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I drive a 2002 Audi TT Quattro ALMS. The brake pad light came on recently, and after calling a local garage, he's quoting me $500-$600, and I'm pretty sure he said that was only for front or rear (not both.) I've heard pads + rotors aren't that difficult to replace yourself, and I'm in a position where saving a $100 would be pretty great. I've never done this before though, so I need some handholding to make sure I get the right parts. I found a recommendation (http://www.audiforum.ca/a6-c5-typ-4b-1997%962004-80/brake-pad-review-65207/) that makes it seem like the EBC RedStuff pads are a great way to go. I found Rear (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KE96VU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) and Front (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CGVPR4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) pads. It looks like it's about $160 for all the pads I need for both front and rear, correct? I don't really know what I'm looking at for rotors though. I picked these (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EPX2UG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) and these (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028093DK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER). Is disc diameter something that has to match perfectly to fit my car, or is it the type of thing that's just "the bigger the diameter the better?" I'm looking for the cheapest reasonable rotors I can get. I've put like 9k miles on in 18 months, so I'm not doing any excessive driving. I haven't ordered anything yet, I just added them to my cart. If you guys tell me those parts are good choices, I'll go ahead and buy them now along with a new lift and a pair of jack stands. The Wonder Weapon fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Nov 29, 2012 |
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Nov 29, 2012 20:44
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If you have a few brain cells to rub together, replacing disc and pads is a really easy job. But, and here's the fun part. VAG just loves to use special tools to attach this poo poo. When I had to have my rear hubs replaced, it took an extra day because they didn't have the right tool to remove the caliper bolts. So you'd be best served to get under and make sure you have everything you'll need to do the job before pulling poo poo apart.
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Nov 29, 2012 23:17
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veedubfreak posted:If you have a few brain cells to rub together, replacing disc and pads is a really easy job. But, and here's the fun part. VAG just loves to use special tools to attach this poo poo. When I had to have my rear hubs replaced, it took an extra day because they didn't have the right tool to remove the caliper bolts. So you'd be best served to get under and make sure you have everything you'll need to do the job before pulling poo poo apart. I seriously have an impact-rated triple square set (I don't have an impact tool) that I'll probably never use, just in case.
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Nov 30, 2012 04:05
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veedubfreak posted:If you have a few brain cells to rub together, replacing disc and pads is a really easy job. But, and here's the fun part. VAG just loves to use special tools to attach this poo poo. When I had to have my rear hubs replaced, it took an extra day because they didn't have the right tool to remove the caliper bolts. So you'd be best served to get under and make sure you have everything you'll need to do the job before pulling poo poo apart. Ok, I'll check that tomorrow or this weekend. Are the parts I picked out above good choices?
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Nov 30, 2012 07:14
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PhancyPants posted:Diesel Owners: This is exactly why I sold my TDI... sorry I don't have more encouraging words. One tip I read that you may or may not already know - you can cycle the glow plugs a few times before starting the car to make them really hot. I usually did 3 times.
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Nov 30, 2012 15:23
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Kashwashwa posted:This is exactly why I sold my TDI... sorry I don't have more encouraging words. One tip I read that you may or may not already know - you can cycle the glow plugs a few times before starting the car to make them really hot. I usually did 3 times. It seems to be running pretty well with the new battery.
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Nov 30, 2012 16:45
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Anybody have a line on high pressure steering lines for an Audi 200 that don't cost $500?
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Dec 4, 2012 19:21
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Ok, I'll check that tomorrow or this weekend. Are the parts I picked out above good choices? You will need a 7mm hex/allen socket, prybar/beefy screwdriver to push the piston in a little to start and to remove the spring clamp, a c-clamp or large pliers to depress the pistons the rest of the way, a 21mm socket for caliper carrier, and a big hammer to knock the rotor off the hub. Here is a PDF from Audi's ElsaWeb detailing the process, its easy. https://dl.dropbox.com/u/52001/audittbrakespdf.pdf Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Dec 4, 2012 |
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Dec 4, 2012 23:19
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You guys know anything about 1988 16v sciroccos? http://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/3431665040.html This one is in my area but the price has me a little suspicious, what should i look out for if i go check it out? Are sciroccos even any good?
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Dec 7, 2012 08:29
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I have a 2012 Jetta TDI(~2200 miles) that I've owned for a couple months and it seems to have a really hard shift between 2nd and 1st when I'm coasting to slow down or braking. It jerks enough that it is noticeable to passengers. Is this normal? I've never owned a diesel before and I'm wondering if it is some sort of engine braking or something? The 2nd to 1st shift is the only gear that noticeable has this problem, and the problem isn't present when accelerating.
