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dakana posted:Put flash on camera. Where would the transmitter go? Have you done this before with a Phottix Odin? I may be confused but I feel like the setup you described wouldn't really help me. Munkaboo fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Dec 13, 2012 |
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Dec 13, 2012 03:29
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Munkaboo posted:Where would the transmitter go? Have you done this before with a Phottix Odin? Serious answer: velcro it on to the side of the camera. Also, sorry about jumping the gun -- I looked at it the web page and it doesn't look like that'd work with the Odin because it doesn't have a PC sync input. I've used a TTL flash on-camera and then connected a trigger to the PC sync port to fire a remote backlight -- but that's only useful if you don't need TTL in the remote. Do you specifically want to transmit TTL information to the remote flash? The issue is getting a way to transmit TTL information from the camera to the trigger without using the hotshoe. dakana fucked around with this message at 03:48 on Dec 13, 2012 |
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Dec 13, 2012 03:43
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dakana posted:Serious answer: velcro it on to the side of the camera. I envisioned something like below, but over radio (to avoid the short range thing). Is that what radiopoppers do?  This review mentioned this, but it would mean I'd need two flashes. http://www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/discuss/72157628093126883/?search=phottix+odin Flash on Camera This may be going a bit beyond the Odins main purpose, but I tried a flash mounted above the camera on a bracket and Odin receiver, and as far as I can tell it works just like the flash was on camera. The AF assist light and zoom also work just as if the flash was on camera. The flash zoom can be set to auto for the flash above camera so that it follows the lense, and the other off camera flashes set to a separate manual zoom setting. The AF assist light would need to stay above the lense, so a bracket that keeps the flash upright in both landscape and portrait would be the ideal. You can get some inexpensive ones of those as well as very professional ones. Maybe this is what I need? http://www.amazon.com/Strato-Wirele...eywords=phottix Munkaboo fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Dec 13, 2012 |
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Dec 13, 2012 03:50
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I swear I remember a website that makes batteries for cameras except their whole deal is they make them that store twice the power. Whenever I Google anything I can think of I just get results for "making my batteries" last longer or "buy name brand AAs", not "here is a site that sells camera specific third-party batteries with twice the juice, bro!" Am I crazy or does such a place exist?
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Dec 13, 2012 06:59
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doctor 7 posted:I swear I remember a website that makes batteries for cameras except their whole deal is they make them that store twice the power. Whenever I Google anything I can think of I just get results for "making my batteries" last longer or "buy name brand AAs", not "here is a site that sells camera specific third-party batteries with twice the juice, bro!" This? http://sterlingtek.com/ I usually buy their stuff on Amazon, but that's the company.
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Dec 13, 2012 08:56
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TheAngryDrunk posted:This? http://sterlingtek.com/
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Dec 13, 2012 09:23
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doctor 7 posted:That's it! Thanks a ton. If you're wondering (maybe helpful if you need to remember for the future) it's because of more mAh (e.g.: 3500 vs 4200, the bigger the number the longer the battery should last).
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Dec 13, 2012 16:23
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Seems like theres no perfect set of cheaper wireless flash triggers. I like the Phottix Odin's, but I want to stick a flash on top of the camera. I like the Phottix Strato II's, but I want to be able to control the remote flash power output, even if it isnt TTL. I like how the hot-shoe is TTL pass through. I like how the Pixel King's you can control the output remotely and they have TTL (supposedly), but I dont like how the hotshoe is not TTL pass through for when you slap a camera on top. Is there anything that combines all three that's affordable? (Transmitter with a hot-shoe that's TTL-enabled, and can control the remote flashses from the camera/TX)
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Dec 13, 2012 16:46
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Hrm. You might be asking too much for cheap triggers. Honestly once you actually start expecting your cheap triggers to work right be flexible, you need to start looking at triggers that don't have entirely questionable QC procedures and translations done by Google Translate. It looks like the FlexTT5 would do what you're looking for.
