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Brain Issues posted:Yeah you mean the little T30 for the rotor to the hub? You don't need them, the lug bolts will hold them onto the hub. Motronic posted:You'll be fine without those. They just make reassembly easier. I know they're not necessary, but they're useful. Trying to hold the rather heavy rotor up so that it's mounted flush on the hub while putting the caliper on is a bitch. Mine also aren't torx, they're just phillips (and stripping constantly)
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Dec 17, 2012 06:02
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Mine also aren't torx, they're just phillips (and stripping constantly) You aren't using the proper bit. This is the explanation for almost every last one that strips out. I use a rather huge phillips bit on a hand impact for those. Even in the great salted north I almost always get them off without damage. As far as getting new ones......decent parts stores should have that kind of thing. I mean the kind of parts store that delivers to local garages, not necessarily a more consumer oriented chain store (think NAPA, national auto parts, etc).
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Dec 17, 2012 15:41
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Motronic posted:You aren't using the proper bit. This is the explanation for almost every last one that strips out. I've just been using a standard #2 screwdriver. Would that be too large or too small?
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Dec 17, 2012 16:09
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I've just been using a standard #2 screwdriver. Would that be too large or too small? WAY too small. Something that "fits" on a phillips head is something that actually fits on the screw head....as in if it were any bigger it wouldn't work. Something the same shape as the screw head that engages as much metal as possible. You can get away with the wrong size screwdrivers in low torque applications to a point, but not when you get into stuck caliper screws.
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Dec 17, 2012 19:07
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dustywusty posted:Anyone know a good VW/Porsche mechanic in the Bay Area? Need a few things done to my Touareg, including timing belts. I've had good experiences at: http://www.tomassporttuning.com/ (Berkeley) and http://burlingameindependent.com/ (San Mateo)
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Dec 17, 2012 19:39
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Motronic posted:WAY too small. Something that "fits" on a phillips head is something that actually fits on the screw head....as in if it were any bigger it wouldn't work. Something the same shape as the screw head that engages as much metal as possible. Ah. I will have to pick up a much larger screwdriver the next time I am at a hardware store then. I have just encountered yet ANOTHER problem. In the first picture, the left is the rotor I took off my car. On the right is the brand new rotor. The second picture is the image Amazon has for that new rotor (notice they are not the same):   The part number on the box (UPR816) is the same as the one on Amazon, but the one they sent me definitely is not the same one as shown on the website, and is not similar to the one I took off my car. Is it possible that it's still going to work for me, or is it just completely the wrong part? The Wonder Weapon fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Dec 17, 2012 |
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Dec 17, 2012 19:40
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Ah. I will have to pick up a much larger screwdriver the next time I am at a hardware store then. The one on the left is from your rear brakes yes? The one on the right appears to be for the front. Usually the rear rotors are unvented as they don't really get as hot.
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Dec 17, 2012 20:10
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veedubfreak posted:The one on the left is from your rear brakes yes? The one on the right appears to be for the front. Usually the rear rotors are unvented as they don't really get as hot. In the first picture, the rotor on the left that's all rusted is the rear rotor. The front rotor from the car was pretty much exactly the same. The shiny rotor on the right is supposed to be this guy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028093DK/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00 and specifically says "Fitment Notes: Rear Disc Brake Rotor, 2WD, UPR SERIES PREMIUM OE REPLACEMENT - 9.2" ROTOR DIA - EACH" I'm willing to believe that the new rotor, even if it doesn't look exactly the same, will function just fine. However, I can't get it on in any way that makes sense. I'm wondering if I'm supposed to take the cap or something off of the wheel hub before installing the rotor? I didn't have to remove anything extra to get the old rotor off, though.
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Dec 17, 2012 20:16
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The Wonder Weapon posted:In the first picture, the rotor on the left that's all rusted is the rear rotor. The front rotor from the car was pretty much exactly the same. The shiny rotor on the right is supposed to be this guy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028093DK/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00 and specifically says "Fitment Notes: Rear Disc Brake Rotor, 2WD, UPR SERIES PREMIUM OE REPLACEMENT - 9.2" ROTOR DIA - EACH" It's not the right rotor though. A vented rotor is going to be almost double the width of a non vented rotor. Also, I'm apparently blind and just now noticed that there are 2 rotors in the first picture. The one on amazon looks correct and matches the old one. The one that is on the right side of the left picture is a non vented rotor, which is wrong. Someone gave you the wrong rotor.
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Dec 17, 2012 21:53
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See if you can find a part number on the rotor itself.
