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saint gerald posted:Digging about in the trunk trying to pin down my mystery rattle (so far, without success) I happened across these two unplugged connectors. Anyone know what they're for? They're right in front of the battery, the edge of which you can see in the lower left corner of the picture. Power antenna? CD changer?
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Dec 27, 2012 21:54
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I know one of those plugs is for a small relay box that has a relay for the defroster and one for the power antenna. I'm not really certain what that white plug on the left is for.
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Dec 27, 2012 23:02
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saint gerald posted:Digging about in the trunk trying to pin down my mystery rattle (so far, without success) I happened across these two unplugged connectors. Anyone know what they're for? They're right in front of the battery, the edge of which you can see in the lower left corner of the picture.  The white connector and bracket is for the power antenna, and the black connector is for a mini fusebox for glass back window defroster and power antenna 
meltie fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Dec 28, 2012 |
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Dec 28, 2012 18:04
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meltie posted:
Good to know! My Miata has a new glass rear window and the defroster wires aren't hooked up to anything, saves me some time. This week we got dumped on here in Albany, NY and I took her out for some late night snow drifting, no one but plow trucks were out, and I must say it handles the snow much better than I thought, even with it's Chinese all-seasons. The LSD makes it able to just hold a slide forever. So much fun but I need to start stripping it down soon for spring autox... Bonus snow pic taken the next morning: 
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Dec 28, 2012 21:08
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meltie posted:
Mystery solved. Thanks!
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Dec 28, 2012 21:25
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Mzv 538
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Dec 28, 2012 21:36
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Spent a couple hours at the Advance Autosports shop today talking Spec Miata with Dave Wheeler. Left with spec suspension, pads/rotors, longer wheel studs, and a seat. Should keep me busy for a bit while I figure out what I'm doing for a cage. drat that place has a lot of cool Miata's, think he said there were 28 or so in the shop. They're headed to Sebring for two weeks on Monday.
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Dec 29, 2012 03:10
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So my Miata has decided not to start anymore. At first I thought it was the battery, but using a voltmeter it turns out that the car isn't trying to pull any current from the battery. Is there a solenoid or something I should check? I don't even know how to google this question.
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Dec 30, 2012 01:09
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compton rear end terry posted:So my Miata has decided not to start anymore. At first I thought it was the battery, but using a voltmeter it turns out that the car isn't trying to pull any current from the battery. http://www.miataforumz.com/miata-wiring.php
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Dec 30, 2012 02:36
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A surplus of money and cold weather has me thinking “turbo.” I have a '94 R package, so a 1.8 manual, AC but nothing else "power," and a torsen diff. Suspension, exhaust, intake, and brakes are all already sorted. My automotive experience covers maintenance, brakes, and the basic principles of more advanced stuff, but on the electronics side I’m reasonable at soldering, know my way around a circuit diagram, understand the difference between a capacitor and an inductor, etc. I have a garage full of decent tools, and reliable alternate transport. Here’s the plan: Step The First: Megasquirt III $378 MS3x: $90, for AC fan, AC compressor, etc. and general simplicity Stimulator: $45, or perhaps a JimStim if that’s significantly better. Denso 440cc injectors as seen on an RX-8 near you $279 LC2 Wideband O2: $209. Harness of...er, some sort. I'm not nuts about tearing up the stock connectors. Something like this? If there's an easier way, I'm down for spending a few extra bucks to avoid wiring nightmares. Enough to get my feet wet, right? The MS should be within my capabilities to put together, and I have an old Eee PC that'll make a perfect companion. Tuning it is going to be a Learning Experience – is there a good book or other reference to get the basics down? Hopefully I'll come out of it with a car that’s drivable as-is (although not significantly faster) and with enough experience to tackle Step The Second...without breaking anything too expensive. Step The Second From there, I'm setting aside about $850-$1000 for a T25, an eBay intercooler, and a cast manifold -- used if I can find one, otherwise a FM or whatever. I know I’m going to need a clutch too, but its current one (quite possibly the original) is living on borrowed time as it is. I'm budgeting about $350 for a replacement that should be good up into the 250hp area. Do I need to allow for a lightweight flywheel as well? Overall, is this reasonable for someone with my experience? I'm in this for the journey as much as the result, although the thought of a Miata with twice the horsepower does make the eyes light up. I'm kinda stoked at the thought of fooling about with tuning software, building an ECU, hooking up an intercooler etc., but if it's just not something I should dive into with little/no previous experience, I'd welcome a little "redirection." saint gerald fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Dec 30, 2012 |
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Dec 30, 2012 03:53
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As long as it's not your daily driver go for it! For my first experiments with tuning I ruined a 4A engine playing with turbocharging and Megasquirt but it was a very worthwhile educational experience. You really do want a lighter flywheel though if you plan to do any competitive driving, the stock one's over 20 pounds. The FM clutch happy meal kit is a great place to go if you have turbo plans.