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Dec 13, 2012 22:37
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dakana posted:Hrm. You might be asking too much for cheap triggers. Honestly once you actually start expecting your cheap triggers to work right be flexible, you need to start looking at triggers that don't have entirely questionable QC procedures and translations done by Google Translate. Not even the flex tt5 can do all that-- if you get the AC3 to adjust your flashes, you can't have a flash on the top of the camera. Would recommend just getting the TT5s though, they're loving awesome.
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Dec 13, 2012 23:45
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Shmoogy posted:Not even the flex tt5 can do all that-- if you get the AC3 to adjust your flashes, you can't have a flash on the top of the camera. The Younguo 622C's seem to be great, as do the Pixel King's. Anyone have experience with those?
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Dec 14, 2012 00:30
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Shmoogy posted:Not even the flex tt5 can do all that-- if you get the AC3 to adjust your flashes, you can't have a flash on the top of the camera. You can't dial in exposure of a remote manual flash from the 580EX II?
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Dec 14, 2012 02:20
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dakana posted:You can't dial in exposure of a remote manual flash from the 580EX II? Don't know- I only have a 430exII and the AC3 right now. Next up is an einstein but that's a while away because of my impulse purchases this year. e: quote:You can use the Canon 580EX II to manually adjust power levels on remote Speedlites mounted on PocketWizard FlexTT5 Tranceivers to precisely control exposure. http://www.pocketwizard.com/inspirations/tutorials/remote_manual_flash/ So yes you can- depending on your needs. I got my AC3 super cheap and have no regrets, especially as you can control different groups easily, which is nice if you're metering and using multiple ones.
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Dec 14, 2012 04:37
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Hi camera goons. Here's my dad's old Minolta SRT101 from the 70s, and a few lenses and stuff. I don't know jack squat about cameras n' poo poo. Is it worth trying to sell this stuff or do I just donate it to a charity shop? Fake edit: or do I just throw it in the trash, I mean that's an option too.      
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Dec 15, 2012 13:38
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I can't stop buying thrift store cameras. The other one I bought I think is a lost cause. This one I found the lens at one thrift store first then found the body at another about an hour away a few days later.  Paid $10 for the lens and $2 for the body. The body is a Canon EOS Elan 7 The lens is a Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Reading up on the manual now. I'm gonna run a roll through it in the next few days and see what comes of it.
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Dec 15, 2012 16:15
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Anyone looking for an upgrade to the Canon kit zoom, I've got a Canon mount Tamron 17-50 (non-VC) for sale in the buy/sell thread. Ya know, like the one in the thread title.
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Dec 15, 2012 18:11
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Mola Yam posted:Hi camera goons. Here's my dad's old Minolta SRT101 from the 70s, and a few lenses and stuff. I don't know jack squat about cameras n' poo poo. Is it worth trying to sell this stuff or do I just donate it to a charity shop? Fake edit: or do I just throw it in the trash, I mean that's an option too.
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Dec 15, 2012 19:44
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Mola Yam posted:Hi camera goons. Here's my dad's old Minolta SRT101 from the 70s, and a few lenses and stuff. I don't know jack squat about cameras n' poo poo. Is it worth trying to sell this stuff or do I just donate it to a charity shop? Fake edit: or do I just throw it in the trash, I mean that's an option too. Ill throw out an offer of $40 plus shipping for the lot.
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Dec 15, 2012 23:00
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I've been doing some research on a new 35mm lens for mainly my Nikon D80, sometimes my Nikon FM2 and hopefully a D600 sometime in the not too distant future. I'll mostly be using it for street and landscape so I'm thinking that high speed is not very important. It seems that the Nikon 35 f2 would be my best bet. And then after that would be the Samyang 35 f1.4. Is the Samyang and Rokinon the same lens under different names? It appears to be the case but they're usually different prices which is throwing me off. Is there something else worth considering, like an AI-S version, or just get the Nikon f2 and call it a day?
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Dec 17, 2012 17:08
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Sigma has a new 35/1.4 lens arriving and it's getting rave reviews. Look out for that one.
