|
yergacheffe posted:My '03 manual only mentions being able to toggle between miles and km, but nothing about switching units of the temp gauge. Try the factory service manual - it's online if you google it. Failing that, maybe call your dealer or Suzuki USA direct.
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 10:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 06:04 |
|
|
yergacheffe posted:My '03 manual only mentions being able to toggle between miles and km, but nothing about switching units of the temp gauge. Bizarrely the Shiver is the exact opposite way round - you can change temperature units from the main menu but have to go into the service menu (with special super-secret code that only every single owner knows) to change between miles and kms.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 11:33
|
|
|
Doesn't look like it's possible. Just have to learn to mentally convert farenheit I guess.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2012 21:22
|
|
|
I've stashed my registration in my bikes toolbox, figuring that's a good place since it's locked. Still, someone savvy enough to hotwire or otherwise steal the bike can probably pop that thing open without the key. I suppose I could carry it in my wallet but I'm always worried about losing the drat thing. Is there some other place I'm not thinking of? Also saddlebags, I'd like to grab one. I could use a bit of storage for my work shoes and maybe another similar sized item, but that's about all that would need to fit. A backpack might be a better idea? If I do the saddlebag, is there much a different between a leather one and whatever the others are?
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 05:25
|
|
|
I put the registration and insurance card folded up in the inside pocket of my jacket. It's always on me when I'm riding the bike.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 05:43
|
|
|
I've just stashed my registration in with the emergency toolkit under the seat. I'm really not worried about it, especially since it lives in a garage for the most part. But even if someone did steal the bike or break open the seat there's not really that much someone could do with just the registration besides cause the minor headache of getting it reprinted by the DMV.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 09:14
|
|
|
What would be the best tires for a 1983 Suzuki GS650L? I have a 30 minute commute with her, use her as often as I can and I am planning a summer trip from NH to VA. Circa 600-800 miles on country highways, non-toll highways and back-roads.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 11:40
|
|
|
Lothire posted:I've stashed my registration in my bikes toolbox, figuring that's a good place since it's locked. Still, someone savvy enough to hotwire or otherwise steal the bike can probably pop that thing open without the key. I suppose I could carry it in my wallet but I'm always worried about losing the drat thing. Is there some other place I'm not thinking of? You can photocopy the registration and keep the original at home.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 15:14
|
|
|
I've had some gas sitting in a red plastic jerrycan for let's say over 2 months. Is the gas bad? It wasn't until I started reading CA that I realized there was such a thing as "bad gas".
epswing fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Dec 29, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 17:56
|
|
|
epalm posted:I've had some gas sitting in a red plastic jerrycan for let's say over 2 months. Is the gas bad? It wasn't until I started reading CA that I realized there was such a thing as "bad gas". It's fine, I even find the claims that one should put preservatives in the gas for winter storage dubious, people like my dad rid their bikes like three times a year and keep the gas in it with no ill effects. Unless US gas is way different than that in Europe. I'd be maybe slightly worried about the process of the gas aging leaving residue on carb bits, but as it was in a jerry can even that's a non issue.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 18:27
|
|
|
ElMaligno posted:What would be the best tires for a 1983 Suzuki GS650L? I have a 30 minute commute with her, use her as often as I can and I am planning a summer trip from NH to VA. Circa 600-800 miles on country highways, non-toll highways and back-roads. Bridgestone BT45 Battlax or Avon AM26 Roadrider. epalm posted:I've had some gas sitting in a red plastic jerrycan for let's say over 2 months. Is the gas bad? It wasn't until I started reading CA that I realized there was such a thing as "bad gas". Purely anecdotal, but I've had gasoline around for ~18 months before it began to smell "off". It's fine for at least a year.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 18:35
|
|
|
ElMaligno posted:What would be the best tires for a 1983 Suzuki GS650L? I have a 30 minute commute with her, use her as often as I can and I am planning a summer trip from NH to VA. Circa 600-800 miles on country highways, non-toll highways and back-roads. BT-45s were the only tires I could actually find for my 80s bike but I liked them fine. Still bias ply but by all accounts still way, way better than anything contemporary.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 18:54
|
|
|
I own a '98 Ducati Monster and while it is tons of fun to ride, it's also a great source of frustration and costing me a fortune in repairs and maintenance. Since this summer it's gotten harder and harder to get it started and now it basicly refuses to start. I suspect its a sparkplug thing, since the starter and electricity seem to be fine. Is changing sparkplugs something that can be easily done yourself, even if you're a tech moron? I own basic stuff like (deep) wrenches, but nothing fancy like a torgue wrench. Or is it just better to get it to the shop to let them figure out if there's a bigger issue going on with the bike?