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Dec 30, 2012 04:22
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saint gerald posted:Tuning it is going to be a Learning Experience – is there a good book or other reference to get the basics down? Hopefully I'll come out of it with a car that’s drivable as-is (although not significantly faster) and with enough experience to tackle Step The Second...without breaking anything too expensive. I've read a couple books on EFI and EMS, and they tended to be very theory-heavy. Like brake-specific fuel consumption, speed of the gas-mixture flame front, possible mechanisms for failure when you overdrive your injectors, etc. Not like, hey, if the engine is doing this, this is how you need to adjust the map. Some of the formulas are kind of cool from a first-principles standpoint, but might not interest if you want to get a rough map working in a day. Browsing reviews for the books I've read and others, this seems most up your alley: http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Fuel-Injection-Systems-HP1557/dp/1557885575 Not sure it does the job that an online manual would for interfacing with Megasquirt, but the reviews are skewed to 5 and all mention how practical the info is. e: One reviewer specifically said it would have helped him figure out his Megasquirt setup faster.
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Dec 30, 2012 05:14
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You don't have to get the MS3x, a PnP1 would be easier and quicker. Wouldn't have to cut into the stock harness either. Although the MS3 has much better resolution, benefits from TSE's 12-tooth trigger wheel for sure. It also has future capability of VVT if you ever wanted a newer engine. Speaking of engines..... Have you done a recent compression check and/or leak-down test on your engine? The take boost fairly well, but it's always best to make sure your engine is healthy enough. Tuner Studio makes tuning really simple. Set your AFR table, make sure your wide-band is connected and calibrated, turn on auto-tune, and it'll put down a really good base tune to work of off. I got a car setup 3x faster with TS(tunerstudio) on the MS3x vs megatune on my old PnP. Jerry's book is really great, I've read it a couple of times. The best resource I can offer you..... Maximum Boost by Corky Bell (of Bell Engineering aka BEGi) http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost...oost+corky+bell Good luck! It's all worth it after the first time you take off and actually give it some WOT, hear the turbo spool, and you get pressed back into the seat by the once very slow car.
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Dec 30, 2012 18:00
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http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/3478795460.html diesel mazda miata 93 5 speed - $3750 (18974) has propane injection,no speed demon but gets 55mpg motor has 9000mi is isuzu 1000cc 215 364 4677 leave message 
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Dec 31, 2012 04:18
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opengl128 posted:http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/3478795460.html  This sounds interesting, someone go test drive it
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Dec 31, 2012 15:08
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Sanity check. Ready to do a compression check? I have unplugged what I believe to be the coils (left, orange) and the CAS (black, right).  Correct? I gather cranking the engine without disabling the spark can kill a coil pack. I don't want to do that.
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Dec 31, 2012 16:49
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flier129 posted:You don't have to get the MS3x, a PnP1 would be easier and quicker. Wouldn't have to cut into the stock harness either. Although the MS3 has much better resolution, benefits from TSE's 12-tooth trigger wheel for sure. It also has future capability of VVT if you ever wanted a newer engine. PnP1 was my original plan, but I had started to read through the 3 stuff and people seemed to like its expandability. I'll rethink. quote:Speaking of engines..... Have you done a recent compression check and/or leak-down test on your engine? The take boost fairly well, but it's always best to make sure your engine is healthy enough. Good idea. 182, 180, 170, 190. Close enough?
