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Hydrolith posted:No disrespect to Grandmaster Reinhardt, but... why play with only your first three fingers like that? The answer is; because you've got to use everything you've got.
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Dec 3, 2012 08:01
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Salt Fish posted:The answer is; because you've got to use everything you've got.  You learn something new every day.
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Dec 3, 2012 08:23
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appropriatemetaphor posted:Yeah that does sound better, why does the stupid b stick out so much? I would imagine it's because in most standard chord shapes the interval between the top two notes is no larger than a 4th, but in the normal G shape it's suddenly a big old minor 6th.
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Dec 3, 2012 13:09
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Going back to the wood thing for me it's always come down much more to feel than to tone (talking here about fretboard material). I have 3 guitars right now and all of them have ebony fretboards - I don't know if I'm crazy or what, but ebony always feels "smoother" and "easier" and (oh god) "faster." I really don't like rosewood for some reason having owned two RW fretboard guitars and have passed up a really good deal on a nice Brazilian RW fretboard guitar because I didnt like the feel. I get along well with maple as it's similar feeling to ebony but for me personally fretboard biggest things I look at when considering a new guitar and I would actually probably rank that more important than back/sides or body/cap wood selection. So yeah, I've come to accept that my ears are not nearly as advanced as a lot of people on Youtube, and just go for what is most comfortable and then try and work on my tone through my fingers and a huge part of that is fretboard feel (I'm going to stay away from the whole neck shape conversation).
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Dec 3, 2012 14:13
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How much would a fret dress cost on a Taylor 214ce? How about a fret dress on a (somewhat) junky but much-loved cheap Rogue 12 string? Trying to do some budgeting and would like a ballpark estimate. At what point does it become a matter of needing an entire re-fret? Some of the ones on the Taylor are pretty worn down, but they are isolated on very particular frets and strings. Like, every guitar I have I wear down the second fret on the B string. Not sure what that's about. Anyway.
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Dec 3, 2012 17:16
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I love the open b nestled into the G chord sometimes... is that a crime!?
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Dec 3, 2012 19:42
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Business Raptor posted:I love the open b nestled into the G chord sometimes... is that a crime!? I'll allow you your b if I can play a C chord with a g on the e string. Don't judge me! Actually, knowing how different shapes/fingerings will flavor a chord is really useful. Ideally you would know which to play to suit the song, the mood, and the tone of whatever other instruments you're playing with. The only way to learn that is experience and experimentation (and ideally a good grasp of theory).
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Dec 3, 2012 21:32
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seigfox posted:Actually, knowing how different shapes/fingerings will flavor a chord is really useful. Ideally you would know which to play to suit the song, the mood, and the tone of whatever other instruments you're playing with. The only way to learn that is experience and experimentation (and ideally a good grasp of theory). Exactly, I've written pieces that even transition between the two of them throughout the song to achieve a certain flavour.
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Dec 3, 2012 21:59
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Bolek posted:Hello guitar thread. I want to know why people still agonize over the type of wood that goes into their electric guitar bodies and fretboards? Why the size of their headstock matters. Why the size of their frets matters? In general, why is there so much superstitious nonsense that floats around musicians in 2012? Or do I read too many guitar reviews? The best is when you start looking into fretboard radius, neck shapes (50s style Gibson, 61 style Gibson, Ibanez Wizard), etc. Fret wiring affects how you fret the actual string and too much pressure could play the note sharp. I had an archtop that sounded great but the neck was a very defined D but also very narrow. Great for small hands and rhythm. I can't play old school 7.5 radius Fenders. I find it hard to fret certain notes and chords. quote:How much would a fret dress cost on a Taylor 214ce? How about a fret dress on a (somewhat) junky but much-loved cheap Rogue 12 string? Trying to do some budgeting and would like a ballpark estimate. Either GC or another mom and pop around here will do them for approx 200$. quote:At what point does it become a matter of needing an entire re-fret? When it sounds band, is difficult to play, and you think you run the risk of doing damage to the fretboard.
