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Serious? I've driven around town in our daily driver in sections that weren't quite deep enough to drown the airbox. As have many others. Business as usual. It's also one of the reasons I'm after a 4x4. Last lot of nasty floods I couldn't do a drat thing to help my in-laws because the dirt had liquefied where their car and caravan was, and out of the water was too soft for a two wheel drive to get enough traction. Even in our yard it really sucked dislodging the trailer (yes that one. During one if its period of convalescence) and the caravan from where they had sunk. That all kind of sucked though. The town was essentially isolated for a couple of months.
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Dec 1, 2012 23:59
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I crashed my old truck And bought a new one  1994 Toyota Hilux Surf, 3.0 turbo diesel 1KZ-TE, 5spd manual. It's in pretty reasonable condition. Head was rebuilt 30,000km ago, has a leak from the power steering pump, a bit of rust in the bottom of the drivers door, a few other little issues but nothing major. Headlights suck, AC blower fan is hosed, I'm terrified of overheating it Already bought 4x new 31" BFG MT's, removed the side steps, 2x new batteries (the old ones were from 2006 and hosed), I'm in the process of changing all the filters/fluids Next steps are -Snorkel -AC blower (have one from a wrecker on the way) -Manual locking hubs -New shocks + bushings -Find out exactly what the leak is from the power steering pump is and sort that out -Bash plate -Winchbar and winch -New fan clutch -Get rid of the rust -New temp gauge, factory one has a massive dead spot. It runs awesome, 250,000km on the clock and has clearly been wound back but I didn't pay a heap for it and it's pretty tidy, I'm looking forward to working on it. Love the power and space, much better truck than my old Rocky. It hasn't done much off the road, no damage to the underside at all. Desperately needs a snorkel because I'm terrified of driving through any water without one at the moment. Tossing up doing a 2" suspension lift when I do the shocks, not sure if it's worth it, how much will it effect my economy? Mostly used as a daily driver and long highway trips. It should have a factory rear LSD which I might swap out for an airlocker at some point. I'm unsure of the condition of the factory one right now. gimpsuitjones fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Dec 2, 2012 |
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Dec 2, 2012 14:07
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Nice surf! For a sure fire fix to the cooling system, track down the fan and radiator from a 2000 turbo diesel hilux. The radiator is almost a drop in (minor mods to the side bars to clear bolts) and the 10 blade fan moves a tonne of air. Works great in my 92 hilux with a 93 1KZ surf engine in it. Also, the 76 degree thermostat from a prado helps keep things under control, tho the heater will suck in the depths of winter cos it runs a bit cool.
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Dec 2, 2012 14:33
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Sweet, I'll look into the replacement radiator/fan. In NZ so a good heater is key. I've got an aftermarket turbo timer fitted, I don't know how much that helps.
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Dec 2, 2012 14:46
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gimpsuitjones posted:I crashed my old truck Now, I have a question. I've talked to this bloke. He got the short end of the stick on an eBay auction and he said this vehicle has a lot more wrong with it that what was advertised when he bought it. The price reflects that. The engine may or may not still be viable. The muffler has a split and the back shackle rubbers are stuffed. Beyond that it's not bad. Is it worth my time and effort to try getting it? If this ad draws extra attention to it then good for him. Ebay is a wasteland right now for sellers  http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251190492855#ht_1628wt_194
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Dec 2, 2012 22:18
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Still wondering if anybody knows how/where I can find out how to remove and replace a transfer case actuator cable. Specifically in a 1996 GMC Sonoma 4x4 with lever-4wd. It appears to be encased in rubber on the inside and outside of the floor of the cab. I haven't been able to find anything about it because the vast majority of these s10/blazer trucks are push-button 4wd. I know some of you guys must have had to replace some of these things on the trail at one point or another...
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Dec 3, 2012 06:49
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I'm looking for a little help and advice with regards to a future project. I've an old Range rover classic with a 3.5 (efi) that is very much on its way out. I'd like to make it into something with a decent bit of poke that would be comfortable to do a distance reasonably quickly with a bit of light off roading. I'm wanting to re-engine and am tempted to go down the LS route. Probably a LS3 as I understand that is relatively easy to squeeze in to the range rover. I know there are options like the lexus v8 or a nice John Eales motor which I haven't entirely discounted. I'm not sure whether to go for a stock electrics / ecu pack; Or to go down the megasquirt route (I'm not really a fan of electrics but if I had a decent guide I could probably make it through). Then it comes to transmissions. I know literally nothing about the American options although it has been suggested that a 4l60 is a viable option. I have a the ZF22 four speed auto in at the moment which I could get ashcrofts to rebuild and upgrade but I'm still not sure it'd be up to the 400+hp level. Any advice is much appreciated.
