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I doubt you'll ever see it that cheap again unless a local store is clearing house. If you abuse Amazon's subscribe-n-save you can get Rotella-T for about 15 a gallon shipped to your door; Wal-Mart's about the same, but it's in-store pickup and I'm not sure if that means it's sealed or just the poo poo off their shelf. There was an AI horror story thread a while back about how people were abusing Wal-Mart's return policy by buying oil, changing oil, putting the old oil in the new bottles and taking it back for a full refund, and Wal-Mart just throwing it back on the shelf - enough to rule out buying oil there for me.
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Jan 8, 2013 06:31
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Snowdens Secret posted:
Whoa that's cool. vs Dinosaurs fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Jan 8, 2013 |
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Jan 8, 2013 07:11
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Incorrect but I'm far too close to civilization to prove it currently. Lots of stock maps apps use cell networks but you can get stand alone GPS programs that download the maps.
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Jan 8, 2013 07:29
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GPS works fine without network service, but all the satellites give you is a latitude, longitude and altitude. You need either a network connection or, as nsaP suggests, a standalone database of maps to do anything really useful. You can also use ruled paper maps and your lat/long fix if you don't need to do it on the road. Don't have an iPhone, but on Android I recommend something like MapFactor Navigator https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mapfactor.navigator if you need offline mapping.
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Jan 8, 2013 07:47
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Snowdens Secret posted:I doubt you'll ever see it that cheap again unless a local store is clearing house. If you abuse Amazon's subscribe-n-save you can get Rotella-T for about 15 a gallon shipped to your door; Wal-Mart's about the same, but it's in-store pickup and I'm not sure if that means it's sealed or just the poo poo off their shelf. Thanks for this! Did subscribe-and-save and it's $5 cheaper than K-Mart (only store around here that sells oil). Rotella T on subscription is great because my car also takes it in pretty copious amounts. I'll probably end up fully using the 6 month scheduled delivery date.  Also: Anybody know the oil nut washer size for an '01 Bandit 1200? Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 08:03 on Jan 8, 2013 |
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Jan 8, 2013 07:56
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nsaP posted:Incorrect but I'm far too close to civilization to prove it currently. If you know where you're going and you need something basic, the Google Maps app lets you pre-cache geographic areas. I use it to navigate USFS roads, even outside the cell network.
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Jan 8, 2013 16:35
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Sagebrush posted:Don't have an iPhone, but on Android I recommend something like MapFactor Navigator https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mapfactor.navigator if you need offline mapping. Another good one for android is OsmAnd
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Jan 8, 2013 16:42
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Hello, idiot question ahead that the answer to is almost certainly just powerbands, which in fairness I don't quite understand - Noticed if I'm upshifting from 3rd to 4th unless I do it right it's not just a case of it being slower to accelerate to top speed, it will not get there. Same with 4th to 5th, I'd imagine, to get to ~70+, but I can't get there at all, if anything it slows down in 5th, unless I'm downhill. Am I picking the wrong moment, is the powerband different there, or is it just a pish bike? Going up Ben Nevis and Loch Ness tomorrow, so I'd like to be able to get out of Glasgow fast to enjoy them!
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Jan 8, 2013 16:58
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Are you riding a little 125 or something, or a scooter? Some bikes and cars reach their maximum speed in 4th gear, but you shouldn't be actually slowing down in 5th with the throttle open. That would make 5th pretty useless. Engine power output isn't constant, but rather depends on the speed the engine is turning. The graph of output power vs. crankshaft speed looks like a flattened parabola: low power at idle, highest power somewhere in the middle, falling off again somewhat near redline. That specific point of highest power is variable but usually falls in the upper third or so. The range of engine speeds in which you can achieve maximum power is the "power band", meaning that if you keep the engine in that range, it will respond the best and accelerate the fastest. An engine with a wide powerband might pull hard from 3000rpm to 8000rpm, while a narrow-banded 2-stroke might only produce its maximum from like 7200 to 7500. Try this: put your bike in second or third gear on a wide-open road, slow down until just before the engine starts to lug, then open the throttle and hold it. As you accelerate, the bike will feel sluggish at first, then suddenly pick up and surge forwards, then back off a bit but continue accelerating. The engine speed you were in during the time of maximum acceleration roughly corresponds to your power band. I mean if you're riding a 250 or larger and it decelerates in 5th and you simply can't get above 70 even with the engine strung completely out, you might just have a tuning problem, but play around with the whole rev range first and see what it does.
