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n8r posted:I'm not the right person to sperg over this, but Neroboro or someone a while ago posted how wonderful gas is at keeping out moisture. I find it hard to believe a tank will rust assuming the gas was fresh a few months ago. There is no reason to coat a properly de-rusted tank. I would run some in-line filters for a while to catch any particulates you don't get out. Pure gas is pretty good at keeping moisture out, the ethanol mixes are absolutely horrific though.
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Jan 3, 2013 05:17
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Oxygen rusts tanks, not necessarily the moisture. If your tank is less than completely full there is oxygen in it that is rusting your uncoated tank. This is why you should always light off the fumes before closing the gas cap any time you plan on storing a fuel tank for an extended period of time. Just stick a barbecue lighter in, pull the trigger, then close the cap. Any oxygen in the tank will react with the gasoline and won't be able to rust your tank.
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Jan 3, 2013 06:07
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Zool posted:This is why you should always light off the fumes before closing the gas cap any time you plan on storing a fuel tank for an extended period of time. Just stick a barbecue lighter in, pull the trigger, then close the cap. Any oxygen in the tank will react with the gasoline and won't be able to rust your tank. Sweet. I am going to try this now, since it's too cold for a ride to the gas station to top it off. Thanks, Zool. BRB
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Jan 3, 2013 16:00
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Crossposting from the Harley thread since I know not everyone reads it (or admits to reading it  )Back around Thanksgiving I replaced the 2-2 short pipes with a 2-1 setup on my carbed 2006 Sportster 883. (post) I figured some readjusting would need to be done with the new pipes, but have had zero time over the holidays and the bike runs just fine for the limited amount of time I've been able to ride it. The only thing I've noticed is that the already mediocre range on my ~2.5gal tank dropped noticeably, enough that I had to switch to reserve a couple of times which hadn't happened since the first week I got the bike. There are two good Harley shops within a stone's throw of my house who would probably readjust and tune for a few hundred bucks, but when I got the bike I told myself I was going to learn how to do everything myself. So: what stuff do I need to check/do in what order? I'm guessing it's running way too rich? Keep in mind, I've never worked on a bike before so while I am familiar with a carb and it's function, I start getting lost with terms such as rejet/shim level/needle type etc. I need some basic idiot instructions to get started  I'm already planning to pick up a good manual, and have plenty of tools. Thanks guys.
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Jan 3, 2013 16:04
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Crossposting from the Harley thread since I know not everyone reads it (or admits to reading it Poor mileage usually means rich, but switching to a 2-1 ordinarily leans the mixture.  Use the manual for you specific carbs, but basically do some plug chops to figure out where in the jet circuits you have problems. Then adjust the jets for that circuit. Circuits generally are (a) pilot; (b) needle; (c) main. They correspond to the amount of throttle -- i.e., (a) idle to 1/4; (b) 1/4 to 3/4; and (c) 3/4 to WoT. Pilot jets usually include adjustment screws that permit fine tuning, elevation changes, etc. Your pipe change should not require a different size jet. Again, check the manual though. The needle covers the mid-range. Some carbs have adjustable needles with notches and a circlip that can raise or lower its position. Raising the needle richens the mix and vice versa. Sometimes you can use tiny washers to shim the needle to fine tune it between the notches. Mains are plug 'n play. If you are too rich at WoT, go smaller. Too lean, go smaller. Did I mention that you should check the manual?  Some carbs tune from the pilot up, but others tune from the main down. My guess is your carbs are CV and therefore tune from the main down. But changing the pipe affects the mixture only slightly, so I don't think you are in for a jet overhaul. Lots of folks in my old Suzuki circle go from a 2-2 to a 4-1 with only minor changes, if any. I doubt you'll need the full-blown rejetting required when switching to pipes and pod filters. AMHIK.  Also check your air filter to make sure it is not clogged with poo poo or over-oiled. Either can turn your mixture rich. Finally, mileage and mixture problems can also be symptoms of ignition timing slipping out of adjustment. Before you get too deep into the carbs, it's worth double checking your timing (if it's adjustable on that bike). HTH
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Jan 3, 2013 16:31
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You say the bike runs just fine. Odds are you're riding just a bit differently or warming it up more. Don't gently caress with the carbs on a bike that runs well.
