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Shifty Pony posted:I'm just saying it is really hard to justify a wagon when I can pick up a late 80's or early 90's F-150 with the 300 Inline-6 and manual transmission for about two grand, in a state where there is no such thing as road salt. Sure they drink gas but for occasional hauling trips it isn't a bad deal. Or find a late 90s ranger with a dead or dying cologne v6 and do a Cummins 4bt diesel swap... I'd love to have a sportier car and a lovely truck for hauling, but I just don't have the space for it. There are very few things I miss about living in Texas, but having a large plot of land to store extra vehicles is one of them. I just went back home to visit the parents over the week of new years and every time I go back there is a different set of vehicles there. This time there was a new bay window bus hanging out. They're still storing the 64 1 owner all original bug I found for 500 bucks about 10 years ago in the airplane hangar 
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Jan 15, 2013 16:08
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Ayem posted:Living in Edmonton, I was a little worried about the cold winters and fuel freezing, but as long as I plug in, I never have any problems, engine fires up in a heartbeat. I'm not sure about the 2011s, but I bought the biggest battery I could fit into my 2004 and it starts on all the coldest days without plugging in as soon as the coil light goes off now.
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Jan 16, 2013 00:48
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My 12 liter diesel starts down to -27*C without being plugged in, i wouldn't be worried about a 2 liter. gas stations here switch to winter blend diesel in november, fuel gelling or freezing should never be a problem unless you go 3 months on a tank.
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Jan 16, 2013 01:24
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veedubfreak posted:Well at least the 2010 was still the "good" jetta. Now if you were driving say a "new" jetta that might be a good idea. But living in Texas, it's probably easier to just ask someone to help you move big poo poo The current-gen Jetta Sportwagen is a misnomer - it's not a Jetta, it's an extended Golf, which didn't take the steps back that the new Jetta took (because they didn't change it at all).
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Jan 16, 2013 02:32
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Friar Zucchini posted:The current-gen Jetta Sportwagen is a misnomer - it's not a Jetta, it's an extended Golf, which didn't take the steps back that the new Jetta took (because they didn't change it at all). That's correct, unless someone is looking for a new Jetta, especially the sedan version. As an aside: am I doing something bad by shifting at 2k, a bit after the turbo engages? As I understand it, the 2L tdi spools it up at about 1750rpm. I tend to shift up at about 2k (generally less). I know that with the tfsi engines you want to run them up a bit to shoot carbon out of them. Am I doing something bad by generally not doing so? Apart from a few 400+mi. runs, I'm puttering about town in 35, 40, 45, and 50 mph zones. Should I let the engine go up to 2.5k or 3k? I have a 2.0L Tdi, in a 2010 jetta.
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Jan 16, 2013 06:14
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Shifting at 2k is fine in normal driving, that's actually the recommended shifting point that I was taught for maximum fuel economy (2.5k for gasoline engines). However, you do want to get it higher in the rev range once in a while. If you don't you'll never massage the EGR flap, which engages somewhere between 2.5k and 3k, depending on which car and engine you have. If you don't, it'll soot up and get stuck and you'll need to replace it. It's one of the most common repairs on diesel cars. It's also best for the particulate filter to run the engine through the rev range once in a while.
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Jan 16, 2013 08:33
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KozmoNaut posted:Shifting at 2k is fine in normal driving, that's actually the recommended shifting point that I was taught for maximum fuel economy (2.5k for gasoline engines). The ideal shift-point for engines does vary with the cam profile, but most modern engines with efficiency and low-speed, good idle cams will be right there unless you're trying to accelerate up a hill or towing.
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Jan 16, 2013 08:38
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Zenostein posted:That's correct, unless someone is looking for a new Jetta, especially the sedan version. This is pretty much how I drive mine. But it does get an italian tuneup every few days just because. Also, for anyone that lives in the colder climates, look into getting some 3/4" pipe insulation and filling in the lower grill. This has helped my warm up times immensely with the lovely weather we've been having out here. I usually leave the house with the temps around 0 and my garage around 30.
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Jan 16, 2013 15:54
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veedubfreak posted:This is pretty much how I drive mine. But it does get an italian tuneup every few days just because. To complete the thought... Just because the absurd flat torque curve starting at 2k rpm makes launching yourself up the freeway onramp in third gear so much fun to do from time to time.
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Jan 16, 2013 16:19
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Shifty Pony posted:I'm just saying it is really hard to justify a wagon when I can pick up a late 80's or early 90's F-150 with the 300 Inline-6 and manual transmission for about two grand, in a state where there is no such thing as road salt. Sure they drink gas but for occasional hauling trips it isn't a bad deal. Or find a late 90s ranger with a dead or dying cologne v6 and do a Cummins 4bt diesel swap...