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 19:08
|
|
|
Paidor posted:I own a '98 Ducati Monster and while it is tons of fun to ride, it's also a great source of frustration and costing me a fortune in repairs and maintenance. Since this summer it's gotten harder and harder to get it started and now it basicly refuses to start. I suspect its a sparkplug thing, since the starter and electricity seem to be fine. Changing spark plugs is one of the easiest jobs there is, though it all depends on how accessible the plugs are and if you have the proper array of tools to get to them. On my Buell I can use a standard 16mm box wrench for the front plug, but have to use a just-long-enough spark plug wrench and a larger box wrench that fits that to change the rear one; it all depends on the bike. Make sure you clean the area around the plugs as well as possible, don't want crap falling into the cylinder. Spin the new plugs in finger-tight and then tighten another quarter turn. Edit: Also, you say the starter and electrics are fine, but have you checked whether the fuel system's in order and if there aren't any intake leaks? A spark plug gradually going so bad the engine refuses to start sounds kind of dubious to me. High Protein fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Dec 29, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 19:15
|
|
|
High Protein posted:Changing spark plugs is one of the easiest jobs there is, though it all depends on how accessible the plugs are and if you have the proper array of tools to get to them. On my Buell I can use a standard 16mm box wrench for the front plug, but have to use a just-long-enough spark plug wrench and a larger box wrench that fits that to change the rear one; it all depends on the bike. Thats a good point, it's probably more likely the messed up plugs are a result of something else. I suppose I could change them anyways and if the plugs show signs of fuel leakage I can always bring it to the shop. Thanks for the answer!
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 19:29
|
|
|
High Protein posted:It's fine, I even find the claims that one should put preservatives in the gas for winter storage dubious, people like my dad rid their bikes like three times a year and keep the gas in it with no ill effects. Unless US gas is way different than that in Europe. I'd be maybe slightly worried about the process of the gas aging leaving residue on carb bits, but as it was in a jerry can even that's a non issue. Do you have ethanol in the gas in Europe? Most gas in the USA has at least 3% ethanol in it and it's common to find 15%. Ethanol is hygroscopic, so if you leave the gas somewhere vented to the atmosphere (say, a vented motorcycle gas tank) it will gradually absorb water and dilute the fuel, causing problems. That process is usually only an actual problem on boats, though, and generally won't happen at all inside a full, sealed jerican or with ethanol-free gas. If you're worried about varnish clogging up your carbs, start the engine and run it for 20 minutes every couple of weeks. Gasoline varnish is, of course, soluble in gasoline, so moving fluids through the passages tends to clean them out.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 19:35
|
|
|
Paidor posted:Thats a good point, it's probably more likely the messed up plugs are a result of something else. I suppose I could change them anyways and if the plugs show signs of fuel leakage I can always bring it to the shop. Thanks for the answer! Yeah it's definitely worth the effort to take a look at the plugs to see if they tell you anything about the rest of the bike; lean condition might be an issue with carb boots for example, or the plugs could be fouled from running too rich. Sagebrush posted:If you're worried about varnish clogging up your carbs, start the engine and run it for 20 minutes every couple of weeks. Gasoline varnish is, of course, soluble in gasoline, so moving fluids through the passages tends to clean them out. Yeah we've got 5% ethanol here and yeah, even while in 'winter storage' I still make a point of riding the bike until it's warmed up every couple of weeks to keep the juices flowing, boil off moisture etc.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 19:43
|
|
|
We've had bikes at our shop, brand new scooters, sitting in the showroom with bad gas issues. On one particular example that no one wanted to buy for about a year I personally had to clean the carb out twice because of congealed ethanol gas clogging the idle jet. A thin layer of jello-like stuff starts to form in the bottom of the float bowl. Depending on the engine (like scooters with small jets) it can be quite a problem if you let it sit for more than a few months. This is E10 gas in our area, I believe.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 20:02
|
|
Paidor posted:I own a '98 Ducati Monster and while it is tons of fun to ride, it's also a great source of frustration and costing me a fortune in repairs and maintenance. Since this summer it's gotten harder and harder to get it started and now it basicly refuses to start. I suspect its a sparkplug thing, since the starter and electricity seem to be fine. How many miles? You should check the valves. That's the most obvious culprit when a bike becomes harder and harder to start over a long time. They start to close up and get tighter over time making starting harder.