Virigoth fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Dec 7, 2012 |
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Dec 7, 2012 15:32
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Virigoth posted:I have a 2012 Jetta TDI(~2200 miles) that I've owned for a couple months and it seems to have a really hard shift between 2nd and 1st when I'm coasting to slow down or braking. It jerks enough that it is noticeable to passengers. Is this normal? I've never owned a diesel before and I'm wondering if it is some sort of engine braking or something? The 2nd to 1st shift is the only gear that noticeable has this problem, and the problem isn't present when accelerating.
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Dec 7, 2012 15:48
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Virigoth posted:I have a 2012 Jetta TDI(~2200 miles) that I've owned for a couple months and it seems to have a really hard shift between 2nd and 1st when I'm coasting to slow down or braking. It jerks enough that it is noticeable to passengers. Is this normal? I've never owned a diesel before and I'm wondering if it is some sort of engine braking or something? The 2nd to 1st shift is the only gear that noticeable has this problem, and the problem isn't present when accelerating. I assume it's dsg? If so that's the issue. Try checking if there is an update, but I know that the software for the DSG is lovely on the TDI. Also, if you notice a slight hiccup with power around 1900rpms while accelerating in first, that's normal, it's an issue with the EGR and well documented, but VW refuses to acknowledge it. Once again, for all your TDI questions check out https://www.tdiclub.com. Also, the TDI doesn't engine brake for poo poo, so it's not that. Oh also, the DSG is an adaptive transmission, so it'll get better as you drive. It "learns" your driving style.
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Dec 7, 2012 15:55
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veedubfreak posted:I assume it's dsg? If so that's the issue. Try checking if there is an update, but I know that the software for the DSG is lovely on the TDI. Also, if you notice a slight hiccup with power around 1900rpms while accelerating in first, that's normal, it's an issue with the EGR and well documented, but VW refuses to acknowledge it. Once again, for all your TDI questions check out https://www.tdiclub.com. Thanks for the help, I've got my 60 day service coming up soon so I'll be sure and ask about that.
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Dec 7, 2012 16:08
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Goodtime Pancreas posted:You guys know anything about 1988 16v sciroccos? http://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/3431665040.html This one is in my area but the price has me a little suspicious, what should i look out for if i go check it out? Are sciroccos even any good? $1500 bucks for a wicked ton of fun. There is no way in hell hes getting 46mpg out of it though, more like 30-35. Just check for rust under the hood around the shock towers and underneath like any other car. Scirocco specific parts are sometimes a pain to find but he says the interior is good so thats a start. Those real quarter windows and seals are impossible to find so you will have to hoard them when you come across them. There was a recall on the gas tank and lift pump so see if the PO had those done. Parts for the fuel injection system can be expensive but if the car hasnt sat for any length of time and has always been driven there shouldnt be a problem. If there is its easy to diagnose with a few common tools and a step-by-step from the Bentley shop manual. Oh yea, check for oil under the distributor cap, there is a seal that can leak there and ruin the ignition module and cause problems later on. Its a good car if you like hoarding weird parts for it and tinkering here and there. Keep up on the timing belt and oil and it will run forever.
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Dec 7, 2012 18:14
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Following up on an earlier post, I'm driving up from philly to see this car tomorrow. If all goes well I hope to drive back with it. Should I look for anything in particular? The carfax says it has been in two accidents that the dealer claims were "minor incidents". Should this influence the price negotiation? It's about 1k above kbb but is a few thousand below similar cars in the area. Thanks! http://www.thepremierpreowned.com/preowned/2004-Audi-S4-New-York-WAUPL58E34A091040.htm The carfax is viewable there as well.
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Dec 7, 2012 22:02
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You should walk away. 
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Dec 8, 2012 05:45
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My 98 Jetta TDI is having a hard time starting cold lately. It's only started since things have gotten cold out, but I'm not sure that's related. It doesn't seem to be necessarily worse on really cold days. Anyway, it just cranks for a few seconds before it fires, and then is pretty rough as it's just starting up. After that it's fine. If I shut it down and then start it up again it's fine. I think it's a fueling issue, but I don't know what that would be, since the car runs totally fine and has plenty of power after passing by the hard start. The fuel in the tank is pretty old, at least in that it's probably not winterized. I added a bunch of the white bottle powerserve (I think that's the name) additive. The fuel filter hasn't been changed in probably a bit past the 20k mile mark that it's supposed to be changed at, and I've never drained the water. So those are certainly easy things to work on. The glow plug system on this car is questionable, it used to be blowing the fuse constantly last winter, and then I played with the wires some and it stopped blow fuses, but maybe it stopped blowing fuses because it stopped working. I don't think it's just a glow plug issue though, because it doesn't seem to correlate directly to how cold it is, and from what I remember about not having it work (blown fuse) on days about this cold, the car wouldn't just crank for a few seconds before it started, it would just be really rough as it started almost immediately. Turning the key on and off a few times before starting seems to help, which could be due to either the glow plugs or the fuel pump getting more of a chance to work. The battery is 7+ years old, but it cranks the car at a respectable speed. What do you guys think?
