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Mario posted:I was going to suggest that the SID might be involved based on the wording in your WIS images. Maybe try removing it to see if the behavior changes? The problem with that on the NG900s (at least) is that the SID sends back the metered wave to the dimmer switch - but only so it dims as well. I decided that I didn't really give a crap; I just needed to see. The lights stayed on for most of the way to store and back. Will investigate more when I have some light and it's not parked in the driveway. I was trying to overcomplicate things by assuming there was a stronger association between the SID and dimmer switch, knowing how SAAB parts are known for their codependency.
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Dec 7, 2012 03:37
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Viggen, anything new on the SAAB ECU shitfuckery? I've got a 2007 9-3 wagon 2.0T and I'm always scared something is going to break and I'll have a turd that would be used to exclusively hold down the driveway.
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Dec 7, 2012 05:58
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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Aeka 2.0 posted:Viggen, anything new on the SAAB ECU shitfuckery? I've got a 2007 9-3 wagon 2.0T and I'm always scared something is going to break and I'll have a turd that would be used to exclusively hold down the driveway. Your car is old enough that ECUs still exist, and you can often buy pre-flashed MapTun (and formerly(not sure if they've ever been available in the US?) Hirsch) pre-flashed units that are already setup to work on your system. The MapTun units were about $700 last year for a stage 2. Worst case, your wallet takes a hit and you get a faster car. Worst case, a $200 eBay find can be SPS'd to your car with a standard Tech2 w/ SAAB PCMCIA card.. Call it a firmware upgrade.  Your best bet regarding parts is hitting up SaabPartsUSA, the 'official' US/Canada distribution point for SAAB Parts AB. Ok, just the Maptun tuners are a bit more expensive now, without the ECU. Of course, their only distribution point in the US is StateofNine, so that's kind of to be expected. Viggen fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Dec 7, 2012 |
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Dec 7, 2012 16:39
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Found the culprit. At some point, someone made an aftermarket stereo attachment which for some reason attached beneath the passenger side footwell. I removed the wires and cleaned all of that up in August - or so I thought. I somehow missed a wire that was nested waaay back and wedged behind several which was tied to the radio dimmer; evidently they never found anywhere to put it, so it was snipped. The electrical tape they had put around it was unwravveling, and it was grounding out occasionally at a very low rate being that there was an inline 5a fuse on it, which was a self-reset. This was enough to completely mess with the PMW signal via pin 2. A snip, a crimp, a heat shield and some heat shrink later, and I'm sure she'll be fine for another 16 years. She better be.
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Dec 7, 2012 21:03
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Viggen posted:Your car is old enough that ECUs still exist, and you can often buy pre-flashed MapTun (and formerly(not sure if they've ever been available in the US?) Hirsch) pre-flashed units that are already setup to work on your system. The MapTun units were about $700 last year for a stage 2. Worst case, your wallet takes a hit and you get a faster car. Thanks, I can rest easy now.
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Dec 7, 2012 22:43
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Aeka 2.0 posted:Thanks, I can rest easy now. No. Sell it to me.. be afraid! Be very afraid! I have a couple grand somewhere.. I think. Viggen fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Dec 7, 2012 |
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Dec 7, 2012 22:47
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Okay so there's a car I was looking at on Autotrader, a 2006 9-3 Sport Combi with what I believe is an Ecotec motor. Low miles on what looks like a trade in to a dealer. Good idea/bad idea?
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Dec 7, 2012 23:30
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Okay so there's a car I was looking at on Autotrader, a 2006 9-3 Sport Combi with what I believe is an Ecotec motor. Low miles on what looks like a trade in to a dealer. Good idea/bad idea? It kinda helps to know the engine. That its' not a 2003 is in your favor, but the 93SS is a weaker platform than the OG-93. Do you know anyone who can run a TIS on it? I can decode the VIN, but no longer have TIS access. If it's the 2.8 Ecotec, it's wedged like hell in there, and I've read reports of heating (and suspension) problems, but otherwise they're generally held in well esteem - other than sometimes squeaky GM plastic. Viggen fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Dec 7, 2012 |
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Dec 7, 2012 23:32
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Viggen posted:No. Sell it to me.. be afraid! Be very afraid! Makes me sad to guess how much this thing is worth now. Paid 15k cash last year before the bankruptcy 35k miles.
