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dreesemonkey posted:When I had my miata with mousetrap style bar the frame of the top would flex a little and rattle against the style bar. I put a few layers of gorilla tape where it was happening and it stopped the sound. I should have mentioned it does it with the top down or up. Thanks, though. I think I'm going to lift up the back and have a good look underneath for anything wobbly in the exhaust system, loose end links, that sort of thing. After checking the ECU.
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# ? Dec 21, 2012 15:45 |
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# ? May 24, 2024 17:52 |
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saint gerald posted:Something is rattling
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# ? Dec 21, 2012 19:09 |
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Speaking of battery tie downs, I did this last week. The 13 year old factory battery finally gave up so I replaced it with a BCI 47/90 that is a good bit wider and a bit taller and has a dedicated vent that hooked right up to the miata vent hose. It has 100 more cranking amps, is much more readily available, and was cheaper than the direct replacement. And the battery cover/trunk floor piece still lays right. Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Dec 23, 2012 |
# ? Dec 23, 2012 21:05 |
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FM gas pedal extension installed, now I can heal toe consistently. Woo! Tomorrow in goes the roll bar and 6 point.
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# ? Dec 25, 2012 22:53 |
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What's the word on poly suspension bushings for Miatas? They are well regarded on Minis but looking on m.net people complain about them a lot. The fact that they are good on my car but people still complain about the noise or whatever leads me to believe they are good and worth getting and people are just whiners. Looking at getting an NA or a cheap NB and just doing all the suspension stuff, stiff engine and diff mounts and poo poo for now. Turbo or something somewhere down the road
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# ? Dec 25, 2012 22:57 |
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Are you looking for limited edition information on Nardi steering wheels? Do you accept the 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 M-Edition as the most beautiful and perfect car ever? Is your bedroom painted in Merlot Mica? If not, why are you on m.net? If you're looking for a fun, "cheap" car that handles well, returns 30mpg or so, and demolishes everything (in a corner), this is what you're looking at: - The car - A rollbar - Suspension (Coilovers, bushings, motor mounts :: $1800ish, $250, $75) - Some summer tires (Dunlop Z1, Hankook R-S3; buy wheels where necessary) - Misc maintenance The Energy Bushing package and the Competition motor mounts have the potential to make a bit more noise.
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 00:10 |
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Is a roll bar necessary if you are not going racing?
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 00:14 |
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Nah. I do recommend spending money on properly valved shocks, though.
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 00:16 |
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Goddamnit. Mustn'tve driven the '5 in a long time; I couldn't turn the engine over at lunchtime for a Christmas drive out
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 00:22 |
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Phone posted:Are you looking for limited edition information on Nardi steering wheels? Do you accept the 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 M-Edition as the most beautiful and perfect car ever? Is your bedroom painted in Merlot Mica? I hardly get 30mpg. Lows are track days. Highs are either 100% highway or a pump that cut off a little early.
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 00:24 |
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Do you have a turbo or something? With NA I've even broken 40MPG using 3.63 gears driving cross country.
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 00:48 |
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craig588 posted:Do you have a turbo or something? With NA I've even broken 40MPG using 3.63 gears driving cross country. Nope, bone stock 95 NA m edition. Only issues Ive ever had is the occasional rough idle right after start if the motor was warm.
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 01:13 |
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Sadi posted:bone stock...m edition There's the problem. I like stripping my car so much every couple months I look at that 1,800$ set of control arms just to drop 12 pounds off it.
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 01:37 |
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In the winter I average ~24 mpg, summer 26-28 mpg (including usually 1 autoX per tank). Before putting on sticky summer tires I hit 33-35 mpg. '99 NB with torsen, and a lot of that is city driving where the car barely reaches operating temperature - joys of small towns and a 10 minute commute to work.
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 01:50 |
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TrueChaos posted:FM gas pedal extension installed, now I can heal toe consistently. Woo! Tomorrow in goes the roll bar and 6 point. Is there any chance the Miata uses the same gas pedal as an FC? This is a set of pedal covers for the FC: http://www.autovation.net/products/Mazda/FCRX7/FCRX7_pedals/repo/No_logo_MT_4pc.html The mounting holes on the gas pedal look similar to here: http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=&parentid=&stocknumber=21-74000 I'm more than happy to a save a few bucks and get just the extension, if it'll fit.
