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Consistent lean-running will definitely make an engine run hotter. A decent chunk of the cooling of a gasoline engine is that mixing gasoline with air, and the decrease in pressure as it passes the throttle plate, reduces the temperature of the incoming mix. Not to mention that lean mixtures burn hotter. Tackle the lean-run first and put off the search for overheating unless the coolant is low or turning into liquid rust, or some other obvious cooling problem.
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Jan 18, 2013 09:34
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EightBit posted:Consistent lean-running will definitely make an engine run hotter. A decent chunk of the cooling of a gasoline engine is that mixing gasoline with air, and the decrease in pressure as it passes the throttle plate, reduces the temperature of the incoming mix. Not to mention that lean mixtures burn hotter. Tackle the lean-run first and put off the search for overheating unless the coolant is low or turning into liquid rust, or some other obvious cooling problem. Well that's it really. A dying fuel pump is a good fit. If it's not the cause it doesn't really matter because it needed replacing anyway. It's better than chasing ghosts.
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Jan 18, 2013 10:51
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Too cold/lazy to change my own oil on my prizm and I was 1000 miles+ overdue, and I am taking a trip today, so had a $16 off coupon for oil chnage+tire rotation. Told them not to fill my washer fluid since I use rainX, and didn't want an air filter since I have an extra at home: filled up my washer tank with blue poo poo and immediately threw out my air filter, charged me $22 for the new one. $57 total ! I just wanted a goddamn $20 oil change. It wasn't even worth getting worked up over, I could have thrown a fit but I just wanted to get the gently caress out of there. So I drive down the road a block and my car sounds like a full on ricer, so I pull over to check the airbox and it was not latched on at all. Never again will I bring my car in for minor service, no matter how cold it is...
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Jan 18, 2013 20:28
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Geirskogul's Guide to Changing the Valve Body on a 1997-2004 Ford Explorer 4.0 SOHC You will need: Basic Tool Set with Metric Socket Wrenches New Valve Body Automatic Transmission Filter 5 Quarts Mercon V Transmission Fluid Transmission Pan Gasket 3-4 Hours of Time Step 1: Kill yourself.
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Jan 19, 2013 00:29
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Voltage posted:Too cold/lazy to change my own oil on my prizm and I was 1000 miles+ overdue, and I am taking a trip today, so had a $16 off coupon for oil chnage+tire rotation. Reminds me of the only time my BMW has ever seen a dealer while under my ownership. I had to take it in because the trim shop I took it to to have the headliner redone hosed something up under the hood (I don't know either) and it had to have an "official" diagnosis before they'd cover the repairs. They looked it over, found the culprit (a grommet had come off of the traction control actuator and caused the flap in the intake to stick shut) plus $2000 or so worth of "highly recommended repairs".  There were a couple legit little things that I had on the schedule for the summer anyway, plus a bunch of bullshit high margin items. Needless to say, I declined all of that poo poo. They brought my car around, and I immediately looked it over before going anywhere because (after many bad experiences) I don't trust most shops, especially dealerships.Good thing I did. They had left the loving radiator cap off.  A BMW dealer charging $135/hr for labor had done something that could have cooked my loving engine in minutes, had I trusted them and driven off in it. Completely loving incompetent.e: hmm, or maybe it was a little intentional "gently caress you" for declining their overpriced bullshit work?  Either way, completely inexcusable.
Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Jan 19, 2013 |
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Jan 19, 2013 00:35
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Nothing. Went to get some EFI fuel hose, but apparently the mechanics aren't open today. I could have sworn at least two of them were open on Saturday morning. Goddamnit.
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Jan 19, 2013 00:53
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Black88GTA posted:They had left the loving radiator cap off. And if you had the service manager would have denied their having touched anything under the hood, leaving you to foot the bill.
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Jan 19, 2013 04:34
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Geirskogul posted:Geirskogul's Guide to Changing the Valve Body on a 1997-2004 Ford Explorer 4.0 SOHC Step 2: After failing to kill yourself (because the jackstand you tried to beat your head with is a Ford product and it, like its brethren, fails at any task put forth to it) simply lie down, hold your knees, and wait to die by exposure.
