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the walkin dude
Oct 27, 2004

powerfully erect.

obso posted:

your oil may be normal but that's not a good habit.

I know, the last owner had the oil changed at the bike dealership that I trust, over the summer, and I verified the oil change through said dealership.

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M42
Nov 12, 2012


Die-a-KNEES or Die-a-NE-zey? :raise:

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


M42 posted:

Die-a-KNEES or Die-a-NE-zey? :raise:

Die-NE-zeh.

I think.

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

obso posted:

your oil may be normal but that's not a good habit.

August was only 4-5 months ago, unless he's done several thousand hard miles in that time he's probably fine...

Other than one should probably change the oil pretty much right away any time you pick up a used bike just out of habit.

goddamnedtwisto
Dec 31, 2004

If you ask me about the mole people in the London Underground, I WILL be forced to kill you
Fun Shoe

M42 posted:

Die-a-KNEES or Die-a-NE-zey? :raise:

Deya-nayzy. Roughly.

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


It's "Dainese", not "Dianese".

the walkin dude
Oct 27, 2004

powerfully erect.
Hmm, in that line, how often should I be changing my motorcycles' oil if I push them hard routinely? I got the zx6r at 12500 miles, changed oil at 14200 miles. Every 1k, 2k? By pushing them hard, I mean accelerating a whole lot but not completely redlining them. More like reaching 10-12k often.

FlerpNerpin
Apr 17, 2006


the walkin dude posted:

Hmm, in that line, how often should I be changing my motorcycles' oil if I push them hard routinely? I got the zx6r at 12500 miles, changed oil at 14200 miles. Every 1k, 2k? By pushing them hard, I mean accelerating a whole lot but not completely redlining them. More like reaching 10-12k often.

That's basically what motorcycles do.

2-3k changes are more than fine.

More often if you are doing track days (and are fastish)

Ziploc
Sep 19, 2006
MX-5
I'm tempted to drill a hole in my Bandit's headlight to mount a euro marker light so I don't have to constantly have the low beam on all the time.

I'm currently using an NA headlight reflector that doesn't have a front marker light. I have a spare euro reflector that does, but the beam pattern is not right for North American roads.

Are there any SV650N/GSF1200N/GSF600N headlight reflectors that were used both with a small marker light and in a country that drove on the right side of the road?

Or are markers not visible enough during the day?

You can see it here: http://www.visordown.com/image.aspx?url=/uploads/images/Large/14328.jpg

I have the switch for it now. I'm just wondering if I should,

A) Run with no lights for/aft during day time riding.
B) Run with just the tail light illuminated during day time riding.
C) Modify my reflector to have the front marker light and the tail light illuminated during day time riding.
D) Run with the low beam and tail light illuminated during day time riding.

Of course if there was a reflector with the marker from a market where the drove on the right I'll probably just get that.

Thoughts?

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

KozmoNaut posted:

Die-NE-zeh.

I think.

The native Italian guy I asked about this a while back confirmed the above pronunciation.

Ziploc posted:

I'm tempted to drill a hole in my Bandit's headlight to mount a euro marker light so I don't have to constantly have the low beam on all the time.

Thoughts?

Why are you thinking of doing this? The headlight makes a huge difference to how visible you are. The couple of times I've forgotten to turn the headlight on (and the time that the low beam burnt out without my noticing), I've encountered like triple the number of idiots merging into me, cutting me off, taking my right of way, etc. You're already a tiny little vehicle that people aren't used to looking for, but a bright spot of light always draws the eye. Running without a headlight will make you far less safe while having no benefit that I can think of.

Do (D).

e: in that vein, does anyone else find that when cars do notice you, they tend to give up the right of way? I've lost track of how many times I've come for a four-way stop well after someone else, but been waved on ahead. It's good, I suppose, but it's also kind of annoying to me because it's making the intersection less predictable for any other cars that might be thinking of squirting through.

Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Jan 15, 2013

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar

the walkin dude posted:

Hmm, in that line, how often should I be changing my motorcycles' oil if I push them hard routinely? I got the zx6r at 12500 miles, changed oil at 14200 miles. Every 1k, 2k? By pushing them hard, I mean accelerating a whole lot but not completely redlining them. More like reaching 10-12k often.