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Dec 19, 2012 19:59
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Colonel K posted:I'm looking for a little help and advice with regards to a future project. Cursedshitbox just dropped a new cam in his Rover V8 and turned out to be a drat nice set up. Really, just go find a Rover V8 4.6, do a mild cam, and drop it in. I assume your running Lucas 14CUX? Rover V8's are drat good motors when built correctly. The LS3 is going to start making poo poo break when you add tons of power. Plus trying to get new electrics to adapt blah blah blah.
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Dec 19, 2012 20:21
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Cursedshitbox just dropped a new cam in his Rover V8 and turned out to be a drat nice set up. I did think about the 4.6, but I've always been lead to think that the heads are a bit weak and unles top hat linered you can in for trouble. I think it's the easiest route, but will never make much power, especially for the weight of the barge. I don't think I've 14CUX, it's the flapper EFI system ( which is a a pain itself on my lpg system) The electrics are a bit of a concern, however being a Land rover they're not great to begin with. That's why the idea of shifting to something more robust. I intend the project to be basically a complete rebuild of the vehicle, I've very little interest in new cars and am working on my fleet of fun vehicles. It would also be nice to keep up with a friends AMG G wagon.
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Dec 19, 2012 20:47
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Finally got the motivation to fix the truck so it'd stop falling on its face over 2500rpm... Dropped the exhaust at the cat (yay 4 bolt flange on the cat inlet!) and looked down inside, turns out 2/3 of the catalytic converter core had disintegrated, gone sideways, and jammed into the muffler. An entire cherrybomb muffler full of sideways chunks of honeycomb from the outlet of the cat to within 6" of the outlet of the muffler. It doesn't lose power anymore, wish I'd screwed around with it two months ago instead of worrying about it being the motor for so long  Also, did some softroading yesterday on the way to preinspecting a house a friend is looking at buying. GPS told me to go this way, I wonder how many others it has misled. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtBeDuqdXww Made it all in 2WD open diffs with a stock jeep, only the spot at 1:40 (going the other way) was worrying. Almost thought I was going to have to use 4x4. The "40 pounds of silverware" sound is my entire toolbag emptying itself all over the trunk.
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Dec 19, 2012 20:55
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Colonel K posted:I'm looking for a little help and advice with regards to a future project. If you trans is good just use it. It's vacuum operated so it's not going to need a TCU paired to a BECM paired to an ECU to work (like D2s and later). Get a bell housing adapter and use the ecu from the motor you put in. http://www.marks4wd.com/bell-housing-adaptors/land-rover/range-rover/chevy-v6-v8-to-range-rover-automatic-transmissions.html Sure, you can go the 4.6 route, but you'd be foolish to do that with an actual 4.6 block. You'd be looking at a 2.9 or 4.0 built block (before they started making them out of cheese) with 4.0/4.6 heads (same thing) and 4.6 internals with a good cam. You'd then need your front cover and figure out where/how the crank position sensor is on yours. I can tell you that a 4.0/4.6 block out of a D2 is going to be in the wrong place, but maybe a 4.0/3.9 out of a D1 would work. Or is your old enough that you don't have a crank position sensor but points in the dizzy? If so, you don't need to worry about that part. So basically what I'm saying is put a drat SBC in it and be happy.
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Dec 19, 2012 21:11
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Motronic posted:So basically what I'm saying is put a drat SBC in it and be happy. Or just say screw it and put in a 6.2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KEqxgyULTg
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Dec 23, 2012 23:08
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Colonel K posted:I'm wanting to re-engine and am tempted to go down the LS route. Probably a LS3 as I understand that is relatively easy to squeeze in to the range rover. There is no difference in the actual longblock itself as far as fitting the engine into a vehicle - all the way from the original LS1 up through the LS3 and current Vortecs. The only factors that impact fitment are the accessory drive, oil pan, and intake manifold, which all vary more based on the original application than they do on the engine itself. And, with the right parts, any engine can receive nearly any combination of these parts (see: BoostCreep looking at going to a car intake on his truck-sourced V8 to get more hood clearance). You will, however, pay a premium for the 'latest and greatest' of the LS line, which currently is the LS3. The LT1 is replacing it but isn't actually available yet. You'd get nearly an identical end product for a good chunk less money with an older LS1 or LS2, and a good deal less money again if you're willing to do an iron-block 4.8, 5.3, or 6.0 truck engine. If you do go that route, I'd do the 4L60/4L65E swap with it, just because it's the most commonly available transmission option and it's very easy to find a complete engine, transmission, wiring harness, and computer as a set. The 4L6x is not the world's greatest gearbox by any means but since it's been around roughly forever now (it's still the same basic design as the early-'80s 700R4) it is relatively cheap and easy to rebuild for big power now. If you can get your hands on a truck engine with a 4L80E hanging off of it, though, that'd be the best bet - the 4L80E is considerably more stout than the 4L60, though it's also relatively rare. Or, if you do want to go nuts, you can try and get a later-model engine that has a 6L80 six-speed attached to it.