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Jan 3, 2013 16:44
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n8r posted:You say the bike runs just fine. Odds are you're riding just a bit differently or warming it up more. Don't gently caress with the carbs on a bike that runs well. Listen to n8r. He is wise. Check the air-filter, do some plug chops. These will tell you if anything is actually out of whack. If they are inconclusive, just ride the gently caress out of it until more meaningful symptoms emerge. A slightly rich bike will eat more gas, but such a mild richness won't really do severe damage to the engine otherwise. Lean engines run hotter, burn valves, etc. Rich engines waste gas and, over time, the excess fuel can wash too much oil from the cylinder walls. There is a huge gap between lovely mileage and OH GOD OH GOD my cylinders . . .
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Jan 3, 2013 17:15
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My mileage started steadily dropping three or four months ago, and I thought that something bad had happened to my bike and it had suddenly gotten rich out of nowhere. The plugs looked absolutely perfect, dusty cinnamony brown and dry. After a while I realized that it was probably just because I was getting more comfortable with the bike and redlining it a whole lot more often  e: now, though, I feel that OCD itch and want to do more plug chops and make sure the thing is working properly. Gotta test plugs Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Jan 3, 2013 |
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Jan 3, 2013 17:16
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Crossposting from the Harley thread since I know not everyone reads it (or admits to reading it If I'm not mistaken, Harley had completely moved to fuel injection by 2006? Are you sure the bike is carbed?
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Jan 3, 2013 18:13
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I'd look around and try and see what the baseline specs for the carbs with your pipe setup should be. It's not going to be perfect, but it'll at least let you know if you're in the ballpark. It's basically impossible to correctly tune a bike without a dyno. The inherent lack of accuracy in carbs makes it easier to home tune but without some sort of baseline, you could be way off and the bike could still run okish. (see - every bike with a clogged pilot that has been compensated for by cranking up the idle)
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Jan 3, 2013 18:15
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:If I'm not mistaken, Harley had completely moved to fuel injection by 2006? Are you sure the bike is carbed? As far as I know it was optional until 2007.
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Jan 3, 2013 19:43
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Tamir Lenk posted:Be careful with muriatic acid, as it can chew through the metal, your skin, etc. Better to use phosphoric acid instead. Home Depot sells Etch N Prep for treating concrete before painting. Pour the whole jug into the tank, after sealing the petcock holes. Turn the tank periodically, and in a few hours, it will be clean and sexy with little or no risk of flash rusting. I picked up the Etch N Prep stuff, diluted it to 1:3 and filled the tank with it this morning. I almost got the muratic acid but I'm pretty sure I don't need anything that strong, I double checked the tank prep A bottle and it's mostly phosphoric acid so I stuck with that. I'll drain it in 4-5 hours and see how it turned out. It's just going to be a pain to discard the acid and such.
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Jan 3, 2013 19:56
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Pour it on your least favorite neighbor's lawn.
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Jan 3, 2013 21:57
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A buddy of mine doesn't really take care of his bike, so I confiscated it. What do you think: replace or soak in diesel overnight? (I'm leaning toward replace, because I don't think it even has o-rings.)
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Jan 4, 2013 00:19
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 Replace it with a real x ring chain.
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Jan 4, 2013 00:36
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Ashex posted:I double checked the tank prep A bottle and it's mostly phosphoric acid so I stuck with that. I'll drain it in 4-5 hours and see how it turned out. It's just going to be a pain to discard the acid and such. For phosphoric acid just mix it with a few gallons of water and pour it on the ground. It makes a good fertilizer. Can't say the same for the other crud it washes out of the tank tho, Just don't pour it on anything you intend to eat.
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Jan 4, 2013 00:42
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Z3n posted:
$70 a good price? Also, my cheapo multimeter says his battery is putting out about 12v, but the bike won't start (it turns over, but it turns over more quickly and eventually starts when it's being jumped). Will a battery tender get it back to healthy? Do I need to add water (I don't know if it's that kind of battery)?
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Jan 4, 2013 02:49
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12v indicates a slightly low battery -- open-circuit with no load, if fully charged, should be 12.63. Try putting it on a tender, yeah, and see if you can get it to stay up where it should be. A dying battery won't be able to source the current a starter requires even if its open-circuit voltage is high enough, though, so if that doesn't work your next step should be replacement. If the battery is a flooded type that requires water, it will have 6 little caps on top for vents and you'll be able to see liquid sloshing around inside when you tilt it. There will be a min and max line, and the electrolyte level should be between those two. If it's low in any of the 6 cells, take off that cap and add distilled water (get it from the pharmacy) until it's high enough. If you were just charging the battery, thump it on the ground a few times before you read the electrolyte level, because that will dislodge the hydrogen bubbles that build up on the plates and screw up the reading.