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Dec 4, 2012 06:55
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Zuhzuhzombie!! posted:The best is when you start looking into fretboard radius, neck shapes (50s style Gibson, 61 style Gibson, Ibanez Wizard), etc. Oh man it's annoying. My friend's dad (same guy that showed me the Jazz III) takes measuring calipers with him when he shops for guitars so he can get something with a similar neck shape. Back in high school I thought this was the most kooky thing but now I'm all like "poo poo I gotta start doing that." Though keep in mind this is a guy who loves Les Pauls so much that the custom Jackson he once owned had a selector switch on the upper horn like where a LP has it. It was the weirdest thing to me and I wanted it so badly.
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Dec 4, 2012 13:37
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Francostein posted:Oh man it's annoying. My friend's dad (same guy that showed me the Jazz III) takes measuring calipers with him when he shops for guitars so he can get something with a similar neck shape. Back in high school I thought this was the most kooky thing but now I'm all like "poo poo I gotta start doing that." Though keep in mind this is a guy who loves Les Pauls so much that the custom Jackson he once owned had a selector switch on the upper horn like where a LP has it. It was the weirdest thing to me and I wanted it so badly. Zuhzuhzombie!! posted:The best is when you start looking into fretboard radius, neck shapes (50s style Gibson, 61 style Gibson, Ibanez Wizard), etc. I could be convinced that body material doesn't make a difference but are you two now trying to say that neck shape doesn't matter?
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Dec 4, 2012 14:39
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Does this body-material debate cover only electric guitars, or is the theory that body-material doesn't even make a difference for acoustic guitars either? Because that would seem really counter-intuitive.
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Dec 4, 2012 16:04
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Captain Mediocre posted:Does this body-material debate cover only electric guitars, or is the theory that body-material doesn't even make a difference for acoustic guitars either? Because that would seem really counter-intuitive. It definately matters, but probably not to the extent that some people claim considering Taylor made a pretty decent guitar out of old pallets.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4wxutbs8ZU the pallet guitar comes in at aprox 1:35.
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Dec 4, 2012 17:22
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HollisBrown posted:I could be convinced that body material doesn't make a difference but are you two now trying to say that neck shape doesn't matter? No no no no no, I'm not saying that it doesn't matter. It really does make a difference but getting all your guitars to .01mm difference is just silly.
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Dec 4, 2012 18:28
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It's hereeeeeeeee  Damage report on the Schecter: The pickup ring on the neck pickup is broke, but the pickup is fine; however, the EMG that's in the bridge isn't wired right; when I toggle the switch to the right it's a really fuzzy, low drive sound instead of, well, an EMG. Still, could be worse; the body is in EXCELLENT condition and the strings that came on it are serviceable, although I bought a spare set anyway to replace when they get here. I'll see if I can't fix the EMG myself, although I might have to get it fixed in a shop. 300 bucks was definitely a good buy; glad I own it.
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Dec 5, 2012 03:44
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Make sure the pots are 1meg, check the battery, etc etc
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Dec 5, 2012 04:34
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HollisBrown posted:I could be convinced that body material doesn't make a difference but are you two now trying to say that neck shape doesn't matter? No, I take neck considerations pretty serious.
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Dec 5, 2012 05:21
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I've been offered $150 in Christmas bucks, and since I can't think of anything better to do, it's time to get to work on a new guitar design. This year, the theme is SURF. The subject, however, is decidedly NOT very surfy. The Subject In Question Image courtesy of GIS Fender Telecaster Deluxe 2004 Reissue, manufactured in Mexico Uses AlNiCo humbucker pickups, 3-way switch and four control knobs, more typical of Gibsons CBS-ownership era Strat headstock, pretty maple 21-fret neck with nitrocellulose finish and the Fender micro-tilt adjustment system Hard tail bridge Replaced 250k tone and volume pots with 500k pots Bright Ideas ~In order of least important to most~ Replacing the skirted knobs with Telecaster knobs Sanding down the body and repainting it in seafoam green Installing push-pull pots and using the "Jimmy Page" wiring system to allow the humbuckers to simulate single coils, to get that surf tone Replacing the black 3-ply pickguard with a pearloid pickguard (I can pick one up for $30 right now and I really should replace the screws in my current pickguard, which are all rusty, so this is a good one) Installing a tremelo system One of the most important modifications on my mind, right now, and the most expensive. From what I've researched, my best bet would be with