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Dec 8, 2012 02:44
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Viggen posted:It kinda helps to know the engine. That its' not a 2003 is in your favor, but the 93SS is a weaker platform than the OG-93. Do you know anyone who can run a TIS on it? I can decode the VIN, but no longer have TIS access. 2.0
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Dec 8, 2012 04:45
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Aeka 2.0 posted:Makes me sad to guess how much this thing is worth now. Paid 15k cash last year before the bankruptcy 35k miles. No poo poo. I feel really bad for the 2011 owners. I still hurt like hell over my 2008 which is worth.. well, something like yours, but a year newer and only 10k miles on it. I had the 2.8 in my head with the Turbo X response earlier in another thread. That would be the LP9. v  vCheck that sucker out, but make drat sure that Dave gives it a onceover if you have ANY question or missing records. I've not always heeded this advice, and thats how I got a 1995 with a blown transmission.
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Dec 8, 2012 16:43
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I'm now looking at a $2,000 Viggen. God help me. E: Quasimodo-update: Finally got email from people I got the NG900 from as a response (forgot the login used for CL), and sent them a new picture. They want the car back. Sorry, but no. This was an at-cost job for someone who really needs a car. You want it back? It'll cost you what I've got in it AND labor. Viggen fucked around with this message at 08:27 on Dec 9, 2012 |
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Dec 9, 2012 08:02
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Well got another broken window roller…. :/
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Dec 11, 2012 18:52
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keykey posted:Well got another broken window roller…. :/ You are replacing them in pairs, aren't you? Ooh, more free poo poo from Sweden, and some DMD!   I have diplomatic sales immunity! <  >
Viggen fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Dec 12, 2012 |
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Dec 11, 2012 22:04
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Merry SAABmas, everyone.  
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Dec 12, 2012 23:57
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Only two? :P
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Dec 13, 2012 02:33
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Isn't two enough? I can't even fit my Christmas tree in the shot! Besides, the rest are dormant under cover, dreaming of Scandinavian things.
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Dec 13, 2012 03:34
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I've been really missing our Saab lately. I wish we had the money to buy another car, we'd probably get another. 
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Dec 13, 2012 05:04
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You can check out any time you like, but you can never leave. 
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Dec 13, 2012 22:41
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Viggen posted:You can check out any time you like, but you can never leave. Hey, to be fair, the only reason we didn't get another Saab was parts availability issues that led to ours being written off and not wanting to get caught in that situation again.
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Dec 13, 2012 23:02
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Faerunner posted:Hey, to be fair, the only reason we didn't get another Saab was parts availability issues that led to ours being written off and not wanting to get caught in that situation again. It'll eventually happen. Parts for your former car are still fairly plentiful (once more).. it's just the newer ones that don't exist.
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Dec 13, 2012 23:22
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Viggen posted:Merry SAABmas, everyone.   
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Dec 16, 2012 02:18
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Mario posted:Early SAABmas gift for myself. 3" Taliaferro downpipe/midpipe to replace the aging stock downpipe. Did you deal with Nick (directly)? I've stopped suggesting him to others because of abhorrent customer service.
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Dec 16, 2012 02:58
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No, didn't need anything custom on this; just ordered from the site. I haven't had any problems with them, but it's disappointing to find out that might be the exception.
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Dec 16, 2012 04:06
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Mario posted:No, didn't need anything custom on this; just ordered from the site. I haven't had any problems with them, but it's disappointing to find out that might be the exception. Yeah. I'd sent several people to Nick (nice guy on the interwebs, btw), and they ended up getting partial orders ("just use your own parts for what was missing" as a response - sometimes valid, sometimes not), several-months-late orders, and the related. He seems to be a great guy, but he really needs someone else handling orders/customer service. Evidently his wife will 'make right', but I just don't tell anyone about GS anymore. I just nod politely and/or roll my eyes depending upon the vision.
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Dec 16, 2012 04:11
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I just bought a 2000 95 Aero, automatic gearbox and 230hp. A "small" change from my 97 Golf with 4 hp and a broken clutch. Mom drove the aero home while i was behind her in the golf, she went for an errand while i drove on to my sisters house. When mom and my sister came home my sister said "you better talk to your mother"... She'd driven it right over som potholes / inverted potholes (when the ground freezes/thaws and ejects the asphalt upwards). Thanks for that mom. The car hadn't even been mine for 2 hours when she hit something and quote "it wasn't a small bang either". I'm not sure what she broke if anything, the "check engine"-light was on when i bought it (i'm not a very clever guy, the car is _fun_ to drive though). Next on the list: 1: Check what the light is warning me about 2: Change fluids, even in the gearbox 3: Check if i can swap the stereo or somehow play mp3 through it 4: Fix the Golf. Didn't think i'd ever own a Saab, my family and i have always been Volvo-people.