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Jan 8, 2013 17:22
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Yeah, wee 125. Cheers for the advice, I should hopefully find a wide-open bit somewhere along the A82.
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Jan 8, 2013 18:24
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It wouldn't surprise me if that 125 is pushing the same ratios as a 250cc cousin. When you hit those tall gears, you don't have a lot of mechanical advantage to the wheel and you're also pushing some wind. If you can rule out tuning or maintenance issues and you're confident it's running like it should, going up a sprocket on the rear might give you just enough advantage to confidently wind out your high gears.
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Jan 8, 2013 19:09
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The thing to remember about those little bikes is to check the oil and ride them like you hate them. If you're not reving the piss out of it'll definitely do exactly what you're describing. When I ride Ninja 250s these days they're rarely below 9k (13kish redline), because the bike won't get out of it's own way below that. Your 125 is going to be the same way but even more so. The reason I say check the oil is they have a tendency to burn a bit of oil when you beat the poo poo out of them like you should, but that's normal, just make sure it's topped off regularly.
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Jan 8, 2013 19:28
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This is probably stating the blindingly obvious but, if you're heading uphill, it's a lot more strain on the engine. Sometimes it can be better to shift down instead. Also what Zen said about pinning it in every gear 
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Jan 8, 2013 20:23
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What kind of BMW is this?
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Jan 8, 2013 22:50
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Single front disc, 2-cyl inline engine. Seems like a 2008-up F650GS with loads and loads of extra poo poo to me.
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Jan 8, 2013 22:59
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Or F800GS with one brake caliper+disc removed. They use the same engine. And the 800 comes with inverted forks and spoke wheels. Why you'd remove a disc I can't imagine.
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Jan 8, 2013 23:16
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I found the bike on one other page, but there's nothing specific. Edit: He lists his bike as an R1200R, but it doesn't look right at all. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Jan 8, 2013 |
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Jan 8, 2013 23:54
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As the others have said, it's a F800GS with modified (or old?) fairings, headlight and a missing brake disc. I like the Autobot symbol on the instrument housing. Geirskogul posted:Edit: He lists his bike as an R1200R, but it doesn't look right at all.
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Jan 9, 2013 00:00
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Xovaan posted:Thanks for this! Did subscribe-and-save and it's $5 cheaper than K-Mart (only store around here that sells oil). Rotella T on subscription is great because my car also takes it in pretty copious amounts. I'll probably end up fully using the 6 month scheduled delivery date. I'm getting Rotella-T 10w40 for $13-18/gal at NAPA. There's a washer on the oil plug? Since when? I've got an '02. I don't notice any oil leaking (from there, anyway).
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Jan 9, 2013 03:56
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Oops! Yeah I have no idea then. I checked and there's no leaking at all from the bung but the front of the valve gasket has fresh oil on it meaning something is spilling from that area. But it was just replaced. I'm at a loss at this point. 
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Jan 9, 2013 05:10
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Collateral Damage posted:As the others have said, it's a F800GS with modified (or old?) fairings, headlight and a missing brake disc. Yeah, it looks like he's replaced the fairings with the Touratech extended fuel tank. gives you up to 475 Miles fuel range apparently.
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Jan 9, 2013 10:57
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Anyone try the new Wee-Strom? Will get a demo on it whenever the weather is nice enough, perhaps rent it for the weekend. I am so influenced by the "boring"-talk that I want to dislike it, but at the same time it ticks so many of my rational boxes. There's also the ... hmmm ... let's call it the glamour factor.  