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Jan 19, 2013 06:52
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I broke the driver's side door lock linkage 
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Jan 19, 2013 14:59
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What i did today was pay out of my rear end for a new turbo. I was on a nice little vacation visiting a friend in Wales and we were gonna drive from Cardiff to Swansea to take a look at the coast and all that stuff. While being on the motorway i couldn't help but notice a certain lack of power. Let me tell you, if you think a 109 HP turbodiesel is underpowered anyway, its a whole new dimension of underpowered when the turbo stops working. Well after crawling up a hill while the engine made sounds like it was eating up gravel and spewing amazing amounts of smoke out of the back i figured i'd should probably stop. "Your turbo's gone mate!" said the man from AA. Well no poo poo. Seeing as i was about 850 miles and 4 countries away from home, in the middle of some deserted industrial area on the outskirts of Swansea i figured i'd let the AA deal with this poo poo, flew home and got the car shipped home to Germany and to my dads garage. "Your turbo's gone son!" Yeah ok i get it! Looks like the oil line that goes into the turbo is not exactly generously designed. And because its not enough to make it as small as possible they also put a teeny tiny filter at the end of it. A teeny tiny filter that really enjoys clogging up! And if it does the turbo suddenly finds itself without oil which, not surprisingly, causes it to disintegrate pretty quickly. So we put in a new turbo, threw away that loving filter, cleaned oil out of pretty much every part of the engine down to the cat and i payed about 700€ for the parts and 300€ for the flight home which i will hopefully get reimbursed. I'm loving lucky my dad owns a garage, i don't even wan't to know what that poo poo would have cost me if i had to have it done at the dealership... But at least it only took 2 weeks to get the car shipped to germany and i didn't have to drive by myself in Wales. Instead i had to throw money at taxis and could enjoy smelly bus rides! Lovely! Its also nice to know that this particular engine is used by Peugeot, Citroen and Ford over here so im pretty sure im not the only person with this experience. Great engine design! poo poo this has gotten way longer than i expected...
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Jan 19, 2013 17:31
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That sucks  . Which engine is it? I have a TD Ford, and I'm hoping it's not the same one as you have.For content - today I painted my wiper arms and cleaned some window seals.
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Jan 19, 2013 18:17
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Its the HDi FAP 110 HP 1.6 liter engine. It probably has some other name in a Ford. But it seems with these small diesel engines you should take your oil change interval serious anyway. My dad pretty much said "Don't listen to the manual or what the car tells you, change the oil every 15000km! And don't use the cheap stuff!" So im gonna do that now and hope the next turbo survives a bit longer...
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Jan 19, 2013 18:50
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Used the ranger method to change my clutch fluid on the C5Z today. Hope that fixes my notchy shifting problem. I'm really hoping that I don't need to put a new clutch in.
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Jan 19, 2013 20:56
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Heat wave in New York (45) means I can get things done before the sun goes down. Project 1 - Alfa oil change. Done annually since I don't put many miles on it. Oil that came out was SO CLEAN. Why the 2.5L takes 7.5 quarters of oil?     Project 2 - Winter wheels/tires on week-old MazdaSpeed3. Died a little inside. Going to get them powercoasted grey over the summer. Perhaps.   
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Jan 19, 2013 21:11
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Shai-Hulud posted:Its the HDi FAP 110 HP 1.6 liter engine. It probably has some other name in a Ford. Can you take the filters out? Subarus with filters on the turbo oil feed line are why they started cranking down their "mileage between oil changes" number for awhile (although it was to like 5000-6000km...)
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Jan 19, 2013 21:33
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Can you take the filters out? Subarus with filters on the turbo oil feed line are why they started cranking down their "mileage between oil changes" number for awhile (although it was to like 5000-6000km...) Yeah we took out the filter in the oil line. It was just a tiny bit of metal mesh anyway. Im pretty sure the turbo can take a bit of sludge better than no oil at all because the filter clogged up.
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Jan 19, 2013 21:43
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Fixed the Volvo's loose wiper arm, throttle (the cable had jumped the track) and replaced the passenger side hood catch, so the hood closes fully again. She's back to her old self again!
