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blindjoe posted:What kind of hybrid ebc/mbc are you running? stock electric and a hallman mbc? No, GM solenoid and $30 eBay voodoo MBC. 10psi spike??! Nothing hilarious about that...
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Dec 23, 2012 01:47
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Blaise posted:No, GM solenoid and $30 eBay voodoo MBC. Ya, Im not sure if its something that should be able to be tuned out or needs something changed. I wondered why the car would start making funny pingy noises as I climbed the hill near my house until I actually watched the boost gauge. I am installing a cat, once that is done Ill try driving it again and if it still does it, Ill get those parts, I guess.
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Dec 23, 2012 02:44
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DreamOn13 posted:The brake feel on my car is terrible. (2006 Saab 9-2x Aero) It seems like I can push the brake about an inch or two before anything happens, so I'd like to remedy that. Also it has stupid slotted rotors and ? pads (red backing plate, so maybe ebc reds? Not sure, PO put them on) that are terrible and shake the steering wheel when braking so I'd like to replace those eventually. The one downside to the 06 Aero is that it didn't get the brake upgrade that the WRX did that year. Maybe think about a swap while you're at it?
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Dec 23, 2012 03:33
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blindjoe posted:Ya, Im not sure if its something that should be able to be tuned out or needs something changed. I wondered why the car would start making funny pingy noises as I climbed the hill near my house until I actually watched the boost gauge. Definitely something that will be tuned out. Going to a freer flowing exhaust will make the car overboost.
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Dec 23, 2012 04:21
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2012 Outback: Got rid of the worthless factory rack over the course of the last week. Took the headliner down and removed nuts from mounting studs on both sides. Some were a little tough to access because of side air bags and bracketry, but really not that bad with a ratcheting wrench. The sunroof hole was really nice for accessing some of those nuts towards the front.  Drilled out the rivet and ground off the stud that were used for mounting the trim piece at the front of both channels. Forgot to take the before picture.  Taped off and applied self leveling seam sealer the entire length of both channels.  Found some molding that fit perfectly and ran it down both sides.   
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Dec 23, 2012 07:54
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Wait how did you take the rack off and then in the final photo end up with a rack on there? It may be late but I think I am missing something 
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Dec 23, 2012 08:30
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Thats an aftermarket setup.
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Dec 23, 2012 08:34
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blindjoe posted:Ya, Im not sure if its something that should be able to be tuned out or needs something changed. I wondered why the car would start making funny pingy noises as I climbed the hill near my house until I actually watched the boost gauge. Sounds like a mechanical issue. What's your setup?
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Dec 23, 2012 18:09
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Holy poo poo, spark plugs suck to do on an EJ25 (well, the driver's side rear). I'm surprised I can type currently since my hands hurt so bad.
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Dec 24, 2012 00:06
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Wohoo, the 2002 is back on the road. Longest rear brake job ever! I cut out the parts of the parking brake backing plate that were rubbing on the rotor. It seemed like the easiest thing to do since there was a huge chunk missing at the bottom anyways due to friction from the old rotors. Smacking the bottom of the brake shoes by the adjuster with a dead blow hammer and socket extension pushed them back towards the backing plate (bunch of rust fell out behind it) and I was able to get the adjuster spring back on without it making contact with the ABS tone ring. So far so good, no nasty noises. Hopefully this will be the last major work I need to do on the car for awhile.
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Dec 24, 2012 01:20
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Blaise posted:Sounds like a mechanical issue. What's your setup? 2003 ej207 with stock twin scroll, cast turbo outlet bolted to a lovely ebay downpipe. No tune to speak of at the moment.
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Dec 24, 2012 01:41
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I picked up my first Subaru last weekend. It's just a four banger sedan though.  70K miles, and I already had to replace the radiator with a Mishimoto. It started seeping at one of the top seams after a zero degree night. Ditched the SPT logo already as well.
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Dec 24, 2012 04:04
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DreamOn13 posted:Holy poo poo, spark plugs suck to do on an EJ25 (well, the driver's side rear). I'm surprised I can type currently since my hands hurt so bad. The right socket and extensions makes all the difference. My spark plug socket has two pivot points so it's pretty easy.
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Dec 24, 2012 06:40
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blindjoe posted:cast turbo outlet bolted to a lovely ebay downpipe. This is why you are over boosting. Get a tune, post haste.
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Dec 24, 2012 07:18
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I think he's working on that. My tuna friend mentioned it.
