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Devian666 posted:Given that you get bursts of higher speed and it is inconsistent it actually looks like someone else is using that channel. Try 54 mbit/s as that may cope better with interference. Either that or you have something that is obstructing the signal. I installed Tomato and have a few new questions to see if the setup is correct. - Wireless Mode is set to Access Point, but I remember someone here earlier saying that in this situation you can bridge it. One of the dropdown options is Wireless Ethernet Bridge. - Wireless Network Mode is now set to Auto and the options are B Only or G Only. What happened to N or the different speed settings? - Tomato can scan the channels and there were some weak ones on channel 1, while 3 is empty so I switched to that. inSSIDer isn't really showing me anything new. Amplitude is at -29dBm now and it's pretty solid from channel 1 to 5. Still getting the same inconsistent results.
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Nov 30, 2012 02:25
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Devian666 posted:I've been following this story on twitter. Ars have had someone testing google fibre. When I last saw they had a 830 mbit/s downstream connection and apparently at peak (after some tweaking) they're hitting up to 900 mbit/s. If it makes you feel any better, my "A" rated US service (rating from Speedtest reports) is 1/30th the speed of the Google Fiber. That poo poo is just absurdly fast.
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Nov 30, 2012 03:36
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Wanting a new router - my current router is 2.4ghz only, not n, and is losing connection at least once a day. Anyway, I'm deciding between the Apple Airport Extreme or the ASUS RT-N66U. My desktop is on a wired connection to the router, as is the Xbox 360. We have 2 iPhones, a laptop, and a Kindle Fire which may be in use on the wireless at the same general time. All of this stuff is used in pretty close proximity to the router (20 feet or so) and there is a desktop with a wireless card about 50 feet from the router. We are getting pretty slow speeds on all the wireless devices as well as the random rebooting annoyance. It's hard to find a channel without some overlap in my neighborhood. I currently use Tomato and like it, but I wouldn't say it's a necessity. The ASUS is $149 and I can get the Airport Extreme for $159 through a discount. Guide me, oh goons.
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Nov 30, 2012 04:51
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Mantle posted:If you do end up trying the trial, please post if it works or not. I'm curious to know. I'm not sure how it's _supposed_ to work, but upon signing up for a free trial (through another VPN, since naturally they are blocked in China) and changing DNS on the ipad as per their instructions, I'm getting nothing. If I had to guess, I would guess that the unblockus IPs are just banned or something. Can't get there from here, if you will.
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Nov 30, 2012 05:28
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It's not unheard of for China/Chinese ISPs to re-write DNS replies to point wherever they would like (or nowhere at all).
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Nov 30, 2012 05:42
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beejay posted:Anyway, I'm deciding between the Apple Airport Extreme or the ASUS RT-N66U. Based on my short experience so far with the Airport Extreme, I would go with the Asus. I've found that the Airport Extreme lacks RIP, UPnP, and triggered port forwarding which is standard on most other routers. This makes it a pain in the rear end if you ever want to do port forwarding to computers in your network. That might be something you might want to take into consideration especially since you have an xbox 360.
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Nov 30, 2012 06:04
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KingKapalone posted:I installed Tomato and have a few new questions to see if the setup is correct. Leave it as an access point. Bridging is only when you have a wireless bridge between two parts of the network rather than a wired connection. Don't worry about N speeds for now, it'd be good if you got G speeds first. Can you copy your wireless settings here?
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Nov 30, 2012 07:09
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Devian666 posted:Leave it as an access point. Bridging is only when you have a wireless bridge between two parts of the network rather than a wired connection. Here they are. I just noticed that Interference: Severe on the first box. 
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Nov 30, 2012 08:36
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Try switching on interference mitigation to either manual or auto. Beacon interval of 50 may help as well. E: there's a high probability that someone has continuous activity on their wireless network. Devian666 fucked around with this message at 10:42 on Nov 30, 2012 |
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Nov 30, 2012 10:37
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beejay posted:I'm deciding between the Apple Airport Extreme or the ASUS RT-N66U. That shouldn't even be a decision to be honest. I use the RT-N66U for 2-3 months now and it just runs flawless. Buy recommendation for everyone, no doubt. Literally 10 minutes after I unpacked that beauty (& beast) the newest Tomato Shibby was installed on it and couple minutes later after everything was configured properly it was up and running. Before the Asus I had a DIR-600 and oh boy let me tell you what a difference it is now. Seriously, do yourself a favor and get the Asus.
