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Wranglers get the "sport" part not from being fast, but being SLOW, and maneuverable in tight spots. And yes, poor steering behavior is kinda par for the course. The disconnected feel comes from a combination of low caster angles, recirculating-ball steering, and tall-sidewalled tires which take longer to change slip angles when you turn the wheel. You get used to it quickly, but coming from anything with sport-car handling, it feels like you could fly off the road at any moment. The rest of us with lifted 4x4's haven't died in a fire (yet), so it's not insurmountable.
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Dec 28, 2012 11:47
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Oil pressure "crisis" update! The oil pressure gauge was showing zero on Christmas. It ran fine and had plenty of oil in the pan and the engine didn't make any weird noises so I assumed the sender was bad. I drove it around a bit on Christmas and the following two days without incident. The gauge would sometimes show zero and sometimes would show maybe 20psi or so when driving at speed. I finally had some time today and the weather is a little warmer so I looked a little closer at it today. The sending unit is mostly plastic but the part that threads into the engine is brass (or something like that). The plastic part moved independently of the brass part. I unplugged the harness and it was full of engine oil. I drove the Jeep up to the parts store and changed the sensor in the parking lot. I drove the Jeep home and the oil pressure on the gauge is normal; 25-30psi at idle and 50ish while actually driving.
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Dec 28, 2012 16:38
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BoostCreep posted:Edit: I also test drove manual and automatic 2013 Wrangler Unlimiteds. I don't know if I've been spoiled by my GC, but they feel really under-powered and sluggish. The manual was a Rubicon and the auto was a Sport. Overall, the seats were incredibly comfortable, much more so than my GC, with ample room up front and in back. The rear seat backs were pretty thin and flimsy looking though.  PBCrunch posted:The plastic part moved independently of the brass part. I unplugged the harness and it was full of engine oil. OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Dec 28, 2012 |
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Dec 28, 2012 20:28
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BoostCreep posted:
boy, i wonder why.
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Dec 28, 2012 21:15
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If the wiring harness ends up full of oil at least it will never corrode. I can't possibly imagine why no one is buying $57k JK-8 conversions...
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Dec 28, 2012 21:17
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OneOverZero posted:I suppose I had the opposite impression, though coming from an '01 XJ (full JKS/OME 3" on NitroCharger Sports and 30x9.5" BFGs). A Pentastar-equipped manual Rubi felt reasonably quick, quite composed, and smooth, and even a ragged, Moab-rental 3.8 auto was an improvement over a well-sorted XJ. Then again, it's been a while since I've driven a WK. I was cross-shopping a 6spd Rubi against a 6spd 1.4L turbo Dart, so YMMV. And I'm glad you got your AI:SS package. Thank you!!! I was wondering if my santa would out himself. You rock! As for the Jeep, I had an '01 Cherokee with a 3" lift and 31" tires too. Maybe I had lower expectations for that one because I never really felt like it lacked power for some reason. The 4.0 would just lumber it's way to redline and do its thing. I think I've been spoiled by the Hemi with its silly instant torque and road going manners. Also the 4.0 sounded like a truck engine. The Pentastar sounds like it got ripped from a entry level sedan and thrown into a 4WD truck and now it's screaming for its life. Again, probably spoiled by the roar of the 5.7 V8. I'm going to see what kind of deal I can get on the Trailhawk today, but the Wrangler is still an option. I'm making a Pros and Cons list right now.
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Dec 28, 2012 21:20
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BoostCreep posted:The Pentastar sounds like it got ripped from a entry level sedan and thrown into a 4WD truck and now it's screaming for its life.. Not too far from the truth actually. A turbo diesel would be a major redemption factor for me in the JK. But mopar doesn't give two hoots what people want.
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Dec 29, 2012 04:35
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DixielandDelight posted:Not too far from the truth actually. A turbo diesel would be a major redemption factor for me in the JK. But mopar doesn't give two hoots what people want. The market of buyers for a turbodiesel JK is probably too small to bother getting it past emissions and other per-model shenanigans.
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Dec 29, 2012 09:46
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EightBit posted:The market of buyers for a turbodiesel JK is probably too small to bother getting it past emissions and other per-model shenanigans. It definitely is. They did some focus group and like 10% of the people expressed the slightest interest.
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Dec 29, 2012 18:00
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BoostCreep posted:I'm making a Pros and Cons list right now. If you have to make a pro/con list to decide about buying a Wrangler, you probably should go with the Not-Wrangler.