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Dec 24, 2012 07:51
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blindjoe posted:2003 ej207 with stock twin scroll, cast turbo outlet bolted to a lovely ebay downpipe. Yeah, no tune is a big big problem. Buy a tactrix and don't go into boost until you start tuning! Seriously, awful easy to blow it up that way. You can still run an MBC on that setup tho
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Dec 24, 2012 17:23
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jamal posted:I think he's working on that. My tuna friend mentioned it. I think that guy either died or thinks he is doing it for free. There is a guy on nasioc that does tunes for the 207 swaps that I will try next.
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Dec 24, 2012 18:09
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I am thinking about buying a new Outback. What's the word on the 3.6 liter engines? I don't want to do anything to the car, I just want a plain old car.
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Dec 25, 2012 01:40
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burtonos posted:I am thinking about buying a new Outback. What's the word on the 3.6 liter engines? I don't want to do anything to the car, I just want a plain old car. I've heard nothing bad. That said, the 2.5 with the CVT will get much better fuel economy.
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Dec 25, 2012 06:51
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I'd take the economy hit to avoid any CVT. What garbage they are
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Dec 25, 2012 12:32
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Before tearing my power steering pump out to see where the small leak mentioned a few pages back is I'd like to just add more fluid to it as a band-aid. Do I need to jack it up, add the fluid, and rotate the wheels lock to lock to get out the air or am I good just to add until the reservoir is full? Love my creaky/leaky WRX, wouldn't have it any other way.
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Dec 25, 2012 21:50
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Air tends to work it's way out naturally, but getting the front wheels off the ground does help a bit. If you can find a really snowy/icy spot it might be good enough. Usually for air to get in there has to be a leak between the reservoir and pump, since that is the only spot under vacuum. Replacing that hose plus the o-ring on the inlet fitting usually solves any air problems. The pressure lines will just leak out onto the ground.
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Dec 25, 2012 22:10
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Yeah I'm not having an issue with air like I thought I was, something is very slowly leaking though. I'll have to get some new hoses and replace them, I'm hoping that's the issue, but I think it might be the pump itself due to the PS fluid I find on the front of my block.
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Dec 26, 2012 00:11
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The rack in my beater has been leaking pretty furiously on long trips and I always just top it up. While we're on the topic, is there a list of steering rack ratios on Subarus? I know I can use an 04 FXT rack in my 97 OBS but I dunno which other racks would be faster.
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Dec 26, 2012 00:15
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What should I be using for a liquid gasket when I put the 2 halve of my EJ25 back together?
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Dec 26, 2012 00:48
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Fujibond? I dunno though.
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Dec 26, 2012 01:24
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Yeah that stuff works pretty well. You can just use Permatex gray though. As far as ratios go, everything is pretty much the same. STi is fastest at like 15.2:1 and then most other stuff is more like 16:1. Outbacks are really slow at 19:1 and I wonder how that translates to foresters. Our time attack driver never complained about the steering and actually mentioned he would be okay with less assist. On 295 R-comps with -15 net offset. I'm thinking the best steering mod might just be to reduce assist. Underdrive p/s pulley?
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Dec 26, 2012 02:18
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There's also the Spec C which is 13:1 or something like that.
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Dec 26, 2012 10:05
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jamal posted:Yeah that stuff works pretty well. You can just use Permatex gray though. I don't think effort correlates with pump speed, since they just make whatever pressure and bypass the rest inside the pump. You'd have to adjust the bypass pressure to lower the pump output pressure. I can't find if I asked, but I'm needing new brake pads on the front of my car (99 obs), what is a good choice? It mostly commutes, and a rare bit of spirited driving, but it is totally stock and probably original suspension, so sporty isn't really in its vocabulary. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Dec 26, 2012 |
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Dec 26, 2012 19:12
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The machine shop is looking to verify the specs for the valves on the 99 SOHC. Is this right? Intake .0079 +/- .0008 Exhaust .0098 +/- .0008 Are there any other specs?
