|
Colonel K posted:only the very late model classics had a borg warner, my classic certainly has a lt230. ah. Pretty much all NAS spec trucks have em sans the 87 and 88 models. Even if it has the B/W. the Lt230 swaps in really easy.
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 01:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 07:48 |
|
|
The transfer in my cruiser is a Full time 4wd with lockable centre diff and low range, although toyota did the infuriating thing of making the transfer ECU (diff lock is electronic, low/hi is manual) lock the centre diff whenever you put it into low range. So i pulled the signal pin to the ECU. Now i can reverse trailers on sealed surfaces in low range. Or go hooning through underground carparks (when my roof rack is off!) in low range to get the exhaust barking
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 11:41
|
|
|
I am looking for some help in identifying the suspension currently on the 4runner I am buying. It was installed before the guy I am buying it from bought the truck. It is Rancho of some sort and he is saying it is a 6" lift. I've taken some (rather lovely) pictures of the rear and a couple of the front. My goals with the truck are more for a daily driver and light offroad - nothing that I need a lot of lift for, plus I would like to minimize strain on the drive train from weird angles, etc. Front:   Rear    Bonus pic in primer  What I'm looking for is either lowering ride height using what is there or changing the appropriate component to lower the truck to ~0-2" higher than stock. Thus, I am wondering if someone can help point me in the right direction, as I really don't know much about truck suspension. In parallel I am reading up on yotatech, etc. If additional photos would help let me know... Edit - resized the pics Timmy Cruise fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Dec 30, 2012 |
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 18:50
|
|
|
Is it torsion bars on the front? Crank them back down and move the axle to spring-under instead of spring-over?
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 19:12
|
|
|
Yes, it is 1987, so it has the IFS with Torsion bars. Would the rear originally be axle over spring?
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2012 19:46
|
|
|
Timmy Cruise posted:Yes, it is 1987, so it has the IFS with Torsion bars. I'm not convinced that it has a Rancho lift kit on it, at least not on the front end. The front suspension looks like the stock upper arms (Rancho used their own upper arms), and it looks like the stock lower brackets (a Rancho lift included diff-lowering brackets that also dropped the lower arm mounting points). So it doesn't have the "bracket" lift kit that was common on 80s/90's IFS toyotas that was usually only a 3" (Rancho) or 4" (most other companies) kit. It *might* have the torsion bars on the IFS cranked up, and they might have replaced the stock torsion bars with Rancho bars, but a torsion bar crank on that generation was only good for 1-2" of lift at most, certainly not 6". The rear end was spring-over-axle from the factory. But if this is on a 4runner, then I think those rear springs must be aftermarket lift springs, because the 4runner rear leafs would be collapsed nearly flat by this age. The shackles are still the factory shackles on those springs. 3" lift springs were available from some companies like Rancho. Many other companies used lift blocks in the rear, but I believe Rancho offered real lift springs. It may also have a body lift kit on it, but it's hard to tell from the photos. Based on the shots of the upper A-arm area, I'm going to say it does have a body lift. That could be anywhere from 1" to 3", with 3" body lifts being much more common back in the day. So if the guy is exaggerating a bit on the suspension lift, and there is a 3" body lift, then he could be bullshitting his way up to 6" of total lift. If the truck has manual front hubs, then the front CV's haven't been spinning at those steep angles most of the time, which is good. The cranked torsion bars will put the cv's at a steeper-than-optimal running angle which can eat up boots, but that's really only an issue when the truck has drive plates instead of manual hubs. Later trucks got "shift-on-the-fly" 4wd with drive plates. The lift in the rear might have induced a driveline vibration, but the 4runners and trucks were generally pretty good about not vibrating with a mild lift. Not like a short wheelbase Jeep would, for example. Take it for a drive, get it up above 50mph, and listen/feel for driveline vibration. If it's there, it will be very obvious, not a subtle thing. You could lower the front torsion bar crank yourself (barring horrible rust on the bolts). They're back on the frame near the transfer case crossmember on the inner side of the frame.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2012 01:05
|
|
|
I recently picked up an '87 4runner as well. It's also got some sort of lift. I was assuming the torsion bars were cranked up a little bit but it also has relatively new shocks front and rear. The rear has lift blocks that I'd like to change out eventually but this will primarily be a summer driver and light off roading for now. I did notice a rattling noise and vibration under the driver's seat when I was driving around last weekend with the hubs locked in. With the hubs unlocked the vibration never happens, but locked it will periodically act up whether it's in four wheel drive or not. A friend suggested it may be the CV joint. Any other ideas? 