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Dec 17, 2012 22:07
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The Wonder Weapon posted:In the first picture, the rotor on the left that's all rusted is the rear rotor. The front rotor from the car was pretty much exactly the same. The shiny rotor on the right is supposed to be this guy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028093DK/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00 and specifically says "Fitment Notes: Rear Disc Brake Rotor, 2WD, UPR SERIES PREMIUM OE REPLACEMENT - 9.2" ROTOR DIA - EACH" ALMS uses vented rear discs. You got discs for the regular TT. The part number that you want is 8N0615601B.
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Dec 17, 2012 23:50
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Brain Issues posted:ALMS uses vented rear discs. You got discs for the regular TT. Yep, this is exactly what happened. Amazon showed that rotor as being compatible with my car so I ordered it because it doesn't distinguish between ALMS and regular. I found this out only after calling Pepboys. They had 2 rotors that fit, so I'm just going to pick them up from them instead of hoping I get lucky ordering from a website again. After spending probably 5+ hours each on two wheels, I managed to do a third entire tire's worth of brakes yesterday in about 30 minutes. It's amazing how much faster this process is when you know what you need to do, you have all the tools, and none of the bolts strip. I just want to thank everyone that's helped me through this process. You guys have been absolutely invaluable. It's interactions like this that make me feel that SA is the best  I've ever spent.
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Dec 18, 2012 16:54
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So, following the guide here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/225821-RS4-Rear-Sway-Bar-Install, trying to install a new rear sway bar (06 A4). I've run into issues installing the bar. I couldn't get the newer bar (the kit from ECS that comes with the proper new bushings + brackets) to line-up properly with the brackets, so I went back to the old bar to try and at least re-install that, but I can't get the bracket holes to line up:  (click for super-huge) The circled area is where the bar is hitting the...uh, arm, I guess and the two lines show where I can't get the bracket to line up. At this point, I have the 15/16mm bolts for the ends of the bars installed. What am I doing wrong? Seems like I'm the only person having issues with this install. I am using ramps, so the suspension is loaded. I can't even get the original bar back in place, and I'm fairly confident its in the right orientation, as the ends line up properly, and its kinda sitting in the crevasse behind the gas tank nicely. I scuffed up the new bar quite a bit installing it, but the paint isn't really doing much for rust-protection, right? Am I good, or do I need to apply more paint + rust-protection to make up for it?
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Dec 24, 2012 01:24
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I'm dumb and was installing it upside down 
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Dec 25, 2012 01:57
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My jetta smells like a box of old crayons. Is this from the superior german adhesives? And how can I get rid of the smell?
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Dec 25, 2012 02:52
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Went to go start my Jetta yesterday morning. It was quite cold, like -24 Celcius. It started, but was running really rough and then I noticed my engine light flashing yellow. I scanned the car, and it gave me a code for "Cylinder 1 misfire". I'm guessing it's a coilpack, or spark plug? Will either of those fail because of the cold though? I'm hoping it isn't something more serious.
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Dec 25, 2012 16:07
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Kashwashwa posted:Went to go start my Jetta yesterday morning. It was quite cold, like -24 Celcius. It started, but was running really rough and then I noticed my engine light flashing yellow. This means stop driving it NOW as it's a misfire that can cause damage to the catalyst system. Kashwashwa posted:I scanned the car, and it gave me a code for "Cylinder 1 misfire". I'm guessing it's a coilpack, or spark plug? It could be. What motor is in it? The diagnostic path would be to remove the plug in cylinder 1 and look at it. If it's serviceable clean it up and put it back. Then swap the coil pack with a different cylinder and test. If the failure follows the coil pack you know what the problem is. If it doesn't you can swap the plug or just replace them all. Then see what happens. If it's still cylinder 1 it's likely wiring to the pack or a compression issue. Yes, electrical can be affected by the cold.
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Dec 25, 2012 16:36
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Motronic posted:This means stop driving it NOW as it's a misfire that can cause damage to the catalyst system. Yeah, I know to immediately stop when the engine light is blinking... My wife was annoyed that I had to get someone else to give her a ride to work, but I have always told her to instantly turn the engine off if the light ever blinks. It's the 2.0T motor. I actually have a coil pack puller I ordered from ECS Tuning a looong time ago. I think I'll try swapping #1 and #2 to see if the code changes. Edit: From what I've read, #1 cylinder is closest to the timing belt (passenger side)? Kashwashwa fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Dec 25, 2012 |
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Dec 25, 2012 17:51
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Owen Wilsons Nose posted:My jetta smells like a box of old crayons. Is this from the superior german adhesives? And how can I get rid of the smell? I'm assuming you have a mk4? It's a pretty common issue with the manuals. Some adhesive used with the shift boot or something along those lines. Not sure of a way to get rid of it.