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Dec 26, 2012 20:17
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That should be about all you need to worry about. There's a little screw in the rocker to adjust clearance, so you just stick feelers between the lifter and bucket and make turn the screw until it's right. I'll email you some things though.
jamal fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Dec 26, 2012 |
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Dec 26, 2012 21:50
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DJ Commie posted:I don't think effort correlates with pump speed, since they just make whatever pressure and bypass the rest inside the pump. You'd have to adjust the bypass pressure to lower the pump output pressure. I've been really happy with the set of stop-tech street performance pads I got. (02 wrx wagon) They're pretty reasonable on rock auto. toplitzin fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Dec 26, 2012 |
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Dec 26, 2012 23:16
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I have those too. Basically a hawk hps combined with an hp+ for less money. Really good cold bite, deals with a good amount of heat, makes no noise. My only problem is that stoptech doesn't care what they sell for so no dealers can make any money off then. Unfortunately stoptech doesn't make them in that shape and I threw out my stock brakes years ago. But you should be able to find a set of the smaller rs 2-pots for cheap if you wanted to go that way. Otherwise I would just go with the standard centric pads
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Dec 27, 2012 00:51
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I've got a bad case of new subaritus... Every little noise and behavior has me going "what the hell was that?!" "Is it supposed to do that?" "Holy mother of god don't let this thing break!" I'd ask over on nasioc, but I'm afraid 'uncle scotty' might see it. Anyway, here's a mouthful. I just purchased an '05 STi (back a few posts) and it's my first Subaru, and first drive by wire car. 1) Is it normal in everyone else's experience that there's a really noticeable lag between letting off of the throttle and the car actually slowing down? Also, when shifting, it seems like the revs stay where they're at for about half a second between gears. 2) Related to that, it seems to idle really low, like right at the 500 mark on the tach. Probably within the tach's margin of error from the 750RPM specified? 3) Also, since it got super cold recently my parking brake seems to stick. The handle drops like normal but the wheels are still restrained. It breaks free with a noticeable pop if I give it a little nudge forward or reverse. Normal? 4) Finally, what's the consensus on a good cold weather battery? Mine's got some cheap-rear end junker that the dealer put in which is brand new but can hardly turn over the engine the last few mornings (around 0 degrees). I looked and it has like 450 CCA and isn't even the right group. I've used both optima's and exide orbital in the past, and it sounds like the optima's aren't loved as well as they were a few years ago. spipedong fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Dec 27, 2012 |
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Dec 27, 2012 00:54
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All pretty normal. The rev-hang thing has to do with the drive by wire. Part of the solution is to get rid of it but there is some tuning stuff you can do. I'm not a tuner though so I don't know the specifics. I know that when I was working for one we were changing that and the throttle mapping. As far as the idle goes I wouldn't worry too much about it as long as it's smooth. If it's stumbling and almost stalls then there might be a problem. Parking brakes definitely tend to stick in the cold. You could take everything apart and lubricate and clean things but that's a lot of effort for what might not fix anything. Basically any new battery will cut it. If you are into performance stuff it's not a bad idea to go to a lighter dry cell from braille or odyssey. Taking 20-30 pounds of the front end is nice to do. The downside is that they tend to have less capacity.
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Dec 27, 2012 01:32
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Ran across this awesome brat today while picking up stuff, made me feel all  .
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Dec 28, 2012 02:21
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Noticed a torn CV boot today when installing exhaust again. Is it worth it to re-boot? Its a fresh tear. They are $13 on rock auto after shipping. I can't seem to find an axel seal to go with it. What should I be looking for? Is it called transmission output shaft seal? Should I bother? e: I know this is probably said a million times, but is there anything other than extra s that I should put in the transmission? something that is almost as good but easier to get? blindjoe fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Dec 28, 2012 |
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Dec 28, 2012 02:48
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03 WRX just started leaking coolant from the intercooler cap during a long trip. Cap itself and all the hoses are free from damage. Any idea what would be causing this? Also, does Subaru use a proprietary coolant or can I dump some store brand 50/50 in there to top it off?
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Dec 28, 2012 15:17
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Synonamess Botch posted:03 WRX just started leaking coolant from the intercooler cap during a long trip. Cap itself and all the hoses are free from damage. Any idea what would be causing this? Also, does Subaru use a proprietary coolant or can I dump some store brand 50/50 in there to top it off? The rubber seal in the cap cracked most likely. Happened to mine, just buy a new one from a local auto parts store and top off with some green anti-freeze.
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Dec 28, 2012 16:53
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Synonamess Botch posted:03 WRX just started leaking coolant from the intercooler cap during a long trip. Cap itself and all the hoses are free from damage. Any idea what would be causing this? Also, does Subaru use a proprietary coolant or can I dump some store brand 50/50 in there to top it off? My expansion tank had a leaky neck, it is a common problem.
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Dec 28, 2012 18:59
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