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2012 16:20
|
|
|
^^ That would be the first thing I would think of as well, but I'm really not familiar with these yet.murphle posted:I'm not convinced that it has a Rancho lift kit on it, at least not on the front end. I *think* it says "black diamond" on the front shock, so I think you are right. The more I think about it, the more 6" sounds really high.  Keeping in mind the front fender has had some metal cut out for the flares, I don't think it looks that high in comparison to stock? On the rear, I am wondering if it has had an add-a-leaf put in, since there are 4 leafs plus the overload, rear end opposed to the three shown in the photo of the stock springs in this: http://www.yotatech.com/f128/rancho-add-leafs-1st-gen-4runner-76338/ Anyway, I'm going over tomorrow to help assemble interior stuff, so I'll get more info and photos then.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2012 18:05
|
|
|
Timmy Cruise posted:
Looking at the new pic, I still suspect there's a body lift in there, despite the horrible picture quality (time for a new phone?). I see some daylight between the inner fender and top of the frame by the front tire. Normally that would be covered by rubber flaps that hang down and overlap the frame slightly. In this case, those flaps might just be missing due to old age, or it might have a 3" body lift, in which case the rubber flaps no longer hang down to cover the frame, and you can see daylight. In the rear fender well, the bottom of the body floor should be within an inch or so of the top of the frame, not really enough room to get your hand between the two. If it's 3" body-lifted, you can stick your hand in on top of the frame easily. I agree that this truck probably does just have an add-a-leaf added into the stock rear springs. The rest of that pack looks stock, but that 4th arched leaf isn't original. By the way, someone forgot to put the bumpstops back on top of the spring when they added the leaf, probably because the stock u-bolts were just barely too short. Bumpstops are a nice thing to have if you ever carry any weight (camping gear) and drive rough roads. skinner posted:I did notice a rattling noise and vibration under the driver's seat when I was driving around last weekend with the hubs locked in. With the hubs unlocked the vibration never happens, but locked it will periodically act up whether it's in four wheel drive or not. A friend suggested it may be the CV joint. Any other ideas? Agreed, check the CV joint at the transfer case end of the front driveshaft, though it's on the passenger side, not under the drivers seat, assuming it's a proper left-hand drive vehicle. It will be spinning when the front hubs are locked, even if you haven't shifted the transfer case lever out of 2wd. The exhaust system runs down the driver's side of the truck, and it could be vibrating against a heat shield, but that doesn't jive with the fact that it only happens with locked hubs.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2012 23:17
|
|
|
murphle posted:Looking at the new pic, I still suspect there's a body lift in there, despite the horrible picture quality (time for a new phone?). I see some daylight between the inner fender and top of the frame by the front tire. Normally that would be covered by rubber flaps that hang down and overlap the frame slightly. In this case, those flaps might just be missing due to old age, or it might have a 3" body lift, in which case the rubber flaps no longer hang down to cover the frame, and you can see daylight. My phone's camera sucks for low-light pics... murphle posted:In the rear fender well, the bottom of the body floor should be within an inch or so of the top of the frame, not really enough room to get your hand between the two. If it's 3" body-lifted, you can stick your hand in on top of the frame easily. I'll check here too tomorrow. I didn't even notice the bump stops. I'll have to look into that.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2012 23:46
|
|
|
Yo dudes. Happy new year and all that. I have a technical question that requires general 4x4 knowledge. I read that the Lada Niva has a 42L tank and gets between 315-350km out of it, even with its 1.6L engine. WHY IS IT SO? Is it because it's a constant 4x4 setup? I know the transfer case is gear drive with H/L range and a diff lock lever for offroad if that helps. Beyond that I just want to understand how it can get such terrible economy.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2013 00:01
|
|
|
I would imagine so. I also wonder how old the engine design itself is. That, plus not having a ton of power to move the 1200 kg around (only 59 kw ~ 80 hp) probably doesn't help.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2013 02:04
|
|
|
.