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Nov 30, 2012 11:45
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Anyone good with pfSense? Here's the deal: We have a fast (50mb) cable connection but it goes down every now and then. A week or two ago we had a slow (768k lol) DSL modem installed (we also brought in actual phone lines because our phone service was from the cable company and that going down all the time was the reason for the switch). Anyway, the idea was we would have a DSL line for backup since slow internet is better than no internet, which we send everyone home because we are an INTARNET COMPANY. I use using m0n0wall with the cable modem before and the DSL connection we had at our old building, mainly for the DNS features and traffic shaping. I setup a server with pfSense on it, gave it an IP from the cable modem and the DSL modem, and tested the failover out. It worked as expected, taking like 5 seconds or so to switch over. On Monday or Tuesday, I called the DSL provider and got the information for the static IP block we were supposed to get, and had the speed turned up to 3.0mb. Not great but better than 768k. Now, instead of getting a private IP from the DSL modem's DHCP server (129.168.1.whatever), the pfSense interface gets a public IP (I statically set this. I had it going via DHCP (still a public IP) and it does the same thing). I can set up a laptop with another IP address from our block and it gets online fine and if I got to a site that shows your IP address, it's the correct public address. The point is, now the failover doesn't work right. Any ideas why? The screenshot shows traffic on the primary (the top graph) then you can see where I pulled the plug on the cable modem, and the traffic automatically shifts to the DSL modem (bottom graph). But there's no incoming traffic, only outgoing. I was going to test putting the DSL modem back to the factory settings so it (the modem) uses the single public DHCP address and see if the failover still works. I would be doing double-NAT to the network clients but if it works who gives a poo poo.  edit: derp, fixed it, dns issue - http://forum.pfsense.org/index.php/topic,22473.0.html Bob Morales fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Nov 30, 2012 |
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Nov 30, 2012 16:36
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Inspector_71 posted:If it makes you feel any better, my "A" rated US service (rating from Speedtest reports) is 1/30th the speed of the Google Fiber. That poo poo is just absurdly fast. I think the way to look at google fibre is from an infrastructure perspective. There's no way you can use all the speed currently expect for latency benefits. What it does allow for is that the bandwidth is there for the future. In New Zealand the fibre rollout is from a different perspective. By 2015 75% of the country will be on the national fibre network. In some ways it's about following in the footsteps of South Korea (even though they're switching to national gigabit now). Most providers seem to be planning to offer or extend their current services which I suspect will end up offering cable like services. Our one cable provider already offers 100mbit/s connection. All the bandwidth is likely to end up with a number of new services being offered here. Too bad google fibre doesn't offer itself to businesses.
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Nov 30, 2012 20:39
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I went with the Asus. It had a $20 rebate on Amazon that ends today too so that is nice. I'm on kind of an Apple kick lately so I thought the Airport would be neat but when it comes down to it, I want to have a lot of control over my router and the Asus will give me that. Thanks all.
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Nov 30, 2012 21:41
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Vax posted:That shouldn't even be a decision to be honest. I use the RT-N66U for 2-3 months now and it just runs flawless. Buy recommendation for everyone, no doubt. Literally 10 minutes after I unpacked that beauty (& beast) the newest Tomato Shibby was installed on it and couple minutes later after everything was configured properly it was up and running. Before the Asus I had a DIR-600 and oh boy let me tell you what a difference it is now. Seriously, do yourself a favor and get the Asus. I also have the Asus RT-N66U and it's incredible, especially with a 5GHz adapter. Before I used to have trouble wirelessly streaming HD content from my home computer to my wired PS3 and now it's completely smooth and amazing.
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Nov 30, 2012 21:45
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By the way, for anyone this might help, here's how I finally got the Airport Extreme to stop dropping ports. So through a little research, I found that the SB5101 Motorola cable modem is incapable of NAT and the only reason it uses DHCP is to basically forward the public IP to the router. With this info, and the fact that the router can see the public IP, I knew that the Apple router had to be the problem. I tried tons of different configurations to get the router to stop dropping ports, but nothing worked. So I ended up having to effectively put my computer in DMZ by setting my computer's local IP as the NAT's default host. This basically forces all unaddressed incoming requests to be forwarded to my computer, regardless of which ports they travel in through. Please note that this is a loving horrible solution in a security sense, but I guess I don't have any other options to get this working with this specific router. Edit: Forgot to say, thanks for the replies Ninja Rope! The Gadfly fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Dec 1, 2012 |
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Dec 1, 2012 04:27
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If you have a firewall enabled on that host (like the one that comes with Windows) that will be enough to keep you safe. It should be manageable enough that you can open the ports you need through your OSs firewall. Glad it's working.