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Dec 17, 2012 17:10
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It also looks like that will be 900 dollars and I'm not sure I will get twice the value out of the lens.
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Dec 17, 2012 17:53
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How is it different from the Sigma 30mm f/1.4? Better optics?
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Dec 17, 2012 18:09
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Bubbacub posted:How is it different from the Sigma 30mm f/1.4? Better optics? It's the best performing fast 35, surprisingly. Better then Canons 35 1.4, Zeiss, Sigma, etc.
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Dec 17, 2012 18:09
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Bubbacub posted:How is it different from the Sigma 30mm f/1.4? Better optics? and full frame compatibility.
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Dec 17, 2012 18:10
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FACKER posted:I've been doing some research on a new 35mm lens for mainly my Nikon D80, sometimes my Nikon FM2 and hopefully a D600 sometime in the not too distant future. I'll mostly be using it for street and landscape so I'm thinking that high speed is not very important. It seems that the Nikon 35 f2 would be my best bet. And then after that would be the Samyang 35 f1.4. Is the Samyang and Rokinon the same lens under different names? It appears to be the case but they're usually different prices which is throwing me off. Is there something else worth considering, like an AI-S version, or just get the Nikon f2 and call it a day? Samyang sells their lenses to third parties who rebrand it as Rokinon/Bower/Pro-Optic/Vivitar. This practice used to be a lot more common before we ended up with 4 big lens makers with 80% of the market. The Samyang is Ai-S only, it does not have rabbit ears if that matters to you. The Nikon 35/2 is a good enough lens but it won't match the wide-open performance of the Samyang. Bubbacub posted:How is it different from the Sigma 30mm f/1.4? Better optics? Covers full frame. The 30/1.4 is a scaled-down normal lens for APS-C, while the 35 is a wideangle lens for full frame (that acts like a normal on a crop camera). If you have the money it sounds like the Sigma is a nicer lens than anything else on the market, but the Samyang still outclasses the Canon and Nikon 35/1.4s if you can deal with manual focus.
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Dec 17, 2012 19:47
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Thank you that is very helpful.
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Dec 17, 2012 20:12
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Shmoogy posted:It's the best performing fast 35, surprisingly. Better then Canons 35 1.4, Zeiss, Sigma, etc. To clarify this a bit, the 35/1.4 is the best-performing lens on the market at the moment. From what I know about the 30/1.4, it is a little bit mediocre on the wide-open performance like most fast normal lenses (50/1.4s). The 35/1.4 has a lot more elements, better elements (aspheric, low-dispersion, ultra-low-dispersion), covers full frame, and is correspondingly a lot more expensive.
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Dec 17, 2012 20:17
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I have had the Sigma 35 1.4 for about two weeks now. It's absolutely brilliant so far. The autofocus is excellent which was my main purchasing decision point. The autofocus motor is a *little* slow to move through the focal range but it acquires focus easily in very very dim conditions. It's SHARP as hell. The lens is also heavy as poo poo, about as heavy as my coworker's 24-70 II that he just bought. It's really chunky. It's built very well, solid feel and a sleek exterior, matte black. More attractive than most of Canon's lenses overall. Focus ring is smooth but kinda tight, they always loosen over time. It vingnettes which is a 1 clock fix in lightroom, so who cares. Color rendition is... interesting: Neutral-cold and creates an interesting mood in the photos which I tend to like so far. Did I mention it's sharp? What's most bizarre is how sharp it is wide open, which I didn't expect. So far I'm very impressed and I don't see myself removing it from my camera for months. Here's an example shot I just took to show the color rendition being "interesting".  Noreaster by SirWyeth, on Flickr Also, at F11 and above it really flares in an interesting way, something to watch out for.  Collapse Inward by SirWyeth, on Flickr
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Dec 17, 2012 20:20
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Wyeth posted:I have had the Sigma 35 1.4 for about two weeks now. It's absolutely brilliant so far. Can you comment on the manual-focus ergonomics? Is it focus-by-wire or mechanical? If the latter, is there much slop in the ring? I'd like a fast 35 at some point but it would also get used on manual-focus bodies.