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Dec 8, 2012 07:37
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Opensourcepirate posted:Turning the key on and off a few times before starting seems to help, which could be due to either the glow plugs or the fuel pump getting more of a chance to work. Check the fuel rail pressure after sitting overnight. It's likely to be low/non-existant indicating a failed check valve in the fuel pump.
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Dec 8, 2012 16:18
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Motronic posted:Check the fuel rail pressure after sitting overnight. It's likely to be low/non-existant indicating a failed check valve in the fuel pump. That or, more likely, the transmission position sensor/contact. Had the same problem years ago on a Jetta, and it seems to be quite common.
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Dec 8, 2012 16:28
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Sir Cornelius posted:That or, more likely, the transmission position sensor/contact. Had the same problem years ago on a Jetta, and it seems to be quite common. Are you talking about the crank angle sensor, like they talk about on this page? http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/TDI/TDI_diagnostics.html quote:Another relatively common failure on the TDI diesel is caused by problems with the crank angle sensor. Root causes can be poor electrical connections, water ingress, or dirt contamination - or a combination of all three! The sensor's location, at the bottom of the bell housing, makes it vulnerable to attack from all the usual undesirables. It can also be damaged by ham-fisted mechanics changing starter motors or clutches. This sensor is of the magnetic type and takes its input from the flywheel, each of which denotes a cylinder. I'm also rather smokey if I really get on it, which I was assuming was due to having Sprint 520 nozzles and a RC2. I haven't had any limp mode problems.
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Dec 8, 2012 17:10
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I think it's just a fuel issue. This time I tried starting it as soon as the glow plug light went out, but I gave it a little bit of go-pedal, and it started right up. If there is a bad check valve in the fuel pump, is there anything horribly wrong with me just leaving it as is and always hitting the 'gas' a little when I start it?
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Dec 9, 2012 05:28
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Stupid question - should I be checking the oil level (dipstick) when the car is cold (e.g. hasn't been driven for a day) or after driving it? It's a 2012 GTI. I noticed an oil puddle in my driveway and I'm trying to figure out if it's my car or my wife's car. I checked the oil in the GTI after I drove it around the block (shuffling cars around in the driveway) after it had been sitting outside for a day and it looked low - just under the start of the hatch marks - but after driving it to the store and back, which warmed the car up, the oil level is now showing in the middle of the hatch marks. Also, I've noticed a raspy hiss noise (kind of like a boost leak) if I accelerate moderately when the car isn't fully warmed up. Does the CPU limit the amount of boost in this situation and blows off excess? I haven't noticed the sound once the car is warmed up, even if I floor it. There's only 5000km on the car and I'm being paranoid 
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Dec 10, 2012 00:42
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My understanding on how to check the oil level is that you should warm the car up first, then wait like 5 minutes for the oil to work it's way back down to the pan.
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Dec 10, 2012 17:05
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Checking the oil cold is the way to be sure how much is actually in the pan.
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Dec 10, 2012 17:43
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I'm checking out a lead on a 1987 Audi GT Coupe with 140k miles on it. Has the NA 2.2 5 cylinder and manual transmission (not the Quattro). Has the usual power accessories and even the digital dash. Looks clean and rust free, PO claims it was garaged. Some brief internet searching shows that these are actually pretty reliable, except for the window switch regulators, so I admit I'm tempted. My hope is that it'd be a daily driver, but I admit I don't know a whole lot about Audis in terms of all the costs of ownership. Anyone want to chime in if this is a decent deal for $2,500?
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Dec 10, 2012 19:41
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I'm considering purchasing a new A4 or A5 in the first half of next year but I'm still narrowing down my options. Does the difference between the two come down to more or less just a coupe vs sedan preference on similar chassis? I'll most likely go with a manual transmission since the DSG isn't available on the A4/A5. Is there anything I should be wary of for either model or as an Audi owner? This will be for a daily driver, so I've also looked at 3-series as an alternative, but it doesn't seem like you can actually drive one off the lot for much less than $50k. I'm switching from a 9-year old G35 if that helps as a frame of reference.
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Dec 10, 2012 21:34
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Fleshpeg posted:I'm considering purchasing a new A4 or A5 in the first half of next year but I'm still narrowing down my options. Does the difference between the two come down to more or less just a coupe vs sedan preference on similar chassis? Holy gently caress  Is that fully optioned to hell and back?Are used Audis an option for you? I'm really happy with my 2006 CPO A4, and it was affordable for me to snag right out of school.