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Dec 25, 2012 18:27
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I've heard on good authority that a specific misfire code (e.g. P0301, as opposed to P0300 random misfire) is often attributed to a wiring problem.
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Dec 25, 2012 18:43
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Hmm... well I can't test the coil packs now anyway. I cracked the lovely plastic engine cover in three places trying to get it off, because the grommets or whatever are so insanely tight in the cold.
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Dec 25, 2012 18:45
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Kashwashwa posted:It's the 2.0T motor. Yes, left to right 1-2-3-4 (when you are standing in front of the car). Don't forget to pull the plug. Remember that a misfiring plug typically get fouled. If you just switch and intermittent #1 coil to #2 and do thing else you won't know if the intermittent coil is behaving while you continue to misfire on #1 due to a nasty fouled plug on #1 that was caused by the coil that used to be there.
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Dec 25, 2012 18:46
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Motronic posted:Yes, left to right 1-2-3-4 (when you are standing in front of the car). Yeah, good point.
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Dec 25, 2012 18:55
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fknlo posted:I'm assuming you have a mk4? It's a pretty common issue with the manuals. Some adhesive used with the shift boot or something along those lines. Not sure of a way to get rid of it. drat right on the nose. Guess it is common in warm areas of the country(I live in FL.)to have the waxy coating they dipped the entire car in to melt and stink forever. Anyone want to buy a mk4 gli?
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Dec 25, 2012 22:30
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Owen Wilsons Nose posted:drat right on the nose. Guess it is common in warm areas of the country(I live in FL.)to have the waxy coating they dipped the entire car in to melt and stink forever. Anyone want to buy a mk4 gli? My mk4 GLI was one of the best cars I ever owned. It did like to leak out whatever that poo poo they put in the doors every summer though. Always cracked me up when I'd see an MK4 with tons of that goo running down the outside of the car because they didn't clean it out of the door sills. Mine only smelled like crayons for the first year or 3.
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Dec 26, 2012 15:53
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So just to be clear for my 2010 GTI's 40k service I can just change the cabin/intake filters on my own and ask an indie shop to change the oil, oil filter, fuel filter, rotate the tires, and call it a day? I live in an apartment and can't really do all that much on my own.
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Dec 26, 2012 23:02
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Residency Evil posted:So just to be clear for my 2010 GTI's 40k service I can just change the cabin/intake filters on my own and ask an indie shop to change the oil, oil filter, fuel filter, rotate the tires, and call it a day? I live in an apartment and can't really do all that much on my own. Sounds right to me. Doing my oil myself stopped being worth it to me about six years ago, easier/cheaper for me to just pay some shop instead.
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Dec 26, 2012 23:10
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If you have the DSG, 40k is time for that service as well. That can be fairly expensive for just the fluid. Edit: Spark plugs might be 40k or 60k, check your manual.
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Dec 27, 2012 03:36
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So, the other night I got some sweet air in my 2001 Passat. I was on a trip I've made a million loving times and I guess I was lost in thought, because when the turn lane ended, I declined to switch lanes, and ramped off a concrete lane separator into the grassy median.  I don't even know what to do. I had to leave for loving Christmas so the thing is just sitting, eviscerated, at the end of my cul-de-sac at home. Haven't popped the hood yet since the latch got hosed, but the wheels are both jacked, one of them dragged when they loaded it onto the flatbed, the oil pan is an open fountain, and the radiator lays visible under the front fender like the intestines of a dragged corpse. But it is otherwise the most pristine-looking total I have ever seen. Not really sure what I'm looking for any of you to tell me. Pour out a liter of castrol for my dear departed companion, I guess. I am entertaining thoughts of buying a still-running but beat-to-poo poo analogue of the same car and transposing all of my nice leather seats and the basically unharmed body of the one I have onto the new acquisition. I think I just want to turn a wrench on it somehow, like, in self-flagellation, you know? But somebody lay some thoughts on me, because I am feeling sort of depressed and indecisive and need the authoritative voice of a car guy to inspire me.
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Dec 27, 2012 09:32
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The good news is you have collision insurance...right?