Bro your poo poo is gonna blow up.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000

M42 posted:

Die-a-KNEES or Die-a-NE-zey? :raise:

KozmoNaut posted:

Die-NE-zeh.

goddamnedtwisto posted:

Deya-nayzy. Roughly.
I found this lovely website that lets me pronounce all my awesome Italian bike words:

http://www.forvo.com/word/aprilia/#it
http://www.forvo.com/word/dainese/#it
http://www.forvo.com/word/moto_guzzi/#it
http://www.forvo.com/word/marzocchi/#it

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007



http://www.forvo.com/word/cortocircuito/#it
http://www.forvo.com/word/guasto/#it
http://www.forvo.com/word/carro_attrezzi/#it

Chauncey
Sep 16, 2007

Gibbering
Fathead


Hi all, I recently purchased a 78 yz125. I am having trouble sourcing certain parts and had a question related to the ignition system.

If I can't find factory replacement ignition coil for my bike, how would I go about sourcing one that will work on my bike? Are there any important considerations or will any old coil from a 2 stroke built in the late 70s-80s work?

Thanks for your time!

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
I wouldn't be surprised if you can use old ford truck coils like I did in my Yamaha R5. You need to find a vintage Yamaha enthusiast forum.

goddamnedtwisto
Dec 31, 2004

If you ask me about the mole people in the London Underground, I WILL be forced to kill you
Fun Shoe

KozmoNaut posted:

It's "Dainese", not "Dianese".

How weird, I'd never noticed that.

M42
Nov 12, 2012


KozmoNaut posted:

It's "Dainese", not "Dianese".

:aaa: My god. Good thing I've never had to actually say it.

2ndclasscitizen
Jan 2, 2009

by Y Kant Ozma Post
Can anybody recommend some handguards that fit by being clamped down by the bar end, like this?:



Wanna get a set but keep my bar end mirrors.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi
Hey dudes, is there a new page for the biekwiki? I'm thinking of making a poor life choice.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

It's been down for a couple of years now. Ask away!

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

Sagebrush posted:

It's been down for a couple of years now. Ask away!

Are there any websites that I could look over that just have a good first time motorcycle buyers guide? I've figured out I should be looking at something like a 250cc bike, but I have no idea about one versus another, and I have no idea where/what kind of riding gear I should be looking at. I don't want to annoy you guys with questions I'm sure have been asked 1000 times.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

You can browse around the various threads here and get an idea, but there isn't really a straight up beginner's guide that I know of.

Before you buy a bike, take the MSF (motorcycle safety foundation) safety course in your state. That'll give you 10 hours or so of riding time and a lot of good starter tips. You'll also find out how much you actually like motorcycling (likely a lot, but if it turns out to not be your thing, then all you're out is a couple hundred for the course). If you do go on to buy a bike and get into riding, you'll have a good set of basic skills to build on instead of bad habits, and there's almost always a nice insurance discount too.

To be safe you need at least a full-face helmet (not the 3/4 kind or the little shorty beanies -- most impacts occur in the face and chin area), a motorcycle-specific jacket (leather is best), above-the-ankle boots and leather gloves. Motorcycle-specific boots and gloves are significantly superior to hiking boots and leather work gloves, but you can usually get away with what you might already have for the MSF at least.

Pick what style of bike you want -- general categories for starting out these days are sporty standards (styled like a race bike, but not as harsh and unforgiving as a real one), dual-sports (street-legal dirt bikes basically) and cruisers (harleys). There are good options in all those categories that will exceed every speed limit in the country while being safe for a beginner to learn on. You can also pick up an older UJM ("universal japanese motorcycle") for not too much money, and some of these are coincidentally good learning bikes -- but they often require some work and will need more frequent maintenance than something brand new.

General guidelines for a safe first bike, in my opinion, are <40 horsepower and <400 pounds. You'll hear a lot of debate on what is "safe" for a new rider -- in the USA you can start on whatever you like, while in Europe you have to start on a 125 and gradually move up the classes over a couple of years, with multiple tests along the way. Take from that what you will.

This is from 4chan, and I don't agree with all of their statements (notably they say 750cc or less -- I think that's too big for anything but a cruiser) but there is some good info in there:

Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Jan 17, 2013

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi
Any good places to find motorcycle gear online? edit: whoops, saw the gear thread. :v:

Is an SV650 too much bike for a first bike?

Residency Evil fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Jan 17, 2013

Mr. Eric Praline
Aug 13, 2004
I didn't like the others, they were all too flat.
So the oil cooler on my Street Triple broke, and flooded the cooling system with oil. (Fortunately it didn't go the other way, so no coolant in the oil.) I've got the replacement part bolted on, and filled the system with distilled water. The plan is to run the bike to temp, drain the water, do it again if the water comes out all sludgy.

Question is, how concerned should I be with getting all the oil out of the cooling system, and is there any better way to do it?

M42
Nov 12, 2012


Residency Evil posted:

Any good places to find motorcycle gear online?