Fuelslt1 fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Nov 28, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2013 03:37
|
|
|
Timmy Cruise posted:I would imagine so. Pretty old. Fiat OHC engine. The P/W ratio isn't that bad considering. That's more than my VW camper had. From the factory I think that was something like 64HP and it's not exactly the lightest or most aerodynamic thing. That's what's fascinating me about the economy. Apparently the Fiat DOHC engines can fit. From what I can understand the issue with putting in a different engine / transmission combo is the small engine bay and short transmission. My goal is to get hold of a stock one to drive, and a second to be a bit more liberal with. Kind of like the VW.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2013 06:18
|
|
|
Is the engine just a crummy inefficient design, or is it a crummy inefficient carb or fuel injection system? The latter (tune or replace fuel management system) is probably easier to improve.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2013 06:23
|
|
|
kastein posted:Is the engine just a crummy inefficient design, or is it a crummy inefficient carb or fuel injection system? The latter (tune or replace fuel management system) is probably easier to improve. That's what I've been wondering. I asked about the crappy economy and was told that's just what they are like. I have trouble accepting that and really want to get my hands on one to see what I can do about that. Because really that motor is of the same era as the 302W in the Fairlane and that gets better economy. Sure it has EFI etc. added but a Windsor is a Windsor.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2013 06:36
|
|
|
Wikipedia says they can get over 30mpg (8.25L/100km is the spec rate) so I'm not sure what's going on, that seems quite reasonable fuel economy to me. Especially for a 30 year old carbed 4x4 from the soviet bloc.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2013 07:01
|
|
|
kastein posted:Wikipedia says they can get over 30mpg (8.25L/100km is the spec rate) so I'm not sure what's going on, that seems quite reasonable fuel economy to me. Especially for a 30 year old carbed 4x4 from the soviet bloc. That's interesting. I read the economy figures on this scan of an old article: http://ladaniva.co.uk/baxter/resources/Aussie_Niva_Buyers_Guide.htm and when I asked about whether that was right I was told it sounded about right.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2013 07:33
|
|
|
Self reply here. I think I may have found my answer to the economy question. If you are prone to migraines DO NOT OPEN THAT LINK. Severe 1990s web design stone texture background alert. http://ladanivasociety.webs.com/ They quote 5.9L/100km on a 1700 FI motor. Which if that's true is pretty impressive. It also says to me that they either needed the extra engine capacity to get out of engine overwork zone or the carburettor was truly terrible. Or the figures are just plain wrong.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2013 23:33
|
|
|
This chap recently started importing Nivas back into the UK again. http://www.markkey.co.uk/nivacar.html Unfortunately they seem to be the euro V emissions nonsense so that probably hurts performance and economy. He claims 33mpg which I assume will be in imperial units so a little more in US mpg terms.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2013 01:02
|
|
|
Colonel K posted:This chap recently started importing Nivas back into the UK again. http://www.markkey.co.uk/nivacar.html Unfortunately they seem to be the euro V emissions nonsense so that probably hurts performance and economy. Actually it would be less US gallons, there are 1.2 US gallons in an imperial gallon. So a car that gets 33 miles per imperial gallon would only be 27.5mpg US.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2013 02:19
|
|
|
chrisgt posted:Actually it would be less US gallons, there are 1.2 US gallons in an imperial gallon. So a car that gets 33 miles per imperial gallon would only be 27.5mpg US. You're quite right, I've been using us gallons per hour a bit recently and didn't think about it being a denominator. Nonetheless, I'd have thought the high 20's to low 30's would be a reasonable economy range for the niva. They are small, solid and mechanically basic. I think this guy is trying to flog them to farmers as a cheap farm hack.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2013 02:26
|
|
|
Colonel K posted:This chap recently started importing Nivas back into the UK again. http://www.markkey.co.uk/nivacar.html Unfortunately they seem to be the euro V emissions nonsense so that probably hurts performance and economy. Wait. What? Weight of towed trailer max is listed as 1620kg. I thought their max towing capacity was around 830kg. Holy crap that could tow our caravan in theory. in practice I'd have to be mad. Anyhow I was going to say they still make them http://lada.ru/cgi-bin/models_special.pl Oh, and can't forget ones which I think were made for the U.S. market because... ? http://gmauthority.com/blog/gallery/2011-chevrolet-niva/ I may be wrong but I think they are the same vehicle with an extreme bland-over. stealth edit: 5 door so possibly the same as the 2131. edit again: Sorry. very busy here. Wikipedia posted:GM-AvtoVAZ, a joint venture between AvtoVAZ and General Motors, produces the Chevrolet Niva. The car was previously known as the VAZ-2123 in the design stage. It features an updated body and 1.7-litre gasoline engine with fuel injection. Although the body and the interiors are new, it is still based on the old VAZ 2121 engine, transmission and most mechanicals. Its off-road ability is exemplary compared with many modern budget SUVs, having been designed for tough tundra territory. Now there's and odd couple. General_Failure fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Jan 2, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2013 05:34
|
|
|
. Fuelslt1 fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Nov 28, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2013 06:42
|
|
|
I need some serious help in a hurry. I just replaced the 4wd cable on my 96 s10, and it went into 4wd fine at first but now it won't engage. It is currently stuck in what is essentially 2lo. The gears are cut in half but 4wd won't engage. I thought before that it wasn't engaging because the front wheels weren't turning enough but now it just won't engage at all. I just need to get it into 2hi to get home tomorrow, but my lever is jammed. Rolling or in park and with parking brake on, it won't move. Is my transfer case completely hosed? How can I just get it into 2hi for now?