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Dec 1, 2012 06:54
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I'm looking for a wireless router that will give me absolutely uninterrupted service on wired ethernet. Money is no object, I just need something with extremely reliable ethernet because if it stops working even once the results could be catastrophic. It would also be nice if it had a USB port and was fairly future proof (so no wrt54gl, despite how nice and reliable I've heard it is). I also need to be able to change the MAC address, so no AirPorts.
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Dec 1, 2012 16:21
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Erned posted:I'm looking for a wireless router that will give me absolutely uninterrupted service on wired ethernet. Money is no object, I just need something with extremely reliable ethernet because if it stops working even once the results could be catastrophic. If money is truly no object, and reliability is paramount, then I'd recommend a pair of pfSense boxes with CARP failover. On server-grade hardware. Another option would be a pair of Mikrotiks running VRRP. Check out the Mikrotik thread. Either way, I'd have dedicated hardware for routing and something separate for Wi-Fi.
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Dec 1, 2012 17:20
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Devian666 posted:Try switching on interference mitigation to either manual or auto. Beacon interval of 50 may help as well. I tried changing these settings and it hasn't improved. I'm seeing the interference reading on the first box fluctuate between Acceptable and Ready. The Rate reading is also going from 5.5Mbps to 65Mbps and spending most of the time at 52Mbps instead of the 117 Mbps or higher level seen in the screenshot. I'm getting fewer of the tests to come up with acceptable speed levels. This is also happening after going back to the original settings I had posted.
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Dec 1, 2012 21:05
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If it's THAT critical it stay running 24/7 you're in the wrong thread. You need something (or rather, 2+ somethings) from Juniper or Cisco (actual Cisco, not rebranded linksys).
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Dec 1, 2012 22:13
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Ninja Rope posted:If it's THAT critical it stay running 24/7 you're in the wrong thread. You need something (or rather, 2+ somethings) from Juniper or Cisco (actual Cisco, not rebranded linksys). That, and you should carefully evaluate the building/physical environment for redundancy, e.g. redundant power lines, UPS, generator, redundant internet connections, air conditioning, etc. Although I still say that redundant pfSense on server hardware can be every bit as reliable as Junipers or Ciscos. Plus, it's inexpensive enough to keep a cold spare.
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Dec 2, 2012 00:17
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I just moved into a new place that's wired with Cat 5 everywhere. I can't seem to get it to work so I'm wondering if I'm doing something stupid or what I need to do. I attached an image and I know a bunch of you are going to say "it's obvious, you need a router" but what I'm trying to do is to just have the cable modem tied into the ICC expansion card on the wall, and then I'll plug one router (and only one) into one (and only one) of the wall jacks and go from there. Basically I'd like it to go Cable Modem -> Through the wires in the walls -> Router that lives next to the TV and is connected to all of my components. I googled the part number and it says it can be used for "broadband" with a switch or a hub; is that necessary if I only care if one port works at a time? I was thinking another option would be to pull out this expansion thing and just terminate all the blue wires with regular ethernet connectors and then plug one of them into the cable modem. Does anyone have any ideas? Chemmy fucked around with this message at 09:25 on Dec 2, 2012 |
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Dec 2, 2012 09:19
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Steve Yun posted:A friend of mine discovered that his office building has unused/abandoned fiber in it. He's looking up "dark fiber" and how to use it for networking. I really don't understand this. Dark Fiber as in a lot of old rear end poo poo just in the walls or what? I used to run a lot of fiber for my job. Mostly multimode stuff. My shop ran it all from the switches to the PCs. 3 different networks. Honestly, what are yo looking to do with it? A backbone between some switches? The big problem with fiber is that you need a kit to install it. I mostly did Hot Melts, and the connectors are 5-10 bucks EACH. And if the fiber breaks while you are polishing it, bye bye 
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Dec 2, 2012 11:17
