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televiper posted:I've only owned manuals, so I haven't needed to price out (or look into DIY) for ATF change - are all auto's in that neighborhood or is this something special? No but BMW transmission fluid is loving outrageous. Its like Honda ATF, its just best to stick with BMW recommends, its much cheaper than a new transmission.
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Dec 17, 2012 18:39
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Thinking about finally getting around to removing the CDV on my E46, but I'm a little bit unclear on if I would also have to bleed the brakes in the process. I know the clutch and the brakes pull from the same reservoir, but they have separate master cylinders. From a couple of the DIYs I've read through, it seems like I should be able to only bleed the clutch line without having to mess with the brakes as long as I keep the reservoir topped up. Confirm/deny? There also seems to be some difference of opinion on whether or not a pressure bleeder is required. Some people claim you can just use the old 2-person method, while some other people seem to think that it's impossible to bleed an E46 clutch using that method and that a pressure bleeder is required. I know people in this thread have removed their E46 CDVs, so what's the plain truth?
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Dec 19, 2012 23:42
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Guinness posted:Thinking about finally getting around to removing the CDV on my E46, but I'm a little bit unclear on if I would also have to bleed the brakes in the process. I know the clutch and the brakes pull from the same reservoir, but they have separate master cylinders. From a couple of the DIYs I've read through, it seems like I should be able to only bleed the clutch line without having to mess with the brakes as long as I keep the reservoir topped up. Confirm/deny? You shouldn't have to bleed the brakes after. I never have anyway. If you don't already have a Motive (or similar bleeder) I highly recommend one. Makes bleeding stuff a 1 person job and takes about 1/4 of the time to complete since you just pop open the bleed screw and let it go.
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Dec 19, 2012 23:56
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Guinness posted:Thinking about finally getting around to removing the CDV on my E46, but I'm a little bit unclear on if I would also have to bleed the brakes in the process. I know the clutch and the brakes pull from the same reservoir, but they have separate master cylinders. From a couple of the DIYs I've read through, it seems like I should be able to only bleed the clutch line without having to mess with the brakes as long as I keep the reservoir topped up. Confirm/deny? I would probably bleed the brakes anyway, not because you're going to get air in the lines, but because it never hurts to replace the brake fluid. I'm going to take my CDV out in the spring and I'm planning on a full brake fluid flush at the same time.
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Dec 20, 2012 00:02
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My brakes were just bled as part of Inspection II a few months ago by my indy, so it would be nice if I could get away with not dealing with them. I should have done the CDV right before the Inspection II, but was just too busy to think about it. Or I should have seen if my indy would have done it while they already had the car up on the lift, but I just spaced on it. Doh.
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Dec 20, 2012 00:18
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BrokenKnucklez posted:No but BMW transmission fluid is loving outrageous. Its like Honda ATF, its just best to stick with BMW recommends, its much cheaper than a new transmission. This so much. The going rate is I think about $17/L. And you need a lotta liters.
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Dec 20, 2012 00:53
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my E30 bentley says to use Dextron II v v
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Dec 20, 2012 01:59
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rscott posted:my E30 bentley says to use Dextron II v Its a 4HP22. They will take strait motor oil.
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Dec 20, 2012 02:17
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OK so there's ice everywhere today where I live and holy gently caress driving this thing on some fairly bald all seasons is harrowing. I think the LSD works, thank god, probably kept me from spinning totally around a couple of times.
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Dec 20, 2012 15:36
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Winter tires are the key for an E30 in the snow/ice. It is a stupid amount of fun in the snow when you have enough grip to not feel out of control.
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Dec 20, 2012 15:47
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Yeah I wish I had the storage space/money for a set of winter tires. I think I'm going to raid the storage area at work and pick up a couple bags of oil dry to at least get some weight in the rear.
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Dec 20, 2012 15:53
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I am running a set of Blizzaks on my E30. They make all of the difference in slick conditions.
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Dec 20, 2012 16:07
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Snow tires and an LSD make for a really good time. I've really only had issues in the snow when I've high centered it in some deeper snow while not keeping the momentum up. It is currently blizzarding here and this afternoon I will probably venture out for some minor snow drifting.
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Dec 20, 2012 16:23
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Guinness posted:My brakes were just bled as part of Inspection II a few months ago by my indy, so it would be nice if I could get away with not dealing with them. Unless BMW are complete loving morons, a common fluid reservoir for brakes and clutch will have internal dividers such that a total loss of fluid from one system doesn't cause the other to go dry. It would really suck to have a leaky clutch slave and suddenly have no brakes.