|
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 21:10
|
|
|
Bucephalus posted:Bridgestone BT45 Battlax or Avon AM26 Roadrider. The problem is that it begins to de-emulsify. Petrol/gasoline is a pretty complex mix of actual petroleum, all sorts of additives, and a fair chunk of detergent to keep the additives in solution and also so any water that gets in is carried through and burnt rather than accumulating at the bottom of the tank and causing problems. If the fuel's been kept in an air-tight container (petrol tanks on vehicles are not air-tight) then all you should need to do is shake it up a bit and you'll be fine. If it's been in your fuel tank, especially if it's been outside through a few hundred day/night cycles, as well as de-emulsifying the lightest additives (ethanol and isopropanol) will have evaporated off, which - as the isopropanol is there to help keep the water in solution - will make everything else much worse. In particular all of the water that will have condensed in over those day/night cycles, especially if the temperature goes below freezing, will be sitting at the bottom of your tank, which is the most common cause of people citing "bad gas". In that case your best bet is to chuck some isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) into the tank - about 1:20 will be fine - and give it a good stir with a clean stick, then get some fresh fuel in the tank as soon as possible. Also always store bikes with either a completely full or completely empty tank, and as a general rule of thumb fill your tank to the brim and then run it as low as you dare as often as possible to stop crap accumulating at the bottom.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 21:16
|
|
|
JP Money posted:How many miles? You should check the valves. That's the most obvious culprit when a bike becomes harder and harder to start over a long time. They start to close up and get tighter over time making starting harder. About 21,000 miles, I bought it 2.5 years ago with 12k on the counter. Because it was imported and there was no history on services, I decided last winter to get the valves replaced and properly calibrated at a Ducati specialist, just to be safe. Last year's summer i got stranded in Italy when the engine just called it quits while driving (slowly), and refused to start after. This got solved by just replacing the sparkplugs (not by me), so maybe it just consumes parkplugs at an alarming rate as a feature. The bike has such a myriad of issues and problems, but it is so charming I cannot refuse to pour more money into it. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2012 23:20
|
|
|
Something is probably very wrong if you have to replace them, I'd expect just an adjustment. You're probably due for one after about 10k miles anyway, it's cheap insurance.
|
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 02:01
|
|
|
Paidor posted:About 21,000 miles, I bought it 2.5 years ago with 12k on the counter. Because it was imported and there was no history on services, I decided last winter to get the valves replaced and properly calibrated at a Ducati specialist, just to be safe. Did the specialist recommend this? It seems like a massive overreaction to not having a service history.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 02:46
|
|
|
Paidor posted:About 21,000 miles, I bought it 2.5 years ago with 12k on the counter. Because it was imported and there was no history on services, I decided last winter to get the valves replaced and properly calibrated at a Ducati specialist, just to be safe. Where are you at bro? I think you need to hang out with some gearheads and begin the absorption process. Paying mechanics is fine for some things (I just dropped $800+ on my bike) but a lot of stuff you can do yourself. Understanding what all is going on and how it works can also help you troubleshoot issues and save yourself money. lovely mechanics that want to spend your money are a dime a dozen, knowing a bit of basic maintenance and theory can help you spot some of these guys too. Check out: http://www.dansmc.com/MC_repaircourse.htm Take your time with it, if there is a goon nearby from CA that can just hang out and explain some things it will seriously open your mind.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 02:57
|
|
|
In 2 words, gently caress desmodromics.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 04:00
|
|
|
Most of the major bike manufacturers today have figured out how to make engines turn 20,000+ RPM with plain old springs. Is there an actual valid reason that Ducati still does the desmodromic stuff, or is it just 911-style stubbornness?
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 04:45
|
|
|
Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Check out: http://www.dansmc.com/MC_repaircourse.htm Take your time with it, if there is a goon nearby from CA that can just hang out and explain some things it will seriously open your mind. I started reading this website last year, but couldn't get past the "jesus god lord savior bible" stuff, randomly interspersed through the topics. quote:Use a factory shop manual and you will never go wrong. quote:If the valves are tight, they could be leaking compression. If the valves are tight, reset them to the proper clearance and test again. if your compression comes back don't thank your luck, thank Jesus ! He just saved you an engine rebuild. 