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Dec 23, 2012 23:36
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with a SBC you'll eat axle parts like candy. lovely rover axles were not designed for that kind of torque. especially suffix B 10 spline poo poo. early 4hp22s dont have vacuum modulators, just a TV cable. if its a 3 speed TF727 trans, then yes. Otherwise no. 2 heads on the rover v8, 3.5/3.9 V drive, and serpentine drives. They're about the same. if anything, the later ones are actually better. cheapest quickest option? 4.2 with a cam. you can go from the 13cu to 14cu(x) in about a day. The flapper setup is a total pile of poo poo. Gems/Thor crank sensors are in the wrong spot for EDIS/MS applications, iirc its 35* off. His truck should have a reluctor ring on it with the little beryllium ignition module mounted directly to the dizzy. Early 40/46 blocks were the best. the Bosch ones I'd avoid for a ground up build. also read into "pinning" the liners. Edit: Dare to be different.  M52 obd1 in a classic. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Dec 23, 2012 |
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Dec 23, 2012 23:39
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IOwnCalculus posted:Thorough reply Thank's very much for the reply, it certainly gives me plenty to think about. The difficulty with sourcing items is that I'll have to have everything shipped from the States to the UK. I have been toying with the idea of going for a new crate motor if it'll fit, as I'd like to make a reliable vehicle and don't really have any intention of selling it. The transmission option has been on my mind for a bit. I just don't know if an uprated ZF would be up to the job at all. Although rover axles are weak I'd be rebuilding them with ashcrofts items throughout which should help the strength a lot. Coupled with the fact that I'm reasonable gentle on drivetrains and I'd like to think it should be fairly solid. I think clearance on the oil pan might be an issue, but I wouldn't really know until I got the thing on and in. I found this chap who put a LS1 with a 4l80e in a Defender. (http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=194&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=c9ae2fb777b8a4b6fc3f2c0753904155 )
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Dec 24, 2012 00:38
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Just putting this here to help spread the word...guy had his FJ60 stolen (Carolina area) with his dog in the back. Guts me just thinking about it. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-chit-chat/1108819-omg-my-fj60-stolen-my-dog-inside.html http://www.facebook.com/helpfindlexy
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Dec 25, 2012 04:54
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this is technically offroad right? My Toyotas didn't get along (when I owned either [because I hated them both])
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Dec 25, 2012 19:23
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Colonel K posted:Thank's very much for the reply, it certainly gives me plenty to think about. The difficulty with sourcing items is that I'll have to have everything shipped from the States to the UK. That would definitely make things more tricky since I'm guessing the only LSx vehicles you guys have would be various Holdens/Vauxhalls and the rare Corvette. Half of the reason the LSx is so goddamn popular here is that at this point, a 4.8/5.3 out of a Silverado is one of the cheapest engines you can get your hands on in swap-ready configuration, since there are literally millions of them.
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Dec 26, 2012 18:31
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Ahh.. to contribute: This counts.. sort of. I was driving to avoid the ruts and lost traction.. we got out to push it back down and I got a little momentum and blasted up the hill. As capable as this little car can be: I need you guys to help me make a decision soon. I'm going in one of two directions: 91+ XJ or First generation 4runner 22re, 5speed ideally. I'm in the Pacific Northwest. The XJ's grow on drat trees here but I'm really leaning towards the older 4runner.. Seems to be better out of the box and the weaker engine will enable me more range, I can sacrifice power. Any other suggestions? I essentially need a more capable people hauler than my Suby, it's not going to hold up to this kind of stuff like one of these other rigs might.
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Dec 27, 2012 05:48
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I'd look at an XJ with the 4 liter since you probably want more power going across the mountain passes.