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Jan 17, 2013 01:29
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Shifty Pony posted:To complete the thought... Just because the absurd flat torque curve starting at 2k rpm makes launching yourself up the freeway onramp in third gear so much fun to do from time to time. Speaking of torks. People were driving like complete fucktards this morning, so I went into rear end in a top hat mode and decided to give the car a tune up. I love downshifting to third and running it up to that ever so crazy redline of 4800 to pass a line of idiots doing 50 in both the middle and left lane. This car is so much more fun to drive than my GLI ever was.
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Jan 17, 2013 15:29
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I finally got around to hooking up and configuring the scangauge that I have to read the engine sensors from the 2010 TDI (the codes are different from the 2006-2009 and the 2011+ for God knows why). Still no intake manifold pressure but at least it can show coolant temperature and exhaust gas temperature. I have a few questions about EGT readings. The sensor that I am reading is the turbo inlet temperature. That is the most useful one, correct? You can see it rise rapidly under load, drop like a rock when decelerating, and shoot up and stay high during a regeneration cycle. In the interest of keeping the turbocharger happy, what is a good temperature to aim for before cutting the engine? With the way that I drive it only takes five seconds or so of idle to drop to 360F when I park. Is that good enough? I suppose if I were whipping the engine for a bit that it would take longer to settle back down as all the internals would have to also shed the heat build up. sharkytm, a random stranger will quickly be your friend if you buy them a few beef ribs from the right spot.
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Jan 18, 2013 05:54
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Modern TDIs seem to be too drat efficient for their own good - I have the 105bhp 1.6 TDI in my Seat Ibiza and in barely-cold temperatures (1-2 degrees Celsius) using the heater saps enough engine heat for it to go back to fast idle again. Below -1 the car is constantly stuck in fast idle unless you do 60mph+ for a good hour. Is this an actual problem or can I "solve" it by covering up some of the grille to block the cold air from coming in. You'd think the thermostat would be more aggressive in closing up.
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Jan 21, 2013 18:06
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Cancelbot posted:Modern TDIs seem to be too drat efficient for their own good - I have the 105bhp 1.6 TDI in my Seat Ibiza and in barely-cold temperatures (1-2 degrees Celsius) using the heater saps enough engine heat for it to go back to fast idle again. Below -1 the car is constantly stuck in fast idle unless you do 60mph+ for a good hour. I had a similar problem with the Panda, although not to nearly the same degree. You should be fine covering 1/2-3/4 of the grill, it's probably mostly the airflow cooling the engine.
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Jan 21, 2013 18:10
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You could get a pre-heater.
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Jan 21, 2013 18:33
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InitialDave posted:You could get a pre-heater. Sorry I didn't explain thoroughly enough - the issue isn't in the starting/morning. It's even after I've been driving for a few hours, if I start idling in traffic or it's stop-start with the heater on low the engine eventually cools to the point where it has to increase its RPM to compensate. We have a petrol Yaris as well and that's painfully hot after 2 miles and stays hot. I will be trying the cover though! It doesn't help that the cabin isn't as well-sealed (read: much noisier) as the equivalent VW Polo or Audi A1 TDI and so a lot of heat is lost through the awful single token seal around the doors.
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Jan 21, 2013 22:23
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Cancelbot posted:Sorry I didn't explain thoroughly enough - the issue isn't in the starting/morning. It's even after I've been driving for a few hours, if I start idling in traffic or it's stop-start with the heater on low the engine eventually cools to the point where it has to increase its RPM to compensate. We have a petrol Yaris as well and that's painfully hot after 2 miles and stays hot. I will be trying the cover though! Perhaps a different thermostat? But yes, go with what others have said and block the radiator 1/2 to 3/4 of the way in the winter, should held a lot.
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Jan 22, 2013 03:28
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I drive a Ford Powerstroke turbodiesel for work and I love the drat thing. So I'm now actually considering a used VW TDI for a DD, like a few people in this thread, in the cheaper end of the range. Unfortunately I am on a tight budget and they hold value pretty well. I just re-read the thread and there were a few other questions from folks looking for the same thing. Looking locally I see a 2006 Jetta with 170K miles, maint records, and new brake pads, front rotors, clutch, tires, and battery within the last year asking $6900 negotiable. Also a 2001 4 door Golf with 125K miles asking $5500. Both are manual transmission. I have no preference on body type. I think the mileage is totally acceptable on either one if they check out without any other issues. Neither price strikes me as outrageous, but also not particularly good. Anything TDI-specific that I need to be on the lookout for when looking for a cheaper used one? Any model years to avoid? So far from the thread I have: -timing belt changes -what engine oil was used (check for blowby) And normal obvious used-car stuff. Ceteris paribus, is the difference between the engine generations significant enough to effect my decision? Other than the small boost in hp and torque - I'm primarily concerned with reliability.
