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Linedance posted:depends on the bike. Old bikes, yeah, but newer ones with newer electrics should output a higher voltage at idle. You've got ECUs to power and fuel injectors to run, you don't want your battery discharging. My 06 Pegaso put out a solid 14v at idle. I don't know about how much it outputs when idling, but my '09 FZ6 will not charge at idle. I need to ride it for at least 25 minutes before I can shut her off and back on without issue.
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Dec 19, 2012 23:37
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Tamir Lenk posted:I think he gets that, though why would you idle a bike for 45 minutes? I'm afraid I didn't. Just kept it moving between 2 and 3k rpm in the "garage" while I read a book.
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Dec 20, 2012 11:37
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Wootcannon posted:I'm afraid I didn't. Just kept it moving between 2 and 3k rpm in the "garage" while I read a book. Oh, then get a trickle charger. It's much better than risking the engine heat and CO poisoning to spend 45 minutes not charging your battery.
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Dec 20, 2012 16:30
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Tamir Lenk posted:Oh, then get a trickle charger. It's much better than risking the engine heat and CO poisoning to spend 45 minutes not charging your battery. Ach, the garage has no roof, and I don't think cutting off oxygen to my brain would really do much more damage. And yeah, I might get one after christmas. New battery has bike working a charm, and once it stops raining the charger is getting tested.
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Dec 20, 2012 16:54
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Post moved, sorry about the confusion!
Wulframn fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Dec 20, 2012 |
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Dec 20, 2012 17:22
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Wootcannon posted:I'm afraid I didn't. Just kept it moving between 2 and 3k rpm in the "garage" while I read a book. At least you did something productive while draining your battery! Don't fret it, next time just ride around for a bit to charge it up.
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Dec 20, 2012 17:29
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nsaP posted:At least you did something productive while draining your battery! And make sure to ride it at RPMs that will charge (usually >4,000 or so, but YMMV). Putting around the neighborhood below that won't do it.
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Dec 20, 2012 17:35
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Wulframn posted:Oh mighty hive of motorcycle omniscience, I approach you this day that I might beseech your wisdom, that you might shine your favor upon your humble servant! Your question is a valid one, however this is a thread for questions about motorcycles, not gear. The correct thread is here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2393894&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=263 As penance, you must post a 60 minute Youtube video on the importance of proper chain maintenance including but not limited to: checking slack; adjusting; lubing; cleaning; checking for kinks; replacing an old chain; fun uses for used chains. I expect a link within 24 hours. Double spaced. 12pt font. As it is the holiday season, you should wear a Santa hat during the video. Revzilla has the Shark Evoline ST on sale for a bit over $200. http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/shark-evoline-2-st-helmet There's also the Bell Revolver for $200. The reviews are high, but I've seen opinions vary on it. http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/bell-revolver-evo-helmet-solid You've also got the Nolan N90 for $210. Buy this one. My opinion is biased towards Nolan because I love my N43. http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/nolan-n90-n-com-helmet If you really want to go budget, HJC is a decent choice. http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/hjc-is-max-bt-bluetooth-helmet
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Dec 20, 2012 17:50
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Seems to me that all helmets with integrated 'slide-down' visors have a weak spot right in the forehead area. Confirm/deny?
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Dec 20, 2012 17:56
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Pope Mobile posted:Your question is a valid one, however this is a thread for questions about motorcycles, not gear. The correct thread is here: Gah! My bad, and thanks for the correction! I moved the post. Thanks for the links, I am compiling a list of all the suggestions and then considering what I want vs what I can afford. 
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Dec 20, 2012 17:56
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epalm posted:Seems to me that all helmets with integrated 'slide-down' visors have a weak spot right in the forehead area. Deny? It's not like they have less EPS right there, just a little bit of space between the EPS and the shell.
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Dec 20, 2012 18:04
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epalm posted:Seems to me that all helmets with integrated 'slide-down' visors have a weak spot right in the forehead area. Deny whole-heartedly! That's precisely where I got smacked with a branch (http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3220067&pagenumber=24#post410716494) with the force of a bat in full swing and the helmet shows no wear whatsoever. If there is a weakness then it exists along a line that is, literally, negligable or you have to bounce along that line pretty forcefully a couple times in a row.
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Dec 20, 2012 18:08
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Flip down sun shields are pretty great too. For just putting around town I never minded not having one much, I'd use the shaded visor if it was a day ride and clear if I knew I'd be riding at night. In this situation it's just convenience. However I did a few bike trips this year, and for that it pays for itself. There's no way I'd be carrying an extra visor around.