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Dec 17, 2012 20:30
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Paul MaudDib posted:Can you comment on the manual-focus ergonomics? Is it focus-by-wire or mechanical? If the latter, is there much slop in the ring? I'd like a fast 35 at some point but it would also get used on manual-focus bodies. Zero slop. It's tight and smooth, somewhat difficult to turn compared to for instance my Canon 17-40 which is very loose and has slack. Not nearly as awful as the 85 1.2 though  . Very large ergonomic area to hold so you can kinda pick how you are focusing based on hand placement on the lens. I have been zone focusing with it in the last day or so and messing with the manual focus so it's on my mind.
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Dec 17, 2012 20:34
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those look pretty sick, officially interested in that lens now
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Dec 17, 2012 20:40
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Wyeth posted:
I love this one. It's so strange because it actually looks like a screenshot of Half Life 3 more than a real photo. Mesmerizing.
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Dec 17, 2012 20:40
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BonoMan posted:I love this one. It's so strange because it actually looks like a screenshot of Half Life 3 more than a real photo. Mesmerizing. Yeah, I didn't think that was a photo at first.
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Dec 17, 2012 20:46
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Can you post those images before post processing? Please tell me you did some work on those or I'm about to be very poor very soon 
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Dec 17, 2012 21:40
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Google Butt posted:Can you post those images before post processing? I only have the flickr images at the moment (not on my home machine), but yes they are post processed in lightroom. The contrast was adjusted on both, the shot of the lady had one reflection in the 'black' area that I cloned out after taking the shadows down to enhance the dark areas, and I popped the clarity slider a touch on both. I don't recall doing much sharpness adjustment. Also on the shot of the guy in front of the building there is a small adjustment brush dot on his face which brings the exposure up on his face by a stop or so to enhance its' visibility.
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Dec 17, 2012 22:46
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I posted in the Canon thread looking for recommendations on an UWA, but I've reassessed my budget and it doesn't permit a Sigma 8-16mm at the moment. I've been looking at the Sigma 30/1.4 (I love primes) on Flickr, the images I've found are very appealing. How's the AF on it? The Sigma 10-20mm also fits in my budget. I've got a 7d, Tamron 17-50, Canon 70-200 F4/L and a set of c/y Zeiss primes (25, 60, 85, 180). I guess it makes more sense to go with the 10-20 to give me a wider range, but the shots I've seen from the Sigma 30mm have looked really appealing. fake edit: Has anyone done any sales/trade on the Fred Miranda forums?
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Dec 18, 2012 01:14
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What's your budget? I have a Canon 10-22 for sale that I've been trying to get rid of. edit: and a Sigma 30 1.4 as well 1st AD fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Dec 18, 2012 |
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Dec 18, 2012 01:26
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Google Butt posted:I posted in the Canon thread looking for recommendations on an UWA, but I've reassessed my budget and it doesn't permit a Sigma 8-16mm at the moment. I've been looking at the Sigma 30/1.4 (I love primes) on Flickr, the images I've found are very appealing. How's the AF on it? The Sigma 10-20mm also fits in my budget. The Sigma 30 1.4 is pretty okay focus wise, provided you get a good copy. That is one of the lenses which is really a lottery play to try to get a good copy- and you can't really trust sellers through forums because they will just say that it worked fine on their bodies. That being said, I've had nothing but good luck and deals on both Fred Miranda (and POTN, and SA). e: But I don't and wont do any trades that aren't local. I don't trust people to ship things to me while I cross ship. I'd rather take the $30-50 loss in selling and buying with that money.
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Dec 18, 2012 01:29
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So are you looking for a fast normal or an UWA? The cheaper Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6 is quite good, couple of us here have it.
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Dec 20, 2012 18:51
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I updated the first post a bit, checked links to other threads and so. The Olympus thread has apparently gone to archives.
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Dec 20, 2012 20:58
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