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Jan 22, 2013 03:46
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Cancelbot posted:Sorry I didn't explain thoroughly enough - the issue isn't in the starting/morning. It's even after I've been driving for a few hours, if I start idling in traffic or it's stop-start with the heater on low the engine eventually cools to the point where it has to increase its RPM to compensate. We have a petrol Yaris as well and that's painfully hot after 2 miles and stays hot. I will be trying the cover though! This sounds like it might be a thermostat that's stuck open? I don't have much experience with Diesels, and it hasn't been that cold here either, but I've had the thermostat on a couple of different cars stick open and they had similar issues to what you're describing except that they'd never get up to operating temperature. My Golf is usually up to temperature after a few miles on the highway.
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Jan 22, 2013 06:09
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Tyro posted:Looking locally I see a 2006 Jetta with 170K miles, maint records, and new brake pads, front rotors, clutch, tires, and battery within the last year asking $6900 negotiable. Also a 2001 4 door Golf with 125K miles asking $5500. Both are manual transmission. I have no preference on body type. I think the mileage is totally acceptable on either one if they check out without any other issues. Neither price strikes me as outrageous, but also not particularly good. Anything TDI-specific that I need to be on the lookout for when looking for a cheaper used one? Any model years to avoid? I don't think there's any years to avoid. The VE Engines (96-2003) are very reliable, and the PD engines (2004-2006) are similar except for some issues with camshafts wearing out / breaking. This means that the kind of oil used is more important for the newer engines, as using the wrong oil can accelerate cam wear. http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/camshaft-inspection-replace-vw-tdi.htm The 2006 Jetta sounds like a better deal with the limited information provided.
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Jan 22, 2013 06:18
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Cancelbot posted:Modern TDIs seem to be too drat efficient for their own good - I have the 105bhp 1.6 TDI in my Seat Ibiza and in barely-cold temperatures (1-2 degrees Celsius) using the heater saps enough engine heat for it to go back to fast idle again. Below -1 the car is constantly stuck in fast idle unless you do 60mph+ for a good hour. That doesn't sound quite right. I've been running my big truck in -25C (-10F and lower) and no cover without a problem. Check and make sure your coolant isn't out of spec, and then try the cover trick.
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Jan 22, 2013 10:13
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I covered the lower grill on my '11 just to get up to temp faster. Subsequently it has improved my mileage quite a bit on my commute.
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Jan 22, 2013 16:16
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If any of you have yet to drive the misery machine known as the Seat Ibiza Ecomotive (slash Polo Bluemotion slash Fabia Greenline), I have only one piece of advice. Don't. It's got a 3-cylinder 1.2L TDI and extra-high gearing for fuel economony. It is absolutely astonishingly gutless, on level with the Polo 1.9L naturally-aspirated diesel I did brake tests in back when I originally took my license. It's that slow. To make things even worse, it vibrates like a motherfucker, as well. On paper it has 75hp/180nm, but I can tell you that my old 70hp/145nm Panda was so much faster it isn't even funny. On the upside, my 160hp Peugeot felt like a silky-smooth rocket ship in comparison.
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Jan 22, 2013 17:04
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Cancelbot posted:Sorry I didn't explain thoroughly enough - the issue isn't in the starting/morning. It's even after I've been driving for a few hours, if I start idling in traffic or it's stop-start with the heater on low the engine eventually cools to the point where it has to increase its RPM to compensate. We have a petrol Yaris as well and that's painfully hot after 2 miles and stays hot. I will be trying the cover though! I had the same problem being stuck slow traffic. I'd rev it up to ~2k when stopped just to get some heat out.
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Jan 22, 2013 17:57
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veedubfreak posted:I covered the lower grill on my '11 just to get up to temp faster. Subsequently it has improved my mileage quite a bit on my commute. I'm definitely considering doing this. What did you cover it with?