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Dec 20, 2012 18:12
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Odd question - reading through the Haynes to go over the charger testing procedures, and throughout it's emphasised the importance of always connecting the multimeter in series, never in parallel, never connect one to the battery on its own or it'll be hosed. Yet as far as I can tell, the following sentence tells me to do exactly that for checking the regulated output - "Connect a multimeter set to the 0-20 volts DC scale across the terminals of the battery with the positive meter probe to the positive battery terminal and the negative probe to the negative battery terminal [while idling the bike, once that's done you've to increase it slowly to 5,000 RPM]." Now, am I misunderstanding the across the terminals of the battery part or is this a misprint? If it is, what's the correct way to do it?
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Dec 20, 2012 18:31
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In the Haynes testing procedure they are testing current. Which requires the meter to be in series. You are testing voltage so the meter should be in parallel. Just make sure your meter is set to whatever you are measuring before connecting it. If it is set to current and you put it across your battery it will pop a fuse or kill the meter.
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Dec 20, 2012 18:40
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obso posted:In the Haynes testing procedure they are testing current. Which requires the meter to be in series. You are testing voltage so the meter should be in parallel. I was hoping it'd be something like that. God, I really should have attended those electrical engineering classes. Cheers again!
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Dec 20, 2012 18:44
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I'm still very confused on what lubricant I should use for anything non-chain related. I went to Canadian Tire to pick some up but all they had was the spray stuff and the only thing in jars was "anti-seize copper lubricant". is this anti-seize stuff okay to use on things like bearings? I'm so confused 
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Dec 20, 2012 18:59
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never happy posted:I'm still very confused on what lubricant I should use for anything non-chain related. I went to Canadian Tire to pick some up but all they had was the spray stuff and the only thing in jars was "anti-seize copper lubricant". No, copper lubricant is for screws, bolts, etc to stop them seizing. Bearings need grease or oil depending on application, position, etc. Copaslip probably would work okay on bearings but that'd be a really expensive way of doing things.
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Dec 20, 2012 19:03
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I use this poo poo on everything not specifically requiring a special type of fluid. Such as brake components that highly recommend not using anything but brake fluid for lubrication. All purpose white Lithium grease
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Dec 20, 2012 19:19
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never happy posted:I'm still very confused on what lubricant I should use for anything non-chain related. I went to Canadian Tire to pick some up but all they had was the spray stuff and the only thing in jars was "anti-seize copper lubricant". I use white lithium grease for a lot of stuff; sealing up the airbox, cable lube, axle. It comes in squeeze tubes, aerosols, and in tubs. You can find it at a hardware store or auto parts store. For some stuff you can use motor oil too, good for installing o-rings or even use as cable lube.
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Dec 20, 2012 19:25
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clutchpuck posted:I use white lithium grease for a lot of stuff; sealing up the airbox, cable lube, axle. It comes in squeeze tubes, aerosols, and in tubs. You can find it at a hardware store or auto parts store. I use hydraulic fluid (ATF) for my chain and white lithium grease / motor oil for everything else.
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Dec 20, 2012 19:39
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never happy posted:I'm still very confused on what lubricant I should use for anything non-chain related. I went to Canadian Tire to pick some up but all they had was the spray stuff and the only thing in jars was "anti-seize copper lubricant". Canadian Tire should have tons of different greases over by the oil section. Some of them come in little tubs, others only in tubes designed for those caulking gun-style grease guns. I have a thing of lithium grease and a thing of molybdenum grease, both of which I spooned out into a super cheap Princess Auto (canadian Harbor Freight, basically) handheld grease gun for convenience. Moly is somewhat better at high temperatures and pressures (gear interfaces, driveshafts, etc) apparently but lithium works fine for most purposes. Copper anti-seize is specifically used for bolts, screws, pins and other things that you don't want to slip, but also don't want to fuse together. I forget if it's extra good or extra bad for steel-aluminum interfaces...there's supposedly something to do with galvanic corrosion there. It's not what you want as general-purpose grease in any case, though. e: and yeah, for things that just generally need oil I use either 3-in-1 or SAE 10 motor oil (same as the front shocks take). Don't save and re-use old motor oil as a lubricant -- it's full of awful carcinogens. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Dec 20, 2012 |
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Dec 20, 2012 20:40
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Sagebrush posted:e: and yeah, for things that just generally need oil I use either 3-in-1 or SAE 10 motor oil (same as the front shocks take). Don't save and re-use old motor oil as a lubricant -- it's full of awful carcinogens. And it's hard to find a good chemo clinic for your bike.
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Dec 20, 2012 20:50
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Eh, I tend to oil things by dipping my fingers in and spreading it where it belongs. I don't want hand cancer. Also, rubber gloves are for sissies.
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Dec 20, 2012 21:20
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Sagebrush posted:Also, rubber gloves are for sissies. I used to think the opposite until I remembered Gojo Orange. Thanks dad!