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Dec 27, 2012 09:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:That would definitely make things more tricky since I'm guessing the only LSx vehicles you guys have would be various Holdens/Vauxhalls and the rare Corvette. Half of the reason the LSx is so goddamn popular here is that at this point, a 4.8/5.3 out of a Silverado is one of the cheapest engines you can get your hands on in swap-ready configuration, since there are literally millions of them. Our supply of relatively cheap V8s other than the Rover is more likely to come from Lexus or BMW vehicles, though old Bentley engines aren't actually that expensive, and they have the advantage of being large, fairly tough, and alloy blocked.
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Dec 27, 2012 11:13
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So. Yesterday for some unknown reason I saw heaps of Discoveries... Discoverys? Whatever, those land rovers on the road. Last night I had nightmares about Land Rover parts when I went to bed. So I took this as a reason to have another look to see what's out there. Found a cheapie, and I'm curious if it's dead because it's in gently caress You mode. Here's the relevant paragraph. "The vehicle is no longer running, it was running fine. I think the problem may be the central locking/immobiliser, because a part in the drivers side door lock broke, and that is when it would not start. Although I think the door lock is the problem, I can not guarantee it." Although I think I'm dreaming right now, it seemed interesting. @1996 model it's a bit newer than I'd feel comfortable with though.
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Dec 27, 2012 22:35
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General_Failure posted:
The alarm could simply be armed with no way to disarm it because the switch in the door lock isn't being turned to disarm (it's in the driver's door only). Or the spider could have cold solder joints. Or it could be an electrical basket case.
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Dec 27, 2012 22:48
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Motronic posted:
I thought this was implicit. Think I'll pass. I really want something pre-electronic anyway.
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Dec 27, 2012 23:02
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Philip J Fry posted:Just putting this here to help spread the word...guy had his FJ60 stolen (Carolina area) with his dog in the back. Guts me just thinking about it. Hooray they found the dog. 
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Dec 29, 2012 01:12
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AND the truck! And 3 people got arrested in the process before they even figured out someone to arrest for the truck/dog thefts.
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Dec 29, 2012 01:20
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Thats great they were able to find the dog and the truck. A buddy and I took our trucks out last night. Now to spend the next week cleaning up the mess   
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Dec 29, 2012 18:10
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   Last couple of days in upstate New York... we finally got a big snowfall.  So I have a couple of questions- I just put a new transfer case cable in my truck, and everything works fine (although I haven't hosed with 4lo yet) but the other day I was screwing around and I put the truck back into 2wd, and then it wouldn't go back into 4hi. There was just sort of a quiet grinding sound. Sometimes it will do that, and I just have to feather the gas, or pop it in reverse for a second and it will fully engage, but this time it wouldn't. So I had to get a running start to get over this snowy hill and then let the truck sit for a couple hours while I went sledding with some friends. When I came back later, it did the same thing for a second and THEN engaged in 4wd. My theory here is that I have a vacuum leak and the light rubbing/grinding sound I'm hearing has to do with the hubs not locking all the way. Last time I checked my vacuum actuator, it was a little worn, but still serviceable. When I broke the cable back around Thanksgiving, I hosed around with it a lot and elicited many different grinding sounds from the transfercase and transmission, is there a chance I did some damage to the gears that prevents them from meshing reliably now? My other question is just about 4wd in general and open diffs. Why is it that you get wheel skip on dry pavement when turning sharp enough in 4wd? Every 4wd truck I've driven has had open diffs, and yet they all do this. I thought that both wheels being allowed to turn at different rates was an advantage of open diffs, yet they seem to behave like a locker when making tight turns on dry surfaces. How is that?
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Dec 29, 2012 21:19
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So does the vacuum something actuate the cable or what? If you are following the correct procedure it's possible whatever is actuating it is misaligned. Been through this poo poo with an electronic Explorer transfer case. You shouldn't have it in 4x4 on pavement under normal conditions. It's not good for the drivetrain especially with all that winding up and unwinding on tight turns.
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Dec 29, 2012 22:31
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TheFrailNinja posted:My other question is just about 4wd in general and open diffs. Why is it that you get wheel skip on dry pavement when turning sharp enough in 4wd? Every 4wd truck I've driven has had open diffs, and yet they all do this. I thought that both wheels being allowed to turn at different rates was an advantage of open diffs, yet they seem to behave like a locker when making tight turns on dry surfaces. How is that? It's because there's no center differential.
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Dec 29, 2012 23:38
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Well after I finally got it back into 4wd the other day, I left it in 4wd. The roads here are ALL snowy and lovely so there's virtually no dry pavement at the moment. The lever pulls a cable that goes directly to the transfer case, and then through some other signal, the vacuum actuator pulls another cable that locks the hubs. I have a sneaking suspicion I have a vacuum leak, and the hubs aren't locking as strongly as they should be or something like that. I'm just wondering how open diffs will allow one wheel to spin when you are stuck, but behave like a locker when you are on a dry surface. The question about open diffs is pretty much unrelated though, it's just something I've been curious about.