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Jan 22, 2013 18:38
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KozmoNaut posted:If any of you have yet to drive the misery machine known as the Seat Ibiza Ecomotive (slash Polo Bluemotion slash Fabia Greenline), I have only one piece of advice. Don't. That's a shame, I've always fancied one as a commuter. My 320d has no brakes so I've been driving around in my parents '99 Citroen Xsara 1.9d non turbo for the past two weekends. I've actually grown quite fond of it despite 14.2 seconds to 60 and 70hp, it sits quite happily on the motorway as long as you aren't wanting to do 90+, and on A and B roads its fine as long as you don't want to overtake like a madman. Quite relaxing pottering along on a wave of torque trying to keep momentum, as thrashing it is quite futile. And in the snow it feels perfect as has so little power and skinny tyres. What has been more concerning however is that I've also grown fond if the Desert Rose Band tape that is jammed in the tape deck.
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Jan 22, 2013 19:23
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Cancelbot posted:Sorry I didn't explain thoroughly enough - the issue isn't in the starting/morning. It's even after I've been driving for a few hours, if I start idling in traffic or it's stop-start with the heater on low the engine eventually cools to the point where it has to increase its RPM to compensate. We have a petrol Yaris as well and that's painfully hot after 2 miles and stays hot. I will be trying the cover though! Also, just thought of this, find out if it has coolant glow plugs, maybe they are burned out? And like Interceptor said, check your coolant levels.
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Jan 22, 2013 20:38
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Ayem posted:I'm definitely considering doing this. What did you cover it with? 3/4" pipe insulation.
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Jan 22, 2013 21:06
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CommieGIR posted:Also, just thought of this, find out if it has coolant glow plugs, maybe they are burned out? Not just level, but make sure it hasn't gone bad.
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Jan 22, 2013 21:24
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Opensourcepirate posted:I don't think there's any years to avoid. The VE Engines (96-2003) are very reliable, and the PD engines (2004-2006) are similar except for some issues with camshafts wearing out / breaking. This means that the kind of oil used is more important for the newer engines, as using the wrong oil can accelerate cam wear. Thanks for the info. The seller of the '06 got back to me with some more details. Sounds like he was the 2nd owner but had it for 5 years and really kept on top of the maintanence. Timing belt was done at 104k.
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Jan 22, 2013 21:24
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Thanks for the responses! It never occurred to me to check for problems as It's brand new since July, covering it up helped considerably but was a pain as it has plastic covering _everything_ so i couldn't reach my arm under the front to tie it against anything. In the end I resorted to cable ties to put some closed cell foam over half of the grill. It's going back to the lease company in a few weeks so I will mention the issues to them during the handover as they'll deal with SEAT directly. But I can enjoy a warm car for now! quote:It's got a 3-cylinder 1.2L TDI and extra-high gearing for fuel economony. It is absolutely astonishingly gutless, on level with the Polo 1.9L naturally-aspirated diesel I did brake tests in back when I originally took my license. It's that slow. To make things even worse, it vibrates like a motherfucker, as well. On paper it has 75hp/180nm, but I can tell you that my old 70hp/145nm Panda was so much faster it isn't even funny. I enjoyed the stock 1.2 TDI Polo during my test drives before the Ibiza, it had a charming character to the whole thing and once you were in the turbo range it wasn't too bad at speed. I can't speak for the Bluemotion however. But where I live the slip-roads are ridiculously short (~700 feet or less) so the 1.6 won out on the "Joining a motorway safely" test. Cancelbot fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Jan 22, 2013 |
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Jan 22, 2013 21:34
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KozmoNaut posted:If any of you have yet to drive the misery machine known as the Seat Ibiza Ecomotive (slash Polo Bluemotion slash Fabia Greenline), I have only one piece of advice. Don't. Doing some quick google searches, there's definitely some tuning options available. I saw web pages for a few boxes that claim 95 HP and a youtube video for a chip claiming 105. Aside from potential warranty problems, I would highly recommend tuning it.
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Jan 22, 2013 23:15
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Opensourcepirate posted:Doing some quick google searches, there's definitely some tuning options available. I saw web pages for a few boxes that claim 95 HP and a youtube video for a chip claiming 105. Aside from potential warranty problems, I would highly recommend tuning it. I wouldn't be surprised if there is a turbo kit for it as well. I can't find one, but I'm sure there is someone swapping turbos on it.
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Jan 23, 2013 04:08
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Anyone having trouble with their heaters or engine staying warm definitely has some thermostat issues. Despite the special flower crap, diesels are still internal combustion engines, still operate in the 90C range for coolant temperature, and still put ~30% of their fuel's energy into coolant heat, so if they aren't staying warm, there's a problem.