Stetsbar, but their chrome hard tail system will run nearly $250! I'm hoping some of you guys could help me get my head around this, as I'll be turning my first electric guitar, essentially, into a Frankencaster; although there isn't much stigma to tearing into a Meximade reissue guitar. Mind you, this thing has seen over 6 years of experience now, and the last two have been particularly heavy on gigging. Parts recommendations that will fit the $150 budget better, or any other advice, would be welcome. EDIT: I am aware that there were later reissues of this guitar WITH a floating tremelo system already installed, courtesy of Fender. I am also aware that there are more current reissues of this guitar, manufactured in California, with awesome surfy paint jobs. It's a real bummer, but they'd all be too expensive even if I traded the guitar in. Jeff Goldblum fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Dec 6, 2012 |
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Dec 6, 2012 05:47
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Some tips: if you end up replacing those pickups, I'm fairly sure they're supposed to have the dimensions of the classic wide range buckers, so they're going to be a bit bigger than normal ones. And also, if you replace them, go for humbuckers that are fairly hot, lower output ones can split nicely, but the output from the split coil is going to be lower than an actual single coil so it won't quite sound as good. That's just my opinion though. As far as trems go, that might be a little more ambitious. 250 is for a stetsbar is probably the cheapest it's going to get to get a trem going on there. edit: While we're on the topic of Teles can anyone recommend a kinda...modern tele? I want something with a flatter fretboard radius, not too picky about necks as long as it's not a really chunky one. muike fucked around with this message at 06:31 on Dec 6, 2012 |
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Dec 6, 2012 05:53
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Go more Telestein, and just put a Mustang trem on it. Also HB sized P90s, and Fiesta Red.
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Dec 6, 2012 07:02
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I have a question that I feel really stupid asking but I need the answer.. What does it mean in tab when a note is in parentheses? ie: (7)
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Dec 6, 2012 07:26
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Can be a few different things. Probably a bend or a grace note.
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Dec 6, 2012 07:30
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Anyone know of any software that can attempt to notate or tab an audio track? I've got some old recordings of things I did years ago that I've been fumbling through and would like to add to or try re recording, but I can't for the life of me remember how to play any of it.
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Dec 6, 2012 08:11
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Clitch posted:Go more Telestein, and just put a Mustang trem on it. EDIT: Found the chambering. Mustang trem looks cool, but it's a little out of my hands unless its an inexpensive luthier job? If I can get the parts and installment all under $150 that would be golden, especially since it looks like the parts aren't THAT high up on greedBay. And, I do still have some credit against a friend who is works professionally as a guitar tech... Jeff Goldblum fucked around with this message at 08:32 on Dec 6, 2012 |
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Dec 6, 2012 08:22
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Maybe a Bigsby for the trem? It's probably going to run you about $150 just for the trem itself. The B5 style is what would normally be found on a Tele, requires no routing. If repainting do a matching headstock for maximum surf flavor. That's going to require a replacement decal as well.
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Dec 6, 2012 16:34
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Yeah, how about a nice cheap Xtrem? Very stable. Lemme see. You're going to need a good nut too. Got a bone nut on it? http://store.guitarfetish.com/Xtrem-Top-Mounte-Vibrato-Roller-Bridge-Combo-Chrome-Finish-_p_4417.html   Mmm, but that's not a humbucker, is it. Shouldn't be a big deal, the roller bridge is removable from the mounting plate.  Just get a top mount and stick one on the other. http://store.guitarfetish.com/Fender-Style-Bridges_c_2.html Or just drill holes in the plate you have. Or just keep your existing. Still nice and cheap. http://store.guitarfetish.com/Guitar-Knobs_c_23.html Have some knobs. Split shaft pots or normal pots?
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Dec 6, 2012 18:17
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Jeff Goldblum posted:Installing a tremelo system One of the most important modifications on my mind, right now, and the most expensive. From what I've researched, my best bet would be with Stetsbar, but their chrome hard tail system will run nearly $250! Although we may be in very distant waters it seems we are in similar boats. I may be getting a Schecter Hellraiser C-1 for the holiday season and it's actually a steal at $400 with minimal use - there's just a small lovely hole drilled into the lower horn as the previous axe-master was a lefty. Anyway it has everything I'm looking for in a guitar at the moment save the tremolo. I've heard it can get upwards of $400 dollars to install something suitable, but is there anything out there that can match the tones of a Floyd Rose for maybe a lower installation cost?