epswing fucked around with this message at 05:38 on Dec 30, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 05:26
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Most of the major bike manufacturers today have figured out how to make engines turn 20,000+ RPM with plain old springs. Is there an actual valid reason that Ducati still does the desmodromic stuff, or is it just 911-style stubbornness? I have to imagine its pure stubbornness. Look at how long it took them to ditch the dry clutch.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 06:03
|
|
|
epalm posted:I started reading this website last year, but couldn't get past the "jesus god lord savior bible" stuff, randomly interspersed through the topics.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 06:21
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Most of the major bike manufacturers today have figured out how to make engines turn 20,000+ RPM with plain old springs. Is there an actual valid reason that Ducati still does the desmodromic stuff, or is it just 911-style stubbornness? That's not true - pneumatic valves exist in GP partly because of the RPMs the bikes were reaching. Desmo valves were and still are used in the in the GP bike because of these performance capabilities.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 07:17
|
|
|
Not to mention, springs don't scale very well. A 250cc with valvesprings has no problem revving to 20k because the valves are relatively small and light; a literbike has larger springs and valves and avoiding float becomes a challenge of making the valvesprings as heavy as possible without shaving off the cam lobes. I'm pretty sure this is one of the reasons BMW use roller rocker arm style lifters like a car instead of bucket tappets on the s1000rr. It was a big deal when they first revealed it and the bike certainly has one of the most powerful production engines in it's class. My unscientific 2c.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 10:02
|
|
|
Ducati is awesome. There's that.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 10:46
|
|
|
nsaP posted:Ducati is awesome. There's that. I almost bought a 748 once but got a honda instead 
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 10:50
|
|
|
Hey guys, can you give me a heads up on anything I should be looking out for on a 2007 Ninja ZX6R, there's one about an hour away that I'm going to look at for my open class license bike and I'd like to be able to check it out and know what I'm looking for if there's any odd little issues those bikes have while I'm there. It's been used as a commuter for the past 2 years by the current owner and was just recently serviced for its 30km service and had another done at 31.5k.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 12:34
|
|
|
quote:Something is probably very wrong if you have to replace them, I'd expect just an adjustment. You're probably due for one after about 10k miles anyway, it's cheap insurance. quote:Did the specialist recommend this? It seems like a massive overreaction to not having a service history. Yes, he told me every 10k KM the valves had to be readjusted. Maybe there's some confusion, though. The whole desmo valve system didnt get replaced, just parts of it (like gaskets and rings). quote:Where are you at bro? I think you need to hang out with some gearheads and begin the absorption process. Paying mechanics is fine for some things (I just dropped $800+ on my bike) but a lot of stuff you can do yourself. Understanding what all is going on and how it works can also help you troubleshoot issues and save yourself money. lovely mechanics that want to spend your money are a dime a dozen, knowing a bit of basic maintenance and theory can help you spot some of these guys too. I live in the Netherlands. A coworker of mine lives nearby and has a big garage with tools, so maybe this is a good time as any to take on his offer to fiddle around with my bike together. Thanks for the link by the way, I'll do some reading up on basic stuff
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 15:51
|
|
|
Paidor posted:Yes, he told me every 10k KM the valves had to be readjusted. Maybe there's some confusion, though. The whole desmo valve system didnt get replaced, just parts of it (like gaskets and rings).
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 16:06
|
|
|
Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I dunno, my 2v is at 26k and when I was adjusting the valves I could feel quite a lot of play between the valve and the guide. I think it's going to need some real head work before too long. Italian character I assume. Fixed 
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 21:13
|
|
|
How feasible is a motorcycle as a single form of transportation? I live in military barracks and have literally everything I need for purchase right across the street from me. The bike would be used mostly for transportation to and from work (~2.5 miles away) and forays into the town and countryside. Also the weather here currently averages ~48 degrees with occasional light rain here and there. Basically, what I need is someone to tell me I'm either an idiot for considering something like that or tips on how to manage. My whole reasoning behind considering going bike only is I hate cars.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2012 00:03
|
|
|
If all you do is haul your rear end around then yeah, it's perfectly fine if you have budget for year-round gear. If you need to transport 4x8s of plywood, maybe not. Is that a good answer or can you provide more detail on what you want, and want to know?
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2012 00:10
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 06:04 |
|
|
Megabuttes posted:How feasible is a motorcycle as a single form of transportation? I live in military barracks and have literally everything I need for purchase right across the street from me. The bike would be used mostly for transportation to and from work (~2.5 miles away) and forays into the town and countryside. Also the weather here currently averages ~48 degrees with occasional light rain here and there. I use my bike as my sole transport. I do have a truck, but it's pretty much my wifes. I ride rain or shine, depending on your lifestyle it can definitely work. I'd invest in a really good backpack, a molly system or something works well. There's 2 packs I ride with, one is a mid size bag like an overnight-2 day camping pack the other is my big bag that's for a week or more. I use them for everything from hardware store runs to groceries and carrying my laptop/work shoes. Go for it dude!
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2012 00:14
|
|