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Chemmy posted:I just moved into a new place that's wired with Cat 5 everywhere. I can't seem to get it to work so I'm wondering if I'm doing something stupid or what I need to do. The biggest thing that stands out to me is the fact that the pin out appears wrong for cat5 networking on that expansion thing. If you just want to do 100baseT, you could probably make this piece of crap work. Though I wouldn't bet my life on it. You'd need to make a crazy crossover cable on one of the sides to use those 4 pins correctly. However, I'm not a telephone guy, so I have no idea if it's just using pins 1-4 for those. If you have a multimeter you could tone it out. Are the blue wire normal cat5 with just 4 wires being used? If that's true, just rip out the fucker you want to use from the telephone thing, strip it back to get all 8 wires, terminate it with a female end. (Or a male end and just buy a coupler, or plug it right into the modem) Then on the other side, do the same thing. TLG James fucked around with this message at 11:33 on Dec 2, 2012 |
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Dec 2, 2012 11:28
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I have an absolutely bizarre problem. I had (have) a Linksys E2500 router that I've been using problem free for about 4 months. Friday it just crapped out. Network died for both wireless and wired. A restart got it back up but that lasted maybe 5 minutes before going out again. At this point, I went out and bought a brand new router, Linksys EA3500. I brought it home, set it up and wouldn't you know, same loving issue. I can keep it up for maybe 30-45 minutes max but network just dies. Sometimes it comes back on its own, sometimes I have to power cycle it or it won't work. I'd be willing to chalk this up to bad luck if it wasn't the exact same symptoms on a brand new router. I've reset the MTU. I've changed the channel on both bands to something no one else is using. I don't think it's a wifi issue because I have wired devices that die too. I've been pulling my hair out for 2 days on this now.
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Dec 2, 2012 14:40
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Can anyone recommend a PC wireless card that isnt a total piece of poo poo? I've got a Cisco/Linksys WMP600N and it's hopeless - gets worse reception than an adroid phone in the same location in the house, drops connection randomly for a few seconds and somehow manages to cause stuttering on the rest of the machine when it's in use (seriously, I get mouse input stuttering on a core i5, that shouldn't happen). I'm fairly sure it's not a router issuer as a) reception is better on a phone at the same range and b) the router isn't even that far away though there are some (non-brick) walls in the way. I've tried replacing the crummy Cisco drivers with the RALink ones which seems to have worked for some people but I think that the core problem is that this is an old chipset.
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Dec 2, 2012 15:38
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KingKapalone posted:I tried changing these settings and it hasn't improved. I'm seeing the interference reading on the first box fluctuate between Acceptable and Ready. The Rate reading is also going from 5.5Mbps to 65Mbps and spending most of the time at 52Mbps instead of the 117 Mbps or higher level seen in the screenshot. I'm getting fewer of the tests to come up with acceptable speed levels. This is also happening after going back to the original settings I had posted. Going to need more information about the environment that you're in. Is your 3500 in a vertical position? Assuming it came with a stand. Do you have a wireless phone? Are you in a heavy residential area surrounded by apartments? What type of construction is the building that you're in? Concrete structure? Any other physical information? While testing do you only have one device connected to the router? There's something about the environment that you're in that's having an effect on wireless.
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Dec 2, 2012 19:35
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Powerful Two-Hander posted:Can anyone recommend a PC wireless card that isnt a total piece of poo poo? I've got a Cisco/Linksys WMP600N and it's hopeless - gets worse reception than an adroid phone in the same location in the house, drops connection randomly for a few seconds and somehow manages to cause stuttering on the rest of the machine when it's in use (seriously, I get mouse input stuttering on a core i5, that shouldn't happen). http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833106135
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Dec 2, 2012 21:46
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Devian666 posted:Going to need more information about the environment that you're in. Sure. Thanks for the help. Yes it's vertical and on the stand. We have no land line phones. The block I live on is a row of what I guess would sort of be like townhomes. Each entrance on the street goes to two apartments on top of each other. We're in about the middle of the block. I think it's wood and is older. My rental insurance agent asked me I thought it was built and I didn't really have an answer. Probably 1950s. I have an 8 port switch plugged into one of the switch ports on the 3500. That switch has one cable running across the house to the other router acting as the gateway. It also has cables to my desktop, 360, PS3, HTPC, and file server.