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Dec 20, 2012 18:14
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When I took out my CDV I didn't bleed anything, and it all worked out OK.
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Dec 20, 2012 18:42
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I bled my clutch after the CDV but didn't touch the brakes. The brakes would only need to be done if the reservoir emptied and you somehow pulled air into the brake line after that. I didn't even notice any bubbles in the clutch line, I just figured better safe than sorry.
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Dec 22, 2012 22:57
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God drat cooling system indeed. Need help. 98 E39 528i (M50/52 engine?) 160,000 miles Car runs great. Go to dinner about 15 miles away, drop off my friend at their house on the way home. About a mile later the thermostat kicks on red. Pull over, turn off engine, cools down, nothing seems wrong, drive a mile or two, overheats, pull over again, turn off engine again, cools down, repeat. At the gas station I pulled the overflow tank cap, started the engine and let it run, started overflowing and spraying a little. No bubbles. Water Pump seems fine. Three weeks ago I drove it from Dallas to San Antonio and back (500 miles round trip) with zero problems. We had a cold snap the other morning, I wonder if the thermostat shut all the way to let the engine warm up properly, and got stuck? My morning commute is only 8 minutes so I haven't driven it far enough to really warm it up. It doesn't get cold enough in Dallas for the thermostat to fully engage but maybe twice a year. Put on new tires 3 wks ago, but the shop didn't have any reason to top off my coolant, so I don't think it's a bleed issue. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. If the thermostat is stuck, can I just try tapping it with a hammer? How badly do these engines react to being driven while over heating? I want to get it home to wrench on it. Edit : the return pipe (2" pipe on bottom passenger side) seemed to be ambient temperature. Radiator intake pipe was hot-ish to the touch. Hadlock fucked around with this message at 09:46 on Dec 23, 2012 |
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Dec 23, 2012 09:17
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Hadlock posted:God drat cooling system indeed. Don't tap on it, you stand a pretty strong chance of breaking the housing. Hopefully you got lucky and didn't pop the head gasket. Sounds like its a stuck thermostat. But go ahead and do the refresh, new pump and thermostat. Now would be a good time to look over the radiator and hoses too. I just quickly priced out a new radiator, coolant recovery tank, water pump, thermostat, and a new recovery tank cap out on rock auto and it was around 200 bucks. I don't know what shape your hoses are in though, so add another 25-40 bucks if they are old. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 09:53 on Dec 23, 2012 |
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Dec 23, 2012 09:50
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Well, after 5 years of running the "stiff as a plank board" Bilstein Sport shocks/struts on my 2002 330, I finally sprung for some Koni Sport Yellow (adjustable) and am extremely happy with the results. I had the rears set at 1.75 turns (since you have to remove to adjust) and the fronts at about 1.25 turns and it's ideal for daily driving now. In hindsight I probably should have paid the extra money for the adjustable TC Kline versions of the rears but alas. I was also surprised that the Meyle HD rear shock mounts I put on a few years ago were torn up already.
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Dec 23, 2012 21:43
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Hadlock posted:How badly do these engines react to being driven while over heating? I want to get it home to wrench on it. They will overheat and you have a VERY good chance of loving something up. There is a reason some people install an audible temperature warning alarm on their e36s (same engine). If the radiator is original you definitely will want to replace it. 160,000 miles out of it would actually be pretty impressive, most don't last that long. Keyser S0ze posted:Well, after 5 years of running the "stiff as a plank board" Bilstein Sport shocks/struts on my 2002 330, I finally sprung for some Koni Sport Yellow (adjustable) and am extremely happy with the results. I had the rears set at 1.75 turns (since you have to remove to adjust) and the fronts at about 1.25 turns and it's ideal for daily driving now. In hindsight I probably should have paid the extra money for the adjustable TC Kline versions of the rears but alas. I was also surprised that the Meyle HD rear shock mounts I put on a few years ago were torn up already. Where is the adjuster at the rear? On top of the shock? I know a lot of track guys use a boxcutter and make little access panels for the RSMs. Also means you don't have to tear the whole trunkliner out to remove shocks.
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Dec 23, 2012 22:45
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Yeah the radiator and hoses look like they were replaced in the last five years. There's some funny business going on with my kidney grills and headlights that make me think the front end ate someone's rear bumper before I bought it in the not too distant past. Carfax came back clean though. Thermostat was the problem, they said the housing was cracked as well. $150 for parts, $150 for labor.