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 02:37 |
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Going to pick up a set of these: http://www.amazon.com/OMP-Racing-OMP-OA-Sandblasted-aluminum/dp/B003V515WS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1356485993&sr=8-2&keywords=omp+pedals
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 02:40 |
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Sadi posted:I hardly get 30mpg. Yeah that's weird, I get no less than 30MPG in my 97M and that's trashing it at every opportunity.
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 07:33 |
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By my math I average around 23 mpg in my 96 base model. I commute 3 days a week in stop and go traffic though so no real highway miles.
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 16:01 |
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Just picked up this '97 for for $1,250 with 199,000 miles. It has a new exhaust, chinese tires, shocks all around, pads+rotors, timing belt, newish rad, and a fairly new glass window top. It drives like it's on rails and just feels great. This is my second car so I plan to use this for autocross and tracking primarily. The only big problem is 3/4 fenders are extremely rusty, but there is no undercarriage or frame rust from what I can tell. I am going to buy replacement panels from rockauto and get a macco job or just rattle can it. I also have a spare hood. I am going to gut the interior, get a rollbar, racing seat+belts, flush all the fluids, get some track pads, new wheels and tires (I'm thinking the sport package from here: http://www.flyinmiata.com/wheels/index.php) and some raceland (or possibly better) coilovers. I am renting a garage for the winter to work on it and hopefully it will be prepped and ready for the spring!
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 17:21 |
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Voltage, nice find! I've been looking for a ~$1K Miata for about a month, which I plan to SR20DET swap and install all the other performance bits over time. If you're looking for some good tires, check out the Dunlop Star Specs. My friend has them on his E39 M5 and they are ridiculously sticky. Good luck with the build!
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 17:32 |
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jpotts posted:Voltage, nice find! I've been looking for a ~$1K Miata for about a month, which I plan to SR20DET swap and install all the other performance bits over time. If you're looking for some good tires, check out the Dunlop Star Specs. My friend has them on his E39 M5 and they are ridiculously sticky. It took me a few months but I finally found a cheap one, prices around me were crazy, nothing less than $4-5K. I plan to get the star specs and lightweight wheels, I hear nothing but good things. Good luck!
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 17:47 |
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jpotts posted:SR20DET swap That's the dumbest thing ever. Turbo the factory engine for up to 300hp or put an LS in for more than that.
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 18:08 |
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craig588 posted:That's the dumbest thing ever. Turbo the factory engine for up to 300hp or put an LS in for more than that. Agreed, the stock motor is very solid and takes forced induction well and there are a TON of excellent, complete kits you can get. V8 swaps are much more complex, but there are also kits that come with everything you need for a nice LS swap. https://www.flyinmiata.com/ I have never heard of an SR20 swap in to a Miata, it seems completely nonsensical. Why get a "jdm yo" engine that is not even made for the car at all, and not all that powerful? The only appeal of the SR20 is to swap in to a 240SX since it bolts right in, putting one in anything else is completely retarded.
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 18:33 |
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The only thing is that tranny options suck for big power. If you're looking to be making north of 300-400hp then it's best to just swap to something else. For around 300ish, then I'd just stay with the BP and toss in a 6 speed.
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 19:57 |
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I had (somehow) managed to put modifying my miata out of my, telling myself that its silly to spend money modifying my DD/only car. Goddamnyou for posting that link
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 20:19 |
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Manufacturing problem with the rollbar, will likely need to wait two weeks. Looks like something was up with the jig they used. Sigh, two more weeks I can wait. Was so excited though,
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 21:32 |
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grumplestiltzkin posted:I had (somehow) managed to put modifying my miata out of my, telling myself that its silly to spend money modifying my DD/only car. Goddamnyou for posting that link They have good stuff but are also probably the most expensive vendor. If you find something you like shop around and see if you can find a slightly cut down version for hundreds less.
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 21:46 |
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What bar are you putting in?
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 22:00 |
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One made by a local fab shop that does a lot of work with miata's. It's very similar to the M2 Hard dog, (and priced slightly more expensive, but I don't have to pay the ~350$ to get it from California to Ontario). I've seen one installed, and it looked great. CASC legal, SCCA legal, etc. Double diagonal + welded in harness bar, & compatibility with NB glass rear window. More info here: http://www.daves-garage.ca/Site/Roll_Bars.html
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 22:12 |
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Voltage posted:Agreed, the stock motor is very solid and takes forced induction well and there are a TON of excellent, complete kits you can get. V8 swaps are much more complex, but there are also kits that come with everything you need for a nice LS swap. I'm also looking at this from a value perspective, not counting time invested. I've done some fairly light research into the LS swap and turbo kits available, and for the price of a basic Flyin' Miata turbo kit ($3K) that will net "150 HP at the rear wheels," I will have a SR20 in the mid 200's. Arguing that a SR20 swap makes no sense simply because an engine is perceived as "jdm yo" and wasn't originally intended to fit a Miata, makes no sense if you're suggesting an LS swap. If you can suggest a kit that will net me comparable power, for around the price of an SR20 swap (~$1.5K), I'm all ears. Ganondork fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Dec 26, 2012 |
# ? Dec 26, 2012 22:29 |
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Engine subframe fab time, transmission tunnel fab time, custom driveshaft, custom dashboard, custom wiring harness. How is it possible you're so worthless your time is worth less than 1500$, but you're still skilled enough to do all this stuff right? Edit: Oh yeah, custom exhaust too. Churbo kits are the cheap low power option. Around 200HP for around 1000$. Way easier to install than a entirely different engine. Flyinmiatas kits are only good because they're super easy and well thought out, they're not trying to win cost or performance awards. If you're skilled enough for an engine swap you're more than qualified for a little bit of work required for a churbo kit. craig588 fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Dec 26, 2012 |
# ? Dec 26, 2012 22:41 |
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If you can put an SR20 in a Miata yourself then you can do a custom turbo job as well, which will be just as good or better and cost about the same for way less work.
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 23:23 |
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Piece it together. Buy and build a megasquirt. Buy a used T25 and an ebay cast (1.6L only I believe) manifold or a used bell/flyin' miata manifold and cobble together some IC piping and FMIC. It can be done quite a bit cheaper and you'll be able to get north of 200hp pretty easily. You'll need some injectors, too. Just read up on miataturbo.net and you'll find all your answers there.
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# ? Dec 26, 2012 23:28 |
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So this week is miata maintenance week. Will be checking the plugs for evidence of whats causing the bad MPG. Changing diff and transmission fluid to 75w90 synthetic fluid. Putting a new brake MC in and flushing the system while im at it. Is there any advice to flushing the ABS? My friends with out ABS have so much better brake feel, Id love to get close.
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# ? Dec 27, 2012 00:23 |
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jpotts posted:If you can suggest a kit that will net me comparable power, for around the price of an SR20 swap (~$1.5K), I'm all ears. If you really want to do it then do it. Don't let anyone here stop you. But if you really are asking then here's my 2 cents; The 'turbo' people are right. You're also underestimating the hidden extra costs of doing an engine swap.
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# ? Dec 27, 2012 00:38 |
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Where's the cheapest place to pick up replacement coil packs? I'm pretty sure that mine have poo poo the bed. The car cranks but wont start, I'm not getting a signal from coil pack when I prob it with a multimeter while cranking.
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# ? Dec 27, 2012 07:56 |
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Digging about in the trunk trying to pin down my mystery rattle (so far, without success) I happened across these two unplugged connectors. Anyone know what they're for? They're right in front of the battery, the edge of which you can see in the lower left corner of the picture.
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# ? Dec 27, 2012 14:34 |
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Larrymer posted:Piece it together. Buy and build a megasquirt. Buy a used T25 and an ebay cast (1.6L only I believe) manifold or a used bell/flyin' miata manifold and cobble together some IC piping and FMIC. It can be done quite a bit cheaper and you'll be able to get north of 200hp pretty easily. You'll need some injectors, too. Just read up on miataturbo.net and you'll find all your answers there. I like your answer, sir! I'll check out miataturbo.net for some other options, and hopefully avoid buying one of the pricey kits. Thanks for the info.
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# ? Dec 27, 2012 15:17 |
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I took the opportunity of being off work to perform the first oil change on my miata since buying it (whoever put that oil filter there should be shot), and decided I might as well change the front brakes despite the pads appearing to have a few more miles on them when looking in through the wheel. Apparently the inner pads wore out way quicker than the outer ones though. Here's a shot of the front right set of pads: Luckily it only roughed up about 1/8th of an inch of the outside of my rotor.
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# ? Dec 27, 2012 18:25 |
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# ? May 24, 2024 17:52 |
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destructo posted:They're old tech. You'd be better off running RX-8 injectors (425s) which are Bosch EV6 and are much better than pindle style RX-7 units. Otherwise step up to some ID725s (EV14). This is a quote from a while back, but do you happen to know if there are knockoff RX-8 injectors out there? I found some nice looking used ones for a good price, but I know sometimes these sort of things can be a little dodgy.
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# ? Dec 27, 2012 20:09 |