the function of the chip breaker is. What are you using for a plane? A Stanley No. 5 off of ebay. Took ages to flatten the sole when I first got it. However much I long to have a lie-nielson or veritas, I just can't justify the cost.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2012 22:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 06:03 |
|
|
Cool, thanks for the advice guys, I'll keep looking.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2012 23:19
|
|