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Jan 4, 2013 03:03
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Fuel economy concerns This depends on location and other things but don't forget winter gas can give noticeably shittier fuel economy
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Jan 4, 2013 03:19
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Safety Dance posted:$70 a good price? Yeah, 70 is a good price.
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Jan 4, 2013 05:36
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Tamir Lenk posted:
Seriously, thanks for typing all that up. I'll be picking up a manual when I find a good deal on one, and will check the air filter tomorrow. n8r posted:You say the bike runs just fine. Odds are you're riding just a bit differently or warming it up more. Don't gently caress with the carbs on a bike that runs well. Yeah see, this is what really confused me - I'm very new to bikes but it seemed to idle better/more consistently with the new pipes, so I was hesitant to mess with it. No unburnt gasoline smell either, which I remember well from my old '67 Impala/350SBC that ran rich. Also I thought about what you said about riding it differently, and you are completely right: I've been getting on the throttle much heavier, as the 2-1s are a helluva lot quieter and I think I was subconsciously avoiding blasting small dogs through windows as I passed with the old 2-2  pipes.Tamir Lenk posted:do some plug chops. I looked this up and really want to do it now, thanks. Jim Silly-Balls posted:If I'm not mistaken, Harley had completely moved to fuel injection by 2006? Are you sure the bike is carbed? Well it's got a choke I have to adjust on bitter ~37deg SoCal mornings, so I assume so? Snowdens Secret posted:This depends on location and other things but don't forget winter gas can give noticeably shittier fuel economy I'm around Los Angeles, but I have no idea how that factors into seasonal fuel mix adjustments. Thanks guys. I'll check stuff out when I have a chance, but I think maybe n8r is correct and the new pipes happened to coincide with me getting more confident with the bike/hitting redline a bit more. These things are tough to gauge when you're a new rider on  Sportster 'Merican Freedom and don't have tach or fuel indicators to judge your progress.
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Jan 4, 2013 06:05
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A lot of FI bikes from that '90s-'00s period of transition have 'choke' levers. Some of them actually enrich the mixture, some just add a bit more throttle at idle. My '03 Kawasaki had one; I would not be surprised to find one on a FI Harley. That being said, your '05 is almost assuredly carbed. E: California has something absurd like 14 different blends of gas (part of why your prices are so high) but I doubt whatever winter blend LA gets is very severe, so probs not a real factor Snowdens Secret fucked around with this message at 09:09 on Jan 4, 2013 |
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Jan 4, 2013 09:04
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Ashex posted:I picked up the Etch N Prep stuff, diluted it to 1:3 and filled the tank with it this morning. I almost got the muratic acid but I'm pretty sure I don't need anything that strong, I double checked the tank prep A bottle and it's mostly phosphoric acid so I stuck with that. I'll drain it in 4-5 hours and see how it turned out. It's just going to be a pain to discard the acid and such. Just empty the acid from the tank into a jug through a screen. You can re-use the acid to de rust parts, another tank, etc. Also, you can use the Etch N Prep straight from the bottle. Diluting it doesn't hurt, but it will take longer to derust. For gas tanks and other steel items, you can use that poo poo at full strength.