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Dec 29, 2012 18:53
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I did some work to my Jeep today: I got a Comanche badge off an 87 Sportruck so I can have it remade for mine.(it only had one and it was damaged(also very surprised to see a Comanche in the self service junkyard)) Got a replacement seatbelt latch, as mine is falling apart. I went to the Jeep dealership and inquired about a replacement vent window latch because I couldn't figure out how to take it apart in the junkyard: $88. I asked how it's installed, then went back to the junkyard and knocked out the roll pin and bought it for $8 as a 'door' handle. Now that window doesn't rattle going down the highway, yay! I also figured out that once you start throwing accessories in like power steering and AC the engine bay gets a lot more crowded. When I bought the truck, I replaced the battery terminal. There was this big rear end blue wire that looked like it was for an amplifier or something. I didn't reconnect it because there is no amp in the truck. I was just playing around and hooked it back up today, turns out that's how the PO installed the power windows, so now I have power windows! Tried to replace the reverse lights, but they're good so it's probably the reverse position switch. Completely tore apart the dash of a Cherokee and found out how the gauges work, how the light switch operates, and the fact that you have to take the whole drat thing apart to access the light switch. Also the dashpad is non-removeable and seems to riveted to the body. Today also developed a few questions though: Would the transfer case on an automatic be the same as a manual? What would be the best way to examine a transmission to see if it's damaged without just buying and installing it?(I found an AX-15) Any possible cause to interior lights not working other than a failed switch? Please correct me if I'm wrong on any of my newfound 'knowledge'.
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Dec 29, 2012 23:21
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warning: there are a lot of  words in this post and absolutely no pictures.I think the dash info you have is wrong, but I'm not sure what you're calling a dash pad. If you mean the whole assembly with the grey/tan/black/blue pleather covering, it's bolted in, but there are a half a million bolts. It's really not fun to get out but can be done. You can get the headlight switch in and out after only dropping the lower half of the dash, it sucks but hey, that's working under the dash of a small vehicle for you. As for the AX15 and transfer case stuff...  All 4.0 vehicle specific swap donor info. If you have a 2.5 (which iirc you do) and want to put in an AX15, just get one out of a 4cyl dakota and skip all this crap. AX15s range greatly in input shaft pilot bearing journal diameter, internal vs external slave type, and a few other things. At least they're all 23 spline output shaft, though. What donor are you thinking of getting an AX15 from? There are at least 5-6 vehicles and even more year ranges you can get one from, all with various gotchas involved. 88?-90/91: small pilot bearing journal, I haven't found anywhere selling the bushing and bearing you need to put these into a 4.0 vehicle, reportedly it's intended for some CJ with a V8 but I forget the specifics. Internal slave cylinder. Manufacturers on rockauto can't agree what the end year on the pilot bearing application is, I like to avoid these due to the confusion. 90/91/92 (no one agrees) to 93: large pilot bearing journal, internal slave. Use with pilot bearing+bushing pair FC69907, which fits half a million dodges and chryslers as well so it's generally stocked or only a day away at the hub for any parts store that carries it. 94-99/01: large pilot bearing journal, external slave, otherwise the same as the previous listing. At some point (00 for XJs, not sure on TJs and Dakotas) the AX15 was replaced by the NV3550, mostly equivalent but improved durability. Now, donor vehicles: XJ/MJ/ZJ (88?-99, 88?-92, 93-94 respectively): AFAIK same clocking angle on the transfer case bolt pattern. Some internal, some external slaves, some small some large pilot bearing journal, see above listings. YJ: different clocking angle on the transfer case bolt pattern. IIRC this results in the transfer case being clocked up a bit higher, which is better for ground clearance but may result in driveshaft and transfer case housing to floor clearance problems. It may be clocked lower, I'm not sure. TJ: different clocking angle AFAIK, may be wrong Now the surprising one. ??-late 90s Dakota w/ 3.9 V6 engine: same exact transmission (including tcase clocking angle) as the XJ/MJ/ZJ of the same year, but with a different shift column and lever and a different bellhousing. These are extremely plentiful in the yards at least where I'm from - I've never seen less than 3 5 speed 3.9 dakotas sitting there. It's the same transmission in the 2.5 4cyl dakotas, too. The only reason you can't just bolt up a dakota AX15 to a Jeep 4.0 is the bellhousing. This is a blessing and a curse. On one hand, you have to get a bellhousing that will put the AX15 on a 4.0 (basically any AX15 jeep bellhousing will work) but on the other hand, the bellhousing off the dakota trans is worth money - because the 2.5 dakota bellhousing makes an AX15 fit behind a 4cyl Jeep's engine, and the 3.9 dakota bellhousing makes an AX15 fit behind a 3.9 