Is an SV650 too much bike for a first bike?

http://www.revzilla.com/

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/

http://www.dainese.com/

http://www.alpinestars.com/

SV650 is ok for a first bike, but most of the time I've seen it recommended for people who have a little dirtbike/atv experience. That said, if you have a good head on your shoulders and aren't a dumbass squid, you will be fine with an SV.

Mr. Eric Praline
Aug 13, 2004
I didn't like the others, they were all too flat.

Residency Evil posted:

Any good places to find motorcycle gear online?

Is an SV650 too much bike for a first bike?
most of the big ones like revzilla, motorcyclegear, and motorcycle-superstore are fine and pretty much the same. You can usually find one with better shipping than another. Revzilla does in depth video "reviews" of a lot of products. They're always really positive reviews, but it's helpful to see a lot of detail and make your own calls.

I'm of the opinion that the SV650 is a near perfect first bike if it's in good shape.

nsaP
May 4, 2004

alright?
http://motorcyclegear.com is good too. Great customer service.

SV650s make the list of acceptable first bikes but I would still recommend something a bit lighter, smaller, and a bit less power for a first bike. I think sometimes people underestimate just how nice it is to learn to ride on a super light bike. At 450 lbs or so the SV isn't huge but it isn't small either. Personally I'd go for more on the Ninja 250 size, but that's just me. The downsides of the 500s is, while they make more power than the 250 while still being a learner bike, they're usually just about as heavy as a 650 twin or 600 4 cylinder standard. Under 400 lbs would be my goal.

Baller Witness Bro
Nov 16, 2006

Hey FedEx, how dare you deliver something before your "delivered by" time.
I'll be the first to say that I don't think water alone is going to remove all the oil from the bike. I think it's going to take some effort to really get all of it out. I'd say run some diluted simple green / degreaser through there but even that sketches me out. Soap will leave some film most likely, even simple green might. If it were me I'd probably run a batch of water through, then simple green, then water again a bunch of times until I was convinced there's not any hanging around in there.

I've never really thought of what to do if oil gets in the passages and it'll probably be fine but I'm imagining an oil droplet acting similar to an air bubble and blocking a passage somewhere before wreaking havoc. That probably won't be true in practice once the coolant heats it up to operating temperature but still. Might as well be sure it's all out of there.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi
edit: I'm dumb

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Residency Evil posted:

Any good places to find motorcycle gear online? edit: whoops, saw the gear thread. :v:

Is an SV650 too much bike for a first bike?

My opinion is an sv650 is an excellent second bike as, having taught a friend to ride on mine, the engine can be very choppy and over-responsive at crawling speeds compared to something smaller. Plus, chances are you'll drop it (don't go into it expecting this to happen, I'm just saying it's a reasonable possibility) and SV's don't accept falling over very gracefully vs something with fairings, like a ninja or what have you.

For what it's worth, unfaired bikes can be harder to manage at highway speeds for a newbie.

nsaP
May 4, 2004

alright?

JP Money posted:

I'll be the first to say that I don't think water alone is going to remove all the oil from the bike. I think it's going to take some effort to really get all of it out. I'd say run some diluted simple green / degreaser through there but even that sketches me out. Soap will leave some film most likely, even simple green might. If it were me I'd probably run a batch of water through, then simple green, then water again a bunch of times until I was convinced there's not any hanging around in there.

I've never really thought of what to do if oil gets in the passages and it'll probably be fine but I'm imagining an oil droplet acting similar to an air bubble and blocking a passage somewhere before wreaking havoc. That probably won't be true in practice once the coolant heats it up to operating temperature but still. Might as well be sure it's all out of there.

My initial thoughts were similar but I have no experience with oil mixing in coolant lines. I would think you'd want to flush something more than water thru to grab the oil and take it out, but I don't know if that could affect the radiator or the motor or whatever.

If it was me I'd be trying to find someone who'd done the same thing before. Either that or stick to water, hot water, and do it multiple times while checking what comes out every time for oil.

Slavvy posted:

My opinion is an sv650 is an excellent second bike as, having taught a friend to ride on mine, the engine can be very choppy and over-responsive at crawling speeds compared to something smaller. Plus, chances are you'll drop it (don't go into it expecting this to happen, I'm just saying it's a reasonable possibility) and SV's don't accept falling over very gracefully vs something with fairings, like a ninja or what have you.

For what it's worth, unfaired bikes can be harder to manage at highway speeds for a newbie.