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Dec 26, 2012 17:15
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underlig posted:I just bought a 2000 95 Aero, automatic gearbox and 230hp. This is probably not going to be cheap. It may be worth your while to get a cheap ODBII scanner. You make have a DI going out, which will cost a few hundred, or you could have a sludged car on its last days. If the oil light isn't on and doesn't flicker when you give it gas or whip around corners, you may be fine in that respect. Unless it has been removed, there should be a pretty resilient plastic shield beneath the engine, but it would make sense to get under it and have a look around. My guess is that the oil pan got scraped. Check it for seepage and dents.
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Dec 26, 2012 20:16
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I'm fairly certain that my sister's '03 9-5 has cooked a valve/piston. It started vibrating harshly and generally running like dog poo poo last weekend, and I figured that the DIC was on its way out. It was throwing a code for misfire in cylinder #4, so this further suggested to me that the DIC was dying. Today I decided to check the compression, and found that cyl #4 has a total of zero (!) psi of squeeze. Is there a reliable way to check for a blown piston vs. a cooked valve?
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Dec 27, 2012 00:37
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localized posted:Is there a reliable way to check for a blown piston vs. a cooked valve? Take the head off and look?
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Dec 27, 2012 01:15
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Viggen posted:You are replacing them in pairs, aren't you? I didn't but I did buy in pairs, so several months later... I ordered again cuz I forgot where I'd put them. e: oh, I posted this in the Boston thread: quote:Just found out Charles River Saab is moving (read: getting amoebaed) into Boston Volvo Village:
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Dec 27, 2012 11:59
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I just did a compression test after adding some 10w-30 to the cylinder, and got a reading of ~35psi. At this point its safe to say that the rings are blown?
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Dec 27, 2012 17:40
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I'd suggest doing a leakdown. The exhaust is (still) clear and not smokey? I still say 'take the head off'.kimbo305 posted:I didn't but I did buy in pairs, so several months later... I ordered again cuz I forgot where I'd put them. That's the pisser. I did that once. Lasted nearly 6 months. Replaced both this last time, hopefully I won't have to do them for awhile, myself. I bought some of the aftermarket ones, as they were only $2/ea, and they're not known for lasting forever, but we'll see. Anders suggests using the Volvo 3509416 rollers, but I've never seen anyone who actually has. They're square so they don't roll.. I wonder just how well they'd work.
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Dec 27, 2012 19:34
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That is sad about CR SAAB getting amoeba'd into a Volvo dealership. Same thing happened with Village SAAB Acton, though that place sucks and CR SAAB is great. At least they're staying Swedish?
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Dec 27, 2012 21:51
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Viggen posted:This is probably not going to be cheap. It may be worth your while to get a cheap ODBII scanner. You make have a DI going out, which will cost a few hundred, or you could have a sludged car on its last days. If the oil light isn't on and doesn't flicker when you give it gas or whip around corners, you may be fine in that respect. http://www.dtcsearch.com/P1110/ posted:P1110 - Saab Type Powertrain - Manufacturer Controlled DTC - Manufacturer Controlled But what if the problem wasn't the hose, will the light come back after 1-2-3 or 10 times of starting the engine? I also checked if there were old closed codes in the obd2-interface and it says that there are none. Now i wonder if you can close a code and have it not appear again, in other words is there a risk that the old owner just closed a bunch of codes? Sorry for all the questions, i'm really insecure. As for the car, there seems to be something wrong with the speedometer. When i drive onto the highway the meter goes from 50km/h right to 120 in 0.5 seconds with hardly any noice, i often drive too fast because the car is like greased laser. I love it 
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Dec 29, 2012 16:12
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underlig posted:I also checked if there were old closed codes in the obd2-interface and it says that there are none. Now i wonder if you can close a code and have it not appear again, in other words is there a risk that the old owner just closed a bunch of codes? You can reset the ODB codes, but they'll be stored in the system until someone with a Tech2 removes them there. The light will not come back unless it detects another issue. If you aren't making a joke about your lead foot driving skills, watch that - when the ABS goes out, it takes the speedo and tach with it. Congrats on your car and welcome to the 'other Swede' family.