V6, 5.2 V8, or 5.9 V8 mopar smallblock engine. I don't know about anyone else but that kind of info makes me daydream about putting a V8 in my jeep. I'm not sure how much a 3.9 bellhousing goes for but I recently sold just a 2.5 dakota bellhousing for $130. Any 23 spline NP231 or NP242 should fit that AX15, just use an NP231 out of any XJ/MJ, I don't think donor engine matters but stick with a 6cyl just in case. Automatic or manual, it shouldn't matter. Stick with a 91 through 95 tcase due to the rear output seal design change between 95 and 96 - though you'll need to change driveshaft lengths anyways when doing a 4x4 conversion. One NP231 caveat - DO NOT BUY ONE OUT OF A ZJ WITH A SPECIFIC AUTO TRANS! I don't recall exactly what trans it is that curses them, but the part number that will be stamped on the round red and silver tag on the tcase will end in 7926 IIRC. This case is a special snowflake and has to be completely disassembled so one stupid bushing sleeve can be driven out of the input gear before it will bolt onto any other transmission and you won't find out till the drat transfer case bottoms out on the input shaft 1/4" before it seats deeply enough to be bolted on. It's a drat pain in the loving rear end and I will never buy a transfer case out of a ZJ again because of it, the info I found on what years/drivetrains got that stupid tcase was very conflicting and fuzzy and it's just not worth the hassle and worry to me. XJ donors are plentiful anyways. kastein fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Dec 29, 2012 |
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Dec 29, 2012 23:46
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kastein posted:warning: there are a lot of Thanks for the info. The AX15 I found was in a V6 though, I'll have to wait until a 4 cylinder shows up. edit: Late 90s Dakota V6 transmission is the same as the 4 cylinder AX15 though?? I do mean the whole assembly with the pleather covering, as mine is hosed up and I wanted to replace it, but I couldn't even fathom how to get that one out. I ordered a lovely 3rd party guide for like $3.78(Chilton's, I think), but I don't think they do interiors. I might just settle for some sort of patching mine, it's got a bit of foam missing and a lot of cracking. HarmB fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Dec 30, 2012 |
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Dec 30, 2012 00:23
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Aside from the bellhousing it is the same transmission, yes. Mid to late 90s V6 5-speed manual dakota is the same, I know at least up till 98 and probably till 99 as well. After that I seem to recall them switching to the NV3550, which can use the same bellhousings, so I believe one of those will work as well. I'll have to check my parts catalogs to make sure. Getting the dash out really sucks. There are a few large bolts under each end that connect it to the body right by the door frame, I think a few at the center console, and something like 6-8 small bolts, phillips screws, or 5/16" hex head self tappers holding it in along the top edge right below the windshield. You have to remove 4-6 phillips screws, carefully pop the defrost vent trim off, then remove a bunch of bolts that become visible, it is way easier to do with the windshield out.
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Dec 30, 2012 00:31
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kastein posted:Aside from the bellhousing it is the same transmission, yes. Mid to late 90s V6 5-speed manual dakota is the same, I know at least up till 98 and probably till 99 as well. After that I seem to recall them switching to the NV3550, which can use the same bellhousings, so I believe one of those will work as well. I'll have to check my parts catalogs to make sure. I tried pulling the defrost vent trim off earlier, it was held down with a few phillips. I got the few on the right done, but the one directly in front of the driver is at an angle to where it seems impossible to remove without the windshield out. I guess I'm doing to just live with the cracked dash!
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Dec 30, 2012 02:16
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Braincloud posted:If you have to make a pro/con list to decide about buying a Wrangler, you probably should go with the Not-Wrangler. Good point. The pros and cons list was for stuff like the Wrangler being a convertible, having a proper 4x4 system with lockers from the factory, nice MT tires, etc., while the Cherokee has a V8, it can tow, is more luxurious, etc. So after debating, and the fact that I got this car for a very good deal, I went with the Trailhawk.     I will realistically be spending 95% of the time on pavement in Los Angeles, and I have two broken project cars that will undoubtedly need to be towed around. The GC just made more sense. The nice thing about the Trailhawk edition is that it comes with Goodyear Wrangler A/T tires, factory steel rock rails, full skid plates, tow hooks, Quadra-Drive II, Selec-Terrain system, and a really nice interior. Plus the air suspension that gives me 10.6 inches of ground clearance. So, basically, it'll be decent enough off road while still providing a ride comfortable enough to haul clients around town.
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Dec 30, 2012 03:39
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drat, that is a sexy Grand Cherokee.