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Jan 4, 2013 17:50
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Looking at taking a 600 mile each way trek out to Deals Gap in May for Memorial day. 2 days there, 6 days of putzing around, and 2 days back. This will be my first long distance/week long trip in all these years. Something I've always wanted to do but couldn't really collect the interest in local friends and family until now. We'll have 3-5 bikes. 3 confirmed and 2 in the air. Aside from a double dose of typical maintenance, lubing cables, changing oils, inspecting everything, checking tire pressure... any advice for the pre-trip checklist? Extra lights/plugs/seals/JB weld/etc I should be packing along? My break down plan at the moment consists of my cell phone, MC towing package with my insurance, and my credit card. I'm reasonably handy though and could probably handle minor issues if I think ahead a bit and pack the appropriate spares and tools. I'm hoping to have an after market seat and highway pegs by the time the trip is underway, but in case I don't any tips and recommendations for long term comfort? Bead seat covers, gel packs, etc? I put on 100-200 miles in a day regularly and comfortably, but those trips aren't often fuel > drain tank > refuel style trips. This will likely be a personal first for most hours straight in the saddle. I'm all good on keeping my rear end adjusted regularly and stopping to rest and stretch frequently, but I certainly feel a bit worse for wear a day or two after some good riding. 10 straight days of extended saddle time is something I've not really done before and have some concerns over. I'll be doing this with a standard position drag bike with 35mpgs and a 4 gallon tank alongside a Guzzi Norge and BMW 1200RT. Fortunately the owners of those bikes are in their 50's and my hope is that their bladders will fill up faster than my gas tank drains. Otherwise I'm going to be a bit of a downer for them by adding a couple otherwise unnecessary fuel stops, but they'll get over it. Lastly, any good sights to see along this route? I'm going to push to not just bulldoze the whole way on boring expressways and hit some actual scenic roads along the way. Halo_4am fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Jan 6, 2013 |
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Jan 6, 2013 19:21
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In my experience frequent stops are better anyways. In a car I absolutely hate stopping and I only do so to grab gas and get the hell back on the road but on the bike it's nice to get up and stretch your legs / not have to sit hunched over. You may want to look into a throttle lock (even a cheapo one). I've always wished I had one so I could relax my right arm for a bit.
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Jan 6, 2013 19:40
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I'd consider hauling rear end on the slab for the first half then finding a non-interstate route from Lexington, KY or maybe a bit more south, like around London or Corbin. If you cut over around Lexington the scenery will be nice but it will add a lot of time, however there's a few places farther south where you'd probably only add an hour but the drive will be much nicer and you'll get to see some neat parts of Kentucky and Tennessee.
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Jan 6, 2013 19:49
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JP Money posted:In my experience frequent stops are better anyways. In a car I absolutely hate stopping and I only do so to grab gas and get the hell back on the road but on the bike it's nice to get up and stretch your legs / not have to sit hunched over. I'm sure I've said this before but throttle locks seem like the most fundamentally stupid thing I've ever heard of to fit to a motorbike. Are you guys accidentally using suspension springs in your throttles or something? On every bike I've ever ridden, you can hold the throttle in place with just the weight of your hand and the friction of your thumb and palm, no need to actually grip, and of course it means you automatically close the throttle when you have to move your hand forward to brake.
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Jan 6, 2013 19:55
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goddamnedtwisto posted:I'm sure I've said this before but throttle locks seem like the most fundamentally stupid thing I've ever heard of to fit to a motorbike. Are you guys accidentally using suspension springs in your throttles or something? The DRZ snaps back fairly easily and so did the R1. The older Honda though had to be turned back, the throttle was kind of shot on it.
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Jan 6, 2013 19:57
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goddamnedtwisto posted:I'm sure I've said this before but throttle locks seem like the most fundamentally stupid thing I've ever heard of to fit to a motorbike. Are you guys accidentally using suspension springs in your throttles or something? How else can you go "Look maw, no hands"?!
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Jan 6, 2013 19:59
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goddamnedtwisto posted:I'm sure I've said this before but throttle locks seem like the most fundamentally stupid thing I've ever heard of to fit to a motorbike. Are you guys accidentally using suspension springs in your throttles or something? And what does it do when you take you're hand off? On long straight rides I like to give me right hand a break.
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Jan 6, 2013 20:04
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nsaP posted:And what does it do when you take you're hand off? On long straight rides I like to give me right hand a break. I pull the clutch in, shake out my hand, then put it back on with an admonishment to myself not to grip so hard. If it's really a problem better gloves or better grips are in order.
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Jan 6, 2013 20:15
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I have a cheap throttle lock on the DL650. I must admit, it was really nice (although the feeling of controlling the bike with just your left arm/hand is a little weird) to give my right arm a break. Until I accidentally clutched and redlined because the throttle was still locked.
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Jan 6, 2013 20:22
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Halo_4am posted:Deals Gap in May for Memorial day Is there any way you could move your trip schedule around? Deals Gap on Memorial day is a mess, especially if you want to break ~20mph. It's still a fun road but there will be a ton of traffic and police presence that weekend.
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Jan 6, 2013 20:28
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:I pull the clutch in, shake out my hand, then put it back on with an admonishment to myself not to grip so hard. If it's really a problem better gloves or better grips are in order. I do this too because I don't have a throttle lock. Grip or gloves are a possibility but I think it's got more to do with not moving my wrist for a couple hours on long highway runs. Similar to how the rest of my body gets stiff and sore on the bike if I don't move around. Or maybe that's just my boots, pants, and weighting the pegs too much...