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Dec 23, 2012 22:55
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Crustashio posted:Where is the adjuster at the rear? On top of the shock? I know a lot of track guys use a boxcutter and make little access panels for the RSMs. Also means you don't have to tear the whole trunkliner out to remove shocks. I had already cut out the access points on the trunk liner years ago just for inspection and possibly adding a rear strut bar so that's not the issue. The issue is that the REAR Koni Sport's can only be adjusted by fully compressing them and then using an allen wrench to tighten/loosen the internals, hence why they have to be pulled from the vehicle. The front's are completely different and you can adjust at the top of the shock with the adjuster they give you. What TC Kline makes is a different version of the rear that you can adjust from inside the trunk, however they are $240 each (instead of $170) and are backordered. I am currently back to oem stock RSM's right now which won't last very long. In light of that, I'll probably just buy the Rogue versions and have the shop install them and turn down the rear shock dampering a bit, as my car is a bit too tail-happy right now, believe it or not. I had never gotten even slightly sideways in the rain engaging with some of my favorite onramp/offramps on the square 235/18 setup I currently have, but already have gotten considerably loose twice since Thursday. I am guessing the stiff rear shock setting has something to do with it since that's the only thing that has changed. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Dec 23, 2012 |
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Dec 23, 2012 23:03
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Welp, I'm an idiot and just got pulled over for doing 120mph in my ZHP on a long straight stretch of back road near my parents' house. I'm lucky I only got a $1125 ticket and didn't get arrested/charged with reckless endangerment/have my car impounded. 
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Dec 24, 2012 03:26
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HotCanadianChick posted:Welp, I'm an idiot and just got pulled over for doing 120mph in my ZHP on a long straight stretch of back road near my parents' house. I'm lucky I only got a $1125 ticket and didn't get arrested/charged with reckless endangerment/have my car impounded. Well you know that happens when you do things like that. Kind of like when my buddy wound out his RB20 240SX on the on-ramp and just as he hit 110 in 4th we saw the cop in the median...
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Dec 24, 2012 03:31
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HotCanadianChick posted:Welp, I'm an idiot and just got pulled over for doing 120mph in my ZHP on a long straight stretch of back road near my parents' house. I'm lucky I only got a $1125 ticket and didn't get arrested/charged with reckless endangerment/have my car impounded. Buy a loving radar detector and/or look in your rear view. I do both and its more or less foolproof if you are paying attention to your surroundings. edit: unless it was laser, then get a jammer or somethin' Chinatown fucked around with this message at 10:05 on Dec 24, 2012 |
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Dec 24, 2012 10:02
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I wanted to see if anyone had some ideas before I go ahead and do the head gasket in my '89 325i. I lost about a quart of oil since I changed it about a month ago. That quart seems to have relocated itself into the coolant. There's no coolant in the oil at all and there's no external oil leaks. I did a compression and leak down test in September and everything was fine and dandy, especially for a car with 270k miles on it. The car has not been overheated. The car did not burn or lose any oil until, I'm guessing, the last month or so, but as I hadn't had a problem previously, I wasn't religiously checking the oil until the low oil check panel light came on. I'm thinking that when the PO had the head rebuilt the shop he used cheaped out and reused the head bolts or old head gasket. It would be a shame to do the head gasket when I'm planning on an M50 swap for this spring, but it would also be a shame to park the e30 when I just winterized the thing. Any other options I should check?
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Dec 26, 2012 14:53
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Chinatown posted:Buy a loving radar detector and/or look in your rear view. poo poo still happens even when you're pretty careful about where you rail corners / break the ton mark. 
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Dec 26, 2012 22:39
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Thanks to kijiji I just discovered that purple interiors were a factory, non individual colour on some e39s.   I want it...
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Dec 27, 2012 06:30
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Crustashio posted:Thanks to kijiji I just discovered that purple interiors were a factory, non individual colour on some e39s. Pimpin' ain't easy, but it's necessary.
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Dec 27, 2012 08:09
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Noise Complaint posted:It would be a shame to do the head gasket when I'm planning on an M50 swap for this spring, but it would also be a shame to park the e30 when I just winterized the thing. If I were going to go through the effort of an m50 swap in a few months, I don't think I'd bother with doing the head gasket on the m20. The cooling system already has oil in it, so the radiator is going to need to be cleaned or replaced and everything else will get swapped anyway. If the engine isn't overheating and the car is winterized, why not keep it in reserve for really crappy weather and just run it once every couple of weeks otherwise?