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Jan 1, 2013 00:08
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saint gerald posted:Sanity check. Ready to do a compression check? I have unplugged what I believe to be the coils (left, orange) and the CAS (black, right). You actually unplugged the injector harness, the two plugs that plug into the coil-pack are part of the main engine harness and a HUGE pain to unplug lol. FWIW, I've done several compression tests with the coil-pack still plugged in, but with the wires unplugged from it, the coil-packs still work fine. saint gerald posted:PnP1 was my original plan, but I had started to read through the 3 stuff and people seemed to like its expandability. I'll rethink. I meant to tell you to try a dry/wet compression test, I always forget when I do a test, and I forgot to tell you. Do a normal test when the engine is at or very close to operating temp, note the numbers. Then drip down a little oil into the cylinder right before you run the test again. If the numbers spike up consistently, it's the piston rings. If the numbers stay the same and look as yours do then it's the valves, more than likely valve stem seals they like to go bad. Doesn't look like the head is warped(yay!!!)though Better numbers than my 210k mi 94 engine came out with. 170-190 isn't ideal, but it should be fine with modest power(200-220rwhp enough?). When was the last time the water-pump and timing-belt was done? Also, another big factor similar to the clutch, what radiator do you have? The stock one will crack at the top fairly soon with a turbo engine, especially if it's getting a green-ish tint. Sorry if I'm bombarding you with questions, I've just been through all of this before, lol.
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Jan 1, 2013 15:49
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flier129 posted:You actually unplugged the injector harness, the two plugs that plug into the coil-pack are part of the main engine harness and a HUGE pain to unplug lol. FWIW, I've done several compression tests with the coil-pack still plugged in, but with the wires unplugged from it, the coil-packs still work fine. Yeah, I figured that out in the end. As you say, the two at the back are an immense pain to unplug, but after much swearing they came loose. quote:I meant to tell you to try a dry/wet compression test, I always forget when I do a test, and I forgot to tell you. Do a normal test when the engine is at or very close to operating temp, note the numbers. Then drip down a little oil into the cylinder right before you run the test again. If the numbers spike up consistently, it's the piston rings. If the numbers stay the same and look as yours do then it's the valves, more than likely valve stem seals they like to go bad. Doesn't look like the head is warped(yay!!!)though As soon as I feel like fighting with those coil connectors (and I can convince my 7yo to come sit in the driver's seat and crank) I'll go do this. quote:Better numbers than my 210k mi 94 engine came out with. 170-190 isn't ideal, but it should be fine with modest power(200-220rwhp enough?). Yeah, I'm not going for ridiculous power. Somewhere around 200 would probably be fine. quote:When was the last time the water-pump and timing-belt was done? Also, another big factor similar to the clutch, what radiator do you have? The stock one will crack at the top fairly soon with a turbo engine, especially if it's getting a green-ish tint. Water pump, timing belt, radiator (and most other wear-type parts except the clutch) were all replaced within the last thousand miles or so. As far as I know the radiator is stock, but I'll check the stack'o'receipts the PO gave me. quote:Sorry if I'm bombarding you with questions, I've just been through all of this before, lol. Not at all. This is exactly what I need. 
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Jan 1, 2013 16:34
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saint gerald posted:This is a quote from a while back, but do you happen to know if there are knockoff RX-8 injectors out there? I found some nice looking used ones for a good price, but I know sometimes these sort of things can be a little dodgy.
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Jan 2, 2013 08:23
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All you need to do is pull the CAS plug. If that's unplugged you won't get spark or squirt.
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Jan 2, 2013 14:23
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destructo posted:IIRC there are fake Bosch injectors out there, so I'd believe it. Expect to pay around $80-120 for a set on forums. There's a set for $105 on eBay. I guess they're probably more likely to be genuine if they've been used. saint gerald fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Jan 2, 2013 |
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Jan 2, 2013 15:35
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Started to deconstruct the interior of my '97. It is so dirty under the seats, I'll take a pic when it is light out. Not sure if I want to just clean the carpets and keep them in for now or just totally gut the thing to be ready for spring autox... 
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Jan 3, 2013 03:03
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So this thing followed me home last month. Miatabortion:      
GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Jan 3, 2013 |
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Jan 3, 2013 05:03
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I just saw your blog post about it in my reader and waddled over here to see if you'd made a post about it yet. I like the beige but not much else about that car. What was the previous owner trying to do? Any spare taillights? 