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Dec 27, 2012 15:23
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I took my car to a shop in town - turned out cyl 1 and cyl 4 both had dead coil packs. $25 each, and one hour of labor wasn't too bad to stomach. Also, I really did crack the poo poo out of my engine cover so that I think it may be possible for air to get into the engine without going through the air filter. I noticed that for some reason the autotech CAI is like $100 right now... http://www.autotech.com/category/cold-air-intakes.html?fromcat=jetta-mkv-2t
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Dec 28, 2012 16:02
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Kashwashwa posted:Also, I really did crack the poo poo out of my engine cover so that I think it may be possible for air to get into the engine without going through the air filter. Your engine cover is a plastic trim piece that has nothing to do with intake air. Do you mean you've cracked part of the air filter box? And your car already has a CAI from the factory.
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Dec 28, 2012 16:10
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Motronic posted:Your engine cover is a plastic trim piece that has nothing to do with intake air. Do you mean you've cracked part of the air filter box? The air filter is a rectangular one that fits inside of the engine cover. The crack that now exists down the engine cover has revealed a space where I can actually see the air filter, and has opened up a space above and below the air filter where it seems like dirty air could enter the engine. 
Kashwashwa fucked around with this message at 16:38 on Dec 28, 2012 |
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Dec 28, 2012 16:34
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Kashwashwa posted:The air filter is a rectangular one that fits inside of the engine cover. The crack that now exists down the engine cover has revealed a space where I can actually see the air filter, and has opened up a space above and below the air filter where it seems like dirty air could enter the engine. Then go get the proper parts from the salvage yard for $30 or patch the cracks (this is a valid place to use JB weld or lay some fiberglass down). Aftermarket CAIs with cone filters on them are generally a bad idea.
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Dec 28, 2012 17:02
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I have a 2000 Golf TDI that seems to be going through rear pads faster than it should, and only the inner ones. Two summers ago I replaced the rear pads (all four) after two long road trips. Brake light came on last week and was low on fluid, inside right rear pad is shot and left inside is almost done all the other pads have plenty of life left. I don't have the mileage I replaced the pads but I'm guessing it was under 20k ago. Front pads are still the ones that I bought it with 43k miles ago. Should I rebuild the calipers when I swap the pads this time?
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Jan 4, 2013 17:19
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I've got a 2012 Jetta TDI Premium, no nav. I'm having this weird issue with my Bluetooth music on my Iphone 4S IOS 6.x enabling itself and streaming Bluetooth music whenever I start the car. I'm not on the Media screen on my entertainment display. It is sporadic but seems to do it 90% of the time. I've tested that if I don't have music loaded in my phones library it doesn't do it(recommended on tdiclub). Any ideas how to get this to stop?
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Jan 4, 2013 17:39
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I'm going to look at a 2007 Passat Wagon tomorrow, 2.0T Tiptronic, 80k, single owner old couple, dealer-maintained at every service interval with full records. Other than the usual interior/electrical/mechanical/suspension inspection items, are there any particular problem areas that I should pay close attention to?
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Jan 4, 2013 17:48
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NitroSpazzz posted:I have a 2000 Golf TDI that seems to be going through rear pads faster than it should, and only the inner ones. Two summers ago I replaced the rear pads (all four) after two long road trips. Brake light came on last week and was low on fluid, inside right rear pad is shot and left inside is almost done all the other pads have plenty of life left. Did you take off the boots and grease the pins? You should do that every time. They sell the boots separately in case you destroy them taking them off.
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Jan 4, 2013 18:00
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Virigoth posted:I've got a 2012 Jetta TDI Premium, no nav. I'm having this weird issue with my Bluetooth music on my Iphone 4S IOS 6.x enabling itself and streaming Bluetooth music whenever I start the car. I'm not on the Media screen on my entertainment display. It is sporadic but seems to do it 90% of the time. I've tested that if I don't have music loaded in my phones library it doesn't do it(recommended on tdiclub). Any ideas how to get this to stop? I had the same thing happening to me, with the podcast app (also 2012 Jetta TDI and iPhone 4S). Just suddenly started happening one day, couldn't figure it out either. I then threw my phone in the toilet and had it replaced, and it hasn't happened since.
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Jan 4, 2013 18:06
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Billy Tully posted:Did you take off the boots and grease the pins? You should do that every time. They sell the boots separately in case you destroy them taking them off. Pretty sure I did since I do on every other car/bike. I'll make sure I do this time and make sure everything looks good and moves like it should...don't worry I'm not going to hit the brake pedal with the caliper hanging loose.
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Jan 4, 2013 19:02
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