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Jan 23, 2013 05:01
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In my 98 Jetta TDI, the temperature will definitely drop at idle on really cold days. Covering the front (which I haven't done yet this year because I'm lazy) definitely helps, although probably doesn't make much difference when totally stopped. All the stuff I've read on TDIClub and elsewhere has said that it's pointless to start the car early to let it warm up, because they just don't put out enough heat at idle to do anything meaningful. In terms of tuning talk - if the car is under warranty, I would think that a tuning box would be the way to go. They work by modifying the signal between the sensors and the ECU. They're not as effective as an ECU reprogramming/chip, because they can't advance the injection timing or do some other fancy things, but they shouldn't leave any incriminating evidence if they're taken out before servicing.
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Jan 23, 2013 05:52
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Perhaps the same effect that effectively limits diesel engines to 5200 RPM (only the cone starting at the injector sees burning) limits the heat absorption by the cylinders?
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Jan 23, 2013 06:48
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DJ Commie posted:Anyone having trouble with their heaters or engine staying warm definitely has some thermostat issues. Despite the special flower crap, diesels are still internal combustion engines, still operate in the 90C range for coolant temperature, and still put ~30% of their fuel's energy into coolant heat, so if they aren't staying warm, there's a problem. Heat is even more important to a diesel because it helps improve fuel efficiency, a diesel tries to maintain an average operating temperature so that the cylinders are warm enough to induce heat into the air at the combustion cycle, allowing it to more thoroughly burn the fuel. Opensourcepirate posted:In my 98 Jetta TDI, the temperature will definitely drop at idle on really cold days. Covering the front (which I haven't done yet this year because I'm lazy) definitely helps, although probably doesn't make much difference when totally stopped. In theory, this shouldn't be true, as there are coolant glow plugs on a junction at the head that are supposed to help the car maintain temperature. I'm not really sure when they cycle though or for how long.
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Jan 23, 2013 13:49
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I covered my grill mostly for the extra fuel economy. My garage isn't heated, but it is insulated so even on the coldest shittiest mornings, the car is still usually above freezing. Add the seat warmers and a good jacket and I can handle the 10 minutes it takes to get to temp for the heater to start working.
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Jan 23, 2013 15:44
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Well the 06 got bought out from under me. Going to look at this one tomorrow, does anything about this ad copy scream BS to anyone who knows more about the VW TDIs? The thing I am most concerned about is the software tune since this will be a commuter car. Never heard of Kelly tires but it looks like they're a Goodyear subsidiary. edit to add: My county requires emissions tests, and you CANNOT have any CEL on and pass. Anyone know if the EGR delete will effect that? Craigslist posted:"What I am offering for sale is my 2001 VW Golf TDI 5 speed. Recent major surgery has hindered my ability to drive a manual transmission for the forseeable future. I'm a certified VW technician and the maintenance on this TDI is beyond perfect. Recent maintenance is to include but not limited to new VW Kevlar 100k timing belt, water pump tensioner and pulleys. All filters and fluids are new. While performing this service I removed the intake and cylinder head and hot tanked both to remove all carbon buildup from the use of the old style diesel fuel that was offered in USA when the car was built. All tires are excellent condition Kelly charger all season radials. Brakes are new in front and about 75% on rear. I installed European ALH diesel software that deletes the troublesome EGR system and increases HP to 110 vs 90. very nice difference. The car overall is in very nice condition cosmetically. In a TDI you need to know what's going on under the hood and the upkeep. Don't just look for the shiniest paint job from a local lot with an unknown history of the vehicle. My average fuel economy is 51 city/highway. It can achieve 56mpg on the open highway not using a/c. average tankful goes between 600-690 depending on driving habits and conditions. I will provide the new owner with 14q of VW TXT05 oil and 3 OE oil filters for 15k of maintenance. The TDI has 138k total miles." He is asking $4900 and as fast as used TDIs sell around here I don't think I will get anywhere by trying to negotiate. It's on the high side for the age but if it's in as solid of shape as he describes I think it might be worth it. Tyro fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Jan 29, 2013 |
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Jan 29, 2013 03:29
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Tyro posted:Well the 06 got bought out from under me. If he did the correct flash then the EGR delete doesn't matter, the computer just ignores it. You'll know if you go see it and the check engine light comes on while you test drive. Chances are though, if he flashed it with a Euro chip, you won't get a check engine light. I'd say check it out, sounds like a good deal, its got the Kevlar heavy duty timing belt too, those are such a bitch to put on but you get 40k more miles between changes. And if he really does offer you the OEM VW Oil, then I'm more than willing to bet he is legit.
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Jan 29, 2013 03:46
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