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atomicthumbs posted:
Dat grain.
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Jan 8, 2013 15:04
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Pushing E6!  How thin was that positive?
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Jan 8, 2013 21:26
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atomicthumbs posted:Kodak Ektachrome P1600. An 800-speed film meant to be pushable to 1600, shot at and pushed to 3200. This roll expired in 1994. Shot this on expired Portra on a white Christmas Eve (and subsequently Christmas!) 
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Jan 9, 2013 04:46
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I think I'm looking for the impossible. For less than €100 a (coat-)pocketable film camera, with manual controls. I'm second in line for a Canonet 28, but I'm not sure that'll work out and it's not ideal. It is rare that they come up for the price this one is going for (€15 + P&P.)
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Jan 10, 2013 12:44
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Mrenda posted:I think I'm looking for the impossible. For less than €100 a (coat-)pocketable film camera, with manual controls. I'm second in line for a Canonet 28, but I'm not sure that'll work out and it's not ideal. It is rare that they come up for the price this one is going for (€15 + P&P.) Hold out for a Canonet QL 17. Way better low-light performance (1.7 aperture vs. 2.8).
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Jan 10, 2013 14:15
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QPZIL posted:Hold out for a Canonet QL 17. Way better low-light performance (1.7 aperture vs. 2.8). The problem is that anything like a Canonet rarely comes up nationally (i.e. in Ireland.) So ebay or a camera shop is the only way. And the days of getting deals there are long gone.
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Jan 10, 2013 14:20
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Mrenda posted:The problem is that anything like a Canonet rarely comes up nationally (i.e. in Ireland.) So ebay or a camera shop is the only way. And the days of getting deals there are long gone. Don't lose hope! I picked up my QL17 a few months back on eBay for $50 (~38 euro). But then again, Irish eBay may be a bit different.
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Jan 10, 2013 14:23
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Another decent option is a Zorki with a collapsible lens. Cheap and there are a ton of them in eastern europe on ebay.
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Jan 10, 2013 14:51
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This is a great resource: http://japancamerahunter.com/2011/10/rangefinder-cameras-what-are-your-options/ All the "budget options" are good.
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Jan 10, 2013 15:02
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8th-samurai posted:Another decent option is a Zorki with a collapsible lens. Cheap and there are a ton of them in eastern europe on ebay. I had great luck with a FED-2 sporting a collapsible 50mm lens. I have it with me right now, it's sweet. On an unrelated topic, I have acquired a C-41 processing kit. This weekend I'm going to develop a roll or two. Wish me good luck. 
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Jan 10, 2013 15:05
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maxmars posted:I had great luck with a FED-2 sporting a collapsible 50mm lens. I have it with me right now, it's sweet. How much are those lenses? I have a Zorki and I wouldn't mind 'converting' it to a compact-ish camera. I have problem with this high contrast, tree heavy scene. No matter how much I colour correct, it always looks ugly to me. Here is the photo:  I just ended up turning it black and white, it looks much better that way I think, but I still want to know how to properly colour correct snow scenes. I've seen a lot of film shots of a snowy meadow with trees and poo poo and they make it look great. Here is the bw version. 
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Jan 10, 2013 17:50
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QPZIL posted:Hold out for a Canonet QL 17. Way better low-light performance (1.7 aperture vs. 2.8).
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Jan 10, 2013 17:51
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Santa is strapped posted:How much are those lenses? I have a Zorki and I wouldn't mind 'converting' it to a compact-ish camera. I've had nothing but trouble trying to get snow right, it always looks off-white and never what I remember the colour of it too be. This is the most happiest I've been with a snow shot, but you'll notice the sky looks a bit weird:  So I other words, I hear ya but I can't really help. e: Next to yours it looks really warm, and now I'm less happy with it 
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Jan 10, 2013 22:15
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Make a mask on the off-color areas and handle them individually.
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Jan 10, 2013 22:46
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I use curves and the eyedropper to figure out what parts of the curve need to be corrected how.
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Jan 10, 2013 23:03
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I shot my first roll of Portra over the holidays: F1000016a I will now be shooting more Portra.
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Jan 10, 2013 23:07
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Spedman posted:I've had nothing but trouble trying to get snow right, it always looks off-white and never what I remember the colour of it too be. This is the most happiest I've been with a snow shot, but you'll notice the sky looks a bit weird: I actually like the snow in your photo, but once you said it's warm, I noticed it too. Barely. dukeku posted:Make a mask on the off-color areas and handle them individually. And this is what I'll try to fix my problem. MrBlandAverage posted:I use curves and the eyedropper to figure out what parts of the curve need to be corrected how. Good tip, trying it now.