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Dec 20, 2012 21:38
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Yeah, I've just used a wee tube of lithium grease from the local bicycle shop on all my fairing screws and it's worked a treat. Very cheap, too.
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Dec 20, 2012 21:51
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Wulframn posted:Gah! My bad, and thanks for the correction! I moved the post. My caberg has one and also a very good SHARP rating. It was also very cheap although what it is in weird 80s monochrome monitor money I have no idea.
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Dec 21, 2012 05:08
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What are the pros/cons of lithium/ion batteries? The marketing dept says -Up to 80% smaller than the stock battery -Up to 10lbs Lighter than the stock battery -Service life of over twice a lead acid in similar conditions -Industry leading 3 year warranty -Designed, developed, and assembled in the USA -Completely “dry” technology so batteries can be mounted in any direction -Non-toxic, recyclable, and can be air shipped -Applications for powersports vehicles from 50cc - 2300cc -Tested extensively by professional race teams -Impact and water resistant -Works with the original equipment charging system -No trickle charger required, loses only 10% of charge over a year of static
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Dec 23, 2012 01:22
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If you are rich, they are awesome. If you're poor, probably not worth it
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Dec 23, 2012 01:58
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I bought a Shorai ultra light battery for my track bike. It's awesome.
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Dec 23, 2012 02:03
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The general gist seems to be, for track bikes and summer toy stuff like that, they're great. For regular bikes, if you need your bike to start without hassle below about 50F, don't bother. They very much do not like the cold.
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Dec 23, 2012 02:24
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Snowdens Secret posted:The general gist seems to be, for track bikes and summer toy stuff like that, they're great. For regular bikes, if you need your bike to start without hassle below about 50F, don't bother. They very much do not like the cold. I live in the great white north, so much for that
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Dec 23, 2012 03:12
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How crap are shinkos? I just bought an sv650 with a shinko rear and a pirelli angel front. For reference, I'm coming off a hornet 919 with pirelli diablo strada's front and rear. Will I suddenly and without warning lowside into oncoming traffic?
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Dec 23, 2012 03:52
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Yeah the light weight batteries are poo poo in cold weather. Shinkos arent great tires but theyre not instant death either. Just ride with respect to available traction and you'll be fine.
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Dec 23, 2012 04:00
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Yeah I roll Shinkos. They're fine if you're not riding hard.
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Dec 23, 2012 04:46
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Slavvy posted:How crap are shinkos? I just bought an sv650 with a shinko rear and a pirelli angel front. For reference, I'm coming off a hornet 919 with pirelli diablo strada's front and rear. Will I suddenly and without warning lowside into oncoming traffic? Shinkos and Maxxis tires (which are I believe the same parent company) are great if you're not on something making a ton of power. I have ran the Maxxis Promaxx tires on all of my vintage street bikes and they never disappoint.
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Dec 23, 2012 05:46
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So I'm curious. In the state of Texas is it actually required for a person to have a Class C before getting an M endorsement or can you get the Class M on it's own? I ask because I know to take the MSF course you need a Class C but the wording on the DPS website is a bit strange. It states you are required to take a safety course but there is a clause on the same page saying that you only take the DPS riding course if you don't take a safety course? Maybe I'm just misreading it.
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Dec 23, 2012 07:58
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Got a link to the page? Seems like most places in North America, you have to write a test at the DMV, then either do a skills test there some time later to get your full license; OR, write a test at the DMV, then take the MSF course, and at the end of the course you do a more or less equivalent version of the skills test and take the certificate to the DMV to get a full license. It's kind of weird that you'd need a general license to take the MSF, though. The places I'm familiar with will give you a probationary license after you've passed the written test; you can then use that license to ride in a restricted set of circumstances to develop your skills, or use it to take the MSF. Nothing other than insurance ever asks if you also have a car license. Then again, I know that some states refer to it as a motorcycle "endorsement", as though it's only a special condition on your main license, like air brakes or whatever. Maybe Texas is one of those.
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Dec 23, 2012 08:04
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http://www.txstate.edu/technology/TrafficSafety/Motorcycle.html http://www.txdps.state.tx.us/DriverLicense/motorcycleLicense.htm The local MSF course and the DPS site. Again, I could be reading this stuff all wrong because my brain derps like that sometimes.
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Dec 23, 2012 08:07
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epalm posted:What are the pros/cons of lithium/ion batteries? I'm really looking forward to lithium ion batteries improving just a bit to be really usable day-to-day; I saw some advertised the other day and the size/weight savings seem awesome but the specs were a bit vague on whether they'd be able to crank larger v-twins.
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Dec 23, 2012 11:29
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