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Jan 3, 2013 05:17
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I can only imagine what the PO looks like..
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Jan 3, 2013 05:24
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I can only hope that you're making this into a Lotus 7 clone.
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Jan 3, 2013 05:26
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destructo posted:I can only imagine what the PO looks like.. I would love this to be a >1200lb miata but alas... the PO wanted to torn it into a 350z basically. I'm still trying to figure what to do with the carcass... edit: I meant <1200lb. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Jan 3, 2013 |
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Jan 3, 2013 10:35
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Is anyone familiar with a P0441 code on an NC Miata? My engine light just kicked on and I'm due for an emissions inspection soon 
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Jan 3, 2013 20:32
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:So this thing followed me home last month. I looked at this pic on my phone at first, and thought this was some kind of  super-triple-decker spoiler arrangement.I'm kinda disappointed that it isn't.
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Jan 3, 2013 20:53
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poxin posted:Is anyone familiar with a P0441 code on an NC Miata? My engine light just kicked on and I'm due for an emissions inspection soon Evap code. Sure you put your gas cap on tight?
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Jan 3, 2013 20:57
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Viggen posted:Evap code. Sure you put your gas cap on tight? I'll double check it but I normally click it down at least 3-4 times when I fill up.
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Jan 3, 2013 21:35
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poxin posted:I'll double check it but I normally click it down at least 3-4 times when I fill up. Check for any lose connections under the hood.
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Jan 4, 2013 02:17
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Looking for Enkei 92s, 15x8 +25, ideally on 205/50/15s. Any ideas on where to look used? If not, any good, reputable sources for new wheels? I'm not trying to go crazy on this, I just need new tires and I figured I'd find some wheels I like better than the stock Enkei 5-spokes. I'm saving up for a likely swap, but nobody ever complained about a second set of wheels while the car is still running, right?
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Jan 5, 2013 07:50
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flier129 posted:Better numbers than my 210k mi 94 engine came out with. 170-190 isn't ideal, but it should be fine with modest power(200-220rwhp enough?). I ran the test again, this time with a thoroughly warm engine. 190 across the board. I guess that's about as good as it gets for a motor with almost 160,000 on it. Turbo time! (Well, no, actually wideband O2, injectors, and Megasquirt time. Baby steps.) I had a minor panic when it refused to start after I put the plugs back in. It'd turn over just fine, cough a little, but not quite start. Much checking and rechecking of everything I touched followed. Turns out I'd just flattened the battery enough so that it would turn over but not fire. It's sitting on a trickle charger -- hopefully I didn't kill the battery altogether. What's the AI fashion police verdict on A-pillar gauge mounts? I picked up a cheap set, but I wonder if they're going to come off too ricey.
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Jan 5, 2013 21:35
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saint gerald posted:What's the AI fashion police verdict on A-pillar gauge mounts? I picked up a cheap set, but I wonder if they're going to come off too ricey.
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Jan 5, 2013 22:41
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I've had new spark plugs sitting for a bit, but finally ordered new wires, and a stubby antenna to boot. Now, I need to find the motivation to take care of these brake parts that have been sitting for awhile...
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Jan 5, 2013 23:47
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Yeah much better numbers, everything warm and expanded to where they normally are. Any gauges below the steering wheel are useless IMO. A-pillars kind of gets in my line of sight while auto-x'ing and they like(driving fast, looking ahead). I mounted mine in the vents like destructo mentioned. It's almost like they are made for gauges, they fit quite nicely. Boost gauge on the middle left and AFR on the middle right, could see both at a quick glance. Stared at the AFR the most from the passenger seat while tuning, though.
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Jan 6, 2013 03:00
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OK, the A-pillar idea is ditched. I'll try the eyeball vents. So what's the deal with the MAF on the 1.8? Is that something that's worth changing for something higher flow?
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Jan 6, 2013 23:51
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| # ? May 26, 2024 18:39 |
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Yeah, switch to a GM-style IAT: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/gm-open-element-iat-sensor-with-pigtail-p-62.html It'll make more power over 5500-6000rpm and it seemed easier to tune.
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Jan 7, 2013 01:22
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