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Dec 30, 2012 04:17
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Harmburger posted:I tried pulling the defrost vent trim off earlier, it was held down with a few phillips. I got the few on the right done, but the one directly in front of the driver is at an angle to where it seems impossible to remove without the windshield out. I guess I'm doing to just live with the cracked dash! They're angled great aren't they? It's possible, just not very easy. You'll rap your knuckles on the windshield quite a bit. Last time I pulled that area of my MJ apart I had the windshield out since I was fixing some rust spots on the windshield frame and installing a new one, but made the idiot mistake of not putting the trim piece back in until I'd already done the windshield. Don't know what I was thinking there.
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Dec 30, 2012 08:19
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A customer came in today with a half inch long pan head torx bolt with a captive washer. We dont get a LOT of guys looking for car parts at Depot but I recognized it. can I help you find something, sir? I need another one of these bolts - do you have any? is that off a jeep? Yeah! I have an '87 Wrangler. Unfortunately, I didnt have what he needed but I referred him to the internet.
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Dec 30, 2012 21:20
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I finally landed a big boy job and am in the new car market. I currently have a 2005 rubicon but am looking at something a little more comfortable and am toying with the idea of a new grand cherokee. I *just* started looking so I am not sure what my specific requirements are yet but im curious of the general consensus of the grand cherokee amongst the goon community.
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Dec 30, 2012 22:23
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I swapped out my backup lamp switch today in my AX-5. Being that I'm an idiot and didn't think about the fact that junkyard transmissions are drained, I wasn't well prepared and lost an ounce or two of transmission oil. From what I can tell, the plug is near the filler bolt anyways. Will a tiny bit of oil missing be a big deal until I can actually change all the oil?
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Dec 31, 2012 00:28
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I think I might have a front u joint going out on my '99 XJ. I'm hearing some popping and grinding sounds at low speed, especially when turning left. Also starting to get a vibration in the seat and steering wheel at highway speed 60+ mph. Is there any simple test for pinpointing a bad u joint? edit: Ah this looks like a good video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVC76dSBNnY mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 10:11 on Dec 31, 2012 |
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Dec 31, 2012 10:01
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I found and fixed the problem with my MJ. It had been losing power since my last serious offroad trip, and a few months ago it really started getting bad. In fact it was almost undriveable, it would completely fall on its face above around 2500rpm, right when it'd normally have the most power. Having hydrolocked this motor gently two or three times, filled two cylinders once, and knowing how the previous owner of the motor treated it, I feared the worst. Thoughts of destroyed bores and terribly worn piston rings filled my head. The downpipe was crushed a bit and I held out hope that that was the source of the problems. Then I dropped the exhaust at the 4 bolt flange before the catalytic converter (my favorite feature of the '94 and earlier exhaust system) and it ran well again. Looked up into the cat and it only had 1/3 of the core still in it, the other 2/3 had exploded and jammed sideways, filling the entire muffler. 30 seconds with a piece of rebar and it was cleared out again. Need to buy a new catcon I guess, I'm not too impressed, that last one was a $100+ quality unit and I only installed it about 9 months ago. It runs again  
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Jan 1, 2013 04:31
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Fuelslt1 fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Nov 28, 2018 |
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Jan 1, 2013 19:02
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Welp. My rear passenger side leaf spring sheared in half (and I still have to go to work today, woohoo for driving a death trap). Since I already have drop a pitman arm, TC drop, etc from the previous owner I went ahead and ordered Iron Rock Off Road 6.5" coils and 5.5" leafs with a 1" drop shackle. The sooner they get here the better. Blah.
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Jan 3, 2013 16:17
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OK because Cursedshitbox is a terrible influence..... http://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/3496259768.html I hear the actual repair for the door is easy. They mention that it doesn't run well... but a good tune up/fluids/etc should take care of it. The country is a pretty gussied up one right?
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Jan 4, 2013 09:19
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BrokenKnucklez posted:The country is a pretty gussied up one right? Think "Limited with manual cloth seats". My '93 had 297K on it. Don't sweat it.
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Jan 4, 2013 11:00
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Unless the unibody is tweaked and they're really good at hiding an accident.
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Jan 4, 2013 14:47
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Check the floor and rockers for rust, that's about it. I wonder where they found a 94 foot cherokee though. Gonna need an oversize permit to move that thing 
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Jan 4, 2013 15:35
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I am not to worried about the miles. 4.0L will be around after the cockroaches die off. I will take a look today, they just dropped the price to 500 bucks.....
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Jan 4, 2013 17:58
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What would cause front axle U-joints to wear out fast? I just replaced them in the spring and they're already giving me trouble.
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Jan 4, 2013 23:55
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owls or something posted:What would cause front axle U-joints to wear out fast? I just replaced them in the spring and they're already giving me trouble. Cheap pieces of poo poo to begin with? That or your toe is way out of spec, but you'd probably see that in your tires.