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Jan 10, 2013 23:31
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Santa is strapped posted:How much are those lenses? I have a Zorki and I wouldn't mind 'converting' it to a compact-ish camera. Uh, I wouldn't know. I got my Industar-10 together with the (fully serviced) camera for 100 Euros. Stopped down to f5,6 they're competent lenses.
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Jan 11, 2013 00:05
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Santa is strapped posted:I actually like the snow in your photo, but once you said it's warm, I noticed it too. Barely. It's kinda time intensive but making masks of differently lit areas is basically all you can do. Sometimes i cheat a little and for an area that's grey i'll just desaturate rather than try to find the precise color fix
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Jan 11, 2013 00:24
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Genderfluid posted:It's kinda time intensive but making masks of differently lit areas is basically all you can do. Sometimes i cheat a little and for an area that's grey i'll just desaturate rather than try to find the precise color fix Hah, I've done the gray masking too maxmars posted:Uh, I wouldn't know. I got my Industar-10 together with the (fully serviced) camera for 100 Euros. Cool, I'll look around
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Jan 11, 2013 01:45
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I love shooting snow on film. Even if I can't get it right. slide-velvia100 by SEJRamsay, on Flickr  magpie-velvia100 by SEJRamsay, on Flickr I do remember shooting this expired Tmax400, I think it's the last roll I shot through my Kiev 4 before I gave up on it. This is the only one I liked. I should probably rescan it and clean it up a bit but the rest of the roll was just so disappointing.  parliament-tmax400 by SEJRamsay, on Flickr
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Jan 11, 2013 08:27
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Nothing fancy, just some big rear end rolls of film http://www.boston.com/bigpicture/2013/01/125_years_of_national_geograph.html#photo2
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Jan 11, 2013 17:34
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Santa is strapped posted:Nothing fancy, just some big rear end rolls of film That looks like some 6x12 cm negatives, or close.
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Jan 11, 2013 18:10
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Yea, something along the lines of this: http://blip.tv/mn-original/chris-faust-6190686 6x17 120 film.
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Jan 11, 2013 19:01
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quote:Washing his films in iceberg-choked seawater was an everyday chore for photographer Oscar D. Von Engeln during the summer months he spent on a National Geographic-sponsored expedition in Alaska.  Wouldn't the salt in seawater be bad for this?
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Jan 11, 2013 19:46
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Man_of_Teflon posted:
I don't particularly think so, the salty water shouldn't make it worse than leaving a slight bit of fixer in the film. (I read somewhere about someone who left a developed film in a canister of sea water for about 24 hours and fixed it that way.) The bigger problem would probably be algae.
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Jan 11, 2013 19:53
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And if he's up where there is ice floating in the water, there's gonna be no algae. The processing would take ages with very cold water too.
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Jan 12, 2013 04:50
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From my first batch of C-41 development.. Pleased with the results and it doesn't seem too hard. Beginner's luck? Panorama Sestolese di maxmars70, su Flickr On a couple of pics I have stabilizer halos, but I have read that it's better not to wash negatives after the stab or you'd wash it away. Is there anything I could do about it?
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Jan 14, 2013 10:52
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I've found the best thing to do is after the stabiliser is just to pull the film out of the canister and not squeegee or try to remove the excess stabiliser and just let it dry. And yes, don't wash the stabiliser off, otherwise the film can degrade fairly quickly (apparently).
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Jan 14, 2013 12:20
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Spedman posted:I've found the best thing to do is after the stabiliser is just to pull the film out of the canister and not squeegee or try to remove the excess stabiliser and just let it dry. And yes, don't wash the stabiliser off, otherwise the film can degrade fairly quickly (apparently). Well that's what I am doing, too. I also put the film to dry on its thin side (looks like a snake on a table) so that the drops only have to travel 26 mm tops before getting out of mah film. I think it's got to do with the dilution of the stab. On the stab bottle it tells you to mix 475ml water + 25ml stab, but on the online instructions PDF and anywhere else on the internet, they say 225ml + 25ml for the same product. I think I may have a newish revision of the product and having followed (originally) the PDF instructions, I probably have too much stab and too little water. Does this make sense?