I agree. Combining what you said about the choppy throttle with a heavier bike and it's a pain at slow speeds, I know that with my FZ6. A ninja 250 by comparison is a dream at parking lot speeds. I also noticed the choppy throttle of my FZ6 holding back my corner speed. It was only after I learned better throttle control and body weighting on a 250 that I was able to feel more comfortable with my FZ6, and compensate for the throttle with mad ridin' skillz.

nsaP fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Jan 17, 2013

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Mr. Eric Praline posted:

So the oil cooler on my Street Triple broke, and flooded the cooling system with oil. (Fortunately it didn't go the other way, so no coolant in the oil.) I've got the replacement part bolted on, and filled the system with distilled water. The plan is to run the bike to temp, drain the water, do it again if the water comes out all sludgy.

Question is, how concerned should I be with getting all the oil out of the cooling system, and is there any better way to do it?

I have dealt with this several times at work due to oil coolers failing on cars this way. Every time we've just mixed simple green or similar with water, repeatedly driven the vehicle and drained the system. Rinse and repeat.

If manufacturer warranty finds this acceptable I'm certain your trip will take it in stride :)

2ndclasscitizen
Jan 2, 2009

by Y Kant Ozma Post

Mr. Eric Praline posted:

So the oil cooler on my Street Triple broke, and flooded the cooling system with oil. (Fortunately it didn't go the other way, so no coolant in the oil.) I've got the replacement part bolted on, and filled the system with distilled water. The plan is to run the bike to temp, drain the water, do it again if the water comes out all sludgy.

Question is, how concerned should I be with getting all the oil out of the cooling system, and is there any better way to do it?

How did that happen? Doesn't the Striple have a separate oil cooler?

ReelBigLizard
Feb 27, 2003

Fallen Rib

Residency Evil posted:

Is an SV650 too much bike for a first bike?

My opinion on starter bikes is probably less conservative than most on this forum; For a new rider who is cognizant enough to ask this question, my answer is "No, you should be fine on an SV650", especially if you have any riding experience whatsoever, or you know your way around a manual gearbox/clutch.

My theory is that you're generally better off with a single or twin motor of 650 or less, the power will come on lower in the rev range and be a lot less 'peaky'. The first time I tried an i4 (a friend's Bandit 650) I was totally underwhelmed for the first few miles until I found the power band way up the rev range, which was a minor brown-trousers moment because I wasn't expecting it.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Hey is there any interest in starting the biek wiki back up? I have a site that has been around for 5 years and isn't going anywhere in the near future, so I can host something if need be.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
Yes.

Edit: Well, before I say yes, does anyone know of a really good existing generic bike wiki which pretty much has most if not all the content CA would dish out anyways?

epswing fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Jan 17, 2013

Collateral Damage
Jun 13, 2009

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Hey is there any interest in starting the biek wiki back up? I have a site that has been around for 5 years and isn't going anywhere in the near future, so I can host something if need be.
As long as people are interested in contributing to the content. Hosting it is the easy part.

e: The only bike wiki I know of is http://motorcycles.wikia.com/wiki/Special:AllPages, which is pretty spartan. And it's on wikia.

ee: Also, biekwiki dot com is available. :toot:

Collateral Damage fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Jan 17, 2013

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




epalm posted:

Edit: Well, before I say yes, does anyone know of a really good existing generic bike wiki which pretty much has most if not all the content CA would dish out anyways?

I agree with this. If we're contributing something unique, then I think its worth while. EIther way, if we want to make it something unique, its worth it as well, we could have reviews and stuff like that as well

XYLOPAGUS
Aug 23, 2006
--the creator of awesome--
A biek wiki would be awesome, especially goon-run / moderated. Heck, I would give :10bux: to help with hosting since SA helped me out quite a bit with my first biek.

On the SV650 talk: the buddy of mine who got me interested in motorcycling had an SV650 and took me on a mini-MSF in his neighborhood over one weekend. This is what hooked me on bikes, but he convinced me that I needed to start on a Ninja 250. I have about 7,000 miles on the 250 now and have already purchased an SV650 as my second bike. I'm super excited about it, but I have zero regrets starting on the 250. I could even see myself riding the 250 exclusively on the twisties if I were to keep it when I move back to TX (where the SV is waiting for me).

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Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

I started on a Ninja 650 (and was cross-shopping with SV650s) and am really glad I ended up on it. After reading CA and other non-squid forums and taking the MSF and all that, I got the impression of "you 'gon die if you go bigger than a 250" so I really questioned if I was making a wise choice looking at the 650 class. I think if you're already asking the question you probably have a good enough head on your shoulders. The 650s are pretty tame bikes with linear power bands that don't really surprise you. If you can resist riding like a complete and total dong you'll be fine IMO. It's nothing like jumping on a 600 or 1000 supersport right after finishing the MSF.

Yeah, maybe a 250/300 is a bit lighter with a bit less choppy throttle, but the 650s are hardly unmanageable for certain types of beginners that "get it" pretty quickly.

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