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2013 07:12
|
|
|
Never even looked at an S10, how does the cable connect to the transfer case? Unconnect it and shift the bellcrank on the transfer case manually into 2hi, drive home, figure it out later. Hell, I've never bothered to put a linkage on my MJ because it was 2wd from the factory, 5-speed bellcrank brackets are hard to find in the junkyard, and I hate the stupid goofy things anyways, they're always acting up. So I just shift it with my thumb from under the truck. One of these years I'll weld up some proper linkages for it, until then, it works.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2013 07:18
|
|
|
I would be able to do that, but I was at a party at a friend's house and the cable doesn't easily come free from the transfer case. I'd have to drop the skid plate and then pry it free from the lever on the transfer case. I think the T-case is hosed anyway. This morning I drove home in 4hi (explain that one) on all sorts of dry pavement and poo poo I shouldn't have because I couldn't for the life of me get it back into 2wd. Somebody please T-bone this piece of poo poo so I can be rid of it once and for all.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2013 14:37
|
|
|
If it goes in 4 hi, what about disconnecting the front drive shaft? 
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2013 18:32
|
|
|
mod sassinator posted:If it goes in 4 hi, what about disconnecting the front drive shaft? That might be my only option at this point. I have to drive back up to my apartment tomorrow (75 miles) and that poo poo isn't gonna happen in 4wd. I jacked the truck up and had my brother push the lever back and forth a couple of times while I was underneath. Lots of difficulty and resistance, but I guess it can reach all the modes. I had to help him jam it back into the 2hi position from underneath, then I took the truck out around the driveway and it's still in 4wd. Should I start looking at the vacuum actuator? Like I said before, when I was trying to shift it into 4wd before it made a sort of light grinding noise like it was trying to engage, but couldn't. And now I guess you don't need to put on the parking brake to shift the transfer case to Neutral, so that's kind of scary. e: New developments. I just got off the phone with my old man, and he said that last time he manually shifted the lever on the t-case to 2hi, it was beyond vertical, closer to 45 degrees, towards the back of the truck. Right now I can only get it to vertical by pushing on the lever and pushing from underneath. I'm going to look around on s10forums and stuff to see what they know about it. Is it possible that my cable was pushing the lever just BEYOND 4hi, into neutral, and that was the rubbing, "almost engaging" sound I was hearing? I'm going to go out and gently caress with it some more, but the only thing I'm worried about it how difficult it is to move that lever. Even if it was out of adjustment, you'd think it would only be difficult to move on one end of travel or the other, not across the whole range. TheFrailNinja fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Jan 6, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2013 00:53
|
|
|
I popped the cable off the t-case and pushed it by hand into the 2hi position. It does move beyond vertical! But now the cable is frozen. Brand new linkage cable is frozen somewhere, because the lever won't even push past 4hi. That's some poo poo. Beyond that, the t-case could be worn out and hosed, but I won't be able to figure that out today.
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2013 18:45
|
|
|
.
Fuelslt1 fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Nov 28, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2013 22:40
|
|
|
I love seeing pics of that Lexus out on the trails. All the Lexus's around here are driven by soccer moms and that's it. It's a nice breath of fresh air.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2013 00:07
|
|
|
I took my Ranger out for the first time over the holidays. We got a good dump of snow and we decided to go out on the logging roads and burn about. After a couple of hours we got back and I managed to get stuck in the driveway. Turned out the hubs were already locked from before, so I actually unlocked them before I engaged the 4x4. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2013 06:28
|
|
|
Got a chance to take the fat lady out for a short run.     
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2013 00:18
|
|
|
Nice. Hope the recovery truck didn't take too long to get out there.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2013 06:05
|
|
|
we got the crane stuck trying to get it out.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2013 06:08
|
|
|
.
Fuelslt1 fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Nov 28, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2013 19:35
|
|
|
Of all the things that could have failed it was the diff? I'm really quite surprised. What lead to that happening?
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2013 21:58
|
|
|
A few days ago a friend called and said he needed help recovering his Jeep. He and a friend of his went out at 2am in one Jeep and got it stuck in hole. Both of them ended up getting wet and had to walk 2 miles back home. This was during some of the coldest weather we've had in years, 12 degrees. A buddy and I load up his Jeep and go to pull him out. We get stuck.  An hour or so of digging and winching and we are free.  About a mile later we come up to the stuck Jeep.    A few hours before we got there a Wrangler tried to pull him out with a strap. The D ring on the Wrangler broke and sent the hook through the rear Window of the Cherokee.  Pretty funny when he opens the door. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIyG6iWacrg We got him winched out in about 15 minutes. Hooked up some jumper cables started it up and he drove it home.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2013 23:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 07:48 |
|
|
I was watching it and thinking "What are those weird things sticking out of the B pillar and tunnel?". Angle changes a little and holy poo poo its ice! That's amazing. Any shots of the winch setup by the way? Rear mounted winches always interest me.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2013 23:18
|
|