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Dec 10, 2012 21:49
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movax posted:Holy gently caress That's a slight exaggeration but I was playing around with the BMW website and just adding a couple options packages to the base 328i pushes MSRP to 45k. It seems like it's about a 5 or 6k price premium over a similar Audi. I'd like to keep this purchase under 40k. I'm a little wary of purchasing a used car since I don't have much experience with doing my own auto repair.
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Dec 10, 2012 22:15
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Fleshpeg posted:I'm a little wary of purchasing a used car since I don't have much experience with doing my own auto repair. That shouldn't be a good reason to be concerned. There are MANY 1,2 and 3 year old low mileage cars that are certified by the manufacturer and under warranty....even extended warranties. Unless you really want a new car and are willing to pay the premium (nothing wrong with that, I've done it once) let someone else take the first big depreciation hit.
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Dec 10, 2012 23:09
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Motronic posted:That shouldn't be a good reason to be concerned. There are MANY 1,2 and 3 year old low mileage cars that are certified by the manufacturer and under warranty....even extended warranties. The Audi CPO warranty is two years after the factory runs out. Going new may give you peace of mind, just knowing the entire vehicle history, but 2 years is one of the best certified warranties that I'm aware of. Also, i can't imagine that they don't use the dual clutch, should be called s-tronic.
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Dec 11, 2012 00:33
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so today i smoked a pumpkin (don't ask) and i ended up dislodging the lamp in the side marker on my 2011 tiguan. i ran out of daylight before i could get a good look at how it's put together, but does anyone have any tips for removing the cover so i can access the actual bulb? for reference, this is the lamp i am referring to:
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Dec 11, 2012 02:17
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Woo, I have a car that fits in a thread now. Maybe this is a dumb question, but I read through the manual and tried a few different things and I sure can't figure out if it's possible... (or what to google to get an answer). I bought a 2013 Jetta GLI recently, and it has keyless entry (but not remote start). I'm loving everything about the car, except that it's started to get cold here, and I can't find a way to leave the thing running to warm up without having to be there. I have two remotes, but I can't seem to: a) Start the car up, take the remote with me and lock it from outside, or b) Start the car up, leave that remote in the glovebox and lock it with the second remote. I guess if there isn't a way to leave the car warming up, at least I can enjoy the fast-warming seats.
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Dec 11, 2012 03:45
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Phuzun posted:Also, i can't imagine that they don't use the dual clutch, should be called s-tronic. I just double-checked and it's only CVT, Tiptronic, or manual for the A4 and Tiptronic or manual for the A5 in the US.
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Dec 11, 2012 04:49
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Shellman posted:Woo, I have a car that fits in a thread now. My 2012 GTI has the Kessy system and I can start the car, then get out and walk away and the car still runs. I haven't tried locking the car after starting it and leaving though. Does the car turn off as soon as you try to lock it?
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Dec 11, 2012 13:53
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tropical posted:My 2012 GTI has the Kessy system and I can start the car, then get out and walk away and the car still runs. I haven't tried locking the car after starting it and leaving though. Does the car turn off as soon as you try to lock it? Nah, it sounds like the GLI behaves the same way, but pressing lock does nothing. Maybe its because this is my first modern car, but I'm a little leery of leaving it running unlocked, even without the key in it.
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Dec 11, 2012 14:03
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Shellman posted:Nah, it sounds like the GLI behaves the same way, but pressing lock does nothing. Maybe its because this is my first modern car, but I'm a little leery of leaving it running unlocked, even without the key in it. Yeah I know the feeling. I've only done it when somebody else has been in the car and I'm running into a store for a sec, or if the car's in my driveway.
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Dec 11, 2012 16:01
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Are you trying to lock it with the door open? VWs will not lock the driver's door if it is open. This is to prevent you from doing something stupid like locking the keys in the car How is the new GLI, I traded in my mk4 GLI right before the new ones came out so that I wouldn't get screwed on tradein value. After driving a hatchback, I don't think I can ever go back to a sedan again.
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Dec 11, 2012 17:14
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Fleshpeg posted:I just double-checked and it's only CVT, Tiptronic, or manual for the A4 and Tiptronic or manual for the A5 in the US. Wow, kind of a let down. I agree, manual is probably the best choice.
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Dec 11, 2012 17:32
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veedubfreak posted:Are you trying to lock it with the door open? VWs will not lock the driver's door if it is open. This is to prevent you from doing something stupid like locking the keys in the car Seems like you can't lock it at ALL from outside if its running-door open or closed. I'm really enjoying it, then again I upgraded from a 98 Taurus. Test drove it and the new GTI before I bought it, they were both hella fun, just seemed like the GLI had more options for the same/lower price.
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Dec 11, 2012 20:31
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Have any of you guys used an iPhone 5 with your MDI cables/GTIs? I'm hoping I can charge/get music to play via the MDI cable. I've tried looking at the golf forums but it seems to be split.
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Dec 13, 2012 01:57
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