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Jan 19, 2013 21:56
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I've accepted that I'm probably going to have to repaint the underside of my front bumper when I get around to selling my FR-S in several years.
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Jan 19, 2013 23:36
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Put new calipers and brake hoses on the f150 New and old  Everything in place 
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Jan 20, 2013 09:44
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I'm afraid I just blue myself.
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Jan 20, 2013 20:02
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No, I think you just hosed yourself.
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Jan 20, 2013 20:22
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Detroit Q. Spider posted:No, I think you just hosed yourself. Don't care. Had sex. Or less cryptically not everybody's tastes are the same. If you like it, good for you.
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Jan 20, 2013 23:20
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Installed new rear door speakers in the truck, but can't completely reassemble things because I'm still waiting on the interior spray I ordered to redo the horrid looking rusty speaker grilles and I don't want to pull it all apart again. Then, discovered a worrisome oil pressure issue. Hopefully nothing serious.
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Jan 20, 2013 23:39
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Black88GTA posted:Installed new rear door speakers in the truck, but can't completely reassemble things because I'm still waiting on the interior spray I ordered to redo the horrid looking rusty speaker grilles and I don't want to pull it all apart again. On the Escalade?
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Jan 20, 2013 23:43
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Rhyno posted:On the Escalade? Yep. I posted about it in the stupid questions thread. Basically, oil pressure used to hover around ~35 psi at hot idle, now (after a 500 mile expressway trip) it's at 20. I'm hoping it's just a gunked up pickup tube or dissolved o-ring.
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Jan 21, 2013 00:06
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I removed the mystery device from the fuel pump and fitted a short length of hose. The gap between pump and hard line was only a few mm. The mystery device was: *drumroll* Nothing. Or more precisely it seems to be some kind of bastard child connector dreamt up in the fevered mind of an engineer in fear of their job. Picture for reference:  Here's how I think it may work: That brown center section appears to have rubber or silicone donuts in the ends. The black end caps push over the barbs on the brown piece, compressing the end of the donuts causing them to close, sphincter-like over the part penetrating them. Clipped together there was a lot of slop. I don't know if it was intentional but it couldn't have sealed well. Also there was no way of non-destructively removing it because the fuel pump is kind of sandwiched there between the hard line and the base plate of the sender / pump assembly. The only way it could have even been put there was if the sock was crimped on after the pump was installed. Oh crap I hope I had the sock oriented the right way when I put the assembly back in. addendum: Took it for a drive to the bakery and went the long way round out of town to the 100km/h zone and back. Takes a little longer to start than I'd like but generally acceptable. Seems to have a "gently caress you, I'm still cold" mode where it's as sluggish as hell and trying to use too much throttle results in it farting and complaining. Fuel pump is making a slight buzzy whiny noise. Acceleration still isn't world beating but it's probably not far off what it should be for a long geared heavy car with a 302W. Pegging the throttle results in it being an anaemic bitch. A bit shy of that and it's fine. When I got back from the bakery and my quick drive I let it idle while I checked the mail. It was missing a noticeable amount. It needs new leads so that's probably why. General_Failure fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Jan 21, 2013 |
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Jan 21, 2013 01:15
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General_Failure posted:I removed the mystery device from the fuel pump and fitted a short length of hose. The gap between pump and hard line was only a few mm. That may or may not be a fuel pulsation damper. 2nd gen Escorts had these. Those had a little medal half dome on the side of a plastic pipe with two dinky stupid little rubber bushings that of course got tired and let tons of fuel pressure leak out. It was only friction fit over two metal fuel tubes. I assume the inside had a little speaker looking membrane. Totally pointless and made for hard starts. Apparently in the 80's when engineers started doing fuel injection they were unreasonably flipped out that the "high" pressure pulsations would kill regulators and injectors. So lots of stuff designed in the 80's had these fuel pump killing turds.