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Jan 5, 2013 00:14
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I know they weren't Spicer replacements, so I probably bought junk ones I guess. Sucks, lesson learned. Not looking forward to replacing them again, my hammer and I had a bitch of a time getting them apart without a press.
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Jan 5, 2013 00:39
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Not spicer is one red flag - did you make sure to get them seated properly (i.e. turning 100% freely) before reinstalling? Were they greasable? If they weren't, did you put a generous dab of your favorite grease in each cap before installing them, or use whatever grease came in them? If they were, did you grease them till it came out the seals after installation? Nongreasable - you should always at least 1/3rd fill the caps with quality grease before installing. For one, this helps keep the needle bearings from tipping over and crapping on your day, and it also significantly improves bearing lifespan since they're completely packed in grease from the start. Greasable - I like to preload the caps about 1/3rd full of grease to keep the bearings in place while I install the caps anyways, but always put the gun on em and pump till good clean grease comes out around the seals. Also, on seating the caps properly - get the retention clips into the grooves, then put one yoke ear on your vise or anvil and give the opposing ear a solid (not too solid) whack with your BFH. Repeat until that pair of ears swivels freely on the ujoint cross, then do the other two. If there is binding, either there's dirt in there somewhere that is going to crap all over the needle bearings, or the caps aren't properly seated into the ears and the extra pressure will wear out the plastic bushings that keep the ends of the trunnions from wearing into the caps and probably wear the seals excessively too. If you can't even get the caps pressed in deeply enough to get both retention clips on, you probably have a needle bearing tipped over sideways under the cap. That just sucks.
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Jan 5, 2013 01:43
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Based on the grinding and popping sounds I think I have a front u joint job very near. How bad is it to let a bad u joint slide another week if I go easy on it--is the worst that can happen I completely screw the spider that will be replaced anyways?
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Jan 5, 2013 04:33
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As long as the caps stay in (i.e. don't use 4x4 in the condition it's in, or go very easy on the throttle and only use it when absolutely necessary) the axle shafts it should slide for a while. Worst case is one or more of the caps coming out at highway speed (this has happened to me, usually due to trail damage or shafts I bought without realizing the seller had improperly installed the joints) and the inner axle shaft flopping up and down till it catches one of the balljoints, then separating the balljoints on you. Fortunately, I've always (the three times this has happened to me) heard/felt the loud clanging/popping and jerking and known that I needed to pull over immediately if I wanted my wheel to stay on. This is why I've been considering tack welding my ujoint caps in. Once a ujoint is at the end of its natural life and is rusted/seized in place, it's very unlikely that that will happen without some help. I had it happen to one shaft I'd stretched the ears on without realizing it plus two that I bought as a set from an idiot, not realizing they'd put the ujoints in improperly, they both spat a few caps within about a hundred miles.
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Jan 5, 2013 06:09
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So I recently got a job that will have me out of the state for the next 10 months. I live in Seattle, and my folks have offered to let me park my Jeep in their yard while I'm gone. What preparations do I need to do to my car so it doesn't turn into a lump of undrivable rust while I'm gone? It doesn't need to be operational. I already figured on getting a cover, since it doesn't have the most watertight windows. It's a 90 Cherokee, automatic 4.0 4WD. It already has the carpet removed.
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Jan 5, 2013 14:20
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Starter Wiggin posted:So I recently got a job that will have me out of the state for the next 10 months. I live in Seattle, and my folks have offered to let me park my Jeep in their yard while I'm gone. What preparations do I need to do to my car so it doesn't turn into a lump of undrivable rust while I'm gone? It doesn't need to be operational. I already figured on getting a cover, since it doesn't have the most watertight windows. It's a 90 Cherokee, automatic 4.0 4WD. It already has the carpet removed. Tarp and jack stands/blocks to keep it off the tires.
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Jan 5, 2013 15:32
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Agreed... disconnect the battery and put it on a charger if you can.
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Jan 5, 2013 16:15
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Starter Wiggin posted:So I recently got a job that will have me out of the state for the next 10 months. I live in Seattle, and my folks have offered to let me park my Jeep in their yard while I'm gone. What preparations do I need to do to my car so it doesn't turn into a lump of undrivable rust while I'm gone? It doesn't need to be operational. I already figured on getting a cover, since it doesn't have the most watertight windows. It's a 90 Cherokee, automatic 4.0 4WD. It already has the carpet removed. Give me the keys. I'll go take it to Evans or Walker or Tahuya or Naches or Rimrock once a month and make sure it doesn't get lonely.
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Jan 5, 2013 18:36
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