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Dec 2, 2012 22:05
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The most likely thing is that one or more of the households in your block are making GBS threads all over the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Normally Netgears are good for doing that to neighbours. Maybe it's time to step up the output power a little.
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Dec 2, 2012 22:26
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Devian666 posted:The most likely thing is that one or more of the households in your block are making GBS threads all over the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Normally Netgears are good for doing that to neighbours. Maybe it's time to step up the output power a little. The channel I'm on is clear, so you must mean with devices other than routers? You're talking about the Transmit Power in my picture above? What should I try setting it to?
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Dec 3, 2012 01:01
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Try setting it to 70 mW. That's the suggested limit so I'm not going to tell you anything other than that. There are probably devices, wireless phones and other stuff making GBS threads up the spectrum. The correct response to their presence is to up the power and jam their signals.
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Dec 3, 2012 01:11
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The Gadfly posted:By the way, for anyone this might help, here's how I finally got the Airport Extreme to stop dropping ports. So through a little research, I found that the SB5101 Motorola cable modem is incapable of NAT and the only reason it uses DHCP is to basically forward the public IP to the router. With this info, and the fact that the router can see the public IP, I knew that the Apple router had to be the problem. Just chiming in on the DHCP on the modem thing. Its been a while since I've had cable, but I remember seeing that on the surfboard I had, while getting a public ip. When the internet would go down and the modem couldn't pull an ip, it would give me a private ip (I think it was somewhere in the 10.* ip ranges). I believe the dhcp is because some isps allow you to get multiple ips (or used to), and just hook up a switch so you get a public ip on each computer. So it gives you a private one via the built in dhcp server so the local network will still work while your internet connection is down.
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Dec 3, 2012 02:44
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TLG James posted:Are the blue wire normal cat5 with just 4 wires being used? I didn't see it at first glance either, but it appears all 8 wires are there. Chemmy, it probably still make more sense to follow TLG's last bit of advice (just grab and terminate both ends of the one cable you need, since it sounds like you only need it for the one room - it may not be elegant but it should work).
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Dec 3, 2012 03:01
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thiazi posted:I didn't see it at first glance either, but it appears all 8 wires are there. I've had these boxes before and that's what I've done in the past. I never figured out what the boxes actually do, they're definitely not switches or hubs. I don't know that I've ever had one that was all hooked up before, usually they only terminate the phone lines (run over Cat 5) to the box but leave the ethernet lines alone. I just stick ends on them and stuff a switch in the box.
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Dec 3, 2012 03:43
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TWC finally decided to start charging our area for a modem rental fee and so I guess I finally need to break down and buy one. What should I be looking at? I know I need DOCSIS 3.0 but is there anything else I should be looking at? I will need at least 4 Ethernet ports.. This guy is on sale on Amazon right now: Motorola SBG6580 $126.68 http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-Gateway-SBG6580-Wireless/dp/B0040IUI46
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Dec 3, 2012 14:20
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fyallm posted:TWC finally decided to start charging our area for a modem rental fee and so I guess I finally need to break down and buy one. What should I be looking at? I know I need DOCSIS 3.0 but is there anything else I should be looking at? I will need at least 4 Ethernet ports.. Many networking nerds in this thread, including yours truly, will recommend you get a separate modem and router, since modem/router combos tend to suck in various ways. My recommendation is a Surfboard 6121, as it's a popular, well-supported and stable modem. See the OP for router recommendations.
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Dec 3, 2012 16:58
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SamDabbers posted:Many networking nerds in this thread, including yours truly, will recommend you get a separate modem and router, since modem/router combos tend to suck in various ways. My recommendation is a Surfboard 6121, as it's a popular, well-supported and stable modem. See the OP for router recommendations. Hum alright would the 6121 and a RT-N be a decent setup? I really need to be wired for my xbox and gaming PC.
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Dec 3, 2012 18:06
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fyallm posted:Hum alright would the 6121 and a RT-N be a decent setup? I really need to be wired for my xbox and gaming PC. If you mean the RT-N16 listed in the OP, then yeah, those two should work well together.
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Dec 3, 2012 19:41
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TLG James posted:Are the blue wire normal cat5 with just 4 wires being used? Bought an RJ-45 crimper and got to work last night. Not done yet but thanks for taking a look, I appreciate it.
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Dec 3, 2012 19:45
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