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Dec 6, 2012 20:19
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Business Raptor posted:Although we may be in very distant waters it seems we are in similar boats. I may be getting a Schecter Hellraiser C-1 for the holiday season and it's actually a steal at $400 with minimal use - there's just a small lovely hole drilled into the lower horn as the previous axe-master was a lefty. There's not really any way around doing some very serious mods to that guitar to install anything approaching a FR system. Any tremolo system except Bigsby and Bigsby knockoffs require a big routed out cavity under the bridge and on the back of the guitar.
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Dec 6, 2012 20:56
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^^^ I guess my dive-bombing will have to wait, this guitar is just barely too good to pass up. Thanks for the quick feed back.
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Dec 6, 2012 21:08
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If you gotta have sick-rear end nastywhack divebombs without a floyd you might as well try a digitech whammy, a pedal that is very cool in its own way.
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Dec 6, 2012 21:18
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I searched the last couple pages and did not find much about tuners. I'm in the market for one, ideally software based. Basically I use my guitar with a direct input (the rocksmith cable) and would like something that would let me switch to different tunings easily, as I'm getting into metal. I guess I could get a hardware tuner but I don't know much about them. So basically I tried a few of each but everything seems to kinda suck. What are some good tuners?
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Dec 6, 2012 23:08
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For twelve bucks, you can't go wrong with a Snark SN-2, in red. http://www.amazon.com/Snark-Instrument-Clip-On-Chromatic-Tuner/dp/B003VWKPHC/ref=sr_1_1 Works better than some pedal tuners, doesn't mess with your setup at all.
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Dec 7, 2012 00:09
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Korg makes some decent tuners and TC is another brand to see, check out http://www.sweetwater.com/c938--Guitar_Tuners and see what's sorta in your price range. Oh and a cent is a unit of measurement for tuners. So the lower the cent range, the more accurate and therefore better quality a tuner. +/- 1 cent is a decent range for a cheap tuner. I've never used a clip on tuner so I have no idea about them but they seem too gimmicky/kooky for me.
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Dec 7, 2012 00:34
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Warcabbit posted:For twelve bucks, you can't go wrong with a Snark SN-2, in red. Why does everyone mention that the red ones are the best?
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Dec 7, 2012 00:37
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Warcabbit posted:For twelve bucks, you can't go wrong with a Snark SN-2, in red. Seconded. I've had mine for over a year now and the battery is just now starting to die. Peterson makes a software based tuner, but it is waaayyyy more than a snark would be. e: HollisBrown posted:Why does everyone mention that the red ones are the best? Thumposaurus fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Dec 7, 2012 |
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Dec 7, 2012 00:39
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Oh that's awesome, I always wanted one of those but I didn't think they'd have advanced tuning features. Getting it in red (which is the color of my guitar  )
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Dec 7, 2012 00:51
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HollisBrown posted:Why does everyone mention that the red ones are the best? More versatile than the blue ones. The SN-1 is really only for guitar and bass, while the SN-2 can tune pretty much anything. My son uses his SN-2 for literally every instrument he plays - guitar, bass (electric and upright), violin, trombone, tuba, and whatever the hell else he's learned to play recently when my back was turned for 5 seconds. They're amazing little devices for the price.
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Dec 7, 2012 00:59
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Acid Reflux posted:More versatile than the blue ones. The SN-1 is really only for guitar and bass, while the SN-2 can tune pretty much anything. My son uses his SN-2 for literally every instrument he plays - guitar, bass (electric and upright), violin, trombone, tuba, and whatever the hell else he's learned to play recently when my back was turned for 5 seconds. They're amazing little devices for the price. Ah I thought they were all the same.
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Dec 7, 2012 01:02
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The blue one has a capo feature for transposing, which I guess could be useful if you use a capo a lot(I don't). I've clipped the red one on my amp cabinet while using my Theremin and it reads the notes perfectly.
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Dec 7, 2012 01:07
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The black one is even faster, but doesn't have the mic. Theoretically, they all have a transpose feature, but I've never bothered to figure out how it works. Manual for SN1 and 2 http://www.evetsusa.com/snarktuners/images/pdf/SN1_SN2.pdf quote:POWER UP & PITCH CALIBRATION http://www.evetsusa.com/snarktuners/images/pdf/SN8.pdf Warcabbit fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Dec 7, 2012 |
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Dec 7, 2012 01:16
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