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Jan 21, 2013 03:33
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Yesterday: - New shocks in the rear - Removed one leaf from rear Splitting the leaf pack involved cutting the old u-bolts off. Started using the Canadian Tire brand cutoff wheels I bought, but then switched to POWERFIST - they are about 1/4 or so the thickness and took way less time. After re-installing everything, it rides like it actually has a suspension in the rear now. I am thinking more that it has an aftermarket spring pack - there were 5 leaves plus the overload (now 4), with the going from the front shackle to just past the axle. After removing it, the frame height is ~19.5 inches versus 21 in. before (measured just forward of the curve upwards at the rear axle. I've been getting vibration from the rear at ~40 km/h and 80 km/h, less so at 80. I got the tires balanced and while they were quite bad, it didn't solve it. With the rear lower now, the vibration is less, but still there. I am thinking it's the U joints, since it only happens when I am accelerating or maintaining speed, not coasting. When it warms up from this, I'll be washing and taking pictures... Edit - remembered to hook up the parking brake cable tonight, and re-adjusted the torsion bars down a little, again. After measuring them, they are a ~25 mm diameter bar, and stock is 22.8 from what I've seen. Likely why it rides pretty stiff still up front. Also, at -26C outside, an uninsulated garage is not that warm. Timmy Cruise fucked around with this message at 07:24 on Jan 21, 2013 |
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Jan 21, 2013 03:43
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Started working on a truck I just inherited. It's a 95 F150, manual with a straight six. When you pour water in the radiator it exits the rear of the block at the same rate. Because of this:  I actually had some the right size laying around the shop (some brass, some steel):  It took me 8 hours to get all this crap off and now I have to put it back on. I guess I'll change the leaky valve cover gasket while I'm here. The inside of all the intake runners are full of oil. I'm guessing the rings are shot so I'm going to get it running and sell it on Craigslist.  Wish me luck. Citycop fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Jan 21, 2013 |
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Jan 21, 2013 05:13
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We had relatively warm weekend so I vacuumed out the GTP and rubbed some leather conditioner into the seats. They smell so good and feel all smooth and slippy. They absolutely glow with a nice coat of Mcguires on them. Its a much nicer place to be with freshly attended to seats. L Also trouble shot a malfunctioning headrest DVD player in my girlfriends Ford Focus. Well, kids are morons and managed to knock the cables loose due to vigorous kicking and other poorly behaved things that they do. I just pulled apart the seat again, reconnected the lovely s-video cable and wrapped a goodly amount of zip ties and heat shrink insulation. That having been said, I now believe that a family that has 2+ kids to shlep around needs rear facing DVD players. The monetary investment is eclipsed by the amount of peace and quiet when both of my prepubescent boys can watch their own movie with their own headphones. Many long and stupid tantrums have been averted.
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Jan 21, 2013 05:58
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Guy Random posted:That may or may not be a fuel pulsation damper. 2nd gen Escorts had these. Those had a little medal half dome on the side of a plastic pipe with two dinky stupid little rubber bushings that of course got tired and let tons of fuel pressure leak out. It was only friction fit over two metal fuel tubes. I assume the inside had a little speaker looking membrane. Totally pointless and made for hard starts. Apparently in the 80's when engineers started doing fuel injection they were unreasonably flipped out that the "high" pressure pulsations would kill regulators and injectors. So lots of stuff designed in the 80's had these fuel pump killing turds. Nothing would surprise me. Didn't see anything of anything except the squishy bits on the end that got smaller when pushed. This car was made in '96 though and not even the Ford service people had seen one of those things on there before. I had to destroy the black bits and do a bit more bending than I would like to liberate that turd from the assembly but it was worth it. The engine steel feels kind of funny and inconsistent but with a better baseline I'm hoping the dumbass ecu may actually spit out something of use after a while.
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Jan 21, 2013 05:58
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Had it towed to my house and started digging into the bottom end. Lower pan came off easily enough, albeit filled with nice silvery oil and chunks of bearing, and now it seems that to actually get eyes on the crank, I have to pull the support plate off, which is easy except for the two bolts hidden inside the loving bellhousing.  E: Aaaaaand two hours later I'm being held up by the VERY LAST bellhousing bolt, which I can get a ratchet on, but I can't brace myself well enough to break it loose with my 3/8 ratchet, and between the CV shaft and the lower cross brace (which is also on too tight to remove with hand tools) there'es no space for me to point the ratchet handle rearward and hang off it. Got it soaking in PB blaster now to hopefully coax it loose, but god dammit, I had the rest of the bolts off an hour ago, it's just this ONE loving BOLT!!! Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Jan 21, 2013 |
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Jan 21, 2013 17:51
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Drove it and observed. The crap running definitely disappears as soon as the needle hits the bottom of the normal temp range. I went and talked to a Ford tech about it. It apparently has a cold running mode so something could be happening there. I also learned that not even they have a code reader for the non OBD EEC-V Fords. drat.