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Jan 6, 2013 20:35
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Halo_4am posted:Deals Gap Trip If you're going to be in that chunk of the country in May, remember weather is highly variable. Expect rain; usually it just rains for an hour or so and then stops, so it's up to you whether to ride through (with raingear) or seek shelter. Temperatures may rise or fall significantly day to day and day to night. You'll want to plan for this in the gear you bring along, both for on the bike and for walking around. If you have that many people going, it may make sense to have a chase vehicle. 10 days clothes is a lot of stuff to pack, having a car you can chuck some of it in instead of piling your rides sky high is nice (less of an issue for the touring bikes, but every pound helps.) If it's a truck/van that can carry an ailing bike in a pinch, that may be a plus too. You want, at a minimum, that the lead bike has GPS. Preferably everyone. It's 2013, have GPS, a real unit (even a cheapo) because cell service is spotty in the mountains. Don't assume you'll always stay in visual range. If you're not using the same company's GPS make sure your route is the same, lest someone get TomTom'ed into a solo detour. Getting a comms system between all riders like a Scala or Sena or whatever is a good idea if possible. Both for safety concerns and to communicate you want to stop to eat/pee/gas up/ look around better than trying to flash / horn down a long string of other bikes. This also helps coordinate if not everyone has / has the same GPS. Finally, I don't know how much you've ridden distance with these guys, but try to get some ground rules set beforehand. Who sets the pace and how? Will you ride tire-to-tire or half a mile apart? (Specifically I'd tell people riding right on top of you up to and including next to you in the lane is not cool. Some people think this is funny to do and some people do it to chat while riding, but it's not safe.) If it rains, do you stop or keep going? What do you do if you lose sight of someone? etc etc. (You can see how having comms units helps a lot with this.) E: Oh man I missed you wanted to do it on Memorial Day.
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Jan 6, 2013 20:55
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nsaP posted:I do this too because I don't have a throttle lock. Grip or gloves are a possibility but I think it's got more to do with not moving my wrist for a couple hours on long highway runs. Similar to how the rest of my body gets stiff and sore on the bike if I don't move around. Or maybe that's just my boots, pants, and weighting the pegs too much... Perhaps you're just picking the wrong roads if you're not even changing throttle position for hours on end. Go find some twisties and break it up a bit.
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Jan 6, 2013 21:14
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Are you determined to make this my fault? Lol...sometimes you can choose but sometimes you gotta get somewhere. I'll come up with another reason but you'll just move the goalposts to something else I'm doing wrong. Is cruise control on a car stupid? All you have to do is push a little bit on the pedal...
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Jan 6, 2013 21:16
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Throttle lock (doesn't actually lock, spergs!) is awesome for long road trips. My trip last summer was 7700km, and there's no way I could have done it without that awesome little gubbin. The ability to take your hand off the throttle and stretch without having to worry about the bike is fantastic. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055QOKC8/ref=cm_cr_error That's the one I got.
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Jan 6, 2013 21:35
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nsaP posted:Are you determined to make this my fault? Lol...sometimes you can choose but sometimes you gotta get somewhere. I'll come up with another reason but you'll just move the goalposts to something else I'm doing wrong. Cruise control (or at least any system made after the 50s) doesn't prevent the fail-safe behaviour of the throttle though - if you touch throttle or brakes the cruise control suspends. This is my fundamental objection to the idea of a throttle lock, it substantially reduces safety to do something that decent riding habits should be preventing anyway. Anyway you deserve all the poo poo I throw at you for putting "you're" rather than "your". You're (NOTE CORRECT USE) literally worse than Hitler.
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Jan 6, 2013 21:36
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Backov posted:Throttle lock (doesn't actually lock, spergs!) is awesome for long road trips. Had you considered leaving that at home and taking a different route? goddamnedtwisto posted:Cruise control (or at least any system made after the 50s) doesn't prevent the fail-safe behaviour of the throttle though - if you touch throttle or brakes the cruise control suspends. This is my fundamental objection to the idea of a throttle lock, it substantially reduces safety to do something that decent riding habits should be preventing anyway. Throttle locks are not that strong and your pretty funny.
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Jan 6, 2013 21:38
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