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Jan 9, 2013 21:29
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Or F800GS with one brake caliper+disc removed. They use the same engine. And the 800 comes with inverted forks and spoke wheels. Why you'd remove a disc I can't imagine. Looks to be an F650GS, the "650" had the single front caliper and also had spoked wheels in 07+
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Jan 9, 2013 21:34
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ThatCguy posted:Looks to be an F650GS, the "650" had the single front caliper and also had spoked wheels in 07+ The 07+ F650GS has a different style disk than the bike in the picture (650 has a fixed front rotor, 800 has floating rotors like in the picture). Plus you can see the bracket and mounting holes on the right fork where the caliper used to attach. Still no idea why someone would remove a disk and caliper unless it was a trail fix of some sort.
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Jan 9, 2013 23:08
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Well, watch a few of his videos and see how crazy he is for yourself. Strangely high production values. Another video of his, but not on his YT account (he deleted his?). poo poo, here is his Vimeo account. Looks like it used to have two calipers. No clue why he took the other one off. Edit 2: His ADVRider posts suggest he took off one brake because he suffered an accident when the crossover brake line caught on his tire at 50mph in the dirt and ripped his front fender off. There's a video of his crash on his Vimeo account. Yeah, I don't understand the logic, either. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Jan 10, 2013 |
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Jan 9, 2013 23:21
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This might go better in the vintage bike thread, but this one gets more play so eh gently caress it: Do CV carburetors need to be re-jetted to run properly at high altitudes? Or does the vacuum diaphragm account for that automatically? I'm thinking of taking a road trip up into some high altitude locations (going from basically sea level up to a maximum of about 6500-7000 feet) and I'm wondering if my little CL will be able to handle it. I would expect to lose some power as the air thins out, and I'm expecting it to be running a little rough to boot, but I really don't want to start running so lean that the engine blows up. VVV oh, right. Duh. Still, are there likely to be serious fueling problems? Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 08:14 on Jan 10, 2013 |
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Jan 10, 2013 06:17
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Sagebrush posted:I would expect to lose some power as the air thins out, and I'm expecting it to be running a little rough to boot, but I really don't want to start running so lean that the engine blows up. You'll tend to run richer as the air thins, no problem there.
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Jan 10, 2013 07:31
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Likely dumb question but are certain brands of battery better than others? I'm replacing the battery on my commuter since the other one is on it's way out. Should I look at certain brands over others? 99 sv650, charging system working as it should, bike sees cold weather and large draw from heated gear. Also anyone keep a set of small motorcycle jumper cables under their passenger seat? NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Jan 10, 2013 |
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Jan 10, 2013 14:10
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If you're just talking about regular flooded batteries, I don't think there's any difference. The basic chemistry has been around since like 1850 without a whole lot of changes. I'd bet that most batteries are made in the same two or three factories in China anyway. For more modern stuff like AGMs...it's possible, I dunno. I've heard that you can blow up motorcycle electrics pretty quickly by jumping them from a car, so no, I don't have that. What I have done is jumped the bike with a 14v lithium-polymer battery from a radio-controlled helicopter; since a Li-poly holds its charge for like 2 years, I'm thinking of getting something like a little 3Ah unit that I can keep charged up and under the seat in case of emergency.
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Jan 10, 2013 20:09
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Sagebrush posted:I've heard that you can blow up motorcycle electrics pretty quickly by jumping them from a car, so no, I don't have that. What I have done is jumped the bike with a 14v lithium-polymer battery from a radio-controlled helicopter; since a Li-poly holds its charge for like 2 years, I'm thinking of getting something like a little 3Ah unit that I can keep charged up and under the seat in case of emergency. As long as the car isn't running you're safe, I've had to jump mine a few times. I ended up just picking up the recommended Yuasa battery for my bike.