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Dec 29, 2012 23:39
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you're forgetting the diff in the middle which I'm guessing is locked on your vehicle.
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Dec 29, 2012 23:41
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So a center diff only on an AWD car? How does it work exactly? I always like to think of AWD and 4wd as meaning all four wheels are CAPABLE of receiving power, but sans lockers will allow them to spin at different speeds.
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Dec 29, 2012 23:45
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Also thanks for reminding me why the Niva falls into the range of Small 4x4 that interests me. Still want a Land Rover for larger. The reason is a discrete transfer case with a direct mechanical linkage. gently caress electronics, vacuum and cables. So sick of it all.
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Dec 29, 2012 23:46
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AWD and 4x4 are different. 4x4 generally means the center is locked, i.e. both driveshafts spin at the same speed in 4x4 mode. That is why it is wheel hopping when turning and also why you are stretching your transfer case chain and wearing things out extremely quickly if you use 4x4 when you shouldn't, like on roads that aren't covered in sand/gravel/snow. Don't do that. If you have been, stop. Some 4x4 vehicles (for instance ones with a "full time" setting, like an XJ with an NP242 transfer case) have a sorta-AWD mode that adds an open center differential. Those can be driven on pavement in that mode, the problem is, the open center differential means lifting a single tire will result in wheelspin and you going nowhere in this mode. Most also have a "part time" setting that's more traditional and locks the driveshafts together. General rules: 4x4 Part Time: you can only use it part of the time, on loose surfaces. When used with excessive throttle or on the wrong surface, it also means it's part time, head for the parts store! 4x4 Full Time: you can use this anytime you want. Some vehicles also come with a viscous clutch type AWD mode, like various Grand Cherokees. Some have it turned on at all times, in fact. You can tell which ZJs have these because they will shudder and chirp and require replacement of the viscous clutch in a fairly short amount of time, I don't know if other makes have the same reliability issues with them. General_Failure: I completely agree, solid mechanical linkages are better.
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Dec 30, 2012 00:01
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TheFrailNinja posted:So a center diff only on an AWD car? How does it work exactly? I always like to think of AWD and 4wd as meaning all four wheels are CAPABLE of receiving power, but sans lockers will allow them to spin at different speeds. I'd consider the land rover defender a 4x4 and it has a centre diff which is lockable. You normally run with it open and it behaves just like a differential in your axle and rather neatly it allows you to turn a slightly tighter turn when off road if you have enough traction. Locked up it just sends the same driveshaft rotation rate out front and rear.
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Dec 30, 2012 00:10
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I'd say the Land Rover way of doing things is best, as you get both low and high range locked or unlocked. The only thing you miss out on is any kind of 2wd, which really isn't important. Though they also use a viscous coupling in Freelanders and certain Range Rover Classics, and there was the debacle with later Discovery IIs not having a difflock as the traction control was considered good enough alone. And then there's the leafers which are 2hi/4hi/4lo... My WJ Grand Cherokee has a 247 transfer case, which is a georotor pump and clutch pack rather than a viscous clutch. The front and rear shafts are linked by what is effectively an oil pump like in your engine's lubrication system - if there's a large enough difference in speed between the front and back, enough oil is pumped to close up a clutch pack and "lock" the two together. Because it's Quadra-Drive, the same things are in the front and rear axle diffs as well. Low range is still a traditional front-rear mechanical lock. Generally, if a vehicle has an option to choose between 2wd and 4wd, you should only use the 4wd on high-traction surfaces if you're specifically told it's ok to do so.
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Dec 30, 2012 00:20
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 So I got stuck today! Went out to our normal 4x4 park to do some wheelin. It had rained all morning and everything was slick as poo poo. Hit this mud hole and just stuck! Took 2 Jeeps to get me out. One winching me and the other the anchor for the guy doing the winching. All in all a good time and the new Nittos did a great job considering the terrain.
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Dec 30, 2012 00:46
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You can set the LandRover LT230 transferbox up for 2wd operation. Its not recommended but its doable. The V/C in good health works just as well, but finding one that is in good health is a joke all by itself. The classics and P38s use a Borg-Warner case...makes me wonder how much off the shelf poo poo they used to build them.
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Dec 30, 2012 00:59
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only the very late model classics had a borg warner, my classic certainly has a lt230.
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Dec 30, 2012 01:06
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