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Jan 22, 2013 04:09
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Bought a new one! It's clear the Protege's gonna be out of commission for a while at best, so I went on Craigslist and picked up a 92 Chevy Blazer with 292k on the clock and an automatic transmission. It's a bit tired, and it sure does drive like an old American SUV, but at $800 it's cheap transportation and something simple for me to wrench on and tool around in, plus it'll be nice to have the utility of a second vehicle if and when the Mazda is resurrected.
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Jan 22, 2013 23:25
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Not strictly car related, but I am currently working on building a carbon fiber windscreen for my motorcycle, some of you may find it interesting. So, it winter, and I am bored. The bike is sitting in storage on its battery tender, so this is the perfect time to tinker, right? Anyway, the stock windshield/fairing on a KTM 950/990 sucks. The constant buffeting drove me completely up the wall commuting last summer, and I think I can do a better job. The premise is this. I want to build a shorter screen, with a nice little lip. It will be made of carbon fiber, and preferably a little bit lighter than stock. This is sort of an experiment for building more complex parts for different bikes later on, so I choose the 950 windscreen because 1. Its an extremely simple part to make a mold of and experiment with 2. I have one, and am intimately familiar with the issues So, where do we start? First thing to do is get the drat windshield off. Its 15 degrees out, and two of the screws are frozen into two of the stupid rubber grommet mounts. So I have to pry those out and use pliers on them, f*ing brilliant! Anyways, next up is clean the part up, and mount it to our laminate board! The very first step of this process is simply to make a casting of the outside using fiberglass. So, we tape it down to the board so it cant move around.  Now, I would prefer not to ruin my perfect good windshield during this process, so it is going to need a couple coats of mold release, PVA. This is sprayed on with a paint gun, and left to dry.  My buddy, who has a decade of experience building carbon fiber performance parts for airplanes, giving me a hand.  Next up, fill the holes with clay, cut out some squares of fiberglass that are big enough, and start loading them up with resin!  We can really load it up, remember that right now, we are just copying the part so that we can make an actual mold to lay CF in. So we don't care if there is too much resin, or even much about how it looks. Here you can see the screen before we roll the air out.  And here it is mid rolling. You gently roll the air bubbles and creases out of the fiberglass, and set it to dry. It needs about 24 hours at this point, So tomorrow I will look at it and see if there is a need for a second layer, depending on how rigid it is. If it does, it will be another 24 hours. This is a very boring part of the build, basically just waiting for things to dry. Half and hour of work, 24 hours to dry, lol 
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Jan 23, 2013 00:35
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Hit 1,000 miles since buying it. I've had it for 11 days... Also found out that when the low fuel warning has been on for about 15 miles, it takes a whopping 11.4 gallons to fill it up. 13 gallon tank though..
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Jan 23, 2013 03:20
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Pickep up my newly paint-matched hardtop  
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Jan 23, 2013 19:04
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Nothing yet but I intend on putting the current registration sticker on the caravan (trailer, not Dodge). Apparently the last time I actually remembered to do this was 2009. I feel disturbed that it feels like I only just did it a little while ago and sad that it probably hasn't left the yard since before then.
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Jan 23, 2013 22:42
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Had the bolts holding my harmonic balancer pulley and v belt pulley shear off, ended up using a drill bit and a easy out to pull out what was left, and back on it goes.
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Jan 23, 2013 22:43
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CommieGIR posted:Had the bolts holding my harmonic balancer pulley and v belt pulley shear off, ended up using a drill bit and a easy out to pull out what was left, and back on it goes. The holes in the pulley didn't get worn into an oval? I'm guessing that it was a sudden shear, then?
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Jan 24, 2013 00:43
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