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Jan 14, 2013 14:32
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Thought you guys may enjoy this. I recently read an article about the "last" roll of Kodachrome, and this short documentary popped up in my feed today: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUL6MBVKVLI
Inf fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Jan 14, 2013 |
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Jan 14, 2013 17:19
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maxmars posted:Well that's what I am doing, too. I also put the film to dry on its thin side (looks like a snake on a table) so that the drops only have to travel 26 mm tops before getting out of mah film. I still hang my colour films, I want to avoid them sticking together and get the curl out of the film. With the stabilizer dilution I had the same issue, I've been using the Rollei Digibase kit, and the stabilizer was far too concentrated. It ended up with it almost looking like I'd sprayed milk on my film while I was trying to dry it. So go with the bottle instructions, plus it sounds like you'd end up less stabilizer solution than you need with the PDF instructions too.
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Jan 14, 2013 22:14
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This week I'll be attempting my first darkroom develop. I have a roll of Neopan 400 35mm ready to develop, all properly exposed. The developer the college has is HC110 and ID11. Does anyone have any advice before I attempt this? Thanks guys.
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Jan 14, 2013 22:19
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Quantum of Phallus posted:This week I'll be attempting my first darkroom develop. I have a roll of Neopan 400 35mm ready to develop, all properly exposed. The developer the college has is HC110 and ID11. I'd suggest going with HC110, dilution B. (Should give a 5 minute development time.) Prepare all your chemicals before starting, make sure you have somewhere ready to dispose of them too, and just take it easy. Have the developer mixed and measured, have some room temperature water ready for stop bath, and a measuring beaker and a bottle of prepared fixer. Don't measure the fixer until you you have the film in the stop bath, it smells bad. (You need to have the stop bath ready right when development finishes, but you can wait a bit between stop and fix, and between fix and wash.)
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Jan 14, 2013 22:43
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Thanks! I'll be doing it in my college's darkroom, which is pretty much fully kitted out for disposal as far as I can tell and I love the smell of photography chemicals (I print a lot in the darkroom) so that shouldn't be an issue.
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Jan 15, 2013 00:01
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Quantum of Phallus posted:Thanks! I'll be doing it in my college's darkroom, which is pretty much fully kitted out for disposal as far as I can tell and I love the smell of photography chemicals (I print a lot in the darkroom) so that shouldn't be an issue. Just for the record the only thing you should be dumping is spent HC-110 dil. B. and your wash water. You just need to be sure to dispose of your fixer right when it's exhausted, it's not a one-shot chemical like HC-110B.
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Jan 15, 2013 03:23
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Spedman posted:I still hang my colour films, I want to avoid them sticking together and get the curl out of the film. Processed a third roll and, with the new concentration, everything is better. I still have an occasional area that is blotched but everything is under control now. I'm really getting into it.  Fireworks over Sestola rook di maxmars70, su Flickr
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Jan 15, 2013 11:18
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Quantum of Phallus posted:This week I'll be attempting my first darkroom develop. I have a roll of Neopan 400 35mm ready to develop, all properly exposed. The developer the college has is HC110 and ID11. Good luck pal, you're in for some fun. Don't forget to post here your results. 
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Jan 15, 2013 11:20
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So, I just started photography and began with a film camera. My first 2-3 rolls went fine and good, but my third roll was a major gently caress up. I released the film and started rewinding, and heard a snap. I took a peek inside in a dark room and the film did indeed break off, but the shutter (I think) was fine. I took the camera to a photo lab, and they opened it up in a dark room and retrieved the (empty) canister, but didn't want to touch the film until I brought it to a repair shop. I went into the darkroom and got the film out myself, and when I took the camera out into the light, the shutter looked like this:  How would something like this even happen? The camera is special to me so I'm not going to toss it, but if it's going to be insanely expensive to repair then I'm not sure what I'll do.
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Jan 15, 2013 19:57
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| # ? May 12, 2024 18:27 |
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RoryGilmore posted:So, I just started photography and began with a film camera. My first 2-3 rolls went fine and good, but my third roll was a major gently caress up. I released the film and started rewinding, and heard a snap. I took a peek inside in a dark room and the film did indeed break off, but the shutter (I think) was fine. That is bizarre as gently caress. What camera was it? A nikon of some sort I'm guessing? Either way, your best bet might just be to buy a new camera to use, 35mm cameras are cheap enough on ebay or here that it can be hard to justify the cost of fixing it, if the spare parts even exist to fix it.
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Jan 15, 2013 20:01
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