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Dec 29, 2012 19:13
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So I've recently become responsible for a 2000 9-3 with about 135k miles, and it presented me with a P0116 code not long ago (in addition to inconsistent temp gauge readings, usually too low). I did some digging on a couple of SAAB forums, and the advice I found pointed to replacing the coolant temp sensor or the thermostat. Well, the temp sensor didn't make much difference -- things were good for a few trips, but then the problem reappeared. Is a thermostat replacement truly the best next step? And if so, how difficult is it on a base model 2000 9-3? I'm fairly comfortable with routine maintenance tasks after a dozen years working on my trusty old Saturn. My main problem right now is that my parking area is all gravel, and I don't have a good way to raise a car safely. Can I swap the thermostat from the top without making a royal mess of things? With a 2010 9-3 also in the family, I'm looking forward to many years of increasingly random and/or puzzling projects. We found the 2010 in April and had to rescue it...it was a formerly a dealer's loaner car, low mileage, good price. Sure, not at all practical but I saw it as pretty much the last SAAB ever. It had to be mine. I'm stupid that way.
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Dec 29, 2012 21:39
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pjhalifax posted:So I've recently become responsible for a 2000 9-3 with about 135k miles, and it presented me with a P0116 code not long ago (in addition to inconsistent temp gauge readings, usually too low). I would have checked the thermostat before the sender, because they're bullshit. They get to midline and stay there, pretty much until it's too late. Just toss the existing thermostat. They're about $10 and not worth the effort to mess with. The one in my OG 95 was flakey and did similar. Replaced it in 2009.. but it required several different sized sockets to do. It's stupid easy and you don't need to get the car in the air. I seem to recall on this year all you need is a 13mm wrench.. unlike the same generation 95. You'll spill a little coolant in the process if you don't drain it a bit. Don't forget to get the gasket for the thermostat, it's not always included with aftermarket. You're looking for an 89o, OEM part number is: 30577561 Here's a PDF on how to replace the thermostat in a B204, which for all intents and purposes is almost the same exact beast as your B205. I would have taken pictures for you but I'm not digging out the green beast from a half foot of snow.  Viggen fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Dec 29, 2012 |
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Dec 29, 2012 21:47
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Viggen posted:I would have checked the thermostat before the sender, because they're bullshit. They get to midline and stay there, pretty much until it's too late. Just toss the existing thermostat. They're about $10 and not worth the effort to mess with. The one in my OG 95 was flakey and did similar. Replaced it in 2009.. but it required several different sized sockets to do. Random tangent -- went to a drive-in move last night and a late model 9-3 parked right next to me. That might not seem too strange, but I'm in a small town in South Carolina...it's a rare occurrence.
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Dec 30, 2012 14:18
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pjhalifax posted:Random tangent -- went to a drive-in move last night and a late model 9-3 parked right next to me. That might not seem too strange, but I'm in a small town in South Carolina...it's a rare occurrence. Get used to it. Just don't expect the C900 owners to all be nice. The good thing about parking next to another SAAB is that you don't have to worry about door dings. You are also required to wave when you see another SAAB. Orientation for indoctrination begins next week. Viggen fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Dec 30, 2012 |
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Dec 30, 2012 18:35
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2001 9-3 T7 - Will changing my oil up to 5w/50 synthetic be enough to hide what I assume is wear on my main bearings which is causing low oil pressure? Or am I better trying some 10w/40 semi synth? Ever since having the sump dropped and cleaned AND the oil in the autobox changed I get an occasional oil light flash on right turns and very steep hills at low engine revs. I assume that this has always been an issue but the autobox never used to drop below 1500 rpm before due to its ancient oil (which might have been 170k old). The light only flashes when it drops below 1000 revs and I am turning. I've replaced the oil pump and bypass valve, and already changed from 5w/30 to 5w/40 synth - which decreased the frequency of the flashing slightly. It doesnt happen until the engine is warm - which is why i have been working up the 30-40-50 oil scale rather than the 5-10 bit. Is my logic correct?
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Dec 31, 2012 15:34
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