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Jan 10, 2013 20:38
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12 volts is 12 volts, whether it comes from a motorcycle battery, a car battery, or a nuclear power plant with a 12V output. The only danger is when the car is running. If the car is off, you can jump just fine (and pretty damned quickly) from a car. I have an older car battery hooked up to a tender at the house for motorcycle troubleshooting. While experimenting and such, I use the car battery instead of a motorcycle battery for in-driveway starts, and if everything goes well I then hook up the motorcycle battery. This prevents unnecessary drain on a small, expensive battery while fiddling, greatly extending its life.
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Jan 10, 2013 20:54
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Geirskogul posted:12 volts is 12 volts, whether it comes from a motorcycle battery, a car battery, or a nuclear power plant with a 12V output. The only danger is when the car is running. If the car is off, you can jump just fine (and pretty damned quickly) from a car. I have a car jump starter (that also has a compressor for inflating tyres and a work light) that I keep around for that reason, although fortunately I've only had to use it the once. Only cost me like £20 10 years ago.
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Jan 10, 2013 21:00
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NitroSpazzz posted:As long as the car isn't running you're safe, I've had to jump mine a few times. I ended up just picking up the recommended Yuasa battery for my bike. That's a good call. I was going to recommend Yuasa myself, as the expensive but drat good option. I've thus far had good luck with Batteries Plus generic AGM batteries, but we'll see how those pan out in the long run.
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Jan 10, 2013 23:47
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The Oregon DMV motorcycle handbook says this:quote:Wobble TL;DR: Slow down and put weight on the front wheel when you get tank slapper. Isn't that the opposite of what you want to do? I've always heard you want to accelerate to move weight off the front wheel.
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Jan 10, 2013 23:56
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My Uly wobbles with loaded panniers over like 80mph, it's a pretty common thing with that bike; aggressive geometry, tall bike, lots of weight at the tail when it's loaded. I mitigate it in general by increasing preload on the rear when I run loaded, and correct it when it happens by tucking over the tank and putting additional weight on the grips. I think that supports the weight down/forward advice.
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Jan 11, 2013 00:01
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hayden. posted:The Oregon DMV motorcycle handbook says this: I think the wobble they mention is more of a mechanical issue that a grip issue usually associated with a tank slapper. In the mechanical issue case putting weight forward and slowing (slowly) makes sense. When you get a tank slapper from your front tire loosing grip then regaining it out of line from the rear you want to reduce weight on the front so it has less to fight against as it sorts itself out. I think...
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Jan 11, 2013 00:11
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This was posted in the pics/vids thread, seems relevant here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvsDIq3WwVA
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Jan 11, 2013 00:21
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clutchpuck posted:This was posted in the pics/vids thread, seems relevant here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvsDIq3WwVA Dat Macho Maroon XS...  Also extra weight alleviates weave, I'm good for life.
Frozen Pizza Party fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Jan 11, 2013 |
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Jan 11, 2013 00:31
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NitroSpazzz posted:I think the wobble they mention is more of a mechanical issue that a grip issue usually associated with a tank slapper. In the mechanical issue case putting weight forward and slowing (slowly) makes sense. When you get a tank slapper from your front tire loosing grip then regaining it out of line from the rear you want to reduce weight on the front so it has less to fight against as it sorts itself out. To expand on this a bit more, there's 2 types of wobble. The first type is what the MSF handbook and clutchpuck describe: Geometry, weight, or setup based issues. Those can be fixed by addressing the core issue that causes the wobble, which are covered by the MSF handbook. The second type is what you're thinking of - the back end gets out of line with the front, or the front loses grip, and throws the bike into a headshake motion. That is the sort of thing where you usually want to throttle out, get up and off the bike so you don't add your bodyweight to the inertia of the tankslapper, and stay light on the bars to allow the natural stability of the bike to sort itself out. I know some folks who want the bike to snap inwards on turn in, so they will compromise stability for the sake of quick turn in, and that makes for a hell of a ride when the thing starts slapping. That's also why you'll get different viewpoints on what "fixes" tankslappers for different people with different riding styles on bikes that have different setups.
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Jan 11, 2013 00:36
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Is there any situation where "Power out" isn't the correct answer?
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Jan 11, 2013 01:21
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