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Dec 27, 2012 08:13
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My NB Miata has over 200k miles and isn't the best in the winter, so I'm considering a 3-series to replace it as a daily driver. My budget is about $7500 and I've been shopping for a 2002+ 325i. Is there anything I should avoid? I'm not afraid of doing some maintenance but generally I prioritize reliability over anything else.
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Dec 27, 2012 08:57
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Chinatown posted:Buy a loving radar detector and/or look in your rear view. Do they not have the instant on type radar where you are?
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Dec 27, 2012 10:08
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Weeeee car won't start again, exactly a month after the last time I had this problem. I guess it's time to start looking at the alternator and/or seeing if I have a parasitic drain somewhere.
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Dec 27, 2012 15:42
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So I've had my old e46 328i on Craigslist for about a month now, and was lazy smogging it. Now I have a guy who wanted to come buy it tonight so I told him I'd get it smogged at lunch, "no worries, it passed really cleanly last year." Major Foot-in-mouth time, the CEL came on during the drive to work. Luckily I had brought the new bluetooth obd2 reader I got for Christmas "just to play with it" so I know it's PO133, which is a slow read from an o2 sensor, bank 1 sensor 1. After I got my 540i I read up that people actually replace the pre-cat o2 sensors as preventative maintenance, but I never did that. At 194k, that's probably what it is isn't it? After all the hassle I went through with the 540i not passing smog, I can't do that to another person. Looks like an o2 sensor for this car will run me about $90 shipped from pelican. Could be worse right? (If I replace one and sell it immediately, am I a bad person? Or will the other go out on the way to the smog shop to spite me) Maybe the car doesn't want me to get rid of it...
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Dec 27, 2012 17:31
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oddspelling posted:Pimpin' ain't easy, but it's necessary. 
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Dec 27, 2012 18:04
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:The BMW thread. Pimpin'
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Dec 27, 2012 19:58
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I've got a problem in my 2003 525i that I think is ICV related. 146k miles on this little baby. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHj38f8y1Lw When driving the car is perfect. Coming to a stop I shift into neutral and my idle will starting hunting....up and down...up and down...up and down....if I give the car some gas then it seems settle back down to normal idle pretty easily. I've removed my whole air intake system + throttle body and ICV and made sure they look good. No damage to my system is apparent. I cleaned out my ICV and throttle body with some sea foam and they both look pretty good. I did notice that my ICV, when turned upside down, the little roller thing inside there (to block air I guess) doesn't seem to have a great amount of play. Perhaps it's not functioning correctly? I don't have any error codes using my BavAuto code reader. Cold start is pretty solid. Any thoughts? Dankness fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Dec 27, 2012 |
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Dec 27, 2012 20:36
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dissss posted:Do they not have the instant on type radar where you are? No, I guess I'm lucky.
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Dec 28, 2012 01:42
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I was running some errands yesterday when I heard a faint scraping noise coming from under my E36 ('94 325is). A quick look under the car showed the splash panel hanging off and dragging along the ground. I finagled it as best I could into place and immediately went home, where I got under the car to survey the damage: http://imgur.com/a/Oqk0j You can't really tell from the pictures, but the lefthand side of the panel is splintered and there's a big fuckoff hole in it. I have no idea what may have caused the damage, but a look around the engine behind the panel seems to show nothing wrong (I know almost jack poo poo about this). Aside from the splash panel (and evident in the pictures I linked above), the lefthand spoiler transition is also broken. Both of these parts are on Bavauto for relatively cheap, and I'm just about to purchase them...except that: There's one more piece of plastic that's broken. It's in the photo album (look for the shots with the red arrows and ovals highlighting the part and its most obvious damage). The splash panel bolts to it along the sides and it seems to go up alongside the radiator- I simply have no idea what it's called or where to find a replacement. I really really don't think it's part of the wheel well liner (for one thing, it hides the brake duct). No website, guide, or catalog seems to mention it despite my best efforts to figure it out. What is this part called? Where can I find it and/or is it expensive? That aside, is there anything else I should keep on the lookout for? I was planning to take the car to a mechanic friend for some maintenance anyway (I lack the equipment, expertise, and time to do anything myself) so I'm planning to buy the panels and whatnot online and have him give the car a look over before doing the replacements at his shop. However, he's about a half-hour highway drive away from me. I was thinking of removing the damaged splash panel or simply cutting it off. Is it a bad idea to drive that far without it? I'm in CT and it snowed (and melted) yesterday so the roads will likely be wet and covered with salt and sand. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 07:10 on Dec 28, 2012 |
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Dec 28, 2012 05:06
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I'm surprised it made